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  1. #61

    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by BlackCherry
    there was NO WAY someone had room to get an air wrench on that sucker, so it musta just been hand tightened to 500 lb/ft of torque.
    Remember, the shock and stock bones were most likely installed when there were no pipes in the way.
    Never do anything you wouldn't want to explain to the Paramedics

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  3. #62
    Very Active Member Delmustator's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by Medic1210
    Well, I can assure you, after the second hour, I was calling her a bit©h and all other sorts of bad names.


    Disclaimer: I don't call my woman a bit©h. She would beat the out of me if I did.
    I call my wife "Me Punta". It's better than the B word. My wife won't hit me physically, she just smiles and then rips a new one in my wallet..
    -Del
    2006 VB M109R with a few MODs....

  4. #63
    Very Active Member steve j's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by Medic1210
    LOL, BlackCherry, when I started reading your post, I thought you had dug up my old post from when I installed mine.

    I think some of my bolts had seized because one of the threads actually sheared off. I also began rounding the bolt heads since all I could fit in the tight space was a couple crescent wrenches. Like you, you couldn't pay me to install these for other people. I should have driven up to Raleigh to visit Del for the day. Here's a pic of my bolt that broke a thread and nearly rounded the head. You can see where the thread sheared.



    If you are talking about the very end thread that looks broken, it ain't. thats a special locking nut. could be thats why they are hard to get off, they don't want those just falling off. I am sure a little anti-seize grease on the threads would not hurt though.

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  6. #64
    Very Active Member Shock's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Just an FYI... I had to tighten the suspension up to 6 after I lowered. I bottomed out a few times on my test ride afterwards. And I'm not a big guy. 5'9 185.


  7. #65

    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by Shock
    Just an FYI... I had to tighten the suspension up to 6 after I lowered. I bottomed out a few times on my test ride afterwards. And I'm not a big guy. 5'9 185.
    I don't see how a fella your size is bottoming out the suspension. You still have the full suspension travel that the shock will give. I'm 210 and I have yet to bottom out.... even on some kidney slapping bumps.
    Never do anything you wouldn't want to explain to the Paramedics

  8. #66
    Very Active Member Shock's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    I can't say for sure that it was bottoming out but it sure sounded like it.


  9. #67
    Very Active Member Shock's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Unless it was something like the kickstand; but it was a banging sound when i hit a sizable bump. No tire rub though...


  10. #68

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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    There are a couple of Bolts I would Recommend Grinding down that are over the rear tire If you are bottoming out You should have a couple of Bolt scrapes to show for it!

  11. #69
    Very Active Member Shock's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by silentrider
    There are a couple of Bolts I would Recommend Grinding down that are over the rear tire If you are bottoming out You should have a couple of Bolt scrapes to show for it!
    Thanks for the head's up on that. My 280 should be here any day and I certainly wouldn't want anything like that.


  12. #70
    Very Active Member Listan1's Avatar
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    Default ranting on

    Why not just remove the exhaust, or is it not in the way
    Some time it is easier to take a bit more time to take other things out of the way so that you can see better and gain access
    I am a shop supervisor; we have loaders, graders, excavators, rollers, trucks, crushers, and just a bunch of RoadTec paver… most of these machines are new models and more and more compact than ever… I have this problem with my guys always complaining how they are having such a hard time with taking anything apart. Then I look at what they are doing, they are trying to take a pump or something with a pipe or a hose, or a bracket in front of it… instead of taking a little time to remove these thing out of the way, they will spend all day fighting and fusing with the part… a 2 hr job turn into and all day thing…
    Then you say to them why don’t you just remove pipe… they will reply that that is just extra work or you should not have take all that off to get to this one thing or there is oil in that pipe or something like that
    I will remove ten things to get to one if it will make my job easier
    PS. small adjustable wrenches have no place in a toolbox and should be avoided
    Always use the right tool for the job, and never attempt to loosen or tighten a tight bolt or not with an open end wrench…
    As for your damage threats, look at your nut... It is distorted, something most give…
    Each time a new specialize machine is introduce to us, I get to go to the manufacture for schooling… it may be RoadTec in Tennessee , Cat in Japan or USA, or Bomag in Germany, it’s all the same… don’t work hard, work smart
    Things are at for the most part easier than they seems and even more easier that we make it
    No offence to anyone, but you can do most of the work yourself to your bike and save lots of cash while gaining knowledge and having fun with it too

    The nice thing about this site is that people here are willing to help and share info… hell even parts for that matter…
    Sorry if It seems that I was ranting on
    Listan1

  13. #71

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    Default Re: ranting on

    Quote Originally Posted by Listan1
    Why not just remove the exhaust, or is it not in the way
    Some time it is easier to take a bit more time to take other things out of the way so that you can see better and gain access
    I am a shop supervisor; we have loaders, graders, excavators, rollers, trucks, crushers, and just a bunch of RoadTec paver… most of these machines are new models and more and more compact than ever… I have this problem with my guys always complaining how they are having such a hard time with taking anything apart. Then I look at what they are doing, they are trying to take a pump or something with a pipe or a hose, or a bracket in front of it… instead of taking a little time to remove these thing out of the way, they will spend all day fighting and fusing with the part… a 2 hr job turn into and all day thing…
    Then you say to them why don’t you just remove pipe… they will reply that that is just extra work or you should not have take all that off to get to this one thing or there is oil in that pipe or something like that
    I will remove ten things to get to one if it will make my job easier
    PS. small adjustable wrenches have no place in a toolbox and should be avoided
    Always use the right tool for the job, and never attempt to loosen or tighten a tight bolt or not with an open end wrench…
    As for your damage threats, look at your nut... It is distorted, something most give…
    Each time a new specialize machine is introduce to us, I get to go to the manufacture for schooling… it may be RoadTec in Tennessee , Cat in Japan or USA, or Bomag in Germany, it’s all the same… don’t work hard, work smart
    Things are at for the most part easier than they seems and even more easier that we make it
    No offence to anyone, but you can do most of the work yourself to your bike and save lots of cash while gaining knowledge and having fun with it too

    The nice thing about this site is that people here are willing to help and share info… hell even parts for that matter…
    Sorry if It seems that I was ranting on
    Listan1
    Well I gotta think this was pretty much directed at me.
    The main reason I didn't remove the exhaust is because I know dozens of other people have already installed the bones and nobody else had to remove it, so why should I have to remove it if I know it can be done without going through that hassle? I was determined to do the job like everybody else did. Plus, once you remove the exhaust you need new crush gaskets for the header pipes or you won't get a good seal and you will have decel popping, etc. So since I didn't have any extra crush gaskets handy I wasn't going through that hassle. Besides, removing the exhaust wouldn't have helped that much anyway. The frame being in the way was more of an issue, and whatever that stupid little box was that had 2 cables running to it. Believe me I tried to figure out how to totally remove that little box but I couldn't figure it out. Also, I'm stubborn!!

  14. #72
    Very Active Member azvforce's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Just installed the DLP bones last night. Took me about 45 minutes and I had no problems at all. One nut on the exhaust side was pretty tight, I was able to get it with my crescent wrench though. Looks way better.
    '06 silver 9er
    CM Rockstars,10" rear with 280/160, super fat forx, custom 2into1, lowered 2.75, k/n on TBs, power pro, iso grips, low rear caliper, CA tailight, billet led signals, debeaver, tre, tach relocate, polished hub,HID

  15. #73
    Seasoned Member seapup's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by azvforce
    Just installed the DLP bones last night. Took me about 45 minutes and I had no problems at all. One nut on the exhaust side was pretty tight, I was able to get it with my crescent wrench though. Looks way better.
    How low did you go? Share some pix man!

  16. #74
    Very Active Member bodqua7's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    When I installed my bones and my brothers it only took me 45 mins to an hour on each bike. I broke all the bolts loose with weight on wheels before lifting the bike. Sorry to hear you guys had such a hard time. I'm in Virginia Beach so if anyone needs them installed I would be glad to do them. Lets see dealerships charge 60 per hour on labor I'll do them for 50 an hour.

  17. #75
    Very Active Member SteveS's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    I was able to access the right side bolt by removing the smaller section of the heat shield. It's only one 6mm hex bolt underneath, and it slides right off.


    Then I was able to use the 19mm socket on a 3/8" ratchet with extension.



  18. #76
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    I have a question that I could not find answered from first to last comment. Possibly I missed it but going to ask anyway. A woman often rides with me on a regular basis and with lowering it does it affect this in any way? Is it more likely to bottom out? Do I need to make sure I tighten my suspension? Any input would be great. :read:




    2007 Black M109R

  19. #77

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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    This may help answer your question...
    https://www.m109riders.com/forum/inde...html#msg158446

  20. #78
    Very Active Member Delmustator's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    No - I ride (2) up all the time.

    I cannot say that I have never bottomed out. My dumbazz went across a tall speed bump last weekend and scraped. I usually go around but for some reason, I hit it squared up. This was a tall speed bump too. Everyone else went around it.

    HOWEVER, it was not because the bike was lowered. It would have done it even stock. It scraped the front from the forks suspension action.
    -Del
    2006 VB M109R with a few MODs....

  21. #79

    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)



    Awesome info guys, as this was my next task. Greatly appreciated !

  22. #80
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by mattman
    MAN AWSOME JOB ON THE HOW TO.ITS PEOPLE LIKE YOU THAT MAKE THIS WEB SITE A GREAT PLACE
    good job!

  23. #81

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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    I did my 2.25" DLP bones last night. I did not have any major problems but I went really slow and read this post like 100 times cause I am not very mechanical and I did not want to screw it up... Thanks to this very well done "how to" it was very simple... I am new to the forum and dont know how to post pics yet but I will figure it out tonight and take a few. Thanks... Joe


  24. #82

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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Thanks to this website, I got my 2.75" bones installed tonight without much trouble. Thanks to a Craftsman ATV/Motorcycle lift, a 15" steel pipe breaker bar, and a 2.5 ton floor jack all went well. Took me about 1.5 hours by myself with my 10 year old son holding an open end wrench twice as I worked a couple bolts.
    I would like to volunteer my time to anyone in the Washington/BC Canada area thats interested in putting these on. It really changes the look of the bike. We'll see how they ride tomorrow.


  25. #83

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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by bldenson
    Thanks to this website, I got my 2.75" bones installed tonight without much trouble. Thanks to a Craftsman ATV/Motorcycle lift, a 15" steel pipe breaker bar, and a 2.5 ton floor jack all went well. Took me about 1.5 hours by myself with my 10 year old son holding an open end wrench twice as I worked a couple bolts.
    I would like to volunteer my time to anyone in the Washington/BC Canada area thats interested in putting these on. It really changes the look of the bike. We'll see how they ride tomorrow.




    You gotta love a 10 yr old that wrenches on dad's bike.




  26. #84
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    done and done...... (phew... )

    just over two hours start to finish. just need to wash up and go for a test ride. I'm not much of a mechanic but I do have a couple of decent tools and spent the extra bucks for the Craftsman aluminum jack, it has a really low profile and easily goes under the bike even with the bones. I used an impact wrench for removing the bolts and they all came right off, no problems at all. But I didn't have the rear tire supported at first which made removal more of a pain. a couple suggestions to anyone doing this simple mod:

    1. Have an extra hand around. It's worth a twelve pack even if it's just for moral support.
    2. Get an impact wrench if you don't have one! Much much easier!
    3. Position your jack just at the end of the shock, right where the adjuster is. Too far behind it and the shock won't hang down out of the way
    4. Support the rear tire!

  27. #85
    Very Active Member Delmustator's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by painter
    done and done...... (phew... )

    just over two hours start to finish. just need to wash up and go for a test ride. I'm not much of a mechanic but I do have a couple of decent tools and spent the extra bucks for the Craftsman aluminum jack, it has a really low profile and easily goes under the bike even with the bones. I used an impact wrench for removing the bolts and they all came right off, no problems at all. But I didn't have the rear tire supported at first which made removal more of a pain. a couple suggestions to anyone doing this simple mod:

    1. Have an extra hand around. It's worth a twelve pack even if it's just for moral support.
    2. Get an impact wrench if you don't have one! Much much easier!
    3. Position your jack just at the end of the shock, right where the adjuster is. Too far behind it and the shock won't hang down out of the way
    4. Support the rear tire!
    Excellent points Painter! Point #1 is the biggie. Everyone loves their 109 but there is NO reason to have the bike on top of you, giving you some lovin... The bike lifts from Sears, Pep-Boys, etc are plenty enough to lift the bike BUT it can be pretty unstable up in the air. And breaking those stubborn bolts free could easily cause the bike to fall on top of you. If you have to do the job solo, put a couple of tie-down straps in place to keep the bike stable OR have your buddy hold your beer and the bike while your wrenching on it. Hell, buddies are good for something...

    -Del
    2006 VB M109R with a few MODs....

  28. #86
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Well, I gotta say thanks for the pics. They helped me a bunch. I put my 1.5 inch bones on today, and it makes a huge difference. I cant wait to ride it to see how it feels. Again, thanks!


    Ridin it like I stole it....

  29. #87
    Very Active Member Delmustator's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by BigPapaM109
    Like stated above, 1.5 hours to do it but a second time I could do it in about 1/2 hour. One thing I agree with is using an impact gun if you can. The other thing is when you try to take the shock bolt out it is hard as it is under a little pressure. You can drive it out some from the other side, then take some vice grips and lock on under the head of the bolt and smack the vice grips with the hammer to remove it the rest of the way. Makes it easier.
    I used a floor jack to lift the rear tire and take the pressure off the shock bolt. Mine came out with no resistance.
    -Del
    2006 VB M109R with a few MODs....

  30. #88
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Del:

    Nicely done tutorial.

  31. #89

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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    dera friend , i have purchace i 1.5 inch bone, can you tell me if these is supouse to drop the level of the bike and also how it will affect the handeling of the bike when cornering, can you please recomend me wich lenght of bone to purchace in order to drop the bike but obtening a good handeling performance and avoide suspention problems

  32. #90
    Very Active Member Delmustator's Avatar
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    Default Re: How To: Lower the M109R (with pics)

    Quote Originally Posted by puro
    dera friend , i have purchace i 1.5 inch bone, can you tell me if these is supouse to drop the level of the bike and also how it will affect the handeling of the bike when cornering, can you please recomend me wich lenght of bone to purchace in order to drop the bike but obtening a good handeling performance and avoide suspention problems
    I guess it all depends on your riding style and personal preference.

    I dropped my M109R by 2.5 inches with JasonZ bones. I made no further changes. I found that the bike handled better than stock but I had to modify my riding style and NOT flick the bike too deep into corners. It would scrape the pegs easier than before. But my feet are flat on the ground and I don't have to stretch to clear the right side.

    Recently I changed tires to the Dunlop Elite IIIs and this raised the rear about 1 inch. Again, the bike handling is superior over stock but I don't scrape as easily. The stance still looks great as well.

    -Del
    2006 VB M109R with a few MODs....

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