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Not sure what I did - shock adjustment

1K views 8 replies 7 participants last post by  kodiakrider 
#1 · (Edited)
I weigh 155 lbs and when I hit imperfections in the road the 109R knocks me around for example small humps in the pavement act like speed bumps and literally set me up out of my seat. Then there are the man hole covers that set 1 to 2 inches below the street - those should be fixed - kidneys outta my head.

I have read about the preload but never messed with it as some of the posts seem to contradict one another. On the one hand many claim dialing down softened the ride but may lead to wallowing then on the other hand some posters claim it only serves to raise or lower the bike and has no impact on the smoothness of the ride - who knows.

Well I can't take it any longer and I finally decided to do something; still reading the posts left me with a whiskey tango foxtrot with respect to the setting # on the shock. This afternoon, I removed the skid plate, from the right side of the bike head facing to the front I look at the shock. I could see the #s but have no idea what is what. So, with the spanning wrench and a rubber mallet I clicked the shock to the left as far as it would go. As best I can tell #4 is facing down - all I can really say is that I cannot click the preload anymore to the left. Not sure it is either better or worse but when I push down on the back it seems to have more rebound. We will see, can any tell me from the description above if I lessened the preload or increased the preload, I think I lessened it.
 
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#2 ·
You stated you clicked the adjustment mechanism all the way to the left. Does that mean you clicked/turned it clockwise or counterclockwise? If my memory serves me right, turning or clicking the adjustment mechanism clockwise will increase dampening and lessen the stiffness. I made that same adjustment on my 07’ model back around 2009-2010, and as far as I can remember, the clockwise adjustment provides for increased dampening and less stiffness. For sure, you’ll be able to tell, once you get the bike out on the road for even a short 2-3 mile test ride.
 
#3 ·
If you are reducing the preload on the shock (i.e.; going from 4 to 1, the adjuster is easier to turn because it is going down a ramp and relaxing the spring. Going up is harder as the adjustment pin must climb the ramp and compress the spring. Changing the preload doesn't change the damping, it just changes the initial amount of tension the spring puts on the shock. Going down does lower the bike slightly. Preload is mostly used to adjust to the weight of the rider to give the bike the correct loaded ride height.

If you can see a #4 facing down, you have it set on #1, or the softest setting. It does make it absorb bumps better, and I've never noticed any wallowing.

Just for reference:
#7 facing down is #4, the factory setting.
#6 facing down is #3.
#5 facing down is #2.
#4 facing down is #1.
 
#9 ·
Yes, it is better



Cold weather set in before I could get the 9 out to test the ride. But, we had some warm days a few weeks back and I was able to get out. The ride is much smoother than before so it does make a difference. It did lower the bike a little as well - some posters said that would happen. Did not seem to affect the handling of the bike.

Best,
Glenn
 
#8 ·
You may want to change the rear shock with an aftermarket one, which offers also hydraulic rebound control.
I put a Wilbers one on mine and it changed the bike handling completely... More comfort and holding the line much better ✌✌✌
 
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