280 on a 10" rim
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Thread: 280 on a 10" rim

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\r\n Default 280 on a 10" rim\r\n

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\r\n Do I need to do any modification to make this fit or would I be able to just swap the rims and tires?\r\n
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    \r\n no mods needed. Try to drop air in the tire when installing/removing get things easier to process.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983378] = '\r\n
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    \r\n i would ad to this question where to buy a 10 inch rim...and does it change the profile of the tire compared to an 8 inch rim?\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983386] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Viper109R\r\n View Post\r\n
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    i would ad to this question where to buy a 10 inch rim...and does it change the profile of the tire compared to an 8 inch rim?
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    Coastal Moto is where I got mine. You can also find them at MeanCycles. A 280 tire on a 10” wheel will have the same side wall profile as a 240 on an 8.5” wheel. 300 on a 10” wheel will have the side wall profile as a 260 on the stock wheel.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983388] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by DivkoviC\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Do I need to do any modification to make this fit or would I be able to just swap the rims and tires?
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    The 280 and 10\'\' rim will fit the stock swing arm without any modification. However, You will need to remove the rotor, caliper and even exhaust depend on what pipes you have to get it in. You have to start the wheel at a 90 degree angle to the rear of the bike with the swing arm over the hub in the barrel of the wheel. Being careful not to scratch anything you will then roll the rim strait into the fender area and lower the bike down to meet the rim to reinstall the axel and brakes. Its a tight fit so take your time and cover the swing arm with old towels to prevent scratches.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983392] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Mrtallguy67\r\n View Post\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by DivkoviC\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Do I need to do any modification to make this fit or would I be able to just swap the rims and tires?
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    The 280 and 10\'\' rim will fit the stock swing arm without any modification. However, You will need to remove the rotor, caliper and even exhaust depend on what pipes you have to get it in. You have to start the wheel at a 90 degree angle to the rear of the bike with the swing arm over the hub in the barrel of the wheel. Being careful not to scratch anything you will then roll the rim strait into the fender area and lower the bike down to meet the rim to reinstall the axel and brakes. Its a tight fit so take your time and cover the swing arm with old towels to prevent scratches.
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    Thanks for the advice. I should be installing it this weekend.
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    \nAlso, will being lowered 2" cause any necessary modification to the fender? Or is this another problem that only arises when going to the 300\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983396] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by DivkoviC\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Thanks for the advice. I should be installing it this weekend.
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    \nAlso, will being lowered 2" cause any necessary modification to the fender? Or is this another problem that only arises when going to the 300
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    If you are lowering it, grind off any bolts that extend below the inner fender. They will only be an issue if the suspension if fully compressed, but the bolts, if left, could slice through the tire.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983404] = '\r\n
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    \r\n One thing I noticed when I went with the 10 inch/280 combo using a Metzeler 280. With the stock rim and a 250 Dunlop Elite, I was never able to get wear on the tire all the way over to where the tread meets the sidewall. Just couldn\'t do it. Now, with the Metzeler, riding the exact same as I always have, the wear goes all the way across the entire tread section. To me, that tell me it\'s a little flatter than the Dunlop. Bike handles great and it doesn\'t feel like it takes more effort to lean it over hard.
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    \nAlso, on the front. I went Metzeler 140/70. Now, with the Dunlop Eite III 130/70 on the front, I had wear all the way across the entire tread, unlike the rear. Now with the Metzeler, it\'s the opposite. Unable to get wear across the entire tread.
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    \nSo to sum up, rear tire wears all the way across, where with the stock set up I couldn\'t do it. Front tire does not wear over the entire tread, where with the stock set up it would.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983406] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Poseidon\r\n View Post\r\n
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    If you are lowering it, grind off any bolts that extend below the inner fender. They will only be an issue if the suspension if fully compressed, but the bolts, if left, could slice through the tire.
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    \nThat or you can shim it with washers on the top side of the bolt rather than grinding, either way will work.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983414] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Poseidon\r\n View Post\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by DivkoviC\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Thanks for the advice. I should be installing it this weekend.
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    \nAlso, will being lowered 2" cause any necessary modification to the fender? Or is this another problem that only arises when going to the 300
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    If you are lowering it, grind off any bolts that extend below the inner fender. They will only be an issue if the suspension if fully compressed, but the bolts, if left, could slice through the tire.
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    It\'s already lowered so maybe done already but I will see the bolt situation once I take the stock rims off, thanks\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983416] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55\r\n View Post\r\n
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    One thing I noticed when I went with the 10 inch/280 combo using a Metzeler 280. With the stock rim and a 250 Dunlop Elite, I was never able to get wear on the tire all the way over to where the tread meets the sidewall. Just couldn\'t do it. Now, with the Metzeler, riding the exact same as I always have, the wear goes all the way across the entire tread section. To me, that tell me it\'s a little flatter than the Dunlop. Bike handles great and it doesn\'t feel like it takes more effort to lean it over hard.
    \n
    \nAlso, on the front. I went Metzeler 140/70. Now, with the Dunlop Eite III 130/70 on the front, I had wear all the way across the entire tread, unlike the rear. Now with the Metzeler, it\'s the opposite. Unable to get wear across the entire tread.
    \n
    \nSo to sum up, rear tire wears all the way across, where with the stock set up I couldn\'t do it. Front tire does not wear over the entire tread, where with the stock set up it would.
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    The front rim has a 160 on it, so I\'m curious to see how that will handle.
    \n
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    \nMight as well ask this question here too.
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    \nWill a 160 on the front require any modification?\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983418] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by DivkoviC\r\n View Post\r\n
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    The front rim has a 160 on it, so I\'m curious to see how that will handle.
    \n
    \n
    \nMight as well ask this question here too.
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    \nWill a 160 on the front require any modification?
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    Some say yes, some say no. I have a 160/300 set up now and was on a 280 in the past. I have LED\'s under the fender, so I made a set of fender extenders for my bike to be safe. I have also installed 160\'s for friends that didn\'t run any extenders so it could go either way. Basically if a rock gets stuck in the tread it will tare up the fender. You can loosen the fender bolts and use a rat tail file to slightly oblong the mounting hole and have another person pull up on the fender while you tighten the bolts back down as a cheap fix. Or grab a set of extenders from meancycles.com or if your handy make your own. The way I look at it is the extenders are a lot cheaper than a fender and I\'m better safe than sorry.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983430] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Mrtallguy67\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Some say yes, some say no. I have a 160/300 set up now and was on a 280 in the past. I have LED\'s under the fender, so I made a set of fender extenders for my bike to be safe. I have also installed 160\'s for friends that didn\'t run any extenders so it could go either way. Basically if a rock gets stuck in the tread it will tare up the fender. You can loosen the fender bolts and use a rat tail file to slightly oblong the mounting hole and have another person pull up on the fender while you tighten the bolts back down as a cheap fix. Or grab a set of extenders from meancycles.com or if your handy make your own. The way I look at it is the extenders are a lot cheaper than a fender and I\'m better safe than sorry.
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    Better safe than sorry.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983442] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Mrtallguy67\r\n View Post\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by DivkoviC\r\n View Post\r\n
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    The front rim has a 160 on it, so I\'m curious to see how that will handle.
    \n
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    \nMight as well ask this question here too.
    \n
    \nWill a 160 on the front require any modification?
    \r\n \r\n
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    Some say yes, some say no. I have a 160/300 set up now and was on a 280 in the past. I have LED\'s under the fender, so I made a set of fender extenders for my bike to be safe. I have also installed 160\'s for friends that didn\'t run any extenders so it could go either way. Basically if a rock gets stuck in the tread it will tare up the fender. You can loosen the fender bolts and use a rat tail file to slightly oblong the mounting hole and have another person pull up on the fender while you tighten the bolts back down as a cheap fix. Or grab a set of extenders from meancycles.com or if your handy make your own. The way I look at it is the extenders are a lot cheaper than a fender and I\'m better safe than sorry.
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    Ok, sounds like I\'ll be able to put it on and ride but will definitely get some fender extenders on order just in case\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983450] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Interesting observation on the ware of the 280 vs the 250. Could it be that the metzlers are stickier than the dunlops and therefore you lean them more? I thought the 250\'s are flatter on in the middle than other sizes/brands out there hence the longer life they get.
    \n
    \nAfter reading this I see a 10"rim with a 280 in my future \r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983460] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by W8INLINE\r\n View Post\r\n
    \r\n
    Interesting observation on the ware of the 280 vs the 250. Could it be that the metzlers are stickier than the dunlops and therefore you lean them more? I thought the 250\'s are flatter on in the middle than other sizes/brands out there hence the longer life they get.
    \n
    \nAfter reading this I see a 10"rim with a 280 in my future
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    Like I said, I don\'\'t ride any different. With both tires, I was hitting my heels on the ground on curves, followed by the peg feelers very lightly touching. I think the 250 when mounted on a stock rim, has more curve than the 280 does. And it\'s just hard to get over that last little bit to get all the way to the edge. I guess, if you\'re into scraping more than just the feelers, you may be able to do it.
    \n
    \nAll I\'m saying is that without changing my riding style one little bit, the 280 is worn all the way to the edge. Never could do that with the 250. Mikey likes it!
    \n
    \nThe 140 Metzeler front has a lot more curve to it than t he Dunlop 130 did. Hence I\'ll never be able to wear it to the edge like the 130 did.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983462] = '\r\n
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    \r\n You don\'t need extenders. The 140 I run up front is taller than those 160\'s. Just go to your nearest hardware store and pick up some bolts and washers to replace the stock fender bolts. The stock bolts have a large shoulder on them. That shoulder fits in the fender holes. If you install bolts without the shoulder and use washers to sit them on the fender, you\'d be amazed how much movement the fender has. I love the way my fender hugs the 140 front tire, no big gap any more. But enough clearance to prevent a stone tearing up the fender.\r\n
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  • \r\n'; pd[3983534] = '\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by DivkoviC\r\n View Post\r\n
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    The front rim has a 160 on it, so I\'m curious to see how that will handle.
    \n
    \n
    \nMight as well ask this question here too.
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    \nWill a 160 on the front require any modification?
    \n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by Mrtallguy67\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Some say yes, some say no. I have a 160/300 set up now and was on a 280 in the past. I have LED\'s under the fender, so I made a set of fender extenders for my bike to be safe. I have also installed 160\'s for friends that didn\'t run any extenders so it could go either way. Basically if a rock gets stuck in the tread it will tare up the fender. You can loosen the fender bolts and use a rat tail file to slightly oblong the mounting hole and have another person pull up on the fender while you tighten the bolts back down as a cheap fix. Or grab a set of extenders from meancycles.com or if your handy make your own. The way I look at it is the extenders are a lot cheaper than a fender and I\'m better safe than sorry.
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by DivkoviC\r\n View Post\r\n
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    Ok, sounds like I\'ll be able to put it on and ride but will definitely get some fender extenders on order just in case
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    I was nervous about clearance (shocked the 140 fits?!) and did this for my 160, working beautifully:
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    \r\n I\'ll have to check my fender this weekend. I don\'t see evidence of it around the holes. Been this way with the different bolts and washers since July 18. Almost 4000 miles.\r\n
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    \r\n Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55\r\n View Post\r\n
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    I\'ll have to check my fender this weekend. I don\'t see evidence of it around the holes. Been this way with the different bolts and washers since July 18. Almost 4000 miles.
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    Ya, I was quite shocked too - did the M6 bolts and washers one day, went for a ride, then found the fender the next morning all splintered and cracking under and around the bolts. Mildly freaked out, made those washers, all good now.
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    1. #1
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      Default 280 on a 10" rim

      Do I need to do any modification to make this fit or would I be able to just swap the rims and tires?

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