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Can anyone tell me how to properly adjust the small nut in the center of your clutch basket on a 2007 M109R?? Thanks
Hate answering a question with another question, but.......
Did you have the pressure plate off?
Did you just change the clutch plates or something?

If you did then you want to make sure the pin adjustment was loose before you bolted the pressure plate back on, to insure it did was not bottoming out onto the thrust bearing.

So from that point with the pin adjustment slacked and pressure plate torqued on correctly, the adjustment is as follows.
1) Make sure you clutch cable is disconnected from the lever on the handlebars.
2) Insure the arm under the left lower engine cover is all the way up. (it has spring tension on it to hold it up, but it never hurts to check)
3) Check to see that the pin adjustment is loose, you should be able to push and pull on it a bit. It should be able to move in and out just slightly.
4)Put a wrench on the locking nut and a screw driver in the pin adjustment. Hold the adjustment steady with the screwdriver and loosen the nut.
5) Tighten the adjustment screw just the point where you feel the thrust bearing firmly contact the back side of the pressure plate.
6) Then loosen it back 1 full turn.
7) Hold the adjustment screw in place so it cannot move and tighten the nut back up.

That's all there is to it.
The nut is only there to lock the pin adjustment in place so it cannot move. The threaded rod the nut rides on is the actual adjustment.

BCS
LGB/FJB
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hate answering a question with another question, but.......
Did you have the pressure plate off?
Did you just change the clutch plates or something?

If you did then you want to make sure the pin adjustment was loose before you bolted the pressure plate back on, to insure it did was not bottoming out onto the thrust bearing.

So from that point with the pin adjustment slacked and pressure plate torqued on correctly, the adjustment is as follows.
1) Make sure you clutch cable is disconnected from the lever on the handlebars.
2) Insure the arm under the left lower engine cover is all the way up. (it has spring tension on it to hold it up, but it never hurts to check)
3) Check to see that the pin adjustment is loose, you should be able to push and pull on it a bit. It should be able to move in and out just slightly.
4)Put a wrench on the locking nut and a screw driver in the pin adjustment. Hold the adjustment steady with the screwdriver and loosen the nut.
5) Tighten the adjustment screw just the point where you feel the thrust bearing firmly contact the back side of the pressure plate.
6) Then loosen it back 1 full turn.
7) Hold the adjustment screw in place so it cannot move and tighten the nut back up.

That's all there is to it.
The nut is only there to lock the pin adjustment in place so it cannot move. The threaded rod the nut rides on is the actual adjustment.

BCS
LGB/FJB
Thank you I bought the bike used and the clutch was slipping so I ordered new clutch plates at the dealer installed them and put it back together and still slipped? So I took it apart again and this time took of the clutch basket to see if the nut was loose on the back, it wasn't so here I am again.lol I'll try that thank you for your help really appreciated it 🙂
 

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Thank you I bought the bike used and the clutch was slipping so I ordered new clutch plates at the dealer installed them and put it back together and still slipped? So I took it apart again and this time took of the clutch basket to see if the nut was loose on the back, it wasn't so here I am again.lol I'll try that thank you for your help really appreciated it 🙂
Once you have the push pin adjusted, put the clutch cable back on the lever on the bars and confirm that the pin is pushing the pressure plate away from the stack and disengaging the clutch. You can put it in gear, pull the clutch lever and see if you can push the bike forward. If you can the clutch is disengaging.
Then put the clutch cover back on. (and put oil back in the engine if you happen to drain it)

Then adjust the cable. Keep the adjustment on the bars all the way in. (zero adjustment on the bars)
Loosen the lower adjustment at the arm (under the lower left engine cover) to the point where the bike tries to creep forward just a bit while you are siting on it, in gear with the lever pulled.
Then tighten the lower adjustment again a very small amount and check again to see if the bike will try to creep forward with the bike running, in gear with the lever pulled.
If it does not then your cable is now adjusted.
If it does still creep, then tighten the lower adjustment just a bit more. (Very small adjustments)
Repeat until you get just past the point where the bike no longer creeps.
Take the bike for a ride on a street that is not busy. Again see if the bike tries to creep when you come to a stop.
If it does you can now make very small adjustments at the lever on the bars,

I have found this is the best way to get the proper cable adjustment.
If the cable is too tight on these bikes it cause the clutch to slip under acceleration.
There must be slack between the lever and the perch it pivots on. When adjusted correctly it may look like there is too much slack, but if the clutch is disengaging when you pull the lever and the bike is not creeping when running and in gear, then the clutch is working fine and is adjusted properly.

Did you change the wave washer & seat when you changed the plates? (Its actually a conical shaped washer on these bikes)
If you end up having to pull the clutch apart again, be sure to check the steels to make sure they are not warped and they are still within spec.

BCS
LGB/FJB
 

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Thank you I bought the bike used and the clutch was slipping so I ordered new clutch plates at the dealer installed them and put it back together and still slipped? So I took it apart again and this time took of the clutch basket to see if the nut was loose on the back, it wasn't so here I am again.lol I'll try that thank you for your help really appreciated it 🙂
Hi Don. The only way to eliminate the slipping clutch is to add an extra plate. It should be the very first plate with internal teeth. There is room for it and your problem will be solved.
Mick.
 

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Hi Don. The only way to eliminate the slipping clutch is to add an extra plate. It should be the very first plate with internal teeth. There is room for it and your problem will be solved.
Mick.
Mick, have you done this yourself, or had it done elsewhere?
Why I am askin is that years 2010 and up do have 6 plate clutch
versus the years prior to that, which had only 5 plates. And yes,
the six plate stack fits the 5 plate basket since the plates are
different thickness..... Just asking, because what you are saying
is news to me. I have installed new six pack clutch to my
2009 VZR1800 here in Slovakia...
And welcome to the forum, cheers!... 🍻
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Mick, have you done this yourself, or had it done elsewhere?
Why I am askin is that years 2010 and up do have 6 plate clutch
versus the years prior to that, which had only 5 plates. And yes,
the six plate stack fits the 5 plate basket since the plates are
different thickness..... Just asking, because what you are saying
is news to me. I have installed new six pack clutch to my
2009 VZR1800 here in Slovakia...
And welcome to the forum, cheers!... 🍻
Thanks for your help
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Once you have the push pin adjusted, put the clutch cable back on the lever on the bars and confirm that the pin is pushing the pressure plate away from the stack and disengaging the clutch. You can put it in gear, pull the clutch lever and see if you can push the bike forward. If you can the clutch is disengaging.
Then put the clutch cover back on. (and put oil back in the engine if you happen to drain it)

Then adjust the cable. Keep the adjustment on the bars all the way in. (zero adjustment on the bars)
Loosen the lower adjustment at the arm (under the lower left engine cover) to the point where the bike tries to creep forward just a bit while you are siting on it, in gear with the lever pulled.
Then tighten the lower adjustment again a very small amount and check again to see if the bike will try to creep forward with the bike running, in gear with the lever pulled.
If it does not then your cable is now adjusted.
If it does still creep, then tighten the lower adjustment just a bit more. (Very small adjustments)
Repeat until you get just past the point where the bike no longer creeps.
Take the bike for a ride on a street that is not busy. Again see if the bike tries to creep when you come to a stop.
If it does you can now make very small adjustments at the lever on the bars,

I have found this is the best way to get the proper cable adjustment.
If the cable is too tight on these bikes it cause the clutch to slip under acceleration.
There must be slack between the lever and the perch it pivots on. When adjusted correctly it may look like there is too much slack, but if the clutch is disengaging when you pull the lever and the bike is not creeping when running and in gear, then the clutch is working fine and is adjusted properly.

Did you change the wave washer & seat when you changed the plates? (Its actually a conical shaped washer on these bikes)
If you end up having to pull the clutch apart again, be sure to check the steels to make sure they are not warped and they are still within spec.

BCS
LGB/FJB
Thanks for your help
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Hate answering a question with another question, but.......
Did you have the pressure plate off?
Did you just change the clutch plates or something?

If you did then you want to make sure the pin adjustment was loose before you bolted the pressure plate back on, to insure it did was not bottoming out onto the thrust bearing.

So from that point with the pin adjustment slacked and pressure plate torqued on correctly, the adjustment is as follows.
1) Make sure you clutch cable is disconnected from the lever on the handlebars.
2) Insure the arm under the left lower engine cover is all the way up. (it has spring tension on it to hold it up, but it never hurts to check)
3) Check to see that the pin adjustment is loose, you should be able to push and pull on it a bit. It should be able to move in and out just slightly.
4)Put a wrench on the locking nut and a screw driver in the pin adjustment. Hold the adjustment steady with the screwdriver and loosen the nut.
5) Tighten the adjustment screw just the point where you feel the thrust bearing firmly contact the back side of the pressure plate.
6) Then loosen it back 1 full turn.
7) Hold the adjustment screw in place so it cannot move and tighten the nut back up.

That's all there is to it.
The nut is only there to lock the pin adjustment in place so it cannot move. The threaded rod the nut rides on is the actual adjustment.

BCS
LGB/FJB
Thanks for your help
 
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