Front Engine Mounts
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Thread: Front Engine Mounts

  1. #1

    Default Front Engine Mounts

    Hi guys..

    I have been reading through previous posts that go back quite a while about the dreaded front engine mounts,,,

    I tested my mounts by holding the back and front breaks and rocking the engine with the clutch, true to form the engine rocks to the point that when it rocks forwards I can hear a clunk or metal mount to Metal bracket,, so my assumption is the front mounts are buggered,,, I did notice they were worn as when riding normally there is a lot of play,

    Now suggestions on here vary from person to person, some said to use rear mounts as they are the same but stronger or stiffer material, others say that it must be the top rear mount as it is stronger and not the bottom rear mount as it is soft as the front.... It has been mentioned that someone created a nylon type bush which will outlast the rubber mounts,,,

    So you see my dilemma ? So what is the best advice on these mounts once and for all?

    Any advice greatly appreciated,,

    Dan

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  3. #2
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    I'm going to replace my front and rear tops once the weather warms a bit.

    P/N 11652-10G30 for all four.

    I understand these are the rear mounts, now standard for the fronts. They cost me about $18 each plus shipping.

  4. #3
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    If you look at the diagram and matching part numbers in this link you will see that the front and lower rear mounts are the same part number.
    The upper rears are different part number and supposedly made from a harder Material.

    http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/pa...r-2006-12.html

    And this link below is where you can find the aftermarket polyurethane mounts.

    http://secure.billydump.com/store/in...&productId=287

    BCS

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    If you look at the diagram and matching part numbers in this link you will see that the front and lower rear mounts are the same part number.
    The upper rears are different part number and supposedly made from a harder Material.

    http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/pa...r-2006-12.html

    And this link below is where you can find the aftermarket polyurethane mounts.

    http://secure.billydump.com/store/in...&productId=287

    BCS
    Thanks for correcting me. I thought Suzuki had upgraded their design. Guess not.

    From what I've read here, most guys replace the fronts and rear uppers. I'm planning to do the same based on this information. Am I wrong here as well?

    What I don't understand is why the rear lowers aren't replaced instead of the rear uppers. I understand it's a hassle, but it's the softer mount, so it probably wears almost as quickly as the front.

    #35 - 11652-10G00 (soft, front, rear lower)
    #36 -
    11652-10G30 (hard, rear upper)



  7. #5
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BlackhawkFan View Post
    Thanks for correcting me. I thought Suzuki had upgraded their design. Guess not.

    From what I've read here, most guys replace the fronts and rear uppers. I'm planning to do the same based on this information. Am I wrong here as well?

    What I don't understand is why the rear lowers aren't replaced instead of the rear uppers. I understand it's a hassle, but it's the softer mount, so it probably wears almost as quickly as the front.

    #35 - 11652-10G00 (soft, front, rear lower)
    #36 -
    11652-10G30 (hard, rear upper)


    I actually did not even pick up on that in your post, I was just replying to the OP's post trying to give him a bit more info with links.

    You also got it right about the why the lower mounts are often not replace by some......its a bit of job to get it done.

    BCS

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    If you look at the diagram and matching part numbers in this link you will see that the front and lower rear mounts are the same part number.
    The upper rears are different part number and supposedly made from a harder Material.

    http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/pa...r-2006-12.html

    And this link below is where you can find the aftermarket polyurethane mounts.

    http://secure.billydump.com/store/in...&productId=287

    BCS
    I have replaced the front and rear mounts with Scorp's mounts and am very satisfied with the results. The link to the poly mounts above leave me with 2 questions ... why there isn't 2 different densities of mounts (both the facotry and Scorp use different density mounts on front and back) ... and why are there grooves in these mounts ? (I would think these grooves give it a weakness that the factory mounts have .. the scorp mounts do not have the grooves).
    Power, looks and style ... nuff said !!

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by asillito View Post
    I have replaced the front and rear mounts with Scorp's mounts and am very satisfied with the results. The link to the poly mounts above leave me with 2 questions ... why there isn't 2 different densities of mounts (both the facotry and Scorp use different density mounts on front and back) ... and why are there grooves in these mounts ? (I would think these grooves give it a weakness that the factory mounts have .. the scorp mounts do not have the grooves).
    The polymounts linked above were designed by a couple of guys who are members of this page.
    I am sure one of them can give you more info as to the engineering and thought behind them.

    BCS

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    Quote Originally Posted by asillito View Post
    I have replaced the front and rear mounts with Scorp's mounts and am very satisfied with the results. The link to the poly mounts above leave me with 2 questions ... why there isn't 2 different densities of mounts (both the facotry and Scorp use different density mounts on front and back) ... and why are there grooves in these mounts ? (I would think these grooves give it a weakness that the factory mounts have .. the scorp mounts do not have the grooves).
    The issue with 2 different densities is proven with the stock mounts and Scorps mounts. They wear at different rates. The stock mounts fail faster due to this. Scorps mounts last longer than stock, but have failed also--- I have a set on the bench that proven that. Also, what can cause the failure with Scorp mounts is inconsistency when the chemicals are poured--- which is also how the different densities are created. The stock mounts are similar to this with the rubber.

    Using 1 density mount for all increases the life expectancy for all--- they all wear at the same rate. The flutes are purposely designed into the new design. It makes them easier to install, gives better vibration dampening, and are an even higher density then the stock and scorp mounts---which should outlast both of them. Also, on a different note, not sure Scorp is making them anymore.
    I am almost always working on a bike. If you have questions and need an answer quickly, just call me. 317-507-0940. Always up late. There will be time for sleep when I am dead!

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    Quote Originally Posted by futurR View Post
    The issue with 2 different densities is proven with the stock mounts and Scorps mounts. They wear at different rates. The stock mounts fail faster due to this. Scorps mounts last longer than stock, but have failed also--- I have a set on the bench that proven that. Also, what can cause the failure with Scorp mounts is inconsistency when the chemicals are poured--- which is also how the different densities are created. The stock mounts are similar to this with the rubber.

    Using 1 density mount for all increases the life expectancy for all--- they all wear at the same rate. The flutes are purposely designed into the new design. It makes them easier to install, gives better vibration dampening, and are an even higher density then the stock and scorp mounts---which should outlast both of them. Also, on a different note, not sure Scorp is making them anymore.
    My understanding is that the different densities was to compensate for the difference in 'tongue' weight at the front and rear mounts.
    Power, looks and style ... nuff said !!

  12. #10

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    Ok I bought the rear top mounts and put them in the front,,, After a mess around I found the easiest way to do it..,.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ga2PRCFggBY&t=16s

    Now after a couple of day riding I find there is more vibrating through the steering, especially if you open up the throttle the V Twin doesn't half shake the steering,,, My guess is that these softer mounts were there for a reason, possibly in initial testing they found the front mounts needed to be softer to take thew shock of the engine,,,,
    I think that my mounts would have given me maybe another 6 months before replacement was needed, so maybe in the next change i will revert to softer ones again to reduce the engine vibration being transferred to the front of the bike.
    The vibration isnt too bad unless you crank the throttle, it even shakes the screen...
    I know some will comment that maybe I didn't tighten something up, or I didnt install them properly,, but they are fitted correctly. Plus I dont think IM the only one who found more of the engine vibration transferred to the steering,,,

    A lesson learnt,,,,

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    Quote Originally Posted by dnlmclean View Post
    Ok I bought the rear top mounts and put them in the front,,, After a mess around I found the easiest way to do it..,.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ga2PRCFggBY&t=16s

    Now after a couple of day riding I find there is more vibrating through the steering, especially if you open up the throttle the V Twin doesn't half shake the steering,,, My guess is that these softer mounts were there for a reason, possibly in initial testing they found the front mounts needed to be softer to take thew shock of the engine,,,,
    I think that my mounts would have given me maybe another 6 months before replacement was needed, so maybe in the next change i will revert to softer ones again to reduce the engine vibration being transferred to the front of the bike.
    The vibration isnt too bad unless you crank the throttle, it even shakes the screen...
    I know some will comment that maybe I didn't tighten something up, or I didnt install them properly,, but they are fitted correctly. Plus I dont think IM the only one who found more of the engine vibration transferred to the steering,,,

    A lesson learnt,,,,
    You are not alone. I went with the Billydumps for the front and the normal engine vibration went away but they introduced a buzzing in the hand grips and foot pegs and the mirrors buzzed so badly they were useless. I rechecked everything, same problem. I then swapped the used rear uppers with the billydumps and that seemed to be the best middle ground for me. Maybe swap your current rear uppers with the new ones you put in the front?

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    I ride with my index and middle fingers resting on the clutch lever. I kept feeling the lever move every time I added or let off the throttle, even after replacing the front mounts. This told me the engine was shifting, therefore the four rear mounts were worn.

    I just got back from the stealership after having them replace the four rear mounts.

    $1000 and six hours later, I hopped on the bike and hit the interstate. No lever movement. I let off the throttle. No lever movement. Mirrors are a bit fuzzy now, but I accept that, since all six mounts are new and are the harder OEM.

    I examined the four removed mounts. Some wear, but nothing like my front mounts at 40K miles.

    Replacing the bottom rear mounts required four hands and a forklift to lift the engine. No kidding. Not a task for the faint of heart.

  15. #13
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    Your clutch lever should move upon acceleration if your clutch is adjusted properly.

    This is the reason the service manual states there should be slack (free play) in your clutch cable.

    If your cable is tight at idle then when you accelerate the centrifugal force of the clutch is still putting strain on your cable and it will eventually break.

    If the shop that changed your motor mounts also adjusted your clutch cable then this is the reason you do not feel the lever move.

    But if this is the case it's not a matter of if your clutch cable will break from it, but when.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stalker View Post
    Your clutch lever should move upon acceleration if your clutch is adjusted properly.

    This is the reason the service manual states there should be slack (free play) in your clutch cable.

    If your cable is tight at idle then when you accelerate the centrifugal force of the clutch is still putting strain on your cable and it will eventually break.

    If the shop that changed your motor mounts also adjusted your clutch cable then this is the reason you do not feel the lever move.

    But if this is the case it's not a matter of if your clutch cable will break from it, but when.
    I should have stated that there's a very slight movement of the lever. My point is it isn't moving significantly now.

    I didn't pay for them to adjust the clutch cable. If they had to remove the clutch cable to jockey the engine, which I doubt, then they adjusted it. I'll check my lever this morning.

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    So, the one thing I see on here that makes me leave mine alone is that those who replace the front mounts notice their hands getting more tingly. My 06, with 36,400 on the original mounts, doesn't put my hands to sleep. My B-King does. Within 10 miles, my hands are sleepy bad. I have cruise controls on both bikes, but the B-King is the one that needed it. My Nine, not so much. I don't know if the mounts on my Nine are bad or not, but if the end result is sleepy hands, I'm leaving them just as they are.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    So, the one thing I see on here that makes me leave mine alone is that those who replace the front mounts notice their hands getting more tingly. My 06, with 36,400 on the original mounts, doesn't put my hands to sleep. My B-King does. Within 10 miles, my hands are sleepy bad. I have cruise controls on both bikes, but the B-King is the one that needed it. My Nine, not so much. I don't know if the mounts on my Nine are bad or not, but if the end result is sleepy hands, I'm leaving them just as they are.
    Nothing stopping you from putting back the same exact OEM mounts that are the softer material.

    @ 36,000 miles they are shot without a doubt.

    But simply ignoring a know maintenance item works also I suppose.

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    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    So, the one thing I see on here that makes me leave mine alone is that those who replace the front mounts notice their hands getting more tingly. My 06, with 36,400 on the original mounts, doesn't put my hands to sleep. My B-King does. Within 10 miles, my hands are sleepy bad. I have cruise controls on both bikes, but the B-King is the one that needed it. My Nine, not so much. I don't know if the mounts on my Nine are bad or not, but if the end result is sleepy hands, I'm leaving them just as they are.
    There's more to your 'sleepy' hands that you may be aware of .... I had the same issue and ended up finding out, through nerve testing in my extremities, that I had a mild case of carpal tunnel. Once I had that fixed, the numbness all but disappeared.
    Power, looks and style ... nuff said !!

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    Quote Originally Posted by dnlmclean View Post
    Ok I bought the rear top mounts and put them in the front,,, After a mess around I found the easiest way to do it..,.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ga2PRCFggBY&t=16s

    Now after a couple of day riding I find there is more vibrating through the steering, especially if you open up the throttle the V Twin doesn't half shake the steering,,, My guess is that these softer mounts were there for a reason, possibly in initial testing they found the front mounts needed to be softer to take thew shock of the engine,,,,
    I think that my mounts would have given me maybe another 6 months before replacement was needed, so maybe in the next change i will revert to softer ones again to reduce the engine vibration being transferred to the front of the bike.
    The vibration isnt too bad unless you crank the throttle, it even shakes the screen...
    I know some will comment that maybe I didn't tighten something up, or I didnt install them properly,, but they are fitted correctly. Plus I dont think IM the only one who found more of the engine vibration transferred to the steering,,,

    A lesson learnt,,,,
    I replaced my mounts 2 years ago, with Scorp's mounts, and found the same stiffness/vibration, but found a new found positive feeling of the bike when I rode it. Now the better part of that vibration has disappeared. I still feel it was a job I'm glad I did !!
    Power, looks and style ... nuff said !!

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