Any How-To for cable lube & adjustment?
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Thread: Any How-To for cable lube & adjustment?

  1. #1
    Active Member Six's Avatar
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    Default Any How-To for cable lube & adjustment?

    I have a 2019 M109R approaching 1,000 miles, garage kept and ridden only when dry so she's very clean. I've done 600mi fluid changes and that's it so far.

    At what point do folks perform a cable lube and adjust? All seems fine though clutch cable has just a hair of free play (or whatever it's called) when first squeezing. Are there any How-Tos for cable lube & adjustment? I couldn't find one.

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    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Six View Post
    I have a 2019 M109R approaching 1,000 miles, garage kept and ridden only when dry so she's very clean. I've done 600mi fluid changes and that's it so far.

    At what point do folks perform a cable lube and adjust? All seems fine though clutch cable has just a hair of free play (or whatever it's called) when first squeezing. Are there any How-Tos for cable lube & adjustment? I couldn't find one.
    Don't make your clutch cable tight.
    There needs to be some slack in the clutch cable.
    If you lay your fingers on your clutch lever while riding, then roll on the throttle hard you will feel the slack in the cable get tight.
    Should you adjust your cable tight you will end up breaking the cable and possibly allowing the clutch to slip on acceleration.

    I run stainless cables so never lube mine.
    But it is easy to do.
    Google "Motorcycle cable lube tool" to see some options.

    The tool goes over the cable and has a place to spray lube into the tool, which directs the lube into the cable.

    BCS

  4. #3
    Active Member Six's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    Don't make your clutch cable tight.
    There needs to be some slack in the clutch cable.
    If you lay your fingers on your clutch lever while riding, then roll on the throttle hard you will feel the slack in the cable get tight.
    Should you adjust your cable tight you will end up breaking the cable and possibly allowing the clutch to slip on acceleration.

    I run stainless cables so never lube mine.
    But it is easy to do.
    Google "Motorcycle cable lube tool" to see some options.

    The tool goes over the cable and has a place to spray lube into the tool, which directs the lube into the cable.

    BCS
    Thanks BCS, that's exactly what I have is a little slack. I've seen posts about broken clutch cables, noted! I'll look in to the cable lube tool, thanks.

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    Very Active Member Mrtallguy67's Avatar
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    I always use the 2 quater gap method on mine and never had a cable issue. I would also recomend you reroute the cable to outside of the motor mount. The stock mounts are soft and wear quickly (mine were shot at 6k miles) as the mounts wear out the motor sags and puts pressure on the cable and often times pulls the cable out of the barrel at the lever.

    BOTM: SEPT 2016
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    One question for BCS (and others) -- I replaced my forward engine mounts because I felt the clutch lever move significantly between acceleration and throttle let-off. The old mounts were very worn and were replaced with the harder mounts.

    I still feel the clutch lever move, although not as significantly as before replacement.

    Do I need to replace the other four mounts?

    40K miles, rarely ridden like I stole it.

    TIA

  8. #6
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrtallguy67 View Post
    I always use the 2 quater gap method on mine and never had a cable issue.
    That worked pretty good when I had stock levers.

    But with the aftermarket levers I have on the bike now you would need to use around $1.50

    These have a much larger gap between these lever and the mount when clutch adjustment is set correctly

    OP more than likely has stock levers so what you saying would probably be a good reference for him.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 02-07-2020 at 02:20 PM.

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    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackhawkFan View Post
    One question for BCS (and others) -- I replaced my forward engine mounts because I felt the clutch lever move significantly between acceleration and throttle let-off. The old mounts were very worn and were replaced with the harder mounts.

    I still feel the clutch lever move, although not as significantly as before replacement.

    Do I need to replace the other four mounts?

    40K miles, rarely ridden like I stole it.

    TIA
    It has more to do with the centrifugal force put on to the clutch assembly as your RPM's increase.

    Your motor mounts could cause your cable to pull a little if they are totally worn out and your engine is flopping around with a lot of slop. So its always a good idea to inspect your motor mounts. (I am due for a set myself)

    But needing to leave a little slack in your cable and being able to feel the lever move (tighten up a bit) under acceleration is totally normal and it due to the outward force put on the clutch at higher RPS.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 02-07-2020 at 02:24 PM.

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    Very Active Member Stavros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackhawkFan View Post
    One question for BCS (and others) -- I replaced my forward engine mounts because I felt the clutch lever move significantly between acceleration and throttle let-off. The old mounts were very worn and were replaced with the harder mounts.

    I still feel the clutch lever move, although not as significantly as before replacement.

    Do I need to replace the other four mounts?

    40K miles, rarely ridden like I stole it.

    TIA

    only way to tell is inspect them...I replaced fronts at 48K KMS with harder rear,still ok at 90K+..
    others all original..as long as it doesn’t get tight on acceleration your good..
    Stav

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stavros View Post
    only way to tell is inspect them...I replaced fronts at 48K KMS with harder rear,still ok at 90K+..
    others all original..as long as it doesn’t get tight on acceleration your good..

    Thanks. My concern was with the transmission to drive shaft relationship.

  12. #10
    Active Member Six's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrtallguy67 View Post
    I always use the 2 quater gap method on mine and never had a cable issue. I would also recomend you reroute the cable to outside of the motor mount. The stock mounts are soft and wear quickly (mine were shot at 6k miles) as the mounts wear out the motor sags and puts pressure on the cable and often times pulls the cable out of the barrel at the lever.
    Thanks I'll check this out..

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    The Suzuki factory service manual should still be floating around online. If not I can email it to you.

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    Active Member Six's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Syler View Post
    The Suzuki factory service manual should still be floating around online. If not I can email it to you.
    Found it thanks!

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