My suggestion : Just take a rain check on your trip , order the kit and have it installed , along with the 2" risers . You will have all the time in the world to make the trip after that .
The sooner you order it , the sooner you will get it .
Fitting 2" risers with standard cables
I just fitted the 2" risers to my bike and it is possible with standard cables and hydraulic brake hoses. The clutch works fine with re-routing (as I'll explain below) but the throttle doesn't look as pretty as it would with 2" extended cables as I had to add a cable tie to the riser to keep it off the tank, however it does work. To stop the throttle sticking on right lock I simply rerouted it from out of the silly coat-hanger and rubber-band to give it more length. However, if you want it to look nice, buy the 2" or 3" longer throttle cables. Maybe the C109R throttle cables are longer as well if the clutch is? That's something I'll be looking into as ordering longer cables in Australia is expensive.
Clutch Cable Re-route
Firstly, I removed the headlight and radiator shroud.
To reroute the clutch cable, undo the 10mm nut and bolt at the lever end. Wind the cable adjuster right into the lever housing, stopping when the slot in the nut and cylinder line up. Pull the lever out about 120 degrees and the cable will come out. You can then undo the ferule on the end of the cable from the lever and remove the cable.
Lie under the front of the bike on the left-hand side and pull the clutch cable all the way down under the motor. Then feed it back up on the inside of the frame but outside the engine mount bolts.
Feed it back up to the headlight area and back to the clutch lever. Hook the lever on to the ferrule, hold the lever out at 120 degrees again (the end is pointed towards the headlight) and place the narrow part of the lever back in the slot in the housing where it bolts in. Pull it back around to the grip and it will just pop back in allowing you to put the bolt and nut back in.
The throttle cables are a little bit harder but once you learn the tricks, they are not too bad. You can do it yourself with a basic toolkit.
First you have to remove the seat, undo the plastic side-covers on either side of the seat (they each have an allen bolt and then push/pull pins into rubber ferrules) and then remove the tank so you can get to the cables on the throttle body on the motor. You undo the rear 12 mm tank bolt, lift the tank and place it on a couple of blocks of wood to hold it up. under the tank is a brown plug you have to squeeze to undo and a fuel line under the tank. This took me a couple of goes, you have to squeeze both sides of the blue tab and then it will slide off. The fitting on the tank obviously has a valve in it as only a few drops come out of the line.
You then lift the tank at the back and pull it backwards exposing a multi-pin plug at the front. To pull this one apart, you lift the tab (rather than squeeze it) and just pull it apart. Now you can take the tank off and put it as-side. You could probably leave it in place lifted up but I prefer to lift it out of the way rather than damage it.
Removing the Throttle cables
I watched a couple of you tube videos and read instructions on this site but they all glossed over the actual steps so here they are in detail.
I found no matter how hard I tried, I couldn't get the cables off at the Throttle grip. There was just not enough slack even though I backed off the adjuster under the throttle completely and my bike had 30,000km on it.
Between the two cylinders you will see a throttle body (looks like a carby but no fuel or jets in this). In the middle on the side of this is a disc with a push and pull cable and a nut in the centre. Do not remove this nut!
You only need to undo the top cable. Take a 10 mm spanner and wind the top fitting bolt on the left up about 5 turns so the fitting winds out towards the front of the bike. You now should be able to pull the cable towards the back of the bike and slide the nut out of the two prongs, releasing the cable. You don't need to remove it completely. This will give you the slack you need for the next bit.
Now undo the three JIS screws (no they are not Phillips on Japanese motorcycles and cars - but that's another story) under the throttle. Lift the top cover off and turn it 90 degrees to show the cables.
Wind the lock-nut and adjuster in towards the right-angle fitting to loosen the cable as much as possible. Make sure the bottom section is still locked into the handlebars and can't rotate then pull the right angle fittings down a bit and push them up into the housing. This will loosen the cables a bit more.
Twist the grip like you are accelerating and use a small pic or screw driver to lift the cable and remove the ferule from the hole. Remove the second cable and your throttle cables are loose.
Installation is just a reverse of these steps.
This is how I ran my standard cables with 2" risers. It's not pretty but doesn't hit the tank but I'll chase some longer cables down the track. I just want to get the beast back on the road so I can ride it too work and go for a blast next weekend with the boys.
Last edited by edz_M109r; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:25 AM.
66 Mustang Convertible; DR650
As per the installation of the standard length "cables" following the install of 2" risers , it can be done but it would look crappy (well, to me at least) .
I never said it cut not be done .
The replacement of cables with extra long ones is your choice since it is your bike and I would not criticize someone else`s choice on their own bike ... nor do I care either .
The op was asking some questions and I was simply answering them based on my own experience for that job and I gave some suggestions with the absolute best intentions .
Have a wonderful day
Last edited by josey088; 2 Weeks Ago at 03:46 PM.
I'll post pictures once I've got it done.
I appreciate all your guys' help.