The GLORIOUS Clutch MOD! Step by step how-to!!
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Thread: The GLORIOUS Clutch MOD! Step by step how-to!!

  1. #1

    Default The GLORIOUS Clutch MOD! Step by step how-to!!

    Hey guys and gals! A customer of mine came in with a chattery clutch. It took a LOT of research to finally narrow it down. Then I found this site you guys have here. Thank you for all the great information and ideas. I could not, however, find a step-by-step how to. So, being a firm believer in paying back favors, I created a step-by-step writeup for the M109r Clutch mod. Complete with the newer model updated parts and clutch pin oil-flow modification. So, thanks for all the good advice, enjoy the write-up!

    Sincerely,
    Jason

    https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?...1750232&type=3

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    Great first post, Jason! Maybe one of the guys here can get the write up inserted into the thread in case the link ever dies?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Macd7919 View Post
    Great first post, Jason! Maybe one of the guys here can get the write up inserted into the thread in case the link ever dies?
    YES! Good idea. I was going to do it, but seriously it took me an hour to do the writeup and I don't have much time today.

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    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Great job. And thanks for sharing on your first post.

    Welcome to the forum

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    Thanks for the write up. Always good to have info. I want to mention a couple things as a few of us have been fixing these for close to 10 years now. If the bike simply has shudder, you only need to modify the pin and could put it back in, adjust and be done with no shudder providing the #6 plate has no grooves in it. I just did one 2 days ago and that was damaged. If that is the case, and the clutch is fine, you only need to change that out or flip it over, a wave washer and a wave washer seat and put it back together. I have fixed probably over 30 of them that way and it will immediately get rid of the shudder. This is the cheapest way.

    Now, with all that being said, upgrading to a 2011 or later clutch is night and day difference. In terms of shudder it has nothing to do with fixing that but the way the clutch feels at the lever is amazing. It makes it about 50% less pull on your hands.
    Formerly known as BigpapaM109

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    Very Active Member futurR's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigpapaXCT View Post
    Thanks for the write up. Always good to have info. I want to mention a couple things as a few of us have been fixing these for close to 10 years now. If the bike simply has shudder, you only need to modify the pin and could put it back in, adjust and be done with no shudder providing the #6 plate has no grooves in it. I just did one 2 days ago and that was damaged. If that is the case, and the clutch is fine, you only need to change that out or flip it over, a wave washer and a wave washer seat and put it back together. I have fixed probably over 30 of them that way and it will immediately get rid of the shudder. This is the cheapest way.

    Now, with all that being said, upgrading to a 2011 or later clutch is night and day difference. In terms of shudder it has nothing to do with fixing that but the way the clutch feels at the lever is amazing. It makes it about 50% less pull on your hands.
    Just to stress again what this on/off again member said above (maybe he should be snipped), those 3 parts are all that is need changed on a 2010 and earlier clutch pack. If you have shudder/chatter, then that #6 plate is already worn and has a groove in it----which is why the problem has occurred. The real cause is lack of oiling on the moving metal parts.

    Now where I have a slight difference of thought is with the updated 2011 parts. Not sure how it can feel any difference if the tension and throw is not changed. Meaning, if the clutch pressure plate springs are not changed and the clutch lever/perch is still the same, then the tension at the lever has not changed. Can not see how any difference of "feel" at the lever would be any different. Not trying to "rock the thought" of the upgrade, but the physics of the mechanics have not change. So I would entertain a theory on the idea.
    I am almost always working on a bike. If you have questions and need an answer quickly, just call me. 317-507-0940. Always up late. There will be time for sleep when I am dead!

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    Spring tension is the reason it feels better. And yes I need to be snipped. Lmao

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    Very Active Member 58vwragtop's Avatar
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    I have been fighting my clutch slipping a bit under hard acceleration for the past year or so. This pin mod must be the issue. I am going to be replacing the clutch or at least look at it in the next couple weeks. I have a 2006 model, so should I replace it with a "newer" style clutch with the extra disc? If so what are ALL the parts I need to convert it?
    Thanks
    Burple, Goldwing intake mod, Vrod exhaust mod with supertrapp baffle mod, K&N filters, LE tail light, debeavered, Lowered, ARTE, Fi2000 auto tune, and tons of other mods!!!

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    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 58vwragtop View Post
    I have been fighting my clutch slipping a bit under hard acceleration for the past year or so. This pin mod must be the issue. I am going to be replacing the clutch or at least look at it in the next couple weeks. I have a 2006 model, so should I replace it with a "newer" style clutch with the extra disc? If so what are ALL the parts I need to convert it?
    Thanks
    Just something to think about here.......Its more likely for your worn motor mounts to be causing the motor to sag enough to pull on the cable enough to cause a slippage. The issue with the clutch being discussed above is "Clutch Shudder" issue caused by a lack of sufficient oil flow through the clutch pack which is why the pin is ground down to increase oil flow. This is very different then a Slippage issue so be sure you are addressing the correct Problem with the correct fix!
    Last edited by Latinrascal; 09-03-2018 at 10:57 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    Just something to think about here.......Its more likely for your worn motor mounts to be causing the motor to sag enough to pull on the cable enough to cause a slippage. The issue with the clutch being discussed above is "Clutch Shudder" issue caused by a lack of sufficient oil flow through the clutch pack which is why the pin is ground down to increase oil flow. This is very different then a Slippage issue so be sure you are addressing the correct Problem with the correct fix!

    I replaced my motor mounts a few years ago. I put the harder mount in the front also to help avoid the motor mount sag problem. I just have the issue under a hard quick acceleration I get like a slippage feel and didn't know if the clutch pin mod would help out. So I figured I'd tear into it this week but while I was in there I might as well put new clutch in and wanted to put the newer style in with the extra plate and springs.
    Burple, Goldwing intake mod, Vrod exhaust mod with supertrapp baffle mod, K&N filters, LE tail light, debeavered, Lowered, ARTE, Fi2000 auto tune, and tons of other mods!!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by 58vwragtop View Post
    I replaced my motor mounts a few years ago. I put the harder mount in the front also to help avoid the motor mount sag problem. I just have the issue under a hard quick acceleration I get like a slippage feel and didn't know if the clutch pin mod would help out. So I figured I'd tear into it this week but while I was in there I might as well put new clutch in and wanted to put the newer style in with the extra plate and springs.
    The clutch pin mod won't help you there. Chances are that you have one of two problems. The first problem is your clutch lever is adjusted too tight, or has been in the past. Once you hurt the clutch, it just gets progressively worse until it needs to be done. Upgrading to the newer clutch is night and day difference, although Matt is unsure how. LOL It is pretty expensive with all the parts. If you open up your clutch now, and all of your steel plates are not blued or showing heat/burning issues, you can get away with the cheaper fix by just doing the 7 plates (2 drive plates & 5 fiber plates). Let me know if you want to go the newer way and i can grab the parts list I have saved somewhere.
    Formerly known as BigpapaM109

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    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 58vwragtop View Post
    I replaced my motor mounts a few years ago. I put the harder mount in the front also to help avoid the motor mount sag problem. I just have the issue under a hard quick acceleration I get like a slippage feel and didn't know if the clutch pin mod would help out. So I figured I'd tear into it this week but while I was in there I might as well put new clutch in and wanted to put the newer style in with the extra plate and springs.
    As My Response I would parrot Big Papas above statement completely.

    The Clutch Is most likely now in need of replacement which is now causing the slippage and will need to be addressed and if you have the desire to Upgrade and money is not a problem then by all means Now it the Time to change it all out to a brand new unit, grind the pin, loctite the tube nut close'er up and be done with it but if you have a budget like most people do then Bigpapas Advice is spot on.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    As My Response I would parrot Big Papas above statement completely.

    The Clutch Is most likely now in need of replacement which is now causing the slippage and will need to be addressed and if you have the desire to Upgrade and money is not a problem then by all means Now it the Time to change it all out to a brand new unit, grind the pin, loctite the tube nut close'er up and be done with it but if you have a budget like most people do then Bigpapas Advice is spot on.
    My advice is almost always spot on . Well not true but it was worth throwing it out there.
    Formerly known as BigpapaM109

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    Quote Originally Posted by bigpapaXCT View Post
    My advice is almost always spot on . Well not true but it was worth throwing it out there.
    Well It may Not "Always" be Spot on it Usually comes Pretty Darn Close and it is Always Honest so I got to give you that!

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    Lmao!
    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    Well It may Not "Always" be Spot on it Usually comes Pretty Darn Close and it is Always Honest so I got to give you that!
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigpapaXCT View Post
    The clutch pin mod won't help you there. Chances are that you have one of two problems. The first problem is your clutch lever is adjusted too tight, or has been in the past. Once you hurt the clutch, it just gets progressively worse until it needs to be done. Upgrading to the newer clutch is night and day difference, although Matt is unsure how. LOL It is pretty expensive with all the parts. If you open up your clutch now, and all of your steel plates are not blued or showing heat/burning issues, you can get away with the cheaper fix by just doing the 7 plates (2 drive plates & 5 fiber plates). Let me know if you want to go the newer way and i can grab the parts list I have saved somewhere.
    The only reason I am unsure how is due to all the people saying to go with the upgraded clutch plates--- say nothing about replacing the springs--- nor using the newer spring part number for those plates. Yes, they are different part numbers between the years clutch pack sets. Obviously the newer spring part number has less compressed pressure--- hence the feel. I have looked at both service manuals years and both have zero info on the compression testing for either spring part number---so no way to verify what they have done.

    The positive side of that would be in a performance application needing a stiffer spring. The older spring part number could be used in that scenario, rather than going with an aftermarket spring that could be too stiff.

    So, as to not being sure how there is a difference, is because no one has been telling the to change the spring also. Those involved missed my point. There can be zero difference of feel at the lever if the springs are not changed also--- otherwise the feel is the same.
    I am almost always working on a bike. If you have questions and need an answer quickly, just call me. 317-507-0940. Always up late. There will be time for sleep when I am dead!

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    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by futurR View Post
    The only reason I am unsure how is due to all the people saying to go with the upgraded clutch plates--- say nothing about replacing the springs--- nor using the newer spring part number for those plates. Yes, they are different part numbers between the years clutch pack sets. Obviously the newer spring part number has less compressed pressure--- hence the feel. I have looked at both service manuals years and both have zero info on the compression testing for either spring part number---so no way to verify what they have done.

    The positive side of that would be in a performance application needing a stiffer spring. The older spring part number could be used in that scenario, rather than going with an aftermarket spring that could be too stiff.

    So, as to not being sure how there is a difference, is because no one has been telling the to change the spring also. Those involved missed my point. There can be zero difference of feel at the lever if the springs are not changed also--- otherwise the feel is the same.
    So the Updated Clutch pack does In Fact have Softer Springs based on the softer feel one gets When and Only When the springs are Also updated? Considering they added an additional clutch plate this makes sense. The engineers should have been able to reduce the required spring compression strength while probably improving the Clutchs Engagement strength in the process.

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    Quote Originally Posted by futurR View Post
    The only reason I am unsure how is due to all the people saying to go with the upgraded clutch plates--- say nothing about replacing the springs--- nor using the newer spring part number for those plates. Yes, they are different part numbers between the years clutch pack sets. Obviously the newer spring part number has less compressed pressure--- hence the feel. I have looked at both service manuals years and both have zero info on the compression testing for either spring part number---so no way to verify what they have done.

    The positive side of that would be in a performance application needing a stiffer spring. The older spring part number could be used in that scenario, rather than going with an aftermarket spring that could be too stiff.

    So, as to not being sure how there is a difference, is because no one has been telling the to change the spring also. Those involved missed my point. There can be zero difference of feel at the lever if the springs are not changed also--- otherwise the feel is the same.
    In the original thread by rainey, he mentioned you need to change out the 6 springs.
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    Quote Originally Posted by bigpapaXCT View Post
    In the original thread by rainey, he mentioned you need to change out the 6 springs.
    While that maybe true, all others suggesting the upgrade are just saying that they just need to upgrade to the newer clutch plates. Which makes my point. Miss information can cause issues. There is more to the upgrade than just plates. Also, the older clutch part numbers cost like $270 w/o springs ( 6x $6.60= $39.60) and the newer numbers are like $340.00 w/o springs (6x $5.05=$30.30). The wave washer, seat, and #6 drive plate are shared between the two sets.
    I am almost always working on a bike. If you have questions and need an answer quickly, just call me. 317-507-0940. Always up late. There will be time for sleep when I am dead!

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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    So the Updated Clutch pack does In Fact have Softer Springs based on the softer feel one gets When and Only When the springs are Also updated? Considering they added an additional clutch plate this makes sense. The engineers should have been able to reduce the required spring compression strength while probably improving the Clutchs Engagement strength in the process.
    That is what Matt was referring to. If you don't update the springs then it will feel equal or possibly worse. Mary has it and I rode it last night and it is fantastic. I can 2 finger squeeze it with no effort. She has about 7500 miles on it so far and is a lot happier.

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    Gotcha. Makes sense. I have given out the parts list and done 4 of them and everyone I have included the springs. Didnt realize people were not giving correct info.
    Quote Originally Posted by futurR View Post
    While that maybe true, all others suggesting the upgrade are just saying that they just need to upgrade to the newer clutch plates. Which makes my point. Miss information can cause issues. There is more to the upgrade than just plates. Also, the older clutch part numbers cost like $270 w/o springs ( 6x $6.60= $39.60) and the newer numbers are like $340.00 w/o springs (6x $5.05=$30.30). The wave washer, seat, and #6 drive plate are shared between the two sets.
    Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
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