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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So with that being said, I like doing my own maintance. With the M109R everyone knows its shaft driven. Is there any kinda of maintence for shaft driven motorcyes? Also I have a possible exhaust leak but i cant seem to figure it out. Ever since i bought the bike 3 weeks ago ( 2014 , 24k miles fyi) it has a exsesive valve / ear perferating noise at idle. I replaced both exhaust header pipe gaskets thinking that was the problem and its either the same as it was before or slightly worse I cant tell. Any recomendations? Lastly I want to race/drag this bike for fun. With that being said Im going to do my brakes, pads , rotors , lines and fluid. So any tips on how to bleed the system and not make a mess considering the bleeder is at the top of the caliper?
 

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Welcome to the forum. :( 🙋‍♂️
The only maintenance on the shaft drive is to change the final drive fluid occasionally. I do mine every other oil change. A quart of the fluid for it will change it about 3 times. There are also splines on the end of the shaft where it engages the final drive that should be checked, how often is up to you. I had mine 5 years before I checked it and it still had plenty of grease in it. Some have found them almost dry from the factory, but I think that was mostly on older models.

I agree with BCS on the noise probably being the clutch basket springs rattling around, but if you want to see whether or not you may also have an exhaust leak, use the old trick of holding something tight over the end of the pipes and listening for a whistle starting up at one of the joints as the pressure builds up. I use a flat block of wood as the pipes get hot pretty quick. And on most systems you will need to plug both pipes at the same time unless you have a single muffler.
 

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My guess is your bike has the relocated rear caliper. The easy way I found is to remove the caliper and stick something between the pads to take up the space and then bleed as normal after that with the bleeders pointing down as much as possible. The front should be fine to bleed while on the bike.

Edit: What I say above is the exact opposite. The relocation bracket puts the caliper below the swing arm which puts the bleeders pointing down and not up. This is why the caliper would need to come off.

This is also why you don't post early in the morning after just waking up. You could end up sounding foolish.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Why can't I just bleed both bleeders at the same time/go back and forth from one to the other with the caliper still on the bike?
 

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Why can't I just bleed both bleeders at the same time/go back and forth from one to the other with the caliper still on the bike?
I suggest you do an internet search on bleeding brakes. You'll find basic instructions and explanations about bleeding brakes that you want & need.
 

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Why can't I just bleed both bleeders at the same time/go back and forth from one to the other with the caliper still on the bike?
My mistake. I posted my reply early this morning and was not thinking correctly. The relocation bracket actually puts the caliper below the swing arm which puts the bleeders pointing straight down. This is why the caliper needs to come off if you have that bracket. My bad.

You just need to get a vacuum bleeder or a hose that fits over the nipple and then you should be fine.

Sorry for the misinformation.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
My mistake. I posted my reply early this morning and was not thinking correctly. The relocation bracket actually puts the caliper below the swing arm which puts the bleeders pointing straight down. This is why the caliper needs to come off if you have that bracket. My bad.

You just need to get a vacuum bleeder or a hose that fits over the nipple and then you should be fine.

Sorry for the misinformation.
Your good. I do brakes at work as a auto mechanic. Thought there might be something different for bikes. Thanks anyways 😊
 

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If you take a piece of fuel line and put one end to your ear , you can pinpoint listen with the open end to try to locate your noise. You can do similar for internal noises with a screwdriver handle to your ear and touching the motor with the other end.
 

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Did you get the owner's manual with your bike? It contains the maintenance schedule. Here is one from a 2008. There have been no considerable changes to the bike or Owner's Manual since 2008.
Oh, See Section 7.

 
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Did you get the owner's manual with your bike? It contains the maintenance schedule. Here is one from a 2008. There have been no considerable changes to the bike or Owner's Manual since 2008.
Oh, See Section 7.

Pete, that modified version of The Serenity Prayer you have quoted at the bottom of your posts, is HILARIOUS Bro.😂😂😂😂😂🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣😂😂😂😂😂
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Well when it comes to the idle noise, it cant be the clutch. The more and more I rode it the more I could realize that i can still hear on the highway, side streets, idle with clutch in and out. Nothing changes. Regardless how fast and what you do i can still hear the noise (its quetier when your actually moving but you can still hear it) . Any thoughts then? Also Im about to do my oil change on it. Ive heard that it can leak oil out the airbox.
 

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Also Im about to do my oil change on it. Ive heard that it can leak oil out the airbox.
Follow the procedure outlined in the Owner's Manual and you will be fine. Air usually only comes out the airbox when you over fill it. Follow the manual to the letter, then do a search on here for "cold oil check" and you will find an easy procedure for checking it after the initial change.
 
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