M109 Rider Forums banner

Loose clutch nut repair by Listan1

55K views 73 replies 37 participants last post by  Mmm109 
#1 ·
There have be quite a few repairs having to be done because of a loose Tubular Nut on the clutch of the 109. When this nut backs off it can lockup the transmission and bring the bike to an abrupt stop. There really should be a recall notice on this from Suzuki but who knows if that will ever happen. For those of you that don't want to wait for that to happen there has been a great writeup on how to do this repair yourself. Listan1 has a great page built with step by step instructions and photos. You can go directly to it here http://pagreaves.com/109/clutch/clutch.htm

I'm going to re-post this information here just in case it goes away for some reason on his site. Thank Listan1 for the time and effort he took to do this. :doorag:
_________________________________________________

I ride my bike every day and today road to work came home all’s well
Just a few ago I went to up the road and suddenly I had no clutch
No clutch, will not change gear; stop the engine and fight it into neutral, start the engine fine; hold the clutch lever kick it into 1st. gear and the bike takes off with the clutch lever depress fully…
Road it back home 2 miles in 2nd. gear, had to start it in first gear like if you are push starting and keep going, fight it into 2nd. gear
Feel like the pressure plate is stock

Call local dealers and none of them ever came across his issue
Talk to Suzuki and they said that they don't have any reports of this happening at all….
Here is the phone number to Suzuki 1-714-572-1490
Something isn't right about this picture… I forget to tell you all that I was coming to a red light at the time when it first happen, luckily I was making a right turn and there was not that much vehicles on the road at that time… this could have been bad had it been earlier
Remember the gears stayed engaged at all times even with the clutch lever depress all the way and it will not into neutral..
Guys keep the phone number and start reporting these issues directly to Suzuki.

Place bike on jack or side-stand.

You will be mainly working on the right side.

A jack is recommended to be able to spin the back wheel... this will be prove useful later.



Remove the exhaust system
For this you will need a socket drive alien key with 8" or longer 3/8 drive extension to remove the header pipes bolts

12 mm socket and wrench



Remove the side-cover bolts

There is 3 bolts with washers, 2 at the top and 1 at the bottom... be sure to put these back in the right place; if not you will have oil leak.

When retighten, go easy on these bolts you don't want to strip the aluminum treads or break any bolts.



Bottom side-cover bolt with the washer.



Note that there is 2 long bolts in this set that also need to be install in the right place (upper left side cover)
Clean and inspect.



Remove the side-cover... there is 2 dowels on the cover.
Use a rubber mallet to lightly tap the side cover loose.

Try not to rip the gasket by carefully removing the cover.

I was able to re-use my gasket.

If damage replace gasket.

This are must be oil free and clean when reinstalling or you may have an oil leak.

Clean and inspect.



Dowels on the side-cover must be oil free and clean when reinstalling or you may have an oil leak.

Clean and inspect.



PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR
With the transmission in neutral hold the clutch lever and spin the rear wheel... the PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR should spin freely, if not move on to the next step.



CLUTCH PRESSURE DISC

Press clutch lever the disc should move out slightly out and the rear wheel should be able to spin freely if not, remove the 6 bolts (10 mm socket) and springs.

Remove CLUTCH PRESSURE DISC and inspect for damage.

When retighten, go easy on these bolts you don't want to strip the aluminum treads or break any bolts.



Spin rear wheel to see if the PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR spins freely.

Push the CLUTCH PUSH PIECE in and then press the clutch lever.

The piece should move out about 1/4 inch, if so then move on to nest step.



Remove the CLUTCH PUSH PIECE by pulling it out, there is washers and a bearing here.

Clean and inspect.



Remove CLUTCH DRIVE PLATES

Clean and inspect each plates and set them down in the order and position they are remove, will also be a good time to order any damage or worn clutch drive plates.



Spin rear wheel to see if the PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR spins freely.



CLUTCH SLEEVE HUB NUT

Pry or tap the locking bend back to its original shape on the hub nut.

When reinstalling this nut has to be retighten at about 80 ft lbs.... I just use the impact gun and get it nice and tight. EDIT- Clutch sleeve hub nut should be torqued 68.5 lb-ft
You must re-bend the nut to lock the nut back in place.



Remove clean and inspect nut.

Use an impact gun with a 30 mm socket (6 point socket preferable) and remove the hub nut, an electric impact gun works good... as it is not too powerful to cause damage.



Remove clean and inspect washer.



CLUTCH HUB
Remove clean and inspect clutch hub.




Now spin rear wheel to see if the PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR spins freely, if it does spin freely at this point... you are there.

Clean and inspect.



Tubular Nut

There is a nut that look like a gear in the center of the PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR... check to see if it is loose, if you can turn it by hand, you found your problem.

Remove the nut and inspect.





Clean Tubular Nut with electrical contact cleaner or a solvent that those not leave any residue.

Apply lock-tite when installing nut.



Remove washer and PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR clean and inspect.



Clean, inspect and apply lock-tite when installing.

The gear is not listed separately in the parts manual and may be sold as part of the PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR




Clean and inspect gear, washers and bearings.



Clean and inspect PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR SPACER.



Clean and inspect.




Now you have everything clean and inspected, order all necessary parts and reverse the disassemble process to install.

Clean everything before installing...

After a short test drive I will recommend a oil & filter change too... your engine was exposed to dust and lint...

my test drive was done on the jack... be very cautious doing this...

good luck

Listan1



Clutch parts name & part Number

1. 21151-48G00 SPACER, PRIMARY DRIVE GEAR 1

2. 21100-48G00 GEAR ASSY, PRIMARY DRIVE 1

3. 21410-48G00 HUB, CLUTCH 1

4. 21413-48G00 SPRING, CLUTCH 6

5. 21441-48G00 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.1

6. 21441-48G10 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.2

7. 21441-48G20 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.3

8. 21441-48G30 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVE NO.4

9. 21451-48G00 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVEN NO.1

10. 21451-48G10 PLATE, CLUTCH DRIVEN NO.2

11. 21462-48G00 DISC, CLUTCH PRESSURE 1

12. 21471-48G00 SEAT, WAVE WASHER 1 109X124X1.6

13. 21472-48G00 WASHER, CLUTCH PLATE 1

14. 21482-41G00 BOLT, CLUTCH SPRING 6

15. 09159-24010 NUT, CLUTCH SLEEVE HUB 1

16. 09160-25056 WASHER, CLUTCH SLEEVE HUB THR 1 25X50X2.50

17. 09160-25056 WASHER, PRIMARY DRIVE 1 25X50X2.50

18. 09164-24006 WASHER, CLUTCH SLEEVE HUB WAV 1

19. 09263-32020 BEARING, PRIMARY DRIVE 1 32X37X38.3

20. 23110-24F00 ROD, CLUTCH 1

21. 23111-48G00 ROD, CLUTCH PUSH, L 1

22. 23121-41G00 PIECE, CLUTCH PUSH 1

23. 23122-02FR0 BALL, CLUTCH PUSH 1

24. 23122-48G00-A05 CAMSHAFT, CLUTCH RELEASE 1

25. 23123-41G00-A05 CAP, CLUTCH PUSH ROD 1

26. 23125-48G00-A05 SPRING, CLUTCH RELEASE RETURN 1

27. 23271-48G00-A05 ARM, CLUTCH RELEASE 1

28. 09134-06015-A05 SCREW, CLUTCH PUSH ROD 1

29. 09160-10020-A05 WASHER, CLUTCH RELEASE 1 10.5X24X1.0

30. 09160-15045 WASHER, CLUTCH PUSH PIECE 1 15.5X28X1.0

31. 09263-10014 BEARING, CL RLSE CAM LOWER 1 10X14X10

32. 09263-12027 BEARING, CL RLSE CAM UPPER 1 12X18X12

33. 09263-15003 BEARING, CLUTCH PUSH PIECE 1 15X28X2.0

34. 09282-10012 SEAL, CL RLSE CAMSHAFT OIL 1

35. 09283-06010 SEAL, CLUTCH PUSH ROD OIL 1

36. 09285-10004 SEAL, CLUTCH PUSH ROD CAP 1

37. 01550-0620A BOLT, CL RELEASE ARM 1

38. 08310-0006A NUT, CLUTCH RELEASE ADJ 1
 
See less See more
31
#60 · (Edited)
I pulled my clutch apart this afternoon to replace the hub, and will take the primary gear to the shop tomorrow
to have them remove the locking ring, clean the threads, apply red loctite, and install the locking ring.
Problem = I'm not sure what torque to tell them to set the impact gun.
Various peeps have made differing statements, i.e.
Listan 11/2007
If I recall tighten this nut to about 75 to 80 foot pounds
RCTUNESIT 12/2007
we have done this repair at our shop...torqued to 65psi.
Brent 9/2008
I think he means 65 ft/lb not psi.. I did the math and it came to 75 ft/lb.
Strained 02/2010
The torque is 100 lbs/ft.
Used Loctite Red. Torqued to 100 lbs/ft per Suzuki.
I finally found a back door and got the information for the Honda Spanner/Socket and the Torque Spec.

Pretty good spread between 65 & 100.

My personal opinion is that once you introduce the red-loctite into the conversation, the high "100ft/lb"
torque used by Suzuki is no longer necessary. Suzuki torques it so high because that tightness is the only thing
that is stopping the ring collar from coming loose. With the red-loctite assisting the 'stopping power', the pressure
squeezing the primary gear clutch basket (captured between the gear and the collar) doesn't have to be that high.
I think 75ft/lb would probably suffice, .....but I went for ~85.
 
#63 ·
No Clutch

Hi guys,

I am fairly a new rider on my 2007 M109. I bought it last year few months before winter (only 9k miles). Took good care of it before winter with all the precautionary oil changes... Took my bike out last week..Rode it for a day (did not experience any issues) and next evening, in parking lot, the clutch gave up on me.. As soon as I shift to 1st gear the bike jerks and comes to sudden stop.. I tried adjusting the clutch cable at first but it seems fine. I had no idea what to do before I saw this post.. I really think this is a recall.. I will be talking to Suzuki for possible recall.... Let's see.. I will keep you all posted.. More help always welcome!!! Thanks for all the info...
 
#64 ·
Hi guys,

I am fairly a new rider on my 2007 M109. I bought it last year few months before winter (only 9k miles). Took good care of it before winter with all the precautionary oil changes... Took my bike out last week..Rode it for a day (did not experience any issues) and next evening, in parking lot, the clutch gave up on me.. As soon as I shift to 1st gear the bike jerks and comes to sudden stop.. I tried adjusting the clutch cable at first but it seems fine. I had no idea what to do before I saw this post.. I really think this is a recall.. I will be talking to Suzuki for possible recall.... Let's see.. I will keep you all posted.. More help always welcome!!! Thanks for all the info...
It will NOT be a recall and Suzuki will tell you they haven't heard of this issue. The dealer is going to rape you if you take it to them. Your tube nut has come loose holding the basket to the shaft on the engine. You can fix that yourself.
 
#66 ·
Same problem

I have a 2009 and mine just done the same thing! Haven't tore into it yet but it sounds exactly like what everyone else's is doing. Didn't want to shift and then I realized my clutch wasn't disengaging! I'm not sure what kind of engineering mods they made in 09 but it apparently didn't fix the problem.
 
#67 ·
I have a 2009 and mine just done the same thing! Haven't tore into it yet but it sounds exactly like what everyone else's is doing. Didn't want to shift and then I realized my clutch wasn't disengaging! I'm not sure what kind of engineering mods they made in 09 but it apparently didn't fix the problem.
They haven't changed anything up until then. If they were smart, they would have made it where it was dimpled into prevent it from coming loose. The few that i have fixed have shown no sign of even any locktite.
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top