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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Just got the 300 installed :D. I have a question ?
Since I have the exhaust off, can I just remove the set actuator and cables--and push out the #7 pin and be ok? Or does the actuator have to stay plugged in?
Thanks
dw
 

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I know that some follow what you told, at my side i just install a new cam and put the part on the right side cover. :D
Nice bad ass !!! keep posting pics !!:bigthumbsup:
 

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Just got the 300 installed :D. I have a question ?
Since I have the exhaust off, can I just remove the set actuator and cables--and push out the #7 pin and be ok? Or does the actuator have to stay plugged in?
Thanks
dw
Great start! Now, Have fun with that fender. That would be the other half of the project.
 

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LOL,,,,,ain't that the truth.. At least he's smart and used the Avon 300 instead of the Metz.. Should be more wiggle room..

Looks great so far :bigthumbsup:
Although I really love the look of the METZ 300....I am sure glad I went with the Avon 300. Looks great bro!!!! Welcome to the Club!
 

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Just got the 300 installed :D. I have a question ?
Since I have the exhaust off, can I just remove the set actuator and cables--and push out the #7 pin and be ok? Or does the actuator have to stay plugged in?
Thanks
dw
I unplugged the #7 wire, took the cables off and left the actuator motor plugged in. I don't know if you can just unplug the actuator motor and completely remove it. I'm sure someone that knows will chime in. And welcome to the 300 club.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Great start! Now, Have fun with that fender. That would be the other half of the project.
I'm done with the fender. I copied what several others on here did. Hope the wheel offset matches the fender. I'll get it on tomorrow and cut off the bolts inside. :D :D :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I unplugged the #7 wire, took the cables off and left the actuator motor plugged in. I don't know if you can just unplug the actuator motor and completely remove it. I'm sure someone that knows will chime in. And welcome to the 300 club.
Thanks, I will do that, almost just as simple
dw
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What size lowering bones can I use with this if I ride 2 up? I don't plan on doing an air ride. I have 2 3/4 in a box but I bet that may be too low.
Thanks,
dw
 

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I unplugged the #7 wire, took the cables off and left the actuator motor plugged in. I don't know if you can just unplug the actuator motor and completely remove it. I'm sure someone that knows will chime in. And welcome to the 300 club.
Yes, you can just unplug the actuator motor and remove it completely. I have done this with my exhaust and have had no issues at all.
 

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Unplug the actuator and remove it, and do the wire on the ECU. No use in carrying that dead weight around. I just wrapped some electrical tape around the plugs on the bike.

The SET valve will stay open by itself, it's spring loaded to open. So once the cables are off or disconnected from the actuator you're done.
 

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Unplug the actuator and remove it, and do the wire on the ECU. No use in carrying that dead weight around. I just wrapped some electrical tape around the plugs on the bike.

The SET valve will stay open by itself, it's spring loaded to open. So once the cables are off or disconnected from the actuator you're done.
:agree: Everything works just fine,,,
 

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That looks awesome!!! I'm getting ready to join the club also but waiting for my swingarm from DLP. I really like the look and less modification associated with the Avon... gonna do the same!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That looks awesome!!! I'm getting ready to join the club also but waiting for my swingarm from DLP. I really like the look and less modification associated with the Avon... gonna do the same!
Thanks guys,
The swingarm from dlp will help a lot in making the job easier. If I had to do it over, after notching the stock swingarm, I would re-install the final drive and use an all thread as an axle and keep the two sides at the correct distance apart. Mine was a "little" tight when I started to put on the brake caliper mount. I had to pry it open a little wider. I guess the heat from welding warped it a "little". Overall it has been easy because of all of the good info from members on this site. On the other hand it has been a pain in the a$$ because it has been learn as you go.
dw
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
gonna need some more pics of the process and final product : )
tsummitt, I didn't do a step by step on this. I used pointers from other members. There are lots of pics in step by step or search for 300 conversion. You will have it easy with the steel swingarm--since you have an aftermarket exhaust, you probably won't have to pull it off to put the new tire and wheel on. I installed the swingarm with the final drive already on and the u joint on the drive shaft. It is a lot easier to get the gears to line up in the primary drive than it is to try and stab the driveshaft into a moving u joint. And you can pull back the rubber cover to help the gear alignment. I tried several times to stab the driveshaft into the u joint and never could get the splines to line up.
You will need to pull off the fender and cut, flatten and weld the 3 grooves on both sides and cut off part of the strap around the front attachment holes--that's pretty vauge--search for Rainey, he has pics of this. I smoothed up the nuts that are welded on the bottom of the fender and cut off the two long ones close to the front. When you are installing the wheel, leave the brake rotor off until you get it in the swingarm. I turned the back of the wheel to the right (looking from he back) and wiggled it in (its close so be patient) and put a towel over the r/h swingarm so it doesn't scratch your wheel.
If you still can't get the wheel in, remove the hubs, put in the wheel and reinstall the hubs.
dw
 

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I appreciate you taking the time to give me an overview, Webb09. I try to absorb as much info as possible so I can use a little of everyone's tricks, techniques, etc. One final comment that still has me a trying to figure it out - it seems odd that you would have to grind down those "seemingly benign" ridges in the fender. They don't protrude much at all but you mention to grind them off then weld them flush with the fender. Is that really necessary?? By the way, I ordered the 300 Avon and a Galfer chrome rotor last night... will be waiting for awhile for the swingarm to arrive from DLP. Thanks again, Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
tsummitt, I think the Avon 300 will go inside the fender without rubbing the grooves. Maybe flattening the grooves was for the Metz tire. I did it anyway. I bought a used fender and modified it before I got the wheel and tire. Just take off the fender and drop it down over the new tire (on the wheel and aired up) and see how tight it is. It also depends how the wheel is offset. My PM wheel is a little close on the left side. Mine isn't lowered yet but I am planning on doing that. Just check and recheck. It's easier to fix while it is on the jack.
dw
 
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