Counteract Balancing Beads
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Thread: Counteract Balancing Beads

  1. #1
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    Default Counteract Balancing Beads

    Anyone have any opinions towards counteract balancing beads inside of a tire rather than balancing it with weights

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    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClintO View Post
    Anyone have any opinions towards counteract balancing beads inside of a tire rather than balancing it with weights
    I have the beads on both of my Nines, and all is perfect.

    My aftermarket wheels came with beads already in the tires.

    The other nine has OEM rims with larger tires, that's when

    I discarded weights and replaced with beads.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    I have the beads on both of my Nines, and all is perfect.

    My aftermarket wheels came with beads already in the tires.

    The other nine has OEM rims with larger tires, that's when

    I discarded weights and replaced with beads.
    Which brand of beads do you have?

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    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClintO View Post
    Which brand of beads do you have?
    Into the OEM rim tires I put in Counteract beads.

    I am not sure which brand is in my Coastal Moto wheels.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

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    Radio Active Member rynosback's Avatar
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    I ran beads for over 25k. Not just does it balance the wheel, it eliminates wheel weights on the rim. A much cleaner look.
    Bang for the Buck Mods link CLICK HERE
    Coming to a city near you..

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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    I have ran 4 sets or tires now, at 55k mile and have ran beads in all of them without issue. Ill see if i can find the web page.

    http://www.innovativebalancing.com/mobile/

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
    Last edited by M109Dreamer; 05-25-2018 at 07:19 PM.

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    Very Active Member k109's Avatar
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    Balance beads are the only way to go,no way would I put weights on my chrome aftermarket rims would look like ****
    06 custom, dripping in chrome....lowered front and rear ....160/280....custom paint....:BOTM AUG 2014

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    Very Active Member JUDAH-9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ClintO View Post
    Which brand of beads do you have?
    The majority of members here use the Dyna Beads, but there are others who use a different brand. Iíve been running Dyna Beads on my 9s since 2009, and Iíve never had anything but great success with them. Using any brand of balancing beads will clean up the unsightly look of having those gaudy wheels weights sitting on the outside, in open view of your wheels. Iím sure either the Dyna Beads or Counteract Beads will provide great balancing for your wheels.

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    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Ride On here.

    So far so good and the added safety of tire sealant

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    Very Active Member Weedahoe's Avatar
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    I run them both in my bike and in my truck (325/45/24) because on my truck it is the only way to balance them.

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    Very Active Member NoSetFine's Avatar
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    Reviving an older thread, but the title was perfect, rather than start a new one with similar info.

    I have a 160 front, currently with normal weights, which gets an uncomfortable wobble just before/around 160kmh/100mph which the 130 stock never had (at any speed). The install shop was nervous even installing the 160 in the first place, so I don't want to go back to them to fix the balance, they will no doubt just blame the tire, rightly or wrongly. PSI tweaking didn't seem to fix it so I just ordered Counter Act (Counteract) beads.

    I ordered 2oz/3oz based on tire size.

    QUESTIONS:
    • Seems obvious but, best practice would be to remove all the existing "normal" weights then put the beads in I'm guessing?
    • And you just put all the beads in? i.e. the full 2oz in front and 3oz in the back?
    • Any tips on how to remove the existing weights safely and cleanly?
    • Forgive me if this is all in the instructions, I don't have the kit yet but was thinking/planning what I need to know in advance.



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    You would remove the weights. It’s been awhile, but I believe the beads have a specific amount for tire size. I know the ride on does for sure. I’m using that product for the first time. Don’t have any feedback as of yet since I’m not done with my build and haven’t rode the bike yet. I’ve used beads successfully on my past set ups, including my current 40” tires on my truck

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    Very Active Member JUDAH-9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoSetFine View Post
    Reviving an older thread, but the title was perfect, rather than start a new one with similar info.

    I have a 160 front, currently with normal weights, which gets an uncomfortable wobble just before/around 160kmh/100mph which the 130 stock never had (at any speed). The install shop was nervous even installing the 160 in the first place, so I don't want to go back to them to fix the balance, they will no doubt just blame the tire, rightly or wrongly. PSI tweaking didn't seem to fix it so I just ordered Counter Act (Counteract) beads.

    I ordered 2oz/3oz based on tire size.

    QUESTIONS:
    • Seems obvious but, best practice would be to remove all the existing "normal" weights then put the beads in I'm guessing?
    • And you just put all the beads in? i.e. the full 2oz in front and 3oz in the back?
    • Any tips on how to remove the existing weights safely and cleanly?
    • Forgive me if this is all in the instructions, I don't have the kit yet but was thinking/planning what I need to know in advance.

    NSF, the amounts/size bags you ordered are correct.

    1. It really doesnít matter whether you remove the wheel weights first or not...as long as you donít try riding the bike with both installed.

    2. Yes, 2oz in front tire and 3oz in rear tire.

    3. You can use any product that breaks down and removes sticky tape like residue. Something like a product called Goo-Gone. Thereís tons out there. You can even use Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid to break down the adhesive thatís underneath the wheel weights.

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    Very Active Member Poseidon's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by NoSetFine View Post
    Reviving an older thread, but the title was perfect, rather than start a new one with similar info.

    I have a 160 front, currently with normal weights, which gets an uncomfortable wobble just before/around 160kmh/100mph which the 130 stock never had (at any speed). The install shop was nervous even installing the 160 in the first place, so I don't want to go back to them to fix the balance, they will no doubt just blame the tire, rightly or wrongly. PSI tweaking didn't seem to fix it so I just ordered Counter Act (Counteract) beads.

    I ordered 2oz/3oz based on tire size.

    QUESTIONS:
    • Seems obvious but, best practice would be to remove all the existing "normal" weights then put the beads in I'm guessing?
    • And you just put all the beads in? i.e. the full 2oz in front and 3oz in the back?
    • Any tips on how to remove the existing weights safely and cleanly?
    • Forgive me if this is all in the instructions, I don't have the kit yet but was thinking/planning what I need to know in advance.

    I use counteract beads on all my bikes. They work great. Much easier to put them in the tire before you set the bead. Pouring them in through the valve stem is a real PITA!!!

    theoretically, you could run beads and your wheel weights, however, I have read where too much weight can cause vibrations at speed. Especially on steeper raked bikes like sport bikes. If you have the factory pinch weights on the center line of the wheel, just pry them open with a screwdriver. If you have stick on weights, just peal them off and use goo-gone to remove the adhesive. Brake fluid might do the trick also, but I would be concerned that it might damage or even remove the finish on your wheels. I wouldn’t risk it personally. Plenty of products out there designed to remove adhesive without damaging the finish.
    Last edited by Poseidon; 3 Days Ago at 06:17 AM.

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    Very Active Member JUDAH-9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Poseidon View Post
    I use counteract beads on all my bikes. They work great. Much easier to put them in the tire before you set the bead. Pouring them in through the valve stem is a real PITA!!!

    theoretically, you could run beads and your wheel weights, however, I have read where too much weight can cause vibrations at speed. Especially on steeper raked bikes like sport bikes. If you have the factory pinch weights on the center line of the wheel, just pry them open with a screwdriver. If you have stick on weights, just peal them off and use goo-gone to remove the adhesive. Brake fluid might do the trick also, but I would be concerned that it might damage or even remove the finish on your wheels. I wouldnít risk it personally. Plenty of products out there designed to remove adhesive without damaging the finish.
    The theory you mentioned sounds like a bit of a contradiction P. Additionally, I donít know why anyone would want to run two types of wheel balancing products simultaneously. However, I realize people do all sorts of strange things. With using Brake Fluid to remove the adhesive, you donít apply it and let it sit for a long period of time. You apply it to a cloth, and massage it into the adhesive while slowly applying more pressure to remove the adhesive. Iíve used it in the past to remove adhesive on the fairing pieces and tanks of at least 3 of my previous sport bikes and my 07í M109R, and it did absolutely nothing to the clear coat or the paint. Afterward, I used warm, soapy water to clean those areas really well, and subsequently waxed and polished the entire bike. Iím very sure it wouldnít damage the coating on an M109R stock wheel...providing it was applied sparingly to remove the adhesive.

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    Very Active Member hunt1moore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    You would remove the weights. Itís been awhile, but I believe the beads have a specific amount for tire size. I know the ride on does for sure. Iím using that product for the first time. Donít have any feedback as of yet since Iím not done with my build and havenít rode the bike yet. Iíve used beads successfully on my past set ups, including my current 40Ē tires on my truck
    Hopefully you did the "break-in" of at least 5 miles after installing the Ride-On.
    Personally I love the Ride-On and have been using it successfully for many years and tires.

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    Oh ****, break in? That would be a strong no. The tire was mounted and the shop did the ride on for me. The bike has been sitting since then, hasn’t moved an inch. I’ve been finishing up a bunch of stuff on it.

    This is the first time I have used ride on, and it was suggested by the shop that mounted the tire. I’ve always been a bead guy.

    So what does the break in do and what will be the issue now after it has sat? I have two bottles sitting here waiting to do the front wheel

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    Very Active Member DutchM1800R2's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bigpapa View Post
    So what does the break in do and what will be the issue now after it has sat?
    Donít think there will be an issue, this is from their website..

    Ride-On Tire Protection tire sealant contains specially selected binders to help it adhere to the inner surface of the tire. If a tire treated with Ride-On is stored for a prolonged period of time, some of the Ride-On may eventually pool in the bottom of the tire. Once the vehicle is driven for 3 to 5 miles, Ride-On will again re-coat the inner tire surface. Note: the tire may briefly vibrate until Ride-On has had a chance to evenly coat the tire. When Ride-On has re-coated the tire, there should be no further balancing problems.

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    Very Active Member NoSetFine's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JUDAH-9 View Post
    NSF, the amounts/size bags you ordered are correct.

    1. It really doesnít matter whether you remove the wheel weights first or not...as long as you donít try riding the bike with both installed.

    2. Yes, 2oz in front tire and 3oz in rear tire.

    3. You can use any product that breaks down and removes sticky tape like residue. Something like a product called Goo-Gone. Thereís tons out there. You can even use Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid to break down the adhesive thatís underneath the wheel weights.
    Quote Originally Posted by Poseidon View Post
    I use counteract beads on all my bikes. They work great. Much easier to put them in the tire before you set the bead. Pouring them in through the valve stem is a real PITA!!! ...
    Awesome, thanks guys and everyone who replied. The beads arrived yesterday. Looking forward to spending a couple hours this weekend maybe swapping weights for beads and hoping my experience matches what everyone else seems to say is largely a positive one.


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