Rear brake
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Thread: Rear brake

  1. #1
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    Default Rear brake

    My rear brake seems to be almost non existent. I’ve put new pads in, changed the fluid and bled fully, cleaned the pistons and ensured all working ok but I still have to boot the pedal hard to get any effect at all. Any suggestions or is it just the weight of the bike?

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  3. #2
    Very Active Member majalomalk's Avatar
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    Make sure everything is lined up correctly at the master cylinder if not the push rod can bind and give a crap pedal.

  4. #3
    Very Active Member asillito's Avatar
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    Use a non-permanent marker and mark rear disc, then while riding, hammer the rear brake. If the mark is still visible, you know there isn't much pressure of the brake pad on the disc. Consider this a start to your diagnosis
    Power, looks and style ... nuff said !!

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  6. #4
    Very Active Member Metalman's Avatar
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    Lift the rear of the bike off the ground and apply the rear brake as you turn the rear wheel. A slight amount of pressure on the pedal should lock the rear wheel.

  7. #5
    Very Active Member UVATom's Avatar
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    Question on your brake caliper. Do you have the bracket that relocates it under the swing arm? If so then it is impossible to bleed if the caliper is mounted on the bike since the bleeders point down.

  8. #6
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    Caliper is in the standard place. I've tried bleeding again and no air coming out at all, I tried both bleed nipples. The pedal is now almost locked solid and won't return properly so guessing the cylinder is seized? Any more thoughts?

  9. #7
    Very Active Member UVATom's Avatar
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    It does sound like you will have to take everything off and clean the system but I would start at the pedal and look for something wrong and work your way up. Check and make sure you didn't overfill the reservoir.

  10. #8
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    As to the pedal not returning, I had this last year and it was the pedal pivot rusted up. Suzuki put little or no grease on it, check gear shift pivot at the same time as that's the same.

  11. #9

    Default The rotor itself?

    It's possible the rotor itself is worn to thin and not within spec. You will need a micrometer to check it. Best of luck

  12. #10
    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R2Doucebag View Post
    It's possible the rotor itself is worn to thin and not within spec. You will need a micrometer to check it. Best of luck
    Ohhh, I doubt that very seriously. I've been riding since 1975, never had that problem. Especially with a damn rear brake. Most are useless as a tick on a hound dog. The M109R is no exception. Locks up way too easily. I rarely, if ever, even bother using the stupid thing. As badly as I overuse the fronts on all my bikes since way back when, never worn out a rotor by making it too thin. I'd pay to see that. LMAO!!

    Not from riding use. But obviously, someone turning a rotor down could over do it. I've never had a rotor turned down. Change pads and keep-on-keepin-on.
    SILVER 2006 M109R.
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  13. #11
    Very Active Member UVATom's Avatar
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    Actually all of my rotors were out of spec due to wear. What that means as far as performance, I am not sure. My rear was about .020" too thin before I changed it. Both fronts are about .010" thinner than the book minimum but I am waiting for the pads to wear out before replacing them.

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