clutch slipping again
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Thread: clutch slipping again

  1. #1
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    Default clutch slipping again

    Hey all, need some advise on clutch slippage. My 2008 '9 started slipping when i went to OEM synthetic oil, weird but true. I did the push pin mod and cleaned up all the spacers and plates, changed the wave washer and changed the oil back to mineral 3 times to try and make sure that all of the synthetic oil was gone. I still have a slippage problem at the higher speed and rpm range. At about 130 kph it will rev up slightly then the clutch seems to grab. The bike doesn't have nearly the snap it used to. (This was the only change that I have done to the bike that is engine related, other than motor mounts, so I believe that the problem is isolated to the clutch.) I know about the 3 adjustment places, the lever is super easy. My question is how do you adjust the other 2 and is there a specific sequence? As well how do you adjust the push pin properly? Any help would be great as the next step for me would be a expensive shop visit as I am at a loss

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    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    3 adjustment points for clutch are....
    On the handle bars at the lever.
    Under the lower left side engine cover where the cable connects to the arm.
    And the push pin itself.

    Start by slacking off both your lever adjustment and the lower adjustment by the arm.
    Then take the cable completely off the lever on the bars so it hangs free.
    Remove your exhaust and clutch cover.
    Then loosen the locking nut on the pushpin and slack the adjustment screw off a bit so you know the push pin is moved back away from your pressure plate.
    (You should recheck the torque for the 6 bolts on the pressure plate at this point)
    Now that you know your pressure plate is secured to spec tighten the adjustment screw on the push pin until you feel the push pin mate up firmly to the back of the pressure plate.
    Then back off the push pin adjustment screw 3/4 of a turn and tighten the locking nut to keep the pushpin at this position.
    After this is done put your clutch cable back on the lever but do not make any adjustment at the lever. (leave it turned all the way in slack.
    Now go to the lower adjustment near the arm and tighten this adjustment until your lever has just a bit of slack between the lever and mount on the handle bars.
    You should be able to put 2 quarters into this gap......you must have this gap or amount of slack between the lever and mount because when you reach higher RPM's the centrifugal force of the clutch will actually make your cable tighter.
    Once you have achieved this gap between the lever and mount on the bars tighten the 2 nuts at the lower adjustment good so they cannot move.
    At this point your clutch should be adjusted properly........you should only use the adjustment on the lever (on the handlebars) to make any fine adjustment that may be needed.
    Again be sure to leave a gap between the lever and mount on the handlebars at all times.......do not over tighten the cable......this is likely why your clutch is slipping at high RPM.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 05-15-2019 at 01:24 AM.

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    Default Sparky knows his stuff !!

    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    3 adjustment points for clutch are....
    On the handle bars at the lever.
    Under the lower left side engine cover where the cable connects to the arm.
    And the push pin itself.

    Start by slacking off both your lever adjustment and the lower adjustment by the arm.
    Then take the cable completely off the lever on the bars so it hangs free.
    Remove your exhaust and clutch cover.
    Then loosen the locking nut on the pushpin and slack the adjustment screw off a bit so you know the push pin is moved back away from your pressure plate.
    (You should recheck the torque for the 6 bolts on the pressure plate at this point)
    Now that you know your pressure plate is secured to spec tighten the adjustment screw on the push pin until you feel the push pin mate up firmly to the back of the pressure plate.
    Then back off the push pin adjustment screw 3/4 of a turn and tighten the locking nut to keep the pushpin at this position.
    After this is done put your clutch cable back on the lever but do not make any adjustment at the lever. (leave it turned all the way in slack.
    Now go to the lower adjustment near the arm and tighten this adjustment until your lever has just a bit of slack between the lever and mount on the handle bars.
    You should be able to put 2 quarters into this gap......you must have this gap or amount of slack between the lever and mount because when you reach higher RPM's the centrifugal force of the clutch will actually make your cable tighter.
    Once you have achieved this gap between the lever and mount on the bars tighten the 2 nuts at the lower adjustment good so they cannot move.
    At this point your clutch should be adjusted properly........you should only use the adjustment on the lever (on the handlebars) to make any fine adjustment that may be needed.
    Again be sure to leave a gap between the lever and mount on the handlebars at all times.......do not over tighten the cable......this is likely why your clutch is slipping at high RPM.

    BCS
    SUZUKI BOULEVARD HYDRAULIC CLUTCH KIT EBAY FROM AUSTRALIA EASY FIT

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    3 adjustment points for clutch are....
    On the handle bars at the lever.
    Under the lower left side engine cover where the cable connects to the arm.
    And the push pin itself.

    Start by slacking off both your lever adjustment and the lower adjustment by the arm.
    Then take the cable completely off the lever on the bars so it hangs free.
    Remove your exhaust and clutch cover.
    Then loosen the locking nut on the pushpin and slack the adjustment screw off a bit so you know the push pin is moved back away from your pressure plate.
    (You should recheck the torque for the 6 bolts on the pressure plate at this point)
    Now that you know your pressure plate is secured to spec tighten the adjustment screw on the push pin until you feel the push pin mate up firmly to the back of the pressure plate.
    Then back off the push pin adjustment screw 3/4 of a turn and tighten the locking nut to keep the pushpin at this position.
    After this is done put your clutch cable back on the lever but do not make any adjustment at the lever. (leave it turned all the way in slack.
    Now go to the lower adjustment near the arm and tighten this adjustment until your lever has just a bit of slack between the lever and mount on the handle bars.
    You should be able to put 2 quarters into this gap......you must have this gap or amount of slack between the lever and mount because when you reach higher RPM's the centrifugal force of the clutch will actually make your cable tighter.
    Once you have achieved this gap between the lever and mount on the bars tighten the 2 nuts at the lower adjustment good so they cannot move.
    At this point your clutch should be adjusted properly........you should only use the adjustment on the lever (on the handlebars) to make any fine adjustment that may be needed.
    Again be sure to leave a gap between the lever and mount on the handlebars at all times.......do not over tighten the cable......this is likely why your clutch is slipping at high RPM.

    BCS
    BIG THANK YOU SPARKY!! Awesome step by step instructions, will get it done tonight after work and go for a test ride. really appreciate the quick response

  7. #5
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by davinci View Post
    SUZUKI BOULEVARD HYDRAULIC CLUTCH KIT EBAY FROM AUSTRALIA EASY FIT
    You can get the same symptoms the OP has even with a hydraulic clutch if you don't get the push pin and slave adjustment correct.

    BCS

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    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bmac View Post
    BIG THANK YOU SPARKY!! Awesome step by step instructions, will get it done tonight after work and go for a test ride. really appreciate the quick response
    Your welcome,

    Just another quick tip.

    The gap between the lever and mount on the bars.......make it where if your stacked 2 quarters on top of each other and turned the sideways they would fit into the gap and almost stay without falling out if you let go of them......you should be pretty close at that point.

    Its a can be a fine line between to tight and to loose......but this should get you right in the ball park.

    BCS

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    Detail I will watch for thanks again!!

  10. #8
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    On my 07, the lower lever of the clutch cable would not fully retract when I replaced my clutch. I had to manually pull the lever all the way up. Then adjust push pin, lower cable slack then at the lever.

    You can also see if your cable has enough slack when its in gear at idle. Keep very light pressure on your heels holding the bike up. Mine would creep ever so slightly. Had to adjust more slack at the bottom of the cable then readjust at the lever.

    And if your in the clutch adjusting the pin, you might want to check your steels and fibers. It doesnt take much to have them glazed over.

    On the earlier models, the wave washer, seat, and drive plate were changed in the earlier years also, just an FYI. And these changes were before the new additional plates were added to the newer 9's.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

  11. #9
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    Default clutch slipping again

    Quote Originally Posted by bmac View Post
    Hey all, need some advise on clutch slippage.
    Hi bmac.

    There's another thing to consider.

    Recently, after rebuilding my clutch (with all new plates), I found that the clutch was slipping. I removed the exhaust system & clutch cover again to adjust the push pin, but had the same result.

    The slipping was most noticeable when applying throttle under heavier load (i.e.: higher gears, or on the highway). For example, as I applied throttle, the engine rpm's increased disproportionately to the increase in acceleration.

    Thinking that I still hadn't adjusted the push pin properly, I opened it up yet again, only to find that it still didn't fix the problem.

    This was really perplexing because they were brand new clutch plates, and I was certain that I had put everything together properly.

    On the third try, I decided to look deeper into the problem, and here's what I found.

    There is a large gear attached to the rear of the clutch basket. That gear is supposed to be solidly attached to the clutch basket with a nut that is torqued to over 95 ft lbs.

    If that nut becomes loose --- even by a little bit --- then you will experience what feels like clutch slip. You won't be able to test the tightness of that gear with your hands, but you can possibly test it for slight movement of the nut by supporting the gear in a vise and using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer.

    The nut is a special design. It's often referred to as a 'spindle nut' or a 'castle nut'.

    The nut is so special, it seems, that Suzuki Canada doesn't even have a socket tool available to remove it, let alone re-tighten it. (Brilliant!)

    A Google / eBay search suggests that there is a similarly-sized socket tool (clutch hub spanner?) available for Honda VTX riders, but it can be expensive -- more than $200, and there's no guarantee that it will work.

    I suppose shop guys can modify a standard socket by cutting six ridges into the top edge.

    In the end, I opted to purchase a new clutch basket from Suzuki for about $300, which has the gear already attached and tightened.

    Following re-assembly, the new part worked perfectly. No more slipping.

    By the way, in order to remove the clutch basket, you also need to buy a vice-grip type of tool (Motion Pro Clutch Holding Tool 08-008, however, it's not very expensive.
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    Last edited by asviewedfrommars; 05-19-2019 at 08:36 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by asviewedfrommars View Post
    Hi bmac.

    There's another thing to consider.

    Recently, after rebuilding my clutch (with all new plates), I found that the clutch was slipping. I removed the exhaust system & clutch cover again to adjust the push pin, but had the same result.

    The slipping was most noticeable when applying throttle under heavier load (i.e.: higher gears, or on the highway). For example, as I applied throttle, the engine rpm's increased disproportionately to the increase in acceleration.

    Thinking that I still hadn't adjusted the push pin properly, I opened it up yet again, only to find that it still didn't fix the problem.

    This was really perplexing because they were brand new clutch plates, and I was certain that I had put everything together properly.

    On the third try, I decided to look deeper into the problem, and here's what I found.

    There is a large gear attached to the rear of the clutch basket. That gear is supposed to be solidly attached to the clutch basket with a nut that is torqued to over 95 ft lbs.

    If that nut becomes loose --- even by a little bit --- then you will experience what feels like clutch slip. You won't be able to test the tightness of that gear with your hands, but you can possibly test it for slight movement of the nut by supporting the gear in a vise and using a flat blade screwdriver and hammer.

    The nut is a special design. It's often referred to as a 'spindle nut' or a 'castle nut'.

    The nut is so special, it seems, that Suzuki Canada doesn't even have a socket tool available to remove it, let alone re-tighten it. (Brilliant!)

    A Google / eBay search suggests that there is a similarly-sized socket tool (clutch hub spanner?) available for Honda VTX riders, but it can be expensive -- more than $200, and there's no guarantee that it will work.

    I suppose shop guys can modify a standard socket by cutting six ridges into the top edge.

    In the end, I opted to purchase a new clutch basket from Suzuki for about $300, which has the gear already attached and tightened.

    Following re-assembly, the new part worked perfectly. No more slipping.

    By the way, in order to remove the clutch basket, you also need to buy a vice-grip type of tool (Motion Pro Clutch Holding Tool 08-008, however, it's not very expensive.
    Awesome advise again: great for future reference I checked everything over and it’s still tight

  13. #11
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    Tube nut. Have seen it here a few times on the earlier year 9's. There is a threads here that talk about it.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

  14. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    Tube nut. Have seen it here a few times on the earlier year 9's. There is a threads here that talk about it.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

    You guys have seen a loose tube nut cause the clutch to slip?

    The few times I have run across this the symptoms were exactly opposite......the clutch stayed fully engaged even if you had the lever pulled full to disengage it.

    Once the Tube Nut is loose the basket, hub and entire clutch stack is able to move right along with the pressure plate when you go to disengage the clutch. So you never get the stack to separate and disengage.

    Can you guys shed some light on how the tube nut coming loose could cause the clutch to slip but not have the symptoms I described above? .....I am intrigued by the responses saying this but just cant get my head around the physics.

    It does not seem possible in my mind.....but I have been wrong before.

    BCS

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    Quote Originally Posted by davinci View Post
    SUZUKI BOULEVARD HYDRAULIC CLUTCH KIT EBAY FROM AUSTRALIA EASY FIT
    Costs a lot more money than just properly adjusting the clutch cable. I have an 08 B-King with a hydraulic clutch. It's no easier to pull than my M109R is. So why bother?
    SILVER 2006 M109R.
    BLACK 2008 B-KING


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