Tach relocation Mod (Headlight Cowling) - Page 6
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Thread: Tach relocation Mod (Headlight Cowling)

  1. #151
    Very Active Member jdmitchell's Avatar
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    Wrap a bicycle inner tube around the tach like I did. It worked great, but I didn't have a hole in the back of the headlight either. Try it, you might be surprised how well it works.

    Check this thread for more info.

    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...18#post1309618

    You can run, but you will just die tired..............

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  3. #152
    Very Active Member mojo!k's Avatar
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    tnx JD,
    unfortunately, the hole was already there ....the tube isn't enough to fill the gaps. Tnx for the idea tho Great thinking outside the box on that one
    I think I'll use weather stripping for the sides and mesh for the top. Might add a LED in there too
    I'll get to it Friday and see where this goes - and post a few pics.

    Update: Not sure I like how the headlight cover tilts down with the tach down on the trip tree. .... I do like the tach position tho. I might still do more to bring the cover to a more stock position but it'll require more modification
    Last edited by mojo!k; 01-22-2011 at 09:09 PM. Reason: updated

  4. #153
    Very Active Member VagPuncher's Avatar
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    did most of this today..hardest part seems to be getting the headlight cowl back on.. gonna paint the chrome piece silver so i decided to leave it off till paint is done..

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  6. #154
    Active Member ninesled's Avatar
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    Default curious?

    Do you still have room for A HID ballast after this mod? and how does the rain effect the the bulb and ballast will it short out?
    If you can't change your friends "change your friends".

  7. #155
    Very Active Member VagPuncher's Avatar
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    i put the small ballast h.i.d kit in and it fit..as for rain? i wouldnt know..maybe a good idea to put it in like a ziploc bag or something like that just to be on the safe side..

  8. #156
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spankster View Post
    OK guys,¬* Eveyone has added so much to this site, I wanted to give something in return.¬* I am no mechanic, but loved the way the tach looked inside the headlight cowling, so I went for it.¬* This is my first attempt at a "How Too" post, so I hope it gets the point across...¬* It took me 3 Hours, but like I said I am no mechanic.

    Tools Needed: Metric Allen key ratchet set.
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* Philips screwdriver
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* Metric ratchet set.
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* #21 Drill Bit
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* 5 mm Tapper or a 10/32 tapper and 2 10/32 Allen bolts/Washers to replace the existing bolts form the tach bracket.
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* Dremel or wheel grinder

    1. Remove the head light cowling from the bike...¬* There are 2 Allen screws, and to push pin plastic connectors.¬* Remove all 4.¬* Then gently wiggle the cowling straight forward.¬* Once it comes away from the bike, unplug the Headlight connector...


    2. Remove handle bars, remember to mark with tape or a marker their position in the risers.¬* 4 Allen bolts remove these.
    3. Remove the two Allen bolts underneath the tach. and lift off the risers.


    4. disconnect the tach wire harness, there are 2.¬* Undue the re-usable tie wrap.¬* NOTE >>> (Do not cut the tie wrap you can use it later) pull the disconnected wire through the black plastic cover.¬*


    5. On th bottom of the tach, there are three screws and a steel plate.¬* Remove the steel plate by removing the rubber grommets, and then unscrew the 3 philips, to remove the chrome housing.¬* (the housing is not used again).¬* Lay the tach aside for later...



    6. Now you need to loosen the Brake line "T" coupling.¬* There is a small bolt at the front of the coupling... NOTE>>> (The coupling is attached to the triple tree by some flimsy sheet metal.¬* Take care when loosing the nut, to not twist the holder...)
    Once this is loose, push the coupling as far left as it will go.¬* This is needed to give you room for the tack to lay flat against the triple tree. Tighten the nut back up...


    7. Put the tach flat and level on the triple tree.¬* Make sure you snug the outer edges of the tach, against the Risers.¬* It feels tight but it does fit in there.¬* once you have the postion centered, mark your drill hole marks with a punch, or a sharpie...¬*
    If you marked them with a pen, you need to use a punch of some kind, to get an indent for the drill bit to start.¬*

    8. Drill your holes using a #21 Drill bit.¬* NOTE>>>¬* (Make sure to keep your drill bit perpendicular to the triple tree).¬* Drill though the triple tree. Gently...

    9.¬* Use your Tapper and carefully tap the 2 holes.¬* Again keep the tapper perpendicular to the triple tree.¬* The tapping was quit easy.¬* (I used a 10/32 kit with the #21 bit included , because I could not find a 5mm tap...¬*

    10. Then I used 3/4 10/32 Allen bolts and washers to attach the tach.¬* Use a ratchet and bolt the tach onto the triple tree...


    11. Once the tach is bolted on, re-route your wire through the middle of the black plastic cover, and re-connect.¬* Just click them together.¬* There is a re-usable tie wrap under there to make the wires meat.¬* NOTE>>>¬* Make sure all wiring is in front of the black palstic cover.¬* Nothing between it and the forks..

    12. Now the fun part.¬* Mark the plastic cover with a pen and out line the back of the tach.¬* This is the area that you will need to cut out, so the plastic back will completely slide back to the forks and triple tree.¬* I was not very good at making this neat, with the dremel.¬* But it served its purpose.¬*
    NOTE>>> (make sure you cut on the inside of the holes for the plastic push pins, that attach to the cowling).¬* You want to make sure that you cut a bit of a bow on the sides so that when the plastic is put back in place, it fits snug to the tach.¬* Trial and error here.¬* Take a little and then fit, and so on.¬* BUT THE BLACK PALSTIC COVER MUST FREELY REST AGAINST THE TRIPLE TREE AND FORKS.¬* After you cut, use your dremel to sand the rough edges...


    14. Blow out all the plastic shavings, and reconnect your Headlight Plug and put your cowling back on.¬* It will be snug but it fits just fine.¬* Attach the bolts and the plastic push pins to the back...¬*

    13.¬*Before you re- attach your handle bars, You need to take off the tach bracket and polish it, and maybe put 2 chrome bolts in the empty holes.


    Now reattach your handle bars, and you are finished...

    This is the view from sitting on the bike.¬* Perfect view of the gauges.


    Looks much meaner now.¬*
    They way it should have been IMO


    Other than that you are ready to ride... ¬* Hope this helps you out...

    I CANT SEE THE PICS PLEASE HELP....

  9. #157
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    Quote Originally Posted by Spankster View Post
    OK guys,¬* Eveyone has added so much to this site, I wanted to give something in return.¬* I am no mechanic, but loved the way the tach looked inside the headlight cowling, so I went for it.¬* This is my first attempt at a "How Too" post, so I hope it gets the point across...¬* It took me 3 Hours, but like I said I am no mechanic.

    Tools Needed: Metric Allen key ratchet set.
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* Philips screwdriver
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* Metric ratchet set.
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* #21 Drill Bit
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* 5 mm Tapper or a 10/32 tapper and 2 10/32 Allen bolts/Washers to replace the existing bolts form the tach bracket.
    ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* ¬* Dremel or wheel grinder

    1. Remove the head light cowling from the bike...¬* There are 2 Allen screws, and to push pin plastic connectors.¬* Remove all 4.¬* Then gently wiggle the cowling straight forward.¬* Once it comes away from the bike, unplug the Headlight connector...


    2. Remove handle bars, remember to mark with tape or a marker their position in the risers.¬* 4 Allen bolts remove these.
    3. Remove the two Allen bolts underneath the tach. and lift off the risers.


    4. disconnect the tach wire harness, there are 2.¬* Undue the re-usable tie wrap.¬* NOTE >>> (Do not cut the tie wrap you can use it later) pull the disconnected wire through the black plastic cover.¬*


    5. On th bottom of the tach, there are three screws and a steel plate.¬* Remove the steel plate by removing the rubber grommets, and then unscrew the 3 philips, to remove the chrome housing.¬* (the housing is not used again).¬* Lay the tach aside for later...



    6. Now you need to loosen the Brake line "T" coupling.¬* There is a small bolt at the front of the coupling... NOTE>>> (The coupling is attached to the triple tree by some flimsy sheet metal.¬* Take care when loosing the nut, to not twist the holder...)
    Once this is loose, push the coupling as far left as it will go.¬* This is needed to give you room for the tack to lay flat against the triple tree. Tighten the nut back up...


    7. Put the tach flat and level on the triple tree.¬* Make sure you snug the outer edges of the tach, against the Risers.¬* It feels tight but it does fit in there.¬* once you have the postion centered, mark your drill hole marks with a punch, or a sharpie...¬*
    If you marked them with a pen, you need to use a punch of some kind, to get an indent for the drill bit to start.¬*

    8. Drill your holes using a #21 Drill bit.¬* NOTE>>>¬* (Make sure to keep your drill bit perpendicular to the triple tree).¬* Drill though the triple tree. Gently...

    9.¬* Use your Tapper and carefully tap the 2 holes.¬* Again keep the tapper perpendicular to the triple tree.¬* The tapping was quit easy.¬* (I used a 10/32 kit with the #21 bit included , because I could not find a 5mm tap...¬*

    10. Then I used 3/4 10/32 Allen bolts and washers to attach the tach.¬* Use a ratchet and bolt the tach onto the triple tree...


    11. Once the tach is bolted on, re-route your wire through the middle of the black plastic cover, and re-connect.¬* Just click them together.¬* There is a re-usable tie wrap under there to make the wires meat.¬* NOTE>>>¬* Make sure all wiring is in front of the black palstic cover.¬* Nothing between it and the forks..

    12. Now the fun part.¬* Mark the plastic cover with a pen and out line the back of the tach.¬* This is the area that you will need to cut out, so the plastic back will completely slide back to the forks and triple tree.¬* I was not very good at making this neat, with the dremel.¬* But it served its purpose.¬*
    NOTE>>> (make sure you cut on the inside of the holes for the plastic push pins, that attach to the cowling).¬* You want to make sure that you cut a bit of a bow on the sides so that when the plastic is put back in place, it fits snug to the tach.¬* Trial and error here.¬* Take a little and then fit, and so on.¬* BUT THE BLACK PALSTIC COVER MUST FREELY REST AGAINST THE TRIPLE TREE AND FORKS.¬* After you cut, use your dremel to sand the rough edges...


    14. Blow out all the plastic shavings, and reconnect your Headlight Plug and put your cowling back on.¬* It will be snug but it fits just fine.¬* Attach the bolts and the plastic push pins to the back...¬*

    13.¬*Before you re- attach your handle bars, You need to take off the tach bracket and polish it, and maybe put 2 chrome bolts in the empty holes.


    Now reattach your handle bars, and you are finished...

    This is the view from sitting on the bike.¬* Perfect view of the gauges.


    Looks much meaner now.¬*
    They way it should have been IMO


    Other than that you are ready to ride... ¬* Hope this helps you out...

    Any chance the 12yr old pictures can get posted again? lol

  10. #158
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Use chrome browser and there is a photobucket fix that will let you see them, I see them all right now

  11. #159
    Member WAM109RBOSS16's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingCircus View Post
    Use chrome browser and there is a photobucket fix that will let you see them, I see them all right now
    I have that extension installed and I still don't see any pictures in the OP, just a lot of text.

  12. #160
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Double check and maybe reinstall. I see them all

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