[m.edward]

I know this probably is well known for most riders but as a new M109R rider I couldn't find any pics for the process, hope this helps.

Tools:
-Lift for the rear wheel (optional)
-Suzuki spanner wrench part #09822-00003 or tongue&groove pliers/pump pliers

#1 Jack up the rear wheel, could be done without but it's much easier when you take the weight off the rear shock. be mindful to place it where you can still have access to the adjusting nut from the bottom.

#2 From the side you would be able to see the adjusting nut with number setting (factory is 4, softest is 1, hardest is 7) and from the bottom you can reach the nut and using a spanner wrench/pliers adjust to the setting needed (I went with 1 as I find the default factory to be too harsh and my area is full of speed bumps 😣)

 

[HyperPete]

Thanks for posting this. I'm certain that new members, and perhaps even some old members, will appreciate this.

The correct adjustment tools are readily available, and inexpensive, BTW.

 

[Sledge]

Don't forget, the number facing down is NOT the setting because the marking is offset by 90 degrees. For example, if you want setting 4, you should see 7 facing down.

 

[m.edward]

Thanks for posting this. I'm certain that new members, and perhaps even some old members, will appreciate this.

The correct adjustment tools are readily available, and inexpensive, BTW.

Thanks Pete!

Ya I know there is a special adjustment tool from suzuki but unfortunately it’s not available anywhere here in UAE.

 

[meierjn]

I used a spanner wrench that came with one of my snowmobiles to adjust the shock. It seemed to work OK. I don't have one of them lifts, but wish I did. It would make even oil changes easier! Thanks for posting this.

 

[Roger18]

Thanks for the publication, for me it has been very useful, both for the regulation of the shock absorber and for the type of elevator that you use, I had planned to buy one and I like your model.
Greetings

 

[bigpapaXCT]

Don't forget, the number facing down is NOT the setting because the marking is offset by 90 degrees. For example, if you want setting 4, you should see 7 facing down.

Thanks for posting this. I was just getting ready to say the same thing and mention that there is a post somewhere that was put up showing all of the side numbers and what the corresponding bottom ones are. Also, it is easier if the 4 10mm bolts are removed and the skid plate is pull away.

 

[HyperPete]

I used a spanner wrench that came with one of my snowmobiles to adjust the shock. It seemed to work OK. I don't have one of them lifts, but wish I did. It would make even oil changes easier! Thanks for posting this.

Yep, C-spanners should be widely available.

 

[Metalman]

Thanks for the writeup and excellent photos. I have never given much thought to adjusting the suspension. I guess it's OK, but perhaps I should see if changing it one way or the other makes much difference.

 

[SidecarJon]

Thanks for the writeup and excellent photos. I have never given much thought to adjusting the suspension. I guess it's OK, but perhaps I should see if changing it one way or the other makes much difference.

Proper suspension setup is crucial to motorcycle handling. I would say 90% of riders are riding with improperly set up suspension. Now it doesn’t mean a suspension way out of whack is going to make you wreck but having suspension properly set up for rider weight will make a bike better and safer. Even though most motorcycle suspensions aren’t top shelf, if there is adjustability then I recommend adjusting.

 

[thevili]

Proper suspension setup is crucial to motorcycle handling. I would say 90% of riders are riding with improperly set up suspension. Now it doesn’t mean a suspension way out of whack is going to make you wreck but having suspension properly set up for rider weight will make a bike better and safer. Even though most motorcycle suspensions aren’t top shelf, if there is adjustability then I recommend adjusting.

I agree 100% ...

 

[Joe RC51]

The rear spring is linear/straight wound , preload only changes ride height , not stiffness.

 

[thevili]

The rear spring is linear/straight wound , preload only changes ride height , not stiffness.

[url=https://postimages.org/] [/URL]

 

[Joe RC51]

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Only a progressively wound spring will change tension under compression.

 

[Zoom]

Only a progressively wound spring will change tension under compression.

Joe, I agree with 99% of what you say, but I disagree with that statement. Or maybe it's true under some circumstances.
With a linear wound spring, where the coils are the same distance apart the entire length of the spring, the spring exerts more resistance in a linear fashion the more it is compressed. For instance if it's a 150 lb/in spring, it takes 150 pounds to compress it 1" or 300 pounds to compress it 2". As it is compressed more, the force it pushes back with increases. So if the spring is compressed to the point that it is exerting 500 pounds of force against the shock, then it will feel stiffer than it would if it were compressed to 400 pounds of resistance. I know the primary purpose of adjusting the spring is to set the preload on the shock based on the load it is going to carry, but if the load remains the same then adjusting the spring to compress it more will make the ride feel stiffer, and also make the bike ride higher.

That sounds right in my mind, but the bike riding higher with the stiffer setting kind of throws a kink into it too. That might change how stiff it feels once you get on the bike, I'm not sure.

Of course progressively wound springs work kind of the same way, but the amount of resistance over a given compression range changes as the spring is compressed. The more it is compressed, the higher the resistance per unit. It might be 100 pounds to compress the first inch, then 150 more pounds to compress the next inch, depending on how it is designed.

 

[80's Hair Metal]

I know this probably is well known for most riders but as a new M109R rider I couldn't find any pics for the process, hope this helps.

Tools:
-Lift for the rear wheel (optional)
-Suzuki spanner wrench part #09822-00003 or tongue&groove pliers/pump pliers

#1 Jack up the rear wheel, could be done without but it's much easier when you take the weight off the rear shock. be mindful to place it where you can still have access to the adjusting nut from the bottom.

#2 From the side you would be able to see the adjusting nut with number setting (factory is 4, softest is 1, hardest is 7) and from the bottom you can reach the nut and using a spanner wrench/pliers adjust to the setting needed (I went with 1 as I find the default factory to be too harsh and my area is full of speed bumps 😣)

Will adjusting this to the softest level (#1) lower the back end of the bike at all??

 

[SidecarJon]

Will adjusting this to the softest level (#1) lower the back end of the bike at all??

Yes it will. Very slightly. It’s not the way to lower a bike though. Get some lowering “bones” if you want to lower the rear end

 

[HyperPete]

Yes it will. Very slightly. It’s not the way to lower a bike though. Get some lowering “bones” if you want to lower the rear end

...or air ride