Fuel pump not priming
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Thread: Fuel pump not priming

  1. #1
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    Default Fuel pump not priming

    The bike was running fine. I had it on a lift when I started it up. When switched tanks it stopped priming. The relay is not clicking on the bike, but when I tested the relay off the bike I heard it click. It is reading the right ohms. The bike is not getting fuel but it turns over like it wants to start. I don't have the Fi light on, speedo works, all lights work, and all spark plugs are brand new. It seems like the red kill switch on the handlebars isn't working? I'm finding it very hard to believe that it is the fuel pump because I can't even get a clicking sound. It is not the kickstand switch. I didn't even ride the bike, but just had it running on the lift. Like I said when switched tanks it wouldn't start. Everything is plugged in. I do have the "CHEC" on the speedo. I checked every fuse and they are good. The battery is reading 11.74. How do you check the red killswitch to make sure it is sending power to the relay?Click image for larger version. 

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    The bike would not turn over if the kill switch was the problem.
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    Radio Active Member Zoom's Avatar
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    Check the brown connector plug under the tank, where the pump wiring plugs in. Could be you shoved a pin out when plugging the new tank back in. It's happened to more than one on here.



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    Quote Originally Posted by Zoom View Post
    Check the brown connector plug under the tank, where the pump wiring plugs in. Could be you shoved a pin out when plugging the new tank back in. It's happened to more than one on here.
    https://i.postimg.cc/WbjWWmrh/Brown-...r-the-tank.jpg

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    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Zoom View Post
    Check the brown connector plug under the tank, where the pump wiring plugs in. Could be you shoved a pin out when plugging the new tank back in. It's happened to more than one on here.
    https://i.postimg.cc/WbjWWmrh/Brown-...r-the-tank.jpg



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    The brown connector looks solid to me. I still have the tank lifted up with the brown connector plugged in. Which exact wire goes to the fuel pump on the connector? I just charged the battery, but I don't think that is the problem? I haven't tried the fully charged battery yet, but I'm thinking there is something faulty with the relay. Maybe a fully charged battery will make the relay click?

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    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdirving View Post
    The brown connector looks solid to me. I still have the tank lifted up with the brown connector plugged in. Which exact wire goes to the fuel pump on the connector? I just charged the battery, but I don't think that is the problem? I haven't tried the fully charged battery yet, but I'm thinking there is something faulty with the relay. Maybe a fully charged battery will make the relay click?
    Make sure that (even the connector is solid) there are not any of the wires pushed
    out from the side where wires enter the connector. Both halves of the connector,
    male and female.

    Picture is courtesy of Kazimodo, member here.
    Last edited by thevili; 2 Weeks Ago at 01:48 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jdirving View Post
    The brown connector looks solid to me. I still have the tank lifted up with the brown connector plugged in. Which exact wire goes to the fuel pump on the connector? I just charged the battery, but I don't think that is the problem? I haven't tried the fully charged battery yet, but I'm thinking there is something faulty with the relay. Maybe a fully charged battery will make the relay click?
    Make sure that (even the connector is solid) there are not any of the wires pushed
    out from the side where wires enter the connector. Both halves of the connector,
    male and female.

    Picture is courtesy of Kazimodo, member here.
    I already understood to check the wires and none are loose.

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    Is the oem relay better that the cheaper one on Ebay?

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    If the battery is strong enough to turn the bike over it has enough juice to pull in a small relay coil, so chances are its not your battery.

    Have you confirmed that you are not getting voltage on the yellow wire with red tracer on the brown connector under the tank before you switch out the relay.

    If you are getting voltage on the line side of connector then the relay is working fine.

    Then check to see if you are getting voltage on the pump side of the brown connector. If you have voltage on one side and not the other then you know its a problem within the electrical connector.

    Before performing this test I would remove the fuel line from the tank, then run a piece of hose from the tank barb into a bucket.
    This way you know there is no pressure on the line and the pump should be on the entire time. The pump circuit will open when the pressure cut out is reached.

    I am pretty sure if the fuel line is disconnected from the tank with an open hose into a bucket the pump should stay on as long as the key and kill switch are on. But if you do not get voltage you may want to have someone turn the bike over while you check voltage on each side of the connector just to be sure.

    If you find you do not have voltage on either side of the connector on the yellow wire with red tracer, then pull a spark plug and confirm you are getting spark. If you are also not getting spark this will lead us to look in a different direction.

    A service manual (wiring diagram) and test light will help you greatly to troubleshoot this issue.
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    Last edited by Stalker; 2 Weeks Ago at 09:46 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stalker View Post
    If the battery is strong enough to turn the bike over it has enough juice to pull in a small relay coil, so chances are its not your battery.

    Have you confirmed that you are not getting voltage on the yellow wire with red tracer on the brown connector under the tank before you switch out the relay.

    If you are getting voltage on the line side of connector then the relay is working fine.

    Then check to see if you are getting voltage on the pump side of the brown connector. If you have voltage on one side and not the other then you know its a problem within the electrical connector.

    Before performing this test I would remove the fuel line from the tank, then run a piece of hose from the tank barb into a bucket.
    This way you know there is no pressure on the line and the pump should be on the entire time. The pump circuit will open when the pressure cut out is reached.

    I am pretty sure if the fuel line is disconnected from the tank with an open hose into a bucket the pump should stay on as long as the key and kill switch are on. But if you do not get voltage you may want to have someone turn the bike over while you check voltage on each side of the connector just to be sure.

    If you find you do not have voltage on either side of the connector on the yellow wire with red tracer, then pull a spark plug and confirm you are getting spark. If you are also not getting spark this will lead us to look in a different direction.

    A service manual (wiring diagram) and test light will help you greatly to troubleshoot this issue.
    It isn't the battery because I tried it fully charged. I haven't checked the yellow red wire yet, but I'm pretty sure it won't light up when I test it. I still think it is the relay, but it was clicking when I tested it off the bike. The coil part of the relay isn't getting any juice when on the bike. I ordered the relay but I'm still waiting for it to come. I'll figure out something tomorrow after I test the yellow red wire.

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    Keep us updated



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    After testing the yellow wire with red tracer, it isn't getting power just like I figured. I ran a jumper wire from the battery positive straight to the yellow wire with red tracer with brown connector plugged in, and I could hear the fuel pump priming. My question is, could a bad relay stop the yellow wire with the red tracer from seeing power? Anyone have any idea why that wire isn't seeing power? All of the fuses are lighting up with the test light.

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    [QUOTE=jdirving;4006620]After testing the yellow wire with red tracer, it isn't getting power just like I figured. I ran a jumper wire from the battery positive straight to the yellow wire with red tracer with brown connector plugged in, and I could hear the fuel pump priming. My question is, could a bad relay stop the yellow wire with the red tracer from seeing power? Anyone have any idea why that wire isn't seeing power? All of the fuses are lighting up with the test light.[/QUOTE


    So now check to see if the relay coil circuit is getting voltage when the fuel pump is called.

    The yellow wire with black tracer is 12v+ and the orange wire with white tracer is 12v- for the fuel pump relay coil.

    Both of the 12v+ and 12v- conductors to the fuel pump relay coil can be opened by the ECU so you have to confirm you have voltage across these two wires.

    Did you ever check to see if you are getting spark to your plugs?
    The fuel pump relay and and ignition coils share a common 12v- which can also be opened by the ECU as I mentioned above.
    If you do not have spark then your problem could the tip over sensor or the ECU can also open this circuit if there is a problem with 2 injector or ignition circuits.
    Knowing if you also have spark or not will help you diagnose this problem better.

    If you have not already, take a look at the wiring diagram for these circuits and logically deducing the cause of this problem will become clearer for you.
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    Spark isn't the problem. The fuel pump relay isn't receiving a signal to the yellow red wire. Something is cutting off power to the pump. Right now it seems like it could be the ecu? I have a new fuel pump relay but didn't try it because the old one tested good.

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    I just tested the kickstand and clutch sensor. The clutch read 0 when pulled in, but the kickstand read 66.5 - 66.7 with kickstand in up position. That means the kickstand sensor is bad, right?

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    The kickstand switch has a diode in it, so it won't read 0 ohms when closed. If you hook a meter to it and operate the kickstand switch and the reading varies, the switch is good.

    I was having a problem with mine not starting and tried testing the kickstand switch and found this out. Turned out to be the clutch switch, which is just an open/closed switch. Mine would recycle as soon as I hit the starter button, then I noticed if I let the clutch out just a little and hit the button it would start. Took the switch apart and cleaned the contacts and it works fine now. Not much you can do to clean the kickstand switch as the contacts and diode are potted in epoxy. If you want to make sure it's not the kickstand switch, short the two terminals in the connector and see if it works.



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    Quote Originally Posted by jdirving View Post
    I just tested the kickstand and clutch sensor. The clutch read 0 when pulled in, but the kickstand read 66.5 - 66.7 with kickstand in up position. That means the kickstand sensor is bad, right?

    Just like the kill switch you asked about above, the side stand switch is in series with the starter relay.
    You previously said the bike will turn over but will not start, so if that is the case the side stand switch and all other components that are in series with the starter relay coil are working fine and cannot be responsible for the issue you are having.
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdirving View Post
    Spark isn't the problem. The fuel pump relay isn't receiving a signal to the yellow red wire. Something is cutting off power to the pump. Right now it seems like it could be the ecu?
    I have a pretty good grasp on the situation I assure you and understand fully that your fuel pump relay is not activating.

    Have a look at the attachment below and hopefully a light bulb will come on and you will will see how knowing if you also have spark is good troubleshooting information.

    This may not end up being your issue but determining if you have spark can either rule it out or help point you in the correct direction.
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    Last edited by Stalker; 1 Week Ago at 12:13 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stalker View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jdirving View Post
    I just tested the kickstand and clutch sensor. The clutch read 0 when pulled in, but the kickstand read 66.5 - 66.7 with kickstand in up position. That means the kickstand sensor is bad, right?

    Just like the kill switch you asked about above, the side stand switch is in series with the starter relay.
    You previously said the bike will turn over but will not start, so if that is the case the side stand switch and all other components that are in series with the starter relay coil are working fine and cannot be responsible for the issue you are having.
    I'm starting to suspect the ecu. I tried bypassing the kickstand switch, but it didn't work. Something is preventing power from getting to the yellow wire with the red tracer. Maybe it is the diode on the ignition not supplying 9 volts?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stalker View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by jdirving View Post
    Spark isn't the problem. The fuel pump relay isn't receiving a signal to the yellow red wire. Something is cutting off power to the pump. Right now it seems like it could be the ecu?
    I have a pretty good grasp on the situation I assure you and understand fully that your fuel pump relay is not activating.

    Have a look at the attachment below and hopefully a light bulb will come on and you will will see how knowing if you also have spark is good troubleshooting information.

    This may not end up being your issue but determining if you have spark can either rule it out or help point you in the correct direction.
    I've already looked at the tos sensor. I didn't test it but I unplugged it, plugged it back in and made sure the arrow was pointing up. I will give it another look.

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    If you check for spark and don't have any then it's the tip over sensor. The bike wouldn't turn over if it was any of the other ones. Have you tried putting it in dealer mode or checked for codes?

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    Quote Originally Posted by UVATom View Post
    If you check for spark and don't have any then it's the tip over sensor. The bike wouldn't turn over if it was any of the other ones. Have you tried putting it in dealer mode or checked for codes?
    No. I had a mechanic that was supposed to come and look at it, but he claims that he is booked until the 30th of this month.

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    The service manual and a few threads on here will show you how.

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    I tried the paperclip thing and nothing happened. It just says CHEC on the speedo. It doesn't pull up any codes, but I never had the Fi light if that has anything to do with it?

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    If you didn't have an FI light on when you checked it, it usually shows 00 as the code. But in any case, if there's no light there won't be a code.



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    Still no luck. I even tried another ecu. I can't get a mechanic to come check it out. Some of them won't even return my calls. I guess they hate money? The only thing left is the flasher relay, kickstand switch, tip over sensor, and all of them seem to be working. I can almost guarantee replacing these relays won't help at all. I already replaced the starter relay and the fuel pump relay and it did nothing.

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    Call the dealer and arrange for them to come and pick up the bike . It would cost you a little bit , but you would finally solve the problem whatever it is once they hook the bike to their computer and see what is causing it .
    After all your tries and realizing that nothing have worked , that is what I would do .
    Last edited by josey088; 3 Days Ago at 05:50 AM.

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