109 Engine tear-down and Real Oil Mod
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Thread: 109 Engine tear-down and Real Oil Mod

  1. #1

    Exclamation 109 Engine tear-down and Real Oil Mod

    Hi All, I have just posted a video of a complete engine tear-down for gearbox repair and oil mod.
    DON'T DO THE PIN MOD WITHOUT WATCHING THIS!!! you may be making your gearbox suffer.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n4vjN3UllWo&t=23s

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  3. #2
    Very Active Member NoSetFine's Avatar
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    Most amazing walkthrough of my engine I have ever seen (keeping in mind, changing my own oil is about as deep as I usually go...).
    I finally understand the "2nd gear" issue quite thoroughly and will be watching for those early symptoms...!

    Brilliant video.
    Well done, thanks for sharing that.


  4. #3
    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Yeah, oil changes and spark plugs here. Nothing else. Second gear? My 06 has 34,500 now and still no problems with second gear. Shifts into second gear fine, and stays in second gear fine. If I do a lazy foot shift, it MIGHT pop out. Maybe once a year. Never missed a shift into second, never hit a false neutral in 13 years and 34,500 miles. I do get an occasional shudder, maybe two or three times a year. Not enough to warrant a tear down to fix. BUT, ever since I switched from 20W-50 dino oil to Suzuki 10W-40 full synthetic oil, hasn't happened once. Didn't happen one time last year after I made the switch. Ridden it three times and over 300 miles so far this year, no shudder. I'm happy.

    I must be lucky!
    Last edited by cbxer55; 03-21-2019 at 12:47 PM.
    SILVER 2006 M109R.
    BLACK 2008 B-KING


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    Very Active Member Sasnuke's Avatar
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    Great video! Damn work got in the way of me watching start to finish in one shot lol

    It would be great to see you actually mod the jet as you were talking about right at the end.
    Also, would you combine that with the pin mod?
    It would seem that if you've increased oil flow throughout the assembly, that the pin mod can still be done without presumably starving the rest of the unit.

    I think it goes without saying a reassembly video would be in demand.
    2008 M109R2 Black - Flat black rims, Smoked turn signals, K&N Replacement filters, 2006 Exhaust Debaffled, & HealTech GiPro A-TRE G2.

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    interesting vid
    increasing the hole dia x 2 increases the flow by about 3x tho surely ? i would be worried about starving the cams personally.
    on most engines the pressure relief valve only kicks in when the oil is cold (typically at 70psi) so when the engine is idling at about 30 psi the pressure relief valve wont be compensating for the reduced flow

  8. #6
    Very Active Member NoSetFine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankj View Post
    interesting vid
    increasing the hole dia x 2 increases the flow by about 3x tho surely ? i would be worried about starving the cams personally.
    on most engines the pressure relief valve only kicks in when the oil is cold (typically at 70psi) so when the engine is idling at about 30 psi the pressure relief valve wont be compensating for the reduced flow
    For reference, twice the diameter = 4 times the surface area = 4 times the volume of a fixed cylinder.


  9. #7
    Very Active Member Sasnuke's Avatar
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    Not to mention the drilling of the holes at the base of the jet where the oil enters first.
    The oil flow would be significantly increased...I guess the question is, how much is too much.

    Also, is the oil pressure relief valve opening linear or just open close.
    Like a thermostat for the engine, it doesn't wait for the bike to overheat before it opens, it opens gradually as needed to maintain flow and cooling.
    2008 M109R2 Black - Flat black rims, Smoked turn signals, K&N Replacement filters, 2006 Exhaust Debaffled, & HealTech GiPro A-TRE G2.

  10. #8
    Very Active Member futurR's Avatar
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    Just a few points to clarify things from the video. The starter clutch sets behind the magneto, not the gear that makes contact with the starter stem. No real reason to have the engine level other than to make it easier on the mechanic---- never needed it level in 10yrs of building 109's. The damage to the gears have been on the site since '06, nothing new there, BUT replacing them with stock gears and not having them back cut will just end in the same result--- happened more then a few times with members on the site. The pin mod is designed to get oil to the clutch plates, as they receive none is stock form, and is very evident from your video with all black plates. As stated when the pin mod was first developed, if you grind too much, you could starve the top end of the engine of oil---- not your gearbox. The gearbox receives its' oil from a different galley and is mainly oil bathed. There has only been one reported issue from the pin mod since its' inception, and that was suspect at best. The pin mods works just fine as it has done so for over a decade--- think it is fairly proven by now. The gearbox is damaged from the shift rod forks and shift rods flexing---hence the marks show in the video on that shift fork. The aftermarket shift forks and shift rods solve that--- proven for a decade also.

    I do appreciate the videos that you and many others take the time to make. I know more than anyone the time and effort and knowledge that is required to do the work. However, I will always try a clear things up when some miss-information is sent out that could miss-lead others to understand one thing, but the reality is different. Yes, things can get lost in verbiage/translation from different terminology from one country to the next (and I am confident that we Americans have severely trashed the English language), but proven mods are just that. Keep on making videos and good on to ya.
    Last edited by futurR; 03-22-2019 at 06:14 PM.
    I am almost always working on a bike. If you have questions and need an answer quickly, just call me. 317-507-0940. Always up late. There will be time for sleep when I am dead!

  11. #9
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    i would definitely backcut the 2nd gear dogs too, the indexing selector drum only shifts the fork across 5mm, and when you take into account the free play/slack in the fork and its dowel, and any endfloat in the cluster then in practice the dogs only engage about 3mm
    3mm of engagement is not enough to avoid the gear jumping, the only solution imo is backcutting so that the dogs pull together and fully engage

  12. #10
    Very Active Member Chrispy's Avatar
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    Finally got the time to fully watch the video! Very detailed and great work!!

  13. #11
    Member Truffle's Avatar
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    Awesome, thanks for the vid I have found myself needing to do a complete rebuild so this should be helpful

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