Driveshaft Spline Lube with Grease Needle
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Thread: Driveshaft Spline Lube with Grease Needle

  1. #1
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    Default Driveshaft Spline Lube with Grease Needle

    The horror story about dry splines made me do it ! !
    Remove rear wheel, (see owners manual)
    Remove the three chrome 'acorn' nuts on driveshaft tube.
    Slide out driveshaft with rear hub.
    Put 19mm hex tool in vise, slide on rear hub with axle vertical. (watch vent hole upper inside of hub, for drips)
    Compress driveshaft fully against spring in hub. (to open room for grease) using bar type sliding clamp. ( a really big one)
    With c-v joint grease needle on grease gun, and slant of needle point away from driveshaft, (not to cut/nick seal),
    carefully insert needle between shaft and seal into void created by compressing driveshaft.
    Pump it up ! ! Do this in several spots around driveshaft.
    Then remove clamp, and push/pull driveshaft to distribute the grease on splines (at least that's the plan) Do not over fill with grease,
    it's gotta have some room to move.


    schematic notes from other member post about trouble areas

    my notes to correct the position of parts for better understanding of compressing shaft to gain a void for grease


    Then do the 'Lamonster' driveshaft install: https://www.m109riders.com/forum/inde...pic,830.0.html I tried the 'stab' but no luck. RRH

    ps: Put a little grease on U-joint splines too. IF you suspect that hub end of shaft is totally dry, and or damaged, buy a new seal, and pull it apart, or take it to dealer.



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  3. #2
    M109Riders Founder Lamonster's Avatar
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    Default Re: Driveshaft Spline Lube with Grease Needle


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    Question Grease needle

    Where can I buy a grease needle

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    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thinman View Post
    Where can I buy a grease needle
    An auto parts store should have them. You can also try Sears.
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    Very Active Member IN4RNO-M109R's Avatar
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    A great how to and great photos with labeling !!!
    2008 M109R Orange; Mods: Engine Guards, VStream Lt. tint windshield, Kuryakyn ISO Pegs and Grips + throttle boss, M109 Engine Cover, Tank bra, JS Quick change seat knobs, Battery Tender, Boulevard MC Cover, Gregg's SS side covers, Temp Gauge dip stick, Suzuki rack and backrest, Custom Speedometer background, Amsoil user. Member - Oregon Chapter.

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    Very Active Member No Mas's Avatar
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    Nice post ,I wish i understood my computer that good to do all that .

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    Default My 2 cents

    I would really recommend using Molybdenum Grease or engine assembly lube. You also should not pack this with grease about a table spoon and a half in around the spline is good. You do not want to bind this and if you put to much in it will blow out the dust seal and you do not want that

    Bike has about 9800 miles on it and never looked at the drive line before so I ripped it apart. Whats one more winter fix while the bike is up on the jack. I think it looked good for the miles and had no problems no metal bits and had some moly on it. Cleaned ever thing and put on some engine assembly lube on it. aka moly graphite I would recommended using this on the drive line.

    This is a pic of the splines when I opened it not too bad really.


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    I dont know if theres a trick to it or not but i had one hell of a time getting the drive shaft to line up with the u-joint at the other end of the tube?How did you guys manage that?

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    How many miles on your 9 before you started that invasive surgery?

    or how many miles recomended to do this............?

    Quote Originally Posted by Red Ridin Hood View Post
    The horror story about dry splines made me do it ! !
    Remove rear wheel, (see owners manual)
    Remove the three chrome 'acorn' nuts on driveshaft tube.
    Slide out driveshaft with rear hub.
    Put 19mm hex tool in vise, slide on rear hub with axle vertical. (watch vent hole upper inside of hub, for drips)
    Compress driveshaft fully against spring in hub. (to open room for grease) ant of needle point away from driveshaft, (not to cut/nick seal),
    ......................
    Live your own life....... everyone else has one!

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    Very Active Member Valiant's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ajvossman View Post
    I dont know if theres a trick to it or not but i had one hell of a time getting the drive shaft to line up with the u-joint at the other end of the tube?How did you guys manage that?
    I tried and tried when I did mine. I think I could now that I've seen how it all goes together, but I ended up removing the secondary drive and leaving the final drive loose and pulled back some while reinstalling the secondary.

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    Does anyone have the original pics from this thread.
    I want to see what he means by compressing the shaft and how he did it.
    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drivebai View Post
    Does anyone have the original pics from this thread.
    I want to see what he means by compressing the shaft and how he did it.
    Thanks
    Honestly, here is how I did it. Remove the rear wheel, which is easy and in the manual. Undo the 3 acorn nuts and just pull the whole final drive out. You will need c-clip pliers which you can get at sears or even harbor freight. You need to gently pull out the dust seal, or just buy a new one. I can get you a part number if you need. After you pull out the seal, there is basically a c-clip that you undo. Once you do that, the drive shaft just pulls out. There is a spring in there as well and you can take that out. I just greased everything up, and just put back together. I put plenty of grease on the splines and gear. Then put the spring in, put the drive shaft in and put your c-clip loosely in. Then, have someone hold the final drive up, and you push on the shaft and just squeeze the pliers and drop the c-clip in. It is done. then you just reinstall. I usually do it by the way of removing the secondary, or you can try and stab it in the swingarm and mate it up. The original poster decided to try and pump in without taking the shaft out. It is easier to just take it out. Hope this helps.

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    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigpapaM109 View Post
    Honestly, here is how I did it. Remove the rear wheel, which is easy and in the manual. Undo the 3 acorn nuts and just pull the whole final drive out. You will need c-clip pliers which you can get at sears or even harbor freight. You need to gently pull out the dust seal, or just buy a new one. I can get you a part number if you need. After you pull out the seal, there is basically a c-clip that you undo. Once you do that, the drive shaft just pulls out. There is a spring in there as well and you can take that out. I just greased everything up, and just put back together. I put plenty of grease on the splines and gear. Then put the spring in, put the drive shaft in and put your c-clip loosely in. Then, have someone hold the final drive up, and you push on the shaft and just squeeze the pliers and drop the c-clip in. It is done. then you just reinstall. I usually do it by the way of removing the secondary, or you can try and stab it in the swingarm and mate it up. The original poster decided to try and pump in without taking the shaft out. It is easier to just take it out. Hope this helps.
    I bought that seal and never did it if anyone is interested.
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    Very Active Member Dommy's Avatar
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    My mechanic came up with the idea to drill a small hole close to the rear hub (close to the 3 acorn nuts) and thread in a plug, to have the possibility to squeeze some grease in and to avoid to dismantle the assembly.
    But then he change his mind, as the material there is aluminium and he did not trust to do it.
    Woe to You Oh Earth and Sea for the Devil sends the beast with wrath because he knows the time is short Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the beast for it is a human number its number is M109R.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigpapaM109 View Post
    Honestly, here is how I did it. Remove the rear wheel, which is easy and in the manual. Undo the 3 acorn nuts and just pull the whole final drive out. You will need c-clip pliers which you can get at sears or even harbor freight. You need to gently pull out the dust seal, or just buy a new one. I can get you a part number if you need. After you pull out the seal, there is basically a c-clip that you undo. Once you do that, the drive shaft just pulls out. There is a spring in there as well and you can take that out. I just greased everything up, and just put back together. I put plenty of grease on the splines and gear. Then put the spring in, put the drive shaft in and put your c-clip loosely in. Then, have someone hold the final drive up, and you push on the shaft and just squeeze the pliers and drop the c-clip in. It is done. then you just reinstall. I usually do it by the way of removing the secondary, or you can try and stab it in the swingarm and mate it up. The original poster decided to try and pump in without taking the shaft out. It is easier to just take it out. Hope this helps.
    So you don't really save much time by using the grease needle. Thanks for your help i might just get a new seal and do it properly then.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Drivebai View Post
    So you don't really save much time by using the grease needle. Thanks for your help i might just get a new seal and do it properly then.
    Sorry for the delay as I don't have tapatalk on my phone currently and haven't logged on. My thought on it is that I "preferred" to get in there and check the status of the splines. At that point I cleaned out the old grease and put new grease in. The needle can work, but I just don't like to do things half way.

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    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
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    The seal part number is 09283-30026. I'm putting a add in the MD chapter for it.
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