Rear Brake Pads Badly Burned-Why?
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Thread: Rear Brake Pads Badly Burned-Why?

  1. #1
    Very Active Member Metalman's Avatar
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    Default Rear Brake Pads Badly Burned-Why?

    During a ride yesterday, my rear brake pads overheated so much that they deteriorated badly and one of the pads was almost down to the backing plate. The 2013 Nine has about 6,000 miles, and I don't use the rear brake as often as the front brake, and never with much force. The bike has never been stored in a damp environment.

    I noticed the problem after running on the Interstate for ten miles or so at 70-80 MPH. At the exit, I had no rear brakes; the pedal when all the way down. Eventually after pumping the brake pedal, the pistons were pushed out by the fluid and the brakes returned to working.

    I removed the pads and the lining fell off. The pins look good, and the pistons don't look corroded or very dirty, just a little film on them. I was able to push them in with my fingers, so I know they are not stuck.

    I bought new pads and will clean the pistons and with change the brake fluid.

    Does anyone know what could have caused the brakes to drag enough to burn the pads.

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    Very Active Member UVATom's Avatar
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    I would say your rotor is probably shot if the brake got that hot.

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    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    This happen on my 2007 not long ago also.

    Everyone said I was riding my back brake....possible I guess but I really don't think I was. (The pedal sticks out there quite a bit so I guess its possible but I really thing it got stuck or something)

    I just put new pads on it, bled the brakes and changed the fluid and it worked fine after that.

    Make sure the spring is pulling the pedal all the way back up.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 11-09-2018 at 02:13 PM.

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    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Happened to me a long time ago on my last CBX. Rear brake got stuck, caused the bike to drag noticeably. Had to pull the caliper off the rotor to get the bike home. Ended up the piston to the master cylinder was hanging up, not letting the pads return to their "loose" position. Rotor was seriously dis-colored, so I replaced it and the master cylinder, all was fine after that. Could be as was mentioned, that the spring is weak or broken and is not pulling the lever back to it's "off" position.
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    Very Active Member UVATom's Avatar
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    You may want to check the rotor thickness for the minimum and maybe use a dial indicator to see if it's warped.

    My rear brake was dragging so I popped the pistons out and replaced the seals to fix mine.

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    Very Active Member Metalman's Avatar
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    Thanks for the comments about the hot brakes. I don't think I was pressing on the brake pedal, but it certainly is possible because of the way I often ride with my heel on the foot peg and my toes on the highway peg.

    The brake fluid looks good, but I will changed it, because it must have gotten very hot. I don't think the rotor is warped because I didn't sense any vibrations at the end of my ride when I was using the brakes. I will put it back together and see what happens.

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    Very Active Member Fishman349's Avatar
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    It would not hurt to lube the pivot point on the brake pedal as well.
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    Very Active Member Metalman's Avatar
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    Good point on lubricating the pivot on the pedal. Though at 6,000 miles it shouldn't be a problem.

    I installed new brake pads, replaced the brake fluid (the old fluid looked good), scuffed the outside of the rotor with sandpaper where most of the burning took place with, and took the bike for a ride. The rear brake works well, fully releases, and there is no hint of vibrations, so I presume the rotor is fine.

    I would feel a lot better if I knew what caused the problem.

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    Very Active Member Fishman349's Avatar
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    Maybe a new set of boots or shoes resting on the brake pedal.
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    Very Active Member Metalman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishman349 View Post
    Maybe a new set of boots or shoes resting on the brake pedal.
    That is very possible. I will be riding barefoot from now on.

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    Very Active Member Metalman's Avatar
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    Took the bike on a couple test rides with no rear brake problem. But today, Richard and I rode about sixty miles before the rear brake over heated. I noticed that the Nine didn't have it's normal power when accelerating from 60 MPH, so I pulled over. The rear rotor was so hot that it vaporized the spit on my finger and singed my finger prints. The caliper was hot enough to immediately boil and vaporize spit. I was not riding with my food even close to the brake pedal.

    I rode forty miles home without using the rear brake and when I got off the bike, the rotor was slightly warm. I am thinking that the problem is with the master cylinder.

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    Very Active Member asillito's Avatar
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    Another common problem is brake pad glazing. That where a glaze builds up on the pad surface and reduces the stopping power of the pad. I had that happen with my stock pads and I replaced them with a good quality aftermarket pad. That was many years ago and I have not had any stopping or pad issues since.
    Power, looks and style ... nuff said !!

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    Very Active Member UVATom's Avatar
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    Mine would drag and get hot as well. Replaced the rotor and put new seals and cleaned the caliper pistons fixed mine. If your rotor has gotten that hot there is a good possibility it is warped. You would need a bike jack and a dial indicator to check for warpage. You can get an auto parts store to loan you the dial indicator.

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    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Yeah, on my old CBX, I ditched the rotor after it got that hot. No way I'd use it again.

    Talk to JUDAH-9, he has a set of black rotors, all three, off a 2014 model for sale. $300 for all three. They're not in the classifieds, he told me he had them and wasn't going to use them, changed his plans.
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    Very Active Member Fishman349's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Metalman View Post
    Took the bike on a couple test rides with no rear brake problem. But today, Richard and I rode about sixty miles before the rear brake over heated. I noticed that the Nine didn't have it's normal power when accelerating from 60 MPH, so I pulled over. The rear rotor was so hot that it vaporized the spit on my finger and singed my finger prints. The caliper was hot enough to immediately boil and vaporize spit. I was not riding with my food even close to the brake pedal.

    I rode forty miles home without using the rear brake and when I got off the bike, the rotor was slightly warm. I am thinking that the problem is with the master cylinder.
    I would recommend re-building the rear caliper if you can get a kit after it was that hot. You have probably made the O rings on the piston a little crispy or hard. You could also inspect it while re-building and hopefully eliminate it as the problem or fix the problem. Good luck.
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    Check the alignment of the operating rod to the mastercylinder, if its out of line it causes the cylinder to hold pressure and drag the rear brakes as it does'nt release properly. A common problem especially after fitting after market crashbars

  19. #17
    Very Active Member Metalman's Avatar
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    It's been a while since I started this thread. My Nine has been up on the lift for a few weeks for accessories, the brake problem, and a new clutch cable.

    As far as the brakes are concerned, they are fine now. I took the master cylinder apart and everything was clean and looked good, so I put it back together. I replace the four O-rings in the calipers. They were almost spotless inside. I replace the brake pads for the second time. The rotor is tarnished from getting hot, but it is not warped. I believe the reason why the brakes overheated was because there wasn't any free play in the pedal. When I adjusted the master cylinder rod, I made sure there was about a quarter's (coin) thickness of play.

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