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  1. #31
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    The silicone hoses seem to be of good quality and have a ticker OD than the OEM hoses.

    I am going to look around and see if I can find a silicone lower hose, if not I will replace the lower hose and the oil cooler hose with OEM at some point in the future.

    My front motor mounts were shot.....cant wait to see how it rides with new ones now.

    Another thing you guys might want to take a look at now and then is your Pair Solenoid......both screws that hold mine to the air box went AWOL and my solenoid was hanging in the breeze by its wires.

    I put a little RTD around it and added some thicker screws to keep it in place.

    Amazing what you find when you strip the bike down so you can get in there to have a look around.

    BCS
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  3. #32
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    By the time I get the tank, plastics and intakes back on you will only be able to see maybe an inch or 2 of the hoses.

    They seems like they are decent.....time will tell.

    BCS

  4. #33
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    May be a way to go. I'm gonna change out my hoses over the winter. Have you blocked off your pair valves? Can't remember.


    Will make sure and check all my parts, including the stater

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  6. #34
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingCircus View Post
    May be a way to go. I'm gonna change out my hoses over the winter. Have you blocked off your pair valves? Can't remember.


    Will make sure and check all my parts, including the stater
    Yes I blocked off my pair valves and solenoid using vacuum caps.

    The solenoid was connected to the air box when I capped it off, I was surprised to see it had fallen off today.

    Don't need a hole in the air box for sure..... the way I put it back on, its never going to fall off again.

    BCS

  7. #35
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    Yes I blocked off my pair valves and solenoid using vacuum caps.

    The solenoid was connected to the air box when I capped it off, I was surprised to see it had fallen off today.

    Don't need a hole in the air box for sure..... the way I put it back on, its never going to fall off again.

    BCS

    Ah, ok, makes sense, I'll look at that as well when I get it apart. Gonna do air ride this year so will be all apart again

  8. #36
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    Yes I blocked off my pair valves and solenoid using vacuum caps.

    The solenoid was connected to the air box when I capped it off, I was surprised to see it had fallen off today.

    Don't need a hole in the air box for sure..... the way I put it back on, its never going to fall off again.

    BCS
    Considering all the Mapping work you did using your bike and assuming you are not sure of When the pair valve worked itself loose leaves me to wonder how it affected you maps! Whats your thoughts on this?

  9. #37
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    Considering all the Mapping work you did using your bike and assuming you are not sure of When the pair valve worked itself loose leaves me to wonder how it affected you maps! Whats your thoughts on this?
    Well since my pair is not connected it was not putting air into the exhaust side anyway so no difference there.

    Only difference will be a very small amount of unfiltered air was getting to the throttle bodies through the 5 cent size hole in the air box.

    Probably will not make any difference, but the only tune I have been working on is the same one I am still working on so no big deal.

    I will have the bike back together today and can see if there is any noticeable difference between my revision from a few days ago and the numbers I pull on my next run.

    I doubt I will seen any real difference at all.


    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 11-01-2018 at 10:39 AM.

  10. #38
    Very Active Member nomadx's Avatar
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    I'm sure you'll be up and rolling in no time. You gotta love turning the wrench to dive in that deep. I'm not sure my attention span would allow it.

    Hope it all goes smoothly for you!
    '17 M109R BOSS
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  11. #39
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    The bike is back together, but we got rain yesterday afternoon and last night so I have not taken it out for a ride yet.

    It starts up just fine though, so changing the pick up did the trick.

    Since I had my engine guards off already I decided to keep them off and try out a new intake set up.

    Not sure if I like the look because the filters on each side are offset but I am going to give this a try and see if the ram air effect on these new filters will help me get over that 12 second barrier at the drag track.

    We are going to Bradenton Motor Sports Park on Thursday night to make a few passes, so that gives me this week to mess with the tune a bit.
    (When I can sneak away from working on my house.....I have very little free time until I get this house finished.)

    Also November 25th we have Battle of the Cruisers again at Orlando Speed World.....I really hope this new set up will allow me to be a couple tenths faster so I can try to unseat that little Indian that bumped the M109's out of first place.

    Havent pulled the bike out yet today but will post some pictures later.
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 11-02-2018 at 10:42 AM.

  12. #40
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Well......I only started the bike for a brief moment yesterday just confirm it would turn over and crank......I did not have coolant in the bike yet so as soon as it started I shut it down.

    Just went out and filled the bike with coolant, rolled it out and started it up........it sounded a bit odd when it started, i reached up and tapped the throttle just a bit and the bike shut down......getting the same error code for the Crank Position Sensor again.

    Sensor ohms are ok and I swapped the ECU just rule it out......but still no joy.

    Guess I am going back inside again and see WTF is up.......I may just have to bite the bullet and purchase a brand new stator assembly.

    BCS

  13. #41
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Well opened her back up and same damn thing.....

    Found the pick up knocked from its mount and the retaining clip laying in the case......only this time I found these 2 magnets and these 2 metal clips in the case also.

    No idea where they came from, did not see them the first time I had the cover off and I inspected everything really good.

    Gotta figure out where this stuff came from before I do anything else.

    I put some feelers out to see if anyone knows where this stuff came from and I am looking through the manual now.

    Getting the feeling I may be done riding for a bit, don't have the money or the time right now to play with this to much.

    BCS
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  14. #42
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    I just figured out where they came from and why I have 2 of them.

    They sit between the pick up and the mount bracket.

    I have 2 of them because I had 2 failures.

    Hopefully the first pickup came off by sheer luck and the second got knocked off because the magnet from the 1st one was hitching a ride and came around and smacked it.

    Now I gotta buy a full priced full stator assembly to get the bike going again.

    This is what you call learning the hard way, I suppose.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 11-02-2018 at 05:01 PM.

  15. #43
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Well I got the 2nd busted pickup mounted back and reinstalled. (It still ohmed good so I figured I would give it a shot)

    The bike starts and runs now.....but I have a knock in the lower left side so I shut it down right away..... guess I am going back in a 3rd time to have another look around.

    BCS

  16. #44
    Very Active Member VzrDean1800's Avatar
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    I can send you down a CPS, and stator coil if you need them, lemme know!
    Dean
    Last edited by VzrDean1800; 11-02-2018 at 07:14 PM.

  17. #45
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    Well I got the 2nd busted pickup mounted back and reinstalled. (It still ohmed good so I figured I would give it a shot)

    The bike starts and runs now.....but I have a knock in the lower left side so I shut it down right away..... guess I am going back in a 3rd time to have another look around.

    BCS

    Damn Charles. I guess that's why my week has been going well. Murphy must have headed to Florida for a holiday. He usually doesn't stray to far from me

    Hope you get it figured out without dropping a bunch of money on it

  18. #46
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Well I have had it open 4 times now.

    It starts and runs but I have a terrible knock in the lower left side and if you try to give it any throttle at all the bike dies.

    I have cleaned out everything very well, and I see no damage or any signs of anything making contact to cause the knock. (At least where I can see)

    I either have something seriously wrong in the engine or the damaged pickup has the ECU telling things to function at the wrong times.

    I suppose I will get another complete stator assembly and see if that solves the problem......but my gut tells me there is something much more sinister going on inside.

    BCS

  19. #47
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by VzrDean1800 View Post
    I can send you down a CPS, and stator coil if you need them, lemme know!
    Dean

    Thanks, I am sending you a PM now.

    BCS

  20. #48
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    There must be a shaft attached to rotate the stator. Could that possibly be bent out of alignment and causing vibration to knock the mount of the sensor to fall off?

  21. #49
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    or a bearing or bushing

  22. #50
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    That would be the crank shaft but i really cannot see how I bent the crank shaft, I was riding the bike with my daughter on the back when it went out so I was not being anywhere near as hard on the bike as I usually am.

    I have rotated it for an hour with a socket and ratchet just see if its binding up or if I could see something out of sorts.....but nothing.

    It rotates a full 360 degrees and I can hear or see nothing out of the ordinary with the cover off turning it by hand.
    (But when you put the cover on and start the bike it sounds like its going to come apart)

    I have been hesitant to try and turn the bike over (not start it) to have a look with the generator cover off because the bike has no oil in it at that time.

    IDK, its not hitting the pickup now, the pick up has been fine the last 2 times I pulled the cover and I cannot see where anything else is hitting either......but something is going on to cause the bike have a terrible knock.

    I think I am just going to walk away from it for a few days until I get a new stator assembly here....then I will open it back up again and have another go at it.

    The wife is patting her foot and wanting me to stop messing with the bike and get back to working on the house........happy wife, happy life......so I guess I am setting a shower pan and framing a bathroom tomorrow.....LOL

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 11-03-2018 at 02:03 AM.

  23. #51
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    May have spoke to soon.

    Just went to turn it over once more and it would not start.....its turns over and I hear no knocking when its turning over.

    But now it will not start again and I am getting the same Crank Position Sensor fault via the diagnostics in my tuning software. (The bike has yet to throw a FI fault indication via the idiot light)

    I am draining the oil again now to open it up and see if the pick up got smacked again.

    Its a head scratcher, when the bike is tuning over but not starting everything sounds just fine....no knocking what so ever.

    But when the bike starts it knocks like woodpecker.......when I give a little throttle it dies. (No doubt it took out the pickup when I gave it some throttle which is why the bike died)

    When I open it up this time I think I might just start stripping it down and get ready to pull the damn motor.

    BCS

  24. #52
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    What holds the stator to the shaft?

    It's gotta be wobbling
    Last edited by FlyingCircus; 11-02-2018 at 10:31 PM.

  25. #53
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingCircus View Post
    What holds the stator to the shaft?

    It's gotta be wobbling
    Stator is "stationary", rotor with magnets turns around the stator on the shaft.

    The clearance between them is critical. If the rotor is loose, or a

    bearing holding the rotor is slightly wobbly, the big problem arises.

    Even rotor out of balance could be culprit, but for that there would

    be more then likely visible damage...

    Just my two cents...
    Last edited by thevili; 11-03-2018 at 12:02 AM.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  26. #54
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Motor has to come out of the bike.

    I can hear something slapping when I move the crank back and forth quickly. Sounds like its where the rod connects to the piston.

    Both rods are still connected though, I can see each piston rise and fall in the cylinders when I turn the crank.

    Once I get the motor out and the Jugs off I will have to figure out if I want to fix my motor or I have another motor sitting in my garage and my buddy said he would sell it to me.

    Its a little toasty because it is on a bike that caught fire but I think I can pull my heads and covers off my bike and put them on the toasty motor and it will be fine.

    Time is what I don't have right now though......guess I will just do a little here and there until I have it up and running again. (Might be a while)

    I rode the **** out of it and was about as hard on her as you can be, now my horse is crippled so I am out of the saddle for a while.

    BCS

  27. #55
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Considering the CPS is responsible for a Major Timing function that ties the electrical and mechanical Air and Fuel parts together in a very precise way leaves me with little doubt that by using a Damaged sensor you could be causing the current problems.....

    Im not sure of what caused the first sensor to fail but assuming it was not caused by your tuning equipment (which is very possible no matter how you slice it....remember im just trying to help) what could have caused that to happen? Going by your description "My Present THEORY" is the sensor got overheated which warmed the plastic housing causing it to soften which allowed the sensor to be pulled into the rotating parts. Following this theory leads me to ask if the sensor "Overheating" was something that happened over time or was it a catastrophic failure that happend all at once? Or was it just A bad sensor that failed on its own accord?
    It would be very easy to suspect the 2nd failure to have been caused by the same problem that took the 1st one out which is very possible however the fact that you found the original magnet in the case after the 2nd failure is what has me second guessing this thought! IMHO that is not good enough evidence for me to consider the motor to be bad and I think you need to slow your roll, take a step back and reevaluate the problem after you have some time to think about it before you start tearing the bike apart.

    Have you tried using a drill to rotate the crankshaft to get a better idea of what is going on inside? You might try using a long screw driver or metal bar to use as a "backyard mechanics" Stethoscope to try and pinpoint the source of the noise you are hearing!

  28. #56
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    Considering the CPS is responsible for a Major Timing function that ties the electrical and mechanical Air and Fuel parts together in a very precise way leaves me with little doubt that by using a Damaged sensor you could be causing the current problems.....

    Im not sure of what caused the first sensor to fail but assuming it was not caused by your tuning equipment (which is very possible no matter how you slice it....remember im just trying to help) what could have caused that to happen? Going by your description "My Present THEORY" is the sensor got overheated which warmed the plastic housing causing it to soften which allowed the sensor to be pulled into the rotating parts. Following this theory leads me to ask if the sensor "Overheating" was something that happened over time or was it a catastrophic failure that happend all at once? Or was it just A bad sensor that failed on its own accord?
    It would be very easy to suspect the 2nd failure to have been caused by the same problem that took the 1st one out which is very possible however the fact that you found the original magnet in the case after the 2nd failure is what has me second guessing this thought! IMHO that is not good enough evidence for me to consider the motor to be bad and I think you need to slow your roll, take a step back and reevaluate the problem after you have some time to think about it before you start tearing the bike apart.

    Have you tried using a drill to rotate the crankshaft to get a better idea of what is going on inside? You might try using a long screw driver or metal bar to use as a "backyard mechanics" Stethoscope to try and pinpoint the source of the noise you are hearing!
    A slapping and knocking in the motor is enough evidence for me to consider that the motor has a problem.

    I am now convinced that this has been the cause of the problem all along.

    The pickup should not overheat....its only a pickup and does not carry any real current.

    Its getting smacked by the rotor when you try to give the bike the slightest amount of throttle.

    BCS

  29. #57
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    A slapping and knocking in the motor is enough evidence for me to consider that the motor has a problem.

    I am now convinced that this has been the cause of the problem all along.

    The pickup should not overheat....its only a pickup and does not carry any real current.

    Its getting smacked by the rotor when you try to give the bike the slightest amount of throttle.

    BCS
    Well I never said the motor doesn't have a Problem, i was just saying that i dont think you have enough Evidence to warrant pulling the motor at this point, However you do know best since you are there and im over the net just "Guessing" at things! But just for $h!+$ and giggles I posted these 2 links that i think you might find a bit helpful. If not no biggie as I Said, Im just trying to help!

    Yes these are more so directed towards a Car motor but thats A PatAto- PoTaTO type difference and doesnt make much difference in how the systems work....

    https://carfromjapan.com/article/car...nsor-symptoms/

    https://www.doityourself.com/stry/7-...ilure-symptoms

    To add to my theory.......it may have been a complete coincidence however the fact that your pair valve solenoid also came loose from its mount really has me thinking you have an electrical problem that is causing your sensors to overheat, This explains how both came loose!
    Are those 2 sensors somehow linked? Maybe you have a Short in that circuit?
    Has your Motor been running hotter then normal?
    Last edited by Latinrascal; 11-03-2018 at 12:19 PM.

  30. #58
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    Well I never said the motor doesn't have a Problem, i was just saying that i dont think you have enough Evidence to warrant pulling the motor at this point, However you do know best since you are there and im over the net just "Guessing" at things! But just for $h!+$ and giggles I posted these 2 links that i think you might find a bit helpful. If not no biggie as I Said, Im just trying to help!

    Yes these are more so directed towards a Car motor but thats A PatAto- PoTaTO type difference and doesnt make much difference in how the systems work....

    https://carfromjapan.com/article/car...nsor-symptoms/

    https://www.doityourself.com/stry/7-...ilure-symptoms

    To add to my theory.......it may have been a complete coincidence however the fact that your pair valve solenoid also came loose from its mount really has me thinking you have an electrical problem that is causing your sensors to overheat, This explains how both came loose!
    Are those 2 sensors somehow linked? Maybe you have a Short in that circuit?
    Has your Motor been running hotter then normal?
    The small screws came out of the pair valve solenoid, nothing is wrong with it.

    BCS

  31. #59
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    The small screws came out of the pair valve solenoid, nothing is wrong with it.

    BCS
    Alrighty then......Have fun swapping that motor

  32. #60
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    Alrighty then......Have fun swapping that motor
    Yep

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