Phil's Offset Fender Washer (for 160 front)
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Thread: Phil's Offset Fender Washer (for 160 front)

  1. #1
    Very Active Member NoSetFine's Avatar
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    Default Phil's Offset Fender Washer (for 160 front)

    Hey Team.
    As you may be well aware, a fender lift is recommended for a 160 front tire. Some prefer a "light" lift (apply lifting pressure when screwing fender back in) and some a more generous one (proper but expensive "fender extensions" or a "lift kit" of sorts, to raise the fender about 1/2"). I went with something in the middle, and gently round-filed the screw-holes to be "keyhole" shaped in the direction I wanted, bought M6x16mm stainless cap screws and washers, and re-mounted the fender - with threadlock blue of course. Note: With these "POFW" washers you could probably go M6x20mm but 16mm is the original screw length and seemed fine despite several new mm's of washer thickness.

    Unfortunately, my original barebones M6 solution immediately caused HAIRLINE CRACKS IN MY FENDER!! The plastic splintered under the pressure of the new much smaller M6 cap screw shoulders, as the pressure was no longer distributed evenly across the larger surface of the mounting socket.

    Enter: Phil's [M109R] Offset Fender Washers.
    (https://www.tinkercad.com/things/crVgqvC1rUm)

    To solve the splintering problem, I designed an "offset" washer and 3D printed it. I epoxied mine into their sockets to reinforce the already splintered plastic fender, but they would probably work just fine on their own as-is. "Phil" is my "other" online pen-name...

    Anyway, a couple simple pics are attached and the above link is the public 3D drawing of the washers you can download for your own printer, or modify (I think?) if you have a Tinkercad userid. If the link dies over time, search for "POFW M109R" on Tinkercad. You could also use them to target the new drill-hole for perfect alignment, if you wanted - the design allows you to rotate the location of the new hole to achieve the desired "lift and tilt". For example, I found the top screw I mounted straight down but the bottom screw needed to rotate a bit more to a 4 o'clock-ish position to properly tilt the fender to be less in the back and a bit more open in the front (so rocks can always get out). The POF-Washers also allow you to maintain a more even pressure across the mounting sockets with the smaller shoulders of the M6 cap screw and a small washer. FYI - I personally printed them with "90% fill" to ensure a strong density. They include a nipple to duplicate the shaft/mid-shoulder of the original screw and to thereby hold the raised fender position in place without sagging over time.

    All commercial rights reserved, and no warranties are offered or implied - "use at your own risk" as it were - but they look like they will work just fine for my personal needs and thought I'd share.

    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #2
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Default

    while you're at it. Get some touch up paint from colorite and paint them. I have the extensions I know, but I have all my factory screws painted to match the color and it makes a big difference. All for fender and any that hold body parts ie headlight bucket, rad shroud etc

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