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Cycle House Licence Plate Bracket Install

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84K views 120 replies 64 participants last post by  FlyingCircus 
#1 ·
Print version http://www.m109riders.com/howto/cycplate/

http://directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=6076&str=290

This is a pretty easy deal but I'll post this anyway as it may help some of you.

First thing you need to do is pop off the seat. If you need a picture for this then take this bracket to your dealer for the install. ;)

Then you want to pop off your passenger seat or cover, what ever you have on there now.



Now you want to go ahead and pull off the tail section. The first time I did this I pulled off the side covers but you really don't need to. Just pop the corner of each side cover so you can get into the bolt behind the side cover. This will save you a lot of time. There are two Philip head bolts that you have to access from under the fender, don't forget those. ;)



Now that you have all the bolts out just slide the tail section toward the back of the bike and unplug the tail light and set off to the side.



Now unplug the turn signals and plate light and push the wires back down the holes and out of the way.

Now that the wires are out of the way you can cut that big hunk of plastic off. The first time I used a die grinder but this time I used a hacksaw blade just to see if it would work and it worked pretty darn good. :bigthumbsup:

Just cut it flush with the bottom of the plastic plate.




Remove the two stock bolts and replace with new longer bolts from kit. Tighten bolts and put spacer nuts on the back side of bolts.




Install lights to plate bracket and run wires through stock holes.
There are a bunch of different lights that will work on this bracket and you could reinstall the stock lights if you wanted to. Some plate frames have lights built into them too so the lights are up to you. If you use lights other than stock you will need to splice the connectors to your new lights.



Now all you need to do is put it all back together the same way it came apart. You no longer look like a stock bike, :bigthumbsup:

 
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#27 ·
I am in the process of installing the plate bracket and Kury Silver Bullets. Am I correct in assuming the greenish colored wire is the ground and the striped wire is the hot? And for the plate light the Grey color wire is ground and the striped one hot? I don't want to blow a fuse. Got all my connections ready, just want to be sure before I squeeze the pliers.
 
#28 ·
Never mind... I figured it out... Solid colored wires on bike are the hot wires. Striped wires are ground. Backward from what I expected. I just touched the hot wire from the Silver bullet to one wire and touched the ground to a ground on the bike to see which wire caused the light to work. Same with the small 4 LED cluster light I bought for the plate light. I guess I may end up needing to install the load equalizer. I don't much mind the quick flashing, but I have lost the "park" lights... when the rear turn lights light up solid when key is turned all the way clockwise. I don't have the brake hooked back up yet. Maybe that is why. I'll check that out first.
 
#29 ·
Ok, so I got everything installed... Plate bracket, Kury Small amber LED Silver Bullets, 4 LED Cluster to shine on plate and Backoff XP brake modulator. I'm soaked in sweat. Getting the tail piece back on was a small challenge to say the least. Holes didn't want to line right up. As for the Kury Small Silver Bullet LED signals, they aren't very bright compared to stock. Not like I thought they would be. They will do, but I gotta say, the originals lit up better. I have lost the "park" feature, as the signals won't stay lit constantly. The only thing that stays lit is the plate light and brake light. Not a very big deal. I don't even use that feature. I have not installed the Load equalizer that came with the lights... I figure that if they aren't very bright, maybe the rapid flashing will get the needed attention when turning. The Led Cluster light like Lamont used on his bracket is the one I used. I gotta say it doesn't do a very good job of lighting the plate. It shines a very bright spot on the top center, but the rest of the plate is only partially lit, and the numbers/letters are cast in shadows from the light hitting them from the side. To install that light, I bored a small hole and ran the wires up through. I haven't actualy mounted the light, as the wires pulled through the hole keeps the light pretty much in place. Besides, the light will be in the way of the tail piece if mounted with tape or screws... unless you notch the part of the tail that would hit the light. As I have it now, I just pulled a bit of slack in the wires and slipped the tail piece under the light. I would be interested in seeing how Lamont worked around this issue with his install. I may end up with a plate cover that has a light on the top, but I'm not sure if the angle of the cycle house bracket will leave enough room for one of these frames.

As for the Backoff XP, it works just as described. I just felt like pulling my hair out trying to get it wired. Apparently it won't work until it's grounded... really grounded, as in the wire snugged tightly under a frame bolt. Just lightly grounding it will not work. I was just about to remove it completely, but desided to really snug the ground wire down. Worked fine. I didn't have a soldering gun, so I used the old crimp connectors. I installed a plug connector to the brake wire so I can still remove the tail piece. I have the modulator set to do 5 very rapid flashes followed by solid on. I liked this better than the 3 slow flashes followed by 3 seconds of solid on which repeated over and over as long as the brake handle is activated. Anyway, I'll put some pics up tomorrow, as I installed these tonight while at work and don't have my camera. Completed mod looks very nice. Glad I did it, just not sure what I'm gonna do about the plate light. I don't think I really like the 4 LED cluster light, though it will have to do for now.
 
#31 ·
Lamonster said:
My Big Bike LED lights are very bright, not sure why yours are not. ::)
Not sure if you are talking about the signal lights or what... My Small Silver bullets are bright, but they don't throw much light. I haven't looked at them in bright sunlight yet. I just know that they don't appear as bright as the halogen stockers.

I really don't care if it lights up good or not, as long as I don't get pulled over for no light that's good enough for me. :bigthumbsup:
True, I guess I can buy that. I just thought it would light the plate better. The little lights are very bright, but the angle of the plate makes the light shine right on the top center of the plate, while the rest of the plate is bare lit. The numbers and letters are very difficult to read d/t the shadows cast by the light coming in from the side. I guess it doesn't really matter because if a LEO is trying to read my plates at night, his headlights will more than light the plate adequately. As for my other question... How did you install the LED cluster and still allow the tail section to be installed? The lip on the back of the tail piece wraps under the fender past where the light is. Had I screwed it or taped it in place, I wouldn't have been able to get the tail piece back on without notching out that lip to fit around the light. It isn't so much a problem because the wires are pulled through a small hole and actually hold the light in place, yet allow enough 'give' to let the lip on the tail slide under the light. How did you get around this issue with yours?
 
#34 ·
Medic1210 said:
Not sure if you are talking about the signal lights or what... My Small Silver bullets are bright, but they don't throw much light. I haven't looked at them in bright sunlight yet. I just know that they don't appear as bright as the halogen stockers.

True, I guess I can buy that. I just thought it would light the plate better. The little lights are very bright, but the angle of the plate makes the light shine right on the top center of the plate, while the rest of the plate is bare lit. The numbers and letters are very difficult to read d/t the shadows cast by the light coming in from the side. I guess it doesn't really matter because if a LEO is trying to read my plates at night, his headlights will more than light the plate adequately. As for my other question... How did you install the LED cluster and still allow the tail section to be installed? The lip on the back of the tail piece wraps under the fender past where the light is. Had I screwed it or taped it in place, I wouldn't have been able to get the tail piece back on without notching out that lip to fit around the light. It isn't so much a problem because the wires are pulled through a small hole and actually hold the light in place, yet allow enough 'give' to let the lip on the tail slide under the light. How did you get around this issue with yours?Â
Just for information- LEO's use a technique where they are behind a vehicle at night, (stopped of course) and turn off their headlights momentarily, if the tag light is not illuminating the tag so he can read it from at least 100 ft away it is out of compliance. This is in Florida.
 
#35 ·
Hey Lamont, if I may make a suggestion regarding your plate bracket... Make the mounting holes about 1/2 inch or so closer to the plate. This will tuck the plate a bit further under the tail section and will make the plate lighting issues less of an issue. The 4 LED cluster will fit better, and also shine down on the plate better. Also, I have been noticing that the plate shakes a lot, possibly because the mounting holes are so far forward, not evenly distributing the weight. With the holes moved, the plate shakes much much less. I had to replace my 4 LED cluster because it quit working, so while I had the tail section off, I took my Dremel tool with a carbide cutting bit and notched out the mounting holes so the screws would slide forward, thus moving the plate back. Then I used some LED bolts that I bought from Advance Auto and mounted 3 of them across the top of the plate. This has helped the lighting issues greatly, and I think the plate looks a bit better slid forward 1/2".

This pic shows how it was notched. Sorry that I didn't take the pics before I re-mounted it. It's at least 1/2" further in, maybe more... I just eyeballed it.



These pics show the lights I mounted. They are Optix LED bolt lights, and they come 2 to a pack. I bought 2 packs, but only decided to use three of them. These are not the kind that shine the light to the side like the kury plate light bolts though. They shine straight down. I did have to use a cutoff wheel to shorten the mounting bolt so it would fit under the tail section. This was very simple and didn't mess up the threads.





 
#37 ·
seapup said:
:bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup: :bigthumbsup:
Who makes those tag bolts and where did you get them???
Those tag bolts are some cheapies I picked up at Wal-Mart. Also saw them at Auto Zone the other day. Cost $6 or so and come with a key/wrench that is needed to tighten them or remove them.
 
G
#39 ·
I assume there was a reason for using the hacksaw to cut the hunk of plastic off the back, why? Aren't there 2 small screws underneath that hold this hunk of plastic on?

I have only taken a quick look at the rear LP holder and noticed the 2 screws, so they may not be what I think they are.

I am going to be doing this mod, so I was just curious about the cutting off the plastic piece.

Thanks

Chad
 
#40 ·
notlohdahc said:
I assume there was a reason for using the hacksaw to cut the hunk of plastic off the back, why? Aren't there 2 small screws underneath that hold this hunk of plastic on?
You are very right to assume that. If all it took were unscrewing 2 screws to remove it, believe me, that's what we would be doing. The stock plate holder is molded to the plastic under the tail. I'm really not 100% sure what those two screws are initially used for, but I know what they are used for now... ;) Also, those screws cannot be removed. There is a metal plate on the other side of the screws too. At least I could not remove mine when I wanted to move the plate bracket back like I did. Since they don't move, I had to make the mount holes bigger.

I have only taken a quick look at the rear LP holder and noticed the 2 screws, so they may not be what I think they are.
Nope, they aren't.

I am going to be doing this mod, so I was just curious about the cutting off the plastic piece.
Don't worry. It's a piece of cake with a hacksaw blade. Just butt it up against the underside of the tail section and have at it. Just be careful when cutting near the stock wires, though those are going to be cut anyway.
 
G
#44 ·
Hey -

New to the board
Just bought an 07' black 109
Got em down to $10,584.65 (heh, heh woo-hoo - must have been the cold weather, year-end, right before Christmas squeeze!)
No pics yet...

Had a question about the license plate mod. I've got to do this because the 2000 LC1500 I've got doesn't have anything on that sleek fender. Anyway, I'm down in Texas and we have a huge inspection sticker that is almost as large as the license plate itself. Does anyone have an idea what to do what that thing? Are there any Texans who've done this mod yet? The Intruder has an Inspection bracket just above the Vance Hines pipes but I haven't seen anyone with anything like that yet on the M109s.

Any help would be appreciated ~
 
#45 ·
daleg18 said:
Hey -

New to the board
Just bought an 07' black 109
Got em down to $10,584.65 (heh, heh woo-hoo - must have been the cold weather, year-end, right before Christmas squeeze!)
No pics yet...

Had a question about the license plate mod. I've got to do this because the 2000 LC1500 I've got doesn't have anything on that sleek fender. Anyway, I'm down in Texas and we have a huge inspection sticker that is almost as large as the license plate itself. Does anyone have an idea what to do what that thing? Are there any Texans who've done this mod yet? The Intruder has an Inspection bracket just above the Vance Hines pipes but I haven't seen anyone with anything like that yet on the M109s.

Any help would be appreciated ~
I'm pretty sure it doesn't have to be in a conspicuous location like on the tag. I'm also almost positive that mod has been done by numerous Texans on this site. I have mine mounted on my left fork behind the headlight nacelle. I'm in NC though, and not sure if the law is the same in Tx.
 
#46 ·
I just finished installing my new clear tail light from clear alternatives and I love it. Thanks to this forum I had no problems installing it. However 3 of the 4 soldered wires came loose and I had to re solder them and I suck at soldering so that was no fun. Also finding a good spot to put the resistors was tough. On the bag it said not to put them near plastic or anything painted and well there really isn't much choice on where to place those things...any thoughts? Also you may have said already but where did you get the metal piece that you mounted your license plate on?
 
#47 ·
ajej4780 said:
I just finished installing.....................
I,m working on mine now, I used an epoxy putty and mounted them to the metal fender under the tail piece. There is an air gap so any heat created will not harm the tail piece. Any heat should also dissipate through the epoxy and use the metal fender as a heat sink. One on each side. :bigthumbsup:

http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20061227/5/9/8/598db75ec845f43eae7bc98c0d899b160_large.jpg

http://image1.frappr.com/pix1/i/20061227/b/a/6/ba6b8583969bccf603e76d2f2f0d24e50_large.jpg

http://image2.frappr.com/pix2/i/20061227/a/7/2/a72b3465d0a0d65d01fe79b3e81860db0_large.jpg

http://image2.frappr.com/pix2/i/20061227/1/4/7/1478d007a16aacda57a80f2cb67765810_large.jpg
 
#48 ·
Hey Lamonster

I just did this modification last night in the garage. I did the mod in about an hour total. (I know, i'm slow, but i like to take my time) Your instructions were awesome and right on target. Thank you so much for posting how to do this. It is the second mod on the bike. The first being my grips..

cheers man! :a18: :clap2: :2cool:
 
#49 ·
LaMonster,
I'm considering this license plate mode for my M and was wondering if you had some pics using the DLP bracket with factory lights? I think using the factory turn signals (most likely cut down and with clear lenses) would be a pretty good style.

Thanks for the info!
 
#50 ·
57 Chevy Man said:
LaMonster,
I'm considering this license plate mode for my M and was wondering if you had some pics using the DLP bracket with factory lights? I think using the factory turn signals (most likely cut down and with clear lenses) would be a pretty good style.

Thanks for the info!
Several people have had problems using the factory signals on the DLP plate kit. Apparently they stock signals are too heavy, and will eventually cause the mounting tabs to crack or break off. Your best bet is to ditch the stock signals if you plan on doing this mod.
 
#51 ·
Medic1210 said:
Several people have had problems using the factory signals on the DLP plate kit. Apparently they stock signals are too heavy, and will eventually cause the mounting tabs to crack or break off. Your best bet is to ditch the stock signals if you plan on doing this mod.
After 6 months of riding, the tabs on my old DLP bracket started to crack with the OEM signals also. Ordered the thicker steel version (http://www.directlineparts.com/product.asp?pid=6432&str=290&ID=888959426), lopped an inch off with the Dremel and re-drilled the mounting holes to relocate the new bracket closer to the back end. This new DLP version will have no problems with the weight of the OEM signals. :bigthumbsup:

 
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