Let’s talk fuse blocks!
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Thread: Let’s talk fuse blocks!

  1. #1
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    For those that have added a fuse block, what have you used? I saw a few posts with the fuzeblocks FZ-1. I like it, but it says it’s only for up to 10amp fuses. That’s not going to work for my air ride or my hid light. I want something I can run all of my accessories to. Air ride, light, led lights, might add wires for a trickle charger and usb.

    This is what corona virus lock down has done for me. Has me looking for projects.

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    Very Active Member NoSetFine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    For those that have added a fuse block, what have you used? I saw a few posts with the fuzeblocks FZ-1. I like it, but it says it’s only for up to 10amp fuses. That’s not going to work for my air ride or my hid light. I want something I can run all of my accessories to. Air ride, light, led lights, might add wires for a trickle charger and usb.

    This is what corona virus lock down has done for me. Has me looking for projects.
    Hey Bigpapa - your HID, even at 55W is only drawing ~5 Amps at 12V.
    The calculation for DC Amps is "Watts divided by Volts" (I=PųE).
    So if your HID is 55W at 12V, then 55W ų 12V = 4.6 Amps.
    Some quick Googling suggests, even at the initial ballast ignition draw, you are looking at about 6.5Amps per bulb peak.
    I watched a guy test his fogs on a car at 14Amps (for 2 lights), so that number seems about right.

    So a 10A fuse should be perfect? Have you seen it pull more than 10A on a test?
    NSF


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    That’s good to know. I have not tested anything as far as what it draws. I was just assuming. I know my air ride blows a fuse when I air it up if I hold the button past full air. Meaning if I hold it for a second or two too long....pop. I want to say that’s a 15amp fuse, I gotta check. Ideally I would like a breaker for the air so i don’t have to keep replacing fuses when it happens.

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    What I do like about the FZ-1 is the ability to wire to hot and switched off the block. And I’m assuming the 30 amp breaker is for the combined attached accessories, not any one in particular. Not sure how exactly that works

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    What I do like about the FZ-1 is the ability to wire to hot and switched off the block. And I’m assuming the 30 amp breaker is for the combined attached accessories, not any one in particular. Not sure how exactly that works
    Just looking at the specs - Yes the 30A fuse feeding to the FZ-1 would be to protect the *entire* combined load on the FZ-1 at any one time, with each individual device rated to a max of 10A. Also, their relay is only rated to 30A, so the fuse also protects the relay contacts from being damaged as well.

    The FZ-1 is actually a cleverly simple device. You attach a chosen "switched" and "constant" power source to the board, then you just put the fuse on one side for constant power or the other side for switched power, for each device you want to add to it. Technically, if you have multiple small devices with combined maximum draw under 10A, you could add multiple items to a single fuse on the FZ-1 to simplify your wiring.

    Basically, the way it works is the 30A feed runs everything on the board. The tiny 3A fused "switched" feed just trips the relay on the board when it senses switched power from the bike - this is a very low draw, usually under 200mA for most automotive relays. So actually, everything is running off that "constant" power 30A line... but the relay turns on and off when triggered to provide "switched" power.


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    So going back to the air for a minute.....if that’s running off of a 15 amp or higher, it’s not going to work with that correct?

    Air ride- 15 amp
    Led- 10 amp
    Led light - 10 amp

    If I add a trickle charger that will probably go right to the battery

    That’s what I’m working with

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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    So going back to the air for a minute.....if thatís running off of a 15 amp or higher, itís not going to work with that correct?

    Air ride- 15 amp
    Led- 10 amp
    Led light - 10 amp

    If I add a trickle charger that will probably go right to the battery

    Thatís what Iím working with
    I have a thread here with pics about my FZ1. I had a Arnott air ride, HID, and Stebel horn in the headlight bucket and I never had any issues. Still have the FZ1 but not the air ride anymore.

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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    Perfect, I’m going to find your post. Why no air ride now? Did you have issues with it?

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    maybe i am a little late to the party, but I really wish I would have known about the FZ-1 fuse block.
    would have saved me a boat load of cash...

    this is the one that I had used on my Victory Cross Roads.
    Worked extremely well, and i liked the ability to change/reset the "electronic" fuses in the module.
    but it also was almost $200 from Revzilla. I think the price is still around that point but they do come up from time to time on ebay for less.


    http://pdm60.com/


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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    So going back to the air for a minute.....if that’s running off of a 15 amp or higher, it’s not going to work with that correct?

    Air ride- 15 amp
    Led- 10 amp
    Led light - 10 amp

    If I add a trickle charger that will probably go right to the battery

    That’s what I’m working with
    Hey Bigpapa - just to clarify, just because something is currently on a 10A or 15A fuse, doesn't mean it is using 10 or 15 Amps. It might use 3 amps, but the circuit can handle 10. LED's are definitely not using 10Amps. LED's use max 60mA (for RGB White) - about 1.2 Amp per meter (3 feet). So 10 feet of LED's would use about 3.6 Amps.

    So I wouldn't say you are hooped, as someone else already mentioned - you need to check your Air Ride specs to see how much it actually uses. The two LEDs can almost undoubtedly both go on a single 10A circuit.

    And remember: 30A is the max *all at the same time*. So if you are adjusting the Air Ride and all the LED's and your Headlight on High and probably 5 or 6 other things... ALL at the same time, you will exceed 30A.


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    Quote Originally Posted by MonsterMash View Post
    maybe i am a little late to the party, but I really wish I would have known about the FZ-1 fuse block.
    would have saved me a boat load of cash...

    this is the one that I had used on my Victory Cross Roads.
    Worked extremely well, and i liked the ability to change/reset the "electronic" fuses in the module.
    but it also was almost $200 from Revzilla. I think the price is still around that point but they do come up from time to time on ebay for less.

    http://pdm60.com/

    I wouldn't lament that purchase - this is an entirely different animal!
    Programmable settings, microcontroller, 60A... the FZ-1 and PDM60 are not in the same functional class.
    Same objective... two very different tools.


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    Thanks....that’s what I figured. The only one of the group that I was concerned with was the air ride. I doubt that I would be running all of it together simultaneously.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NoSetFine View Post
    I wouldn't lament that purchase - this is an entirely different animal!
    Programmable settings, microcontroller, 60A... the FZ-1 and PDM60 are not in the same functional class.
    Same objective... two very different tools.
    I would agree with that for sure.

    I may well have chosen that PDM60 over the FZ-1 had I known about.

    I like programmable stuff

    But the PDM60 may be a bit over kill and overly complicated for some with no background on this kind of thing.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 03-30-2020 at 06:02 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    I would agree with that for sure.
    I may well have chosen that PDM60 over the FZ-1 had I known about.
    I like programmable stuff
    But the PDM60 may be a bit over kill and overly complicated for some with no background this kind of thing.
    BCS
    lol me too. the biggest thing that i liked was not having to chase down blown fuses.
    someone on the victory forum recommended it and it appealed to my sparky nature.
    you got your jesus on the dashboard, the devil's under my hood. you're takin' down to legal, i'm pulling it up to no good. god is your co-pilot, i let satan ride shotgun, you pay a toll to get to heaven, but on the road to hell there's none.....

    Navy - Its not just a job, its an adventure

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    Perfect, Iím going to find your post. Why no air ride now? Did you have issues with it?
    Yes, I had Gen 1 version from the group buy here years back. It developed a leak and just couldnt trust it on any long ride. It would leak down so slow you could feel it and then the first time I would make a turn I would start dragging everything. I lived the ride and look of the air ride. Just wish there was one that I could set for stock height and it would stay there in the twistys. So I just put my OEM shock back on

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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    Very Active Member Chrispy's Avatar
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    Iíve been wanting to buy the FZ-1 it looks so simple and clean and since I donít plan on adding anything that requires higher amperage, it should work perfect for me

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    Very Active Member meierjn's Avatar
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    I had purchased a FZ-1 for my M90 but didn't get it installed before the bike was written off. I plan on installing it on my M109R now. Where is everyone mounting them on the bike? What do you consider a good spot to mount that will allow for nice clean wire runs and stall make the Fuzeblock easily accessible?

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    Most I’ve seen have been installed under the left side cover near the ecu. There’s a flat spot there that’s perfect.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    Most I’ve seen have been installed under the left side cover near the ecu. There’s a flat spot there that’s perfect.

    Yep, that flat spot is your ECU bracket.

    So be sure to remove the bracket before you try to drill though it.

    One wrong move doing it in place and you could put the drill bit right into your ECU.

    You will need to unplug the ECU in order to remove this bracket. Then remove the bracket and ECU as one assembly.

    Just be careful to only pull on the connector itself and not the wires as the wires can pull out of the connector rather easily.

    Then carefully remove the bracket from the rubber mounting ring that sits around the ECU. Don't just yank on it or you will possibly break the rubber slots the metal bracket sits into.

    Here is a video I made to help show how to remove the ECU. It was done on my bike and I have the Fuze Block mounted on the ECU bracket, so you will see it in this video.

    https://www.facebook.com/20712662831...4148886683555/

    Excuse the video, it is not that great and it is not high quality, but it gets the point across well enough.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 03-31-2020 at 02:37 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    Most Iíve seen have been installed under the left side cover near the ecu. Thereís a flat spot there thatís perfect.
    Depends on the air ride. That is where the wife's arnott manifold is so I have her FZ1 on the right side. Made a bracket and it sits right behind the side cover. Love it. However, I didn't run the air ride through it. I left that up in the battery area in case she ever pops a fuse for some reason, it is easy to swap out to get her home instead of having to remove a cover.
    Formerly known as BigpapaM109

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    https://drive.google.com/file/d/1rGKc4q3VgzB0IHCddiq7gfZC-ta40nmE/view?usp=sharing


    heres a link for install instructions, i hope i shared it correctly

    Mike

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    Good point about the fuse, and I was thinking the same thing seeing how I’ve popped that fuse A few times already. 🤨

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    So Here’s another question. Can a resettable circuit breaker be used on the air ride, rather than an in line fuse? That way if it blows while out, you don’t need to worry about having a fuse on hand. And if so, would the rating on the breaker be the same as the recommended fuse? It seems like it would be. Meaning if I’m running a 20amp fuse, would I run a 20 amp breaker? I can’t even remember what size I run, just using that as an example. Just from a super quick search the lowest I’ve seen so far is 25amp.

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    Something like this. Good idea, bad idea?
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    Very Active Member Frotosride's Avatar
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    That would work however there are better solutions that take up less space and require nothing of you to reset except releasing the button to the power supply. You can find this style circuit breaker at any local auto parts store in varying amps I used the J&P web site because it was the first to come up.They last for seemingly ever, are very small and most importantly you do not have to touch them to reset. Simply stop sending power to the device and the circuit breaker will reset itself. I use them all the time. Especially for testing.

    https://www.jpcycles.com/product/380...B&gclsrc=aw.ds
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoSetFine View Post
    I wouldn't lament that purchase - this is an entirely different animal!
    Programmable settings, microcontroller, 60A... the FZ-1 and PDM60 are not in the same functional class.
    Same objective... two very different tools.

    I totally understand what what you are talking about now
    2 totally different tools. https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=iVkTQUN_hyU

    and I can answer bigpapa s question yes you can use this with your air ride
    most people wouldnít need this but it is cool and small.
    The programing of it is simple on the computer.
    All my BMW friends have it on their bikes.
    Thanks for your info

  29. #27
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    After watching that video, that pdm is super cool. Probably overkill for what I have, but really cool unit.

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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    After watching that video, that pdm is super cool. Probably overkill for what I have, but really cool unit.
    I looked at my thread and noticed my pics were gone so I updated a few of the pics from my install

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink/top...ink_source=app

    Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

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