Hey broger. (haha I just noticed this NOVELLA I wrote in reply...
skip to the BLUE PART for the easy answer...)

This very challenge is well illustrated by VZRDean's "high lumen / low lux" personal experience and further to what Macd7919 mentioned (whom it seems has either worked in, or studied the same material I have reviewed...

I will summarize what I learned from studying someone MUCH (much... like Sheldon of Big Bang Theory kind of much more) more skilled than I in the art of engineering of light - Daniel Stern (
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/...lbs/bulbs.html ) - unfortunately he has removed all his Automotive FAQ material for some reason, not sure why, now by request only. Another good source are discussions on CandlePower Forums (
http://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/forum.php) where Daniel has in the past made regular contributions.
In short - every bulb is designed for a specific reflector. Our "H4" bulbs have two axial filaments (other bulbs have transverse filaments by design -
https://www.danielsternlighting.com/...ulb_types.html) - one filament is exposed 180 degrees for low beam, one is exposed at 360 degrees for high beam. The reflector in our headlight is specifically tuned to expect those filaments in those specific locations in that orientation to properly focus those lumens on the road for maximum lux.
The main problem with most garbage LED's is they cannot match the radiant pattern of the original incandescent filament - LED's are uncontrolled light sources which throw light in all directions from their mount surface (in the case of SMD's). The Cyclops and Philips Ultinon LED bulbs (and now you can see it in the Chinavision knockoffs) attempt to simulate this incandescent radiation pattern by aligning their LED's to fire in a similar direction as the filaments.
So... without changing the reflector, you are stuck trying to find a brighter incandescent without frying your electrical harness (more light requires more watts which create more heat on your wires) or an LED with the proper orientation most closely matching an incandescent H4 filament. In my personal reviews,
it seems the Cyclops and the Philips Ultinon have done a good job at this. One bonus to the Ultinon is that it is fanless - very difficult to do with a high output LED due to the heat they generate and lower kelvins (technically better illumination for the eye, but doesn't look as "cool" as the "whiter" looking 5k/6k rated sources). Unfortunately, the price on the Philips is a bit insane (although you get two of them... sell one?), explaining why the Cyclops, from user experience alone, seems to be a very good option. Take a look at the Cyclops LED's - you can clearly see the 180 shroud and 360 open LEDs, mounted back-to-back, attempting to simulate the axial filament of the H4 incandescent.
Good luck with your search.
Attachment 382708