Well I'll give this a shot, hopefully it will be of help to some of you out. The instructions that came with the guards are pretty good, but the pictures are terrible. I'm only going to highlight the things that I thought would have been nice to have known before starting.
First on step #3 in the instructions I decided that I did not want the tank to be sitting on the plastic side covers when I slide it back so I removed the covers. It is only one extra bolt, 4mm allen head at the bottom of the covers. Both side are pretty much the same with the exception of the seat lock, but the cable comes off easy.
After sliding the tank back you can see the phillips screw. Once the clip, the 2 4mm screws and the 2 phillips screws are removed the covers have to be popped apart, they have small tabs that go into the top of the radiator cowl.
Removing the radiator cowl took more force than I was expecting, I would recommend covering the rear of the front fender with something soft just in case the cowl hits the fender. Also while pulling on the top of the cowl mine split at the top, it looks like it was made to do that, but the instructions make no mention of it.
The hooks on the bottom of the cowl attach to the forward control mounts. I put an old blanket underneath to lay the cowl down on to slide it on without scratching it.
I used some medium strength thread lock (blue) on the bolts, might be a little overkill, but I feel better knowing that I did it.
Right lower bolt is the hex head bolt and washer.
Upper bolt is the shorter of the two 10mm bolts, washer and nut.
Right side installed, now on to the left.
Put the jack and block of wood on the front part of the engine mount only, it is what needs to be supported, not the lower part. I tried it first under both parts of the mount, but was unable to get the bolt started.
I would test fit the left upper before putting the wedge on, I had to use a round file on the hole to deburr it so the guard would go in.
Left top gets the 8mm bolt and the wedge, no washer.
Left lower gets the final bolt, 10x70mm, washer and spacer. The spacer goes between the control mount and the guard.
Left Installed.
Make sure to torque the bolts and put it all back together.
Now if it was just a little warmer I would love to go for a ride, it was about 34 degrees outside when I installed these so hopefully I do not end up with a cold. Even if I do it was worth every minute and I would do it all over again. I must say that I love my 9, but I think they should have done something to make it easier to check the coolant level, there has to be an easier way than removing half of the bike. And I thought checking the oil level was going to be bad. But despite it all she is worth it and I will enjoy every mile.
Ray
P.S. Lamonster I hope this isn't to long of a post, if it is please let me know. Just thought I would try to help provide some info to those who asked.
First on step #3 in the instructions I decided that I did not want the tank to be sitting on the plastic side covers when I slide it back so I removed the covers. It is only one extra bolt, 4mm allen head at the bottom of the covers. Both side are pretty much the same with the exception of the seat lock, but the cable comes off easy.
After sliding the tank back you can see the phillips screw. Once the clip, the 2 4mm screws and the 2 phillips screws are removed the covers have to be popped apart, they have small tabs that go into the top of the radiator cowl.
Removing the radiator cowl took more force than I was expecting, I would recommend covering the rear of the front fender with something soft just in case the cowl hits the fender. Also while pulling on the top of the cowl mine split at the top, it looks like it was made to do that, but the instructions make no mention of it.
The hooks on the bottom of the cowl attach to the forward control mounts. I put an old blanket underneath to lay the cowl down on to slide it on without scratching it.
I used some medium strength thread lock (blue) on the bolts, might be a little overkill, but I feel better knowing that I did it.
Right lower bolt is the hex head bolt and washer.
Upper bolt is the shorter of the two 10mm bolts, washer and nut.
Right side installed, now on to the left.
Put the jack and block of wood on the front part of the engine mount only, it is what needs to be supported, not the lower part. I tried it first under both parts of the mount, but was unable to get the bolt started.
I would test fit the left upper before putting the wedge on, I had to use a round file on the hole to deburr it so the guard would go in.
Left top gets the 8mm bolt and the wedge, no washer.
Left lower gets the final bolt, 10x70mm, washer and spacer. The spacer goes between the control mount and the guard.
Left Installed.
Make sure to torque the bolts and put it all back together.
Now if it was just a little warmer I would love to go for a ride, it was about 34 degrees outside when I installed these so hopefully I do not end up with a cold. Even if I do it was worth every minute and I would do it all over again. I must say that I love my 9, but I think they should have done something to make it easier to check the coolant level, there has to be an easier way than removing half of the bike. And I thought checking the oil level was going to be bad. But despite it all she is worth it and I will enjoy every mile.
Ray
P.S. Lamonster I hope this isn't to long of a post, if it is please let me know. Just thought I would try to help provide some info to those who asked.