Clutch Cable
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Thread: Clutch Cable

  1. #1
    Active Member ontherocks2u's Avatar
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    Default Clutch Cable

    Trying to figure out how long in avg. the stock one last... I got 25,000 miles and no problems.. but One would never know when it will go..
    Right
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    Very Active Member Viper109R's Avatar
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    If adjusted properly i dont see a reason to have it fail? Have had 3 9s no failures.
    Art
    2007 M109R | 280 Rear | Smoked Tail | Debeavered | HardKandy 3" Drag Pipes| HID | Mini Turns

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    Very Active Member Mrtallguy67's Avatar
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    The routing location of the cable from the factory can affected the cable life due to failing front motor mounts. If you have old worn out mounts it can cause the cable to fail prematurly. If you have it re-routed outside the mounts and keep it adjusted and lubed it could go for a long long time.

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    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    It's not the cable itself that usually causes the problem. My stock cable let go in 2014. Cable didn't break, it pulled out of the barrel on the bottom end. I don't know if that barrel is swedged on, soldered, what? How it's attached? But the cable pulled right out of it. Had around 20,000 miles on the bike. Fortunately I was only about 1.5 miles from home, was able to get it home without the clutch. Got it down into first, turned into a neighborhood that abuts where I live. Rode through the hood, shifting from first-to-second, floating all the stop signs. Turned into my apartments, hit the remote to open the gate, floated through the gate, shifted it into neutral with great difficulty, coasted down the hill into my garage.
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  7. #5
    Active Member ontherocks2u's Avatar
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    Thank you for the kind replies to my post. I'll check thing out before I make a trip for sure.
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  8. #6
    Very Active Member Stavros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mrtallguy67 View Post
    The routing location of the cable from the factory can affected the cable life due to failing front motor mounts. If you have old worn out mounts it can cause the cable to fail prematurly. If you have it re-routed outside the mounts and keep it adjusted and lubed it could go for a long long time.

    ...I let my motor mounts wear much to long,and my original cable went somewhere around 40K miles.. did the mounts shortly after and with the new second generation cable,I’m hoping it lasts much longer..the barrel is where it let go also,that was the weak point for sure in the old original...have the hard rear mounts and they look fine so far with about 20K miles on them...

    OP keep an eye on the barrel and if you see and fraying best to swap asap...on a side note,I havnt heard many GenII cables failing..so maybe they are that much better
    Stav

  9. #7
    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    When it lets go from the barrel, there will be no evidence. The cable doesn't fray, it just slides out of the barrel. My old cable was perfect where it went in the barrel, and I still have the old barrel in my garage. Yes, the Gen II cable seems to be an improvement. Don't know what the motor mounts have to do with the cable, keep it properly adjusted so the cable is not under tension 100% of the time and it should go on-and-on. My motor mounts are still original at near 35,000 miles.
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  10. #8
    Very Active Member Mrtallguy67's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    When it lets go from the barrel, there will be no evidence. The cable doesn't fray, it just slides out of the barrel. My old cable was perfect where it went in the barrel, and I still have the old barrel in my garage. Yes, the Gen II cable seems to be an improvement. Don't know what the motor mounts have to do with the cable, keep it properly adjusted so the cable is not under tension 100% of the time and it should go on-and-on. My motor mounts are still original at near 35,000 miles.
    From the factory the cable is routed under the front motor mount. When the mount wears out it causes the motor to sag. You can adjust the cable properly while parked, but the stress on the cable as the motor sags under acceleration and deceleration cause an over tightened condition that often pulls the cable out of the barrel.

    Being that your munts have 35k on them, that's probably the reason yours failed the way it did. If you route the cable next to the mount rather than under it, you can eliminate the issue I'm sure, but id do the mounts as well, but that's just me.

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  11. #9
    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Yes, when I replaced the cable at 20,000 after it broke, I did in fact route it outside the mount as you suggest. It's been fine for near 15,000 miles now.

    Anyhow, you'll know when the barrel is about to let go. I was out riding one day, and had to stop and make a large adjustment to the top adjuster. Within a mile, it let go. So, if you ever have to stop and make that large adjustment, be prepared for the cable to let loose on you at an unsuspecting time. I had just made a right turn in town, pulled the clutch to shift to second, and wham, the lever hit the bar. OOPS! Fortunately I was close to home when it happened. I also carry a spare cable, a five foot piece of string, and the tools to change it on the fly if necessary.
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  12. #10
    Active Member ontherocks2u's Avatar
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    Thanks again peeps... Getting a cable for that "just in case" event. Would like to a hydraulic version just because the feel of it.
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  13. #11
    Active Member 84yota's Avatar
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    Pardon my ignorance but what year starts the Gen II?

  14. #12
    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 84yota View Post
    Pardon my ignorance but what year starts the Gen II?
    As far as clutch cables go, I want to say it was 2008 up. Likely wrong, but there were a lot of issues with them in the first couple years. A lot of frayed broken cables. Some got lucky, as I did, and mine lasted til 2014 and 20,000 miles before pulling from the lower barrel. The first two years, the cable was just a plain silver cable in the housing. The new ones have a white coating of some kind on them, likely Teflon.

    Some say the clutch on this bike is hard to pull. I've never thought so myself. I mean, I have a 2008 Suzuki B-King with a hydraulic clutch, and it's no easier. Those who've done the hydraulic clutch mod on their Nine also say it's no easier. Myself, I'm keeping the cable clutch, not even tempted to spend the big coin to buy that kit. I'll just always keep a spare on the bike and the stuff needed to change it on the road.
    Last edited by cbxer55; 1 Week Ago at 01:48 AM.
    SILVER 2006 M109R.
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  15. #13
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    Keeping the cable adjusted and well lubed is important for long life. Also, I've found that the upper end of the cable where it pivots in the clutch lever needs to be lubricated often. Also the pivot on the clutch lever needs to be lubed.

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