Reinstalling driveshaft to u-joint - Page 2
Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 31 to 60 of 81

Thread: Reinstalling driveshaft to u-joint

  1. #31
    Member straightshot's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    Spokane, Wa
    Posts
    29

    Default

    Spent several hours swearing and throwing things trying to get the rear diff back together, it was kicking my ass. This morning I did a search on this and found this how-to. It still took me a little while but I finally got it all back together the way it's supposed to be.
    This site never ceases to amaze me with all the technical knowledge in it and a genuine concern to help other 109 owners.
    A bigtime thank you from my neck of the woods, now I can sleep easy.

  2. Remove Advertisements
    M109Riders.com
    Advertisements
     

  3. #32
    Active Member NY Rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Queens, NY
    Posts
    49

    Default Driveshaft issues

    It would seem that I had the same problem as well, after installing a 10'' rim with a 280 rear tire. The tire was too large to fit, and I had no other choice, well I should say the mechanic that I was working with, but to take the driveshaft off to fit that size tire on. When he took it off, we had know idea that the u-bolt had shifted and created quite a mess and loss time. After looking through the forum for answers, we found out that it was a common problem. Once we try again, we will let you know how it went.

  4. #33
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Germantown, MD
    Posts
    6,402

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by NY Rider View Post
    It would seem that I had the same problem as well, after installing a 10'' rim with a 280 rear tire. The tire was too large to fit, and I had no other choice, well I should say the mechanic that I was working with, but to take the driveshaft off to fit that size tire on. When he took it off, we had know idea that the u-bolt had shifted and created quite a mess and loss time. After looking through the forum for answers, we found out that it was a common problem. Once we try again, we will let you know how it went.
    Take the secondary off. It has been posted a lot, and even a how to, so I apologize if you already know this.

    undo the speed sensor and pull out. Undo 4 bolts and gently remove the secondary. Put something down to catch the oil. Put the hub and shaft back in and put one or two of the acorn nuts on loosely to hold it. Then put the u-joint on the splines. Now, you can rotate the u-joint to an angle facing out. Hold the secondary and mate them up. It will take a few times but should go right in. Once there, undo the acorn nuts from the hub and have someone push towards you gently why you push against them backwards. You pushing backwards, will move it all back to give you room to put the secondary back on. Them pushing against you slightly will insure that the u-joint stays in the secondary drive. Once you get the secondary onto the 2 pins and pushed into place, have them put a couple nuts on to keep it together. When you put the secondary on, make sure the metal shims are aligned the right way. It is rather simple to do it this way.

  5. Remove Advertisements
    M109Riders.com
    Advertisements
     

  6. #34
    Active Member NY Rider's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Queens, NY
    Posts
    49

    Default Driveshaft

    Thanks to all that responded, especially BigpapaM109! It took some doing, but we got it to go in and everything is fine now, with the exception of re-installing the oil in the hub, but we will figure it out. Thanks again.

  7. #35
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    Omaha
    Posts
    418

    Default

    Trust me on this one. Get a buddy (or two) to help and this job is a cinch. It's way easier to recruit 2 guys and share a sixer as payment than to try it yourself.
    Next mods list: intakes, air ride, down & under brakes, galfers, braided lines, more chrome

  8. #36
    Member danfytsfyr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brampton
    Posts
    18

    Default Im kicking myself

    Went to youtube and saw a general video on the re + re of the back wheel .... I didn't know the wheel came off without removing the drive shaft and hub as an assembly... thanx for the infor i just spent 5 hours trying to get it back together but i had to walk away I'll have another kick at the cat tommorow....Now that i know the right way,...Thanx all.
    No matter how high and eagle may fly.... you can always break a window with a hammer!

  9. #37
    Very Active Member Duende01's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Clarksville, Tennessee
    Posts
    2,908

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by danfytsfyr View Post
    Went to youtube and saw a general video on the re + re of the back wheel .... I didn't know the wheel came off without removing the drive shaft and hub as an assembly... thanx for the infor i just spent 5 hours trying to get it back together but i had to walk away I'll have another kick at the cat tommorow....Now that i know the right way,...Thanx all.
    If you have a stock rim, there is no need to remove the drive shaft or hub assembly. Removal is only necessary (sometimes) when using aftermarket wheels that are wider than the stock wheels. If you removed the shaft, the easiest way to re-align it is by removing the secondary and putting it all back together.

    -2008 M109R "The Silver Bullet"
    -2013 HD Road King "The Orange Crush"
    -2015 HD Sportster Iron "TBD"

  10. #38
    Member danfytsfyr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brampton
    Posts
    18

    Default The wheel goes round and round

    Thanx for all the tips ... It went together in less than an hour....I wish the search function was better on this site....for knowlege would have save lots o cash in the swear jar... Cheers all.
    No matter how high and eagle may fly.... you can always break a window with a hammer!

  11. #39
    Very Active Member antmor69's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Rockdale, Texas
    Posts
    5,204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by danfytsfyr View Post
    Thanx for all the tips ... It went together in less than an hour....I wish the search function was better on this site....for knowlege would have save lots o cash in the swear jar... Cheers all.
    It works better if you search on google for m109 + whatever you are looking for and it will pull up threads from the site.

  12. #40
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    336

    Default

    I know but it's still goood

    Have just tried to push the drive shaft in from the rear but had to give up after swearing for an hour ....
    Got assistance of my girlfriend but without luck (spare me the sex jokes LoL )


    Began to loosen the secondary housing but became a little nervous when it started to drain of oil, but now I know that I was on the right track. Is it the usual engine oil leaking out, or what? If it is, then there's no problem because I'm going to change the engine oil anyway.


    KEEP RIDING HARD

  13. #41
    Member danfytsfyr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brampton
    Posts
    18

    Default Love your bike

    I dicked around with my for way to long before doing in right... by the way its alot easier then i thought it would be to take it apart... Good luck let me how you make.. this site also offers a free manual to down load..Cheers.
    No matter how high and eagle may fly.... you can always break a window with a hammer!

  14. #42
    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Montreal subburb
    Posts
    1,827

    Default LINK

    this is the best link to a thread that I have on this subject.
    ..
    https://www.m109riders.com/howto/ujoint/
    .
    Ah Crap , same link as in page one of this thread
    that is what happens when you use the "what's new "
    tab , and go straight to the last posts ,not reading first page.
    Last edited by Kazimodo; 04-07-2013 at 01:25 PM.
    Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .

  15. #43
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    336

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kazimodo View Post
    this is the best link to a thread that I have on this subject.
    ..
    https://www.m109riders.com/howto/ujoint/
    Very similar to this thread


    KEEP RIDING HARD

  16. #44
    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Montreal subburb
    Posts
    1,827

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snickaren View Post
    Very similar to this thread
    ..


    ..as I wrote , AH CRAP , same one **** happens .
    Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .

  17. #45
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    336

    Default

    No prob man But what kind of oil is it?


    KEEP RIDING HARD

  18. #46
    Member danfytsfyr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Brampton
    Posts
    18

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by snickaren View Post
    No prob man But what kind of oil is it?
    Uses engine oil for the front and gear oil for the back...you wont lose but maybe two ounces
    No matter how high and eagle may fly.... you can always break a window with a hammer!

  19. #47
    Very Active Member snickaren's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Location
    Sweden
    Posts
    336

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by danfytsfyr View Post
    Uses engine oil for the front and gear oil for the back...you wont lose but maybe two ounces
    Great, TNX man


    KEEP RIDING HARD

  20. #48
    Very Active Member btmade's Avatar
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Detroit, MI
    Posts
    145

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Lamonster View Post
    Print version https://www.m109riders.com/howto/ujoint/

    This has to be the hardest job to do if you try and stab it from the back of the swingarm. If you can do it that way you need to go buy a lotto ticket because you are one lucky guy. This is how I had to do it and so did a another member here.

    First thing you need to do is to pull off the left chrome side covers to access the Secondary Bevel Gears.

    Remove the speedometer sensor bolt and remove speedometer sensor and place out of the way.

    Remove the four bolts holding the Secondary Gear housing.
    You're going to lose a little oil on this so put something under the bike so you don't make a big mess.





    Now just pull the housing towards you and pull out the u-joint.




    Now you can bolt the Final Gear Case back up into the swingarm.

    Install the u-joint on to the driveshaft. I still had a hard time getting this on so there is no way I could have done it the other way.



    Now that you have the u-joint on the driveshaft you need to put the spline back into the gear housing and fish it all back in. What I did was loosen up the Final Gear Case so that it would give me some room to put the case back on. It's a tight fit so you need all the room you can get.



    That's pretty much it after that. All you need to do now is put all the bolts back in a tighten them up and you're done. That wasn't so bad was it?
    What's the torque spec on those four bolts I don't have my service man any more?
    BleuBerryr

  21. #49
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Clinton, MD
    Posts
    706

    Default

    Great step by step....took me about 1 minute to mesh.................. But (then)...I looked over my shoulder and what did I see The wheel sitting next to me on the floor....***I cussed like a $1 pirate filing bankruptcy**** the 2nd go took me a great 15 minutes.... all good, its done and buttoned up!!!!
    Live your own life....... everyone else has one!

    '07 Red with a "Natural Mystic Blowing Through The Air........."

  22. #50
    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Traveling America
    Posts
    27,355

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Les7311 View Post
    Great step by step....took me about 1 minute to mesh.................. But (then)...I looked over my shoulder and what did I see The wheel sitting next to me on the floor....***I cussed like a $1 pirate filing bankruptcy**** the 2nd go took me a great 15 minutes.... all good, its done and buttoned up!!!!

    Long time no see Les.
    Bang for the Buck Mods link CLICK HERE
    Coming to a city near you..

  23. #51
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Clinton, MD
    Posts
    706

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by rynosback View Post
    Long time no see Les.
    RYANNNNNNN!!!!! yes sir, been a great minute. Hope you and the family are in the "most excellent". Am still here, and hardly on the site. Hope we cross path one day....Best!!
    Live your own life....... everyone else has one!

    '07 Red with a "Natural Mystic Blowing Through The Air........."

  24. #52
    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Montreal subburb
    Posts
    1,827

    Default any opinions on 2 diff. ways

    Yeah old thread I know....

    Time to remove the rear wheel
    and slide in th 10 inch Rim with 280 in there .
    .

    2 ways to go = remove stock exhaust
    or remove hub and mess with secondary
    .

    wondering if I decide with a coin toss..
    or if anybody has done both ways ,and prefers one
    to the other .
    Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .

  25. #53
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Germantown, MD
    Posts
    6,402

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kazimodo View Post
    Yeah old thread I know....

    Time to remove the rear wheel
    and slide in th 10 inch Rim with 280 in there .
    .

    2 ways to go = remove stock exhaust
    or remove hub and mess with secondary
    .

    wondering if I decide with a coin toss..
    or if anybody has done both ways ,and prefers one
    to the other .
    I personally like removing the hub and secondary just so there is no rim scratching risk. But, it still is a pain getting the secondary and hub mated up. You need a second set of hands. Once you get the secondary in the ujoint mated, you have to have them slowly pull the hub backwards while you slide the secondary in so they don't come apart. Basically you push, they provide resistance while allowing it to move backwards until you get the secondary to pop in. I just did one a few nights ago and it usually is a 10 minute process. Secondary has 4 bolts, torque is 19 ft/lb. Hub bolts are 29 ft lbs. You also have to remove the speed sensor and there are 2 metal shims on the secondary so make sure you orient them right when putting back together. They can only go one way.

  26. #54
    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Montreal subburb
    Posts
    1,827

    Default

    Thanks a lot Harris
    scratching the stock exhaust or cratching the rim
    all the risks ... decisions , decisions ,
    also thanks for torque specs
    I have the manual , but it is always nice to start with
    as much info as possible.
    couple of weeks before I attack that project anyways ,
    no rush , cold season here.
    Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .

  27. #55
    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Montreal subburb
    Posts
    1,827

    Default

    P.S.
    in post 17 , Seadog goes in with a clothes hanger to hold the U joint
    before sliding the shaft in , if I read correctly people are saying ,
    "bad system" because U joint moves out of its place in secondary, and
    when reassembling it causes troubles .
    Was wondering if I have a look in there ""before ""taking the hub off,
    and make a mark of some sort ,and try to help it not to move while
    taking off Hub , this way ,when reassembling ,I just
    make sure the U joint has not moved , if it moved , remove secondary
    bif if it didn't ; attempt a stab with Seadog's procedure.
    I will also try that , and report back in this here thread .
    Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .

  28. #56
    Very Active Member Poseidon's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2014
    Location
    Chesterfield, VA
    Posts
    4,926

    Default

    There is always this option.


  29. #57
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Fergus, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    3,349

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Poseidon View Post
    There is always this option.
    Absolutely, but as far as I can see, it works only with shorter aftermarket exhaust,
    or OEM exhaust removed...
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  30. #58
    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Montreal subburb
    Posts
    1,827

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    Absolutely, but as far as I can see, it works only with shorter aftermarket exhaust,
    or OEM exhaust removed...
    .
    EXACTLY !

    That is why we have to choose , take off hub , or take off exhaust .
    Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .

  31. #59
    Very Active Member
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Germantown, MD
    Posts
    6,402

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kazimodo View Post
    P.S.
    in post 17 , Seadog goes in with a clothes hanger to hold the U joint
    before sliding the shaft in , if I read correctly people are saying ,
    "bad system" because U joint moves out of its place in secondary, and
    when reassembling it causes troubles .
    Was wondering if I have a look in there ""before ""taking the hub off,
    and make a mark of some sort ,and try to help it not to move while
    taking off Hub , this way ,when reassembling ,I just
    make sure the U joint has not moved , if it moved , remove secondary
    bif if it didn't ; attempt a stab with Seadog's procedure.
    I will also try that , and report back in this here thread .
    You can definitely try the stab procedure. You also can use a coat hanger just to hold up the ujoint level when putting it in. The problem is that if the splines are not dead on....you will have issues. You can also turn the hub gear where it mates to the rim to try and turn the ujoint a little at a time. For the coat hanger, you put that in between the secondary and the swingarm into that little gap. For me, I have tried that way with no luck. So, we basically do the way I said earlier. I put the rim in the swing arm, and put cadrboard against it so when you are playing with the hub there is no way the rib can tip over or bang into the hub. A little caution goes a long way. lol

  32. #60
    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Montreal subburb
    Posts
    1,827

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by BigpapaM109 View Post
    For me, I have tried that way with no luck. . lol
    .
    figured I had something ......guess not ,,,,,,I'll be ready to remove secondary.
    Last edited by Kazimodo; 02-21-2016 at 11:00 AM.
    Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •