Fried new clutch after only 14K miles??
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Thread: Fried new clutch after only 14K miles??

  1. #1
    Very Active Member Dommy's Avatar
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    Question Fried new clutch after only 14K miles??

    Hi all.

    It's long since I rode my '9 from last time (2007 model with 55K miles), but now I'm planning to get back to it pretty soon, after some important fix .
    I brought her to my mechanic in NOV-2019 due to a weird "zzzzzz" noise coming apparently from next to my left feet when using the bike aggressively on twisty mountain roads ... next a couple of weeks later I crashed with my Kawasaki Versys 1000, had the left hand's bones misaligned and fractured my left big toe .

    Now I'm fine again and could ride, unfortunately the lockdown due to the coronavirus is still preventing me from doing it.
    The mechanic is working on my '9 in these days to understand what could be the reason of that weird noise, which seemed as caused by two metallic surfaces rubbing on each other.

    What he found explains well the problem, as you can see in the pics of the clutch sleeve hub and the drive plate No. 2. What is even more weird to me is that the previous mechanic changed the plates only 14K miles ago (I had plates slipping upon revving above 4000 rpm in all gears), so I really do not understand now what he really changed. All the plates or only a few?? Click image for larger version. 

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    Perhaps he only changed some of the plates and not the drive plate No. 2? I do not remember now.

    For information I've attached a pic of also the other plates and the primary driven gear assembly: Click image for larger version. 

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    Not only the drive plate No. 2 is fried, also the other plates appear quite worn (we're going to measure the thickness).
    The gear assembly was quite dirt inside (in the pic is after it was cleaned).
    What surprised the mechanic is that the gear assembly appears very little worn (where the driven plates' claws seat in), considered the high bike mileage.

    I would like also to change the sleeve hub, because the springs are very loose and rattle a lot. It should cost around 300 Euro, but at least I will get the hub with the new design and reduce the rattle from the stock hub Click image for larger version. 

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    Have you ever seen such a fried plate?

    Thanks, Domenico.
    Woe to You Oh Earth and Sea for the Devil sends the beast with wrath because he knows the time is short Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the beast for it is a human number its number is M109R.

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  3. #2
    Super Moderator HyperPete's Avatar
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    Hi Domenico,

    Sorry to hear about your recent bad luck - both the crash, and the clutch issue.
    I wonder if the clutch might have been mis-adjusted.

    How much free-play do you have at the lever?
    Also, if the motor mounts are worn, the motor moves and changes the clutch adjustment. At 55K miles (OR KM) if you have not replaced the motor mounts, I can guarantee that they are worn badly, (mostly the front.)

    Also, have you done the "push-pin mod" yet? If not, now is the time to do it to get more oil to the clutch.
    Last edited by HyperPete; 05-02-2020 at 07:22 PM.

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  4. #3
    Very Active Member futurR's Avatar
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    Dommy, well, you have an issue.
    1. Either the plates were not put in correctly previously or it was not adjusted correctly.
    2. Those do not look like OEM plates. That can be an issue do to the aftermarket plates do not hold up well in these bikes--- which could be part of the issue.
    I am almost always working on a bike. If you have questions and need an answer quickly, just call me. 317-507-0940. Always up late. There will be time for sleep when I am dead!

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  6. #4
    Very Active Member Dommy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by HyperPete View Post
    Hi Domenico,

    Sorry to hear about your recent bad luck - both the crash, and the clutch issue.
    I wonder if the clutch might have been mis-adjusted.

    How much free-play do you have at the lever?
    Also, if the motor mounts are worn, the motor moves and changes the clutch adjustment. At 55K miles (OR KM) if you have not replaced the motor mounts, I can guarantee that they are worn badly, (mostly the front.)

    Also, have you done the "push-pin mod" yet? If not, now is the time to do it to get more oil to the clutch.
    Thanks HyperPete.

    The mileage is in miles - my bike is a Canadian/US model imported first in Germany and then sold in Northern Italy.
    Indeed the tachometer is both in MPH and Km/h.

    I did the "push-pin" mode in 2013 at 8.5K miles (before this I had some few clutch shudder events).
    I installed a hydro-clutch in 2013 (I broke a cable before), which I think is self-adjusting - and it worked always very well.
    I also replaced all the 6 motor mounts in 2018 at 45K miles.

    I lean to think what Matt offered below, those plates are probably not OEM (and this would be consistent with the poor ethic approach used by the previous mechanic I went to ), although I think I payed for a OEM clutch kit??
    Woe to You Oh Earth and Sea for the Devil sends the beast with wrath because he knows the time is short Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the beast for it is a human number its number is M109R.

  7. #5
    Very Active Member Dommy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by futurR View Post
    Dommy, well, you have an issue.
    1. Either the plates were not put in correctly previously or it was not adjusted correctly.
    2. Those do not look like OEM plates. That can be an issue do to the aftermarket plates do not hold up well in these bikes--- which could be part of the issue.
    Thanks Matt.
    I agree with you, we will compare those plates with an original Suzuki clutch kit when we get it. I'm really curious ...
    Woe to You Oh Earth and Sea for the Devil sends the beast with wrath because he knows the time is short Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the beast for it is a human number its number is M109R.

  8. #6
    Very Active Member Dommy's Avatar
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    Hi all.

    So finally my mechanic installed the new clutch kit.
    It's a 2019 kit, so it should include all the improvement brought by Suzuki to the older M109R models (mine is a 2007), also the clutch sleeve hub assembly with 1 out of the 5 springs held in a fixed position.

    Indeed you hear that at idle the clutch is much less noisy.

    The problem is that after 500 Km of test ride I have now clutch slippage when accelerating quite hard and the clutch engages when the lever clutch is almost completely released.
    So I think that it must be linked to the hydro clutch actuator (I have hydro clutch), that is not properly set in its regulation.

    I was thinking to regulate it myself, instead of getting the bike back to the mechanic.
    Do you know if this is a simple fix? I've attached a pic of the actuator.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Woe to You Oh Earth and Sea for the Devil sends the beast with wrath because he knows the time is short Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the beast for it is a human number its number is M109R.

  9. #7
    Very Active Member Dommy's Avatar
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    Ok, yesterday I played around the slave cylinder (pic above) and pushed it a little upwards, by first loosening the upper nut. I did this to try to have the cylinder's rod pushing a little more up the the clutch horizontal arm.

    Next I started the engine and saw that now the clutch engages when the clutch lever is only half released (before it engaged when the lever was nearly all released). I hope that this has fixed the clutch slipping, I will test the bike on road tomorrow and give feedback.

    Oh, yes, as Matt suggested further up in this thread, the clutch plates were not Suzuki OEM parts (I had confirmation of this when I received the new parts from Suzuki) - the previous mechanic had installed not original parts on my bike without informing me and asked the same price for OEM parts ... but this is another story.

    Cheers.
    Last edited by Dommy; 2 Weeks Ago at 10:50 AM.
    Woe to You Oh Earth and Sea for the Devil sends the beast with wrath because he knows the time is short Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the beast for it is a human number its number is M109R.

  10. #8
    Very Active Member Dommy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dommy View Post
    Ok, yesterday I played around the slave cylinder (pic above) and pushed it a little upwards, by first loosening the upper nut. I did this to try to have the cylinder's rod pushing a little more up the the clutch horizontal arm.

    Next I started the engine and saw that now the clutch engages when the clutch lever is only half released (before it engaged when the lever was nearly all released). I hope that this has fixed the clutch slipping, I will test the bike on road tomorrow and give feedback.
    Ok, I've tested the bike after the slave cylinder calibration and there's no more clutch slippage
    Woe to You Oh Earth and Sea for the Devil sends the beast with wrath because he knows the time is short Let him who hath understanding reckon the number of the beast for it is a human number its number is M109R.

  11. #9
    Very Active Member Frotosride's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dommy View Post
    Oh, yes, as Matt suggested further up in this thread, the clutch plates were not Suzuki OEM parts (I had confirmation of this when I received the new parts from Suzuki) - the previous mechanic had installed not original parts on my bike without informing me and asked the same price for OEM parts ... but this is another story.
    Trust...this is why I do all of my own work on everything I own from a weed eater to wiring my house. Good you got to the bottom of that issue and thankfully the plates didn't fracture and cause more damage.


    Quote Originally Posted by Dommy View Post
    Ok, I've tested the bike after the slave cylinder calibration and there's no more clutch slippage
    This is good to hear! Glad you are back to enjoying that beast!
    "Beat it like a red-headed Ford":
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