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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, I just bought my beast used off of Ebay about 3 months ago and I was installing a down-under kit. Due to the cold weather and other circumstances I did not ride it much. So i am modding it out during our first winter together. Upon reinstalling the rear caliper thanks to some advice from Lamont himself (btw thanks again bro for letting me disturb you on a Sunday), I was unable to get the caliper to engage the rotor while "pumping" the brake. I would like to believe that they worked before it took it apart as I was able to get rsome esistance when I push down on the pedal but now after the install and bleeding them with the nipples in the upright position :joke:, they still do not respond to the foot pedal. When I press the pedal it goes all the way down and the brakes do not clamp at all. I intalled the new braided cable and filled the reservoir with DOT 4 but they simply will not engage the wheel simply spins and the lever hits metal please help with any advice guys. :-\

thanks James Jacksonville NC
 

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Hey guys, I just bought my beast used off of Ebay about 3 months ago and I was installing a down-under kit. Due to the cold weather and other circumstances I did not ride it much. So i am modding it out during our first winter together. Upon reinstalling the rear caliper thanks to some advice from Lamont himself (btw thanks again bro for letting me disturb you on a Sunday), I was unable to get the caliper to engage the rotor while "pumping" the brake. I would like to believe that they worked before it took it apart as I was able to get rsome esistance when I push down on the pedal but now after the install and bleeding them with the nipples in the upright position :joke:, they still do not respond to the foot pedal. When I press the pedal it goes all the way down and the brakes do not clamp at all. I intalled the new braided cable and filled the reservoir with DOT 4 but they simply will not engage the wheel simply spins and the lever hits metal please help with any advice guys. :-\

thanks James Jacksonville NC
Well, no matter what, you still have air in the system. I have used a piece of wood that is about the same thickness as the rotor to keep the pads seperated. This works two fold 1) to aid in bleeding the brakes and 2) gives you an accurate level at the resevior after they are bled. You bleed these just like a car/truck. Pump the lever a few times and hold it down, then release the bleeder---you should hear some air and some fluid should come out. You continue this process until fully bled---clear fluid coming out, no air, and no cloudy fluid either. Once all this is done you can reinstall the caliper. Now, you still have air in there, just make sure you have the caliper bleeders at the top. I know, you probably did all that, just keep at it---takes a bit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Man, first of all your bike is one of few that helped inspired me to build a 16x20 shed, take a motorcycle safety course and buy my first bike... a 9.

I hope you are right because I was pumping like a mad man with my wife reluctantly helping ;). But she is a trooper. Maybe the kit will make a significant difference.
 

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Well, for my own reasons, I needed to have my rear caliper off like every week this summer.

Bleeding with the down under bracket it about as bad as it comes.

I did come up with a system that let me trim the time it took Way down.


With the caliper off and whatever placed between the pads to fake the rotor in there, I attached a length of hose to one of the bleeder bolts and ran the other end into the resevior.

Pump, pump, pump - move the caliper and line around and repeat, repeat, repeat.

This loop lets you work the air into the hose and out of the brake line and caliper. Once you seem good, switch to the other bleeder bolt just to make sure there is none trapped in that side and repeat the above.

This worked out very well and had me bleeding all the air out time after time in about 15 minutes.

Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
So I am getting that the long length of time is normal. I believe that a car is quicker. Man my arm was wearing on me so my wife had to jump in and help. The pedal simply kept bottoming out with little progress. And after finding out the Eagles lost I lost all patience then:joke:!!!
 

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Check out this link. It's the best way to describe how to bleed the system properly.

Make sure to follow these steps:
1)pull the lever, and hold.
2)open the bleeder screw, allow any air and fluid to exit while the lever is held.
3) close the bleeder screw THEN release the lever.
4) repeat steps 1 to 3 until there's no more air and you have a solid lever.

Hope this helps :bigthumbsup:

 

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I have had this problem on my 4 wheelers before when I have replaced the lines or had them totally empty of fluid. What I found to help me is to start at the end of the hose close to the resevoir. Crack the bolt lose that holds the hose on the resevoir and then just barely snug it back. Now pump your brake pedal and bleed the brakes at that same bolt I was just talking about. When you get fluid to flow from that point you can move down the line to the next connection point. Do the same thing and bleed the hose at that point. When it starts flowinf fluid then you can finally start bleeding the caliper it self.

I have done this several times on my 4 wheeler brakes and clutch and it works great. I have only had to do this if I had the brake lines off of the caliper and lost large amounts of fluid though. If you did not remove your hose then this may not be what you need to do but it can't hurt to try.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks guys you all are truly a unique bunch. This is better than most families!!! I have a lot of info to work with I think I will be able to muster up the patience to go back in the shed and milk the BEAST. :p
 

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Remember you have to have the bleed nipples up to get it to bleed properly. The stock caliper has them like that and it bleeds OK. Once you flip it the nipples are down and the air can't come out. You have to remove it, flip it over, stick a wrench or something between the pads, then bleed it. Make sure you keep the reservoir topped off too. I've seen lots of folks start bleeding brakes and let the reservoir run out, which just fills the lines with fluid again.
 

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Quit Putzin around, go to Autozone or Kragens and get a Mity Vac. :super:

I will suck the fluid right out of that sucker. :redfaced: Just keep checking you fluid level.
 

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I didn't ready everything here, but are you bleeding it with the nipple up? If you bleed it down then you will have air pocket issues. I do exactly what FutureR does and that is get a piece of wood to go between the pads. Have the nipple facing up and it just takes time. Also, if you have a harbor freight near you, they have a mittyvac brake bleeder kit for $40 that you basically hook up and hand pump. I use that to start, and when I get to the very end I do it the traditional way, pump the brake lever until hard, open valve and let it expel air/fluid, close valve and repeat. I do the whole process in about 10-15 minutes.
 
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