I strongly doubt you’re going to find anyone here who has gone from a stock size 18” wheel to a 17” wheel, and then to a 21” wheel. In addition, the 17” front wheel setup is much less common than the 21” front wheel setup. I can tell you from having ridden my buddy’s 9 with a 17” front wheel and 170mm tire that the ride, comfort over bad road conditions, and handling is very nice and well balanced, with regard to rake and trail accuracy.
Interesting. Never heard anyone talking about 170/17 up front on here before. I'm glad you had a pic - and I thought the 160 was chubby!
A 170/60/17 would be almost identical to stock diameter/circumference... except 1.6" wider! Wow.
(and 0.4" wider than a 160, but the 160 is taller with less sidewall so the 170 would still look like a lot more meat than even the 160)
I just installed a 17'' front set up on a friends bike this weekend. He upgraded to a 10'' mimic rear runing a 280 tire and a mimic front 17'' currently running a 160/70/17. Its a wider wheel than the factory one and he can go up to a 180 with some fender work. His 160 is visibaly fatter than my 160/60/18 set up on factory size front.
Its a agressive look, but a bit of a pain when it comes to tire changes. On the 18'' rim you can leave the rotors attached to the rim and just remove the calipers, pull the axle and remove the wheel. With the 17'' rim there isnt enough room between the rotor and wheel lip/barrel to get the calipers off. So you will have to remove the rotors first, that means you have to pull the axle out and then try to keep the wheel from moving and getting scratch on the calipers/rotors while you remove them so the wheel can pull out.
Its not a deal breaker for sure, just a bit of a pain trying to not scratch the rim while you fish the rotors out and in. Also standard fender extenders wont work, you will need extenders that are about 1/4'' taller to fit the fatter tire.
Just something to be aware of if you go that route.
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