OK here we go. If you feel up to it build it.If you mess your bike up I take no responsibilty what so ever.
Automatic Timing Retard Eliminator (ATRE) This will let your computer think it is in 4th gear all the time and will not effect idle.Your timing will be advanced and you will notice better throttle response in gears 1-3 4th no change and the 5th gear rev limiter will be the same as 4th.
Here is the layout for what I have built. I had to use several different resistors to make up a 2.7K OHM
If you are lucky enough to have access to a single 2.7K ohm resistor and a 47K ohm then please make the optional less complicated unit on this page.
Updated info as requested for novices 7/1/2008
Black is your Emitter
Blue is the Base it gets the 47K resistor
Red is the Collector it gets the 2.7K resistor
My parts lay out from Radio Shack. red blue and black wire . A pack of 47K,2.2k and 100 Ohm resistors. 1 MPS2222a transistor and a project board. Total was around $6 bucks
Go ahead and shape your leads to prepare for installation on the board.
Should look something like this on top
On bottom SORRY BLURRY
Should look a little like this after being soldered and bridgeing the resistors in a series. My 2.2K was showing 2.1K so I ended up having to use 6 100 ohm to make up the difference. It was spot on at 2.7 though. Always meter everything out and make sure you did not short your circuit anywhere. My 47K was off as well showing 45.6K but it worked out anyway.
Top view all ready to be insulated. You can install in a small project box if you would like.
I have some 3M water proof sealing tape that I put around the board before covering it with electrical tape.Forgot to take a pic of the sealing tape.Sorry guys.
On to the bike.Remove the push pin under the seat be careful you don't launch it into orbit like I did mine.
Remove 3 allen head bolts and the side covers plastic and chrome
Locate the GPS harness.There it is be careful dissconnecting it.(Notice the tad bit of green insulator pulling out from the top of the harness.)
Pull it through the bottom so you have some slack to work with.
Cut the red wire on the GPS side
Splice the red wire from the ATRE to the ECM side of the cut wire and just tap the blue to the blue wire and the black to the black wire.You can use scotch locks or solder. I soldered but show you both.
This is where you need to reconnect the connector and turn the key on make sure neutral light works and the bike will start and idle. If so proceed. If not check your work. Mine did not start at first but I found out the black wire on the ECM harness had pulled out of the plug. Easy fix. Proceed.
-------------------------------
If everything is working then go ahead and dissconnect the connector and tape up your work.
Feed everything back up inside the frame.
Reconnect the harness together and use a piece of double stick tape on the frame and wire ties to secure the ATRE to the frame.
Should look like this when you are done.Make sure it fits snug but not to tight.
Enjoy and be safe out there.
Automatic Timing Retard Eliminator (ATRE) This will let your computer think it is in 4th gear all the time and will not effect idle.Your timing will be advanced and you will notice better throttle response in gears 1-3 4th no change and the 5th gear rev limiter will be the same as 4th.
Here is the layout for what I have built. I had to use several different resistors to make up a 2.7K OHM
If you are lucky enough to have access to a single 2.7K ohm resistor and a 47K ohm then please make the optional less complicated unit on this page.
Updated info as requested for novices 7/1/2008
Black is your Emitter
Blue is the Base it gets the 47K resistor
Red is the Collector it gets the 2.7K resistor
My parts lay out from Radio Shack. red blue and black wire . A pack of 47K,2.2k and 100 Ohm resistors. 1 MPS2222a transistor and a project board. Total was around $6 bucks
Go ahead and shape your leads to prepare for installation on the board.
Should look something like this on top
On bottom SORRY BLURRY
Should look a little like this after being soldered and bridgeing the resistors in a series. My 2.2K was showing 2.1K so I ended up having to use 6 100 ohm to make up the difference. It was spot on at 2.7 though. Always meter everything out and make sure you did not short your circuit anywhere. My 47K was off as well showing 45.6K but it worked out anyway.
Top view all ready to be insulated. You can install in a small project box if you would like.
I have some 3M water proof sealing tape that I put around the board before covering it with electrical tape.Forgot to take a pic of the sealing tape.Sorry guys.
On to the bike.Remove the push pin under the seat be careful you don't launch it into orbit like I did mine.
Remove 3 allen head bolts and the side covers plastic and chrome
Locate the GPS harness.There it is be careful dissconnecting it.(Notice the tad bit of green insulator pulling out from the top of the harness.)
Pull it through the bottom so you have some slack to work with.
Cut the red wire on the GPS side
Splice the red wire from the ATRE to the ECM side of the cut wire and just tap the blue to the blue wire and the black to the black wire.You can use scotch locks or solder. I soldered but show you both.
This is where you need to reconnect the connector and turn the key on make sure neutral light works and the bike will start and idle. If so proceed. If not check your work. Mine did not start at first but I found out the black wire on the ECM harness had pulled out of the plug. Easy fix. Proceed.
-------------------------------
If everything is working then go ahead and dissconnect the connector and tape up your work.
Feed everything back up inside the frame.
Reconnect the harness together and use a piece of double stick tape on the frame and wire ties to secure the ATRE to the frame.
Should look like this when you are done.Make sure it fits snug but not to tight.
Enjoy and be safe out there.