Anyone have any opinions towards counteract balancing beads inside of a tire rather than balancing it with weights
Counteract Balancing Beads
Anyone have any opinions towards counteract balancing beads inside of a tire rather than balancing it with weights
I have the beads on both of my Nines, and all is perfect.Originally Posted by ClintO
My aftermarket wheels came with beads already in the tires.
The other nine has OEM rims with larger tires, that's when
I discarded weights and replaced with beads.
Which brand of beads do you have?
Into the OEM rim tires I put in Counteract beads.
I am not sure which brand is in my Coastal Moto wheels.
I ran beads for over 25k. Not just does it balance the wheel, it eliminates wheel weights on the rim. A much cleaner look.
I have ran 4 sets or tires now, at 55k mile and have ran beads in all of them without issue. Ill see if i can find the web page.
http://www.innovativebalancing.com/mobile/
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Last edited by M109Dreamer; 05-25-2018 at 07:19 PM.
Balance beads are the only way to go,no way would I put weights on my chrome aftermarket rims would look like ****
06 custom, dripping in chrome....lowered front and rear ....160/280....custom paint....:BOTM AUG 2014
The majority of members here use the Dyna Beads, but there are others who use a different brand. I’ve been running Dyna Beads on my 9s since 2009, and I’ve never had anything but great success with them. Using any brand of balancing beads will clean up the unsightly look of having those gaudy wheels weights sitting on the outside, in open view of your wheels. I’m sure either the Dyna Beads or Counteract Beads will provide great balancing for your wheels.
Ride On here.
So far so good and the added safety of tire sealant
I run them both in my bike and in my truck (325/45/24) because on my truck it is the only way to balance them.
Reviving an older thread, but the title was perfect, rather than start a new one with similar info.
I have a 160 front, currently with normal weights, which gets an uncomfortable wobble just before/around 160kmh/100mph which the 130 stock never had (at any speed). The install shop was nervous even installing the 160 in the first place, so I don't want to go back to them to fix the balance, they will no doubt just blame the tire, rightly or wrongly. PSI tweaking didn't seem to fix it so I just ordered Counter Act (Counteract) beads.
I ordered 2oz/3oz based on tire size.
QUESTIONS:
- Seems obvious but, best practice would be to remove all the existing "normal" weights then put the beads in I'm guessing?
- And you just put all the beads in? i.e. the full 2oz in front and 3oz in the back?
- Any tips on how to remove the existing weights safely and cleanly?
- Forgive me if this is all in the instructions, I don't have the kit yet but was thinking/planning what I need to know in advance.
You would remove the weights. It’s been awhile, but I believe the beads have a specific amount for tire size. I know the ride on does for sure. I’m using that product for the first time. Don’t have any feedback as of yet since I’m not done with my build and haven’t rode the bike yet. I’ve used beads successfully on my past set ups, including my current 40” tires on my truck
NSF, the amounts/size bags you ordered are correct.Reviving an older thread, but the title was perfect, rather than start a new one with similar info.
I have a 160 front, currently with normal weights, which gets an uncomfortable wobble just before/around 160kmh/100mph which the 130 stock never had (at any speed). The install shop was nervous even installing the 160 in the first place, so I don't want to go back to them to fix the balance, they will no doubt just blame the tire, rightly or wrongly. PSI tweaking didn't seem to fix it so I just ordered Counter Act (Counteract) beads.
I ordered 2oz/3oz based on tire size.
QUESTIONS:
- Seems obvious but, best practice would be to remove all the existing "normal" weights then put the beads in I'm guessing?
- And you just put all the beads in? i.e. the full 2oz in front and 3oz in the back?
- Any tips on how to remove the existing weights safely and cleanly?
- Forgive me if this is all in the instructions, I don't have the kit yet but was thinking/planning what I need to know in advance.
1. It really doesn’t matter whether you remove the wheel weights first or not...as long as you don’t try riding the bike with both installed.
2. Yes, 2oz in front tire and 3oz in rear tire.
3. You can use any product that breaks down and removes sticky tape like residue. Something like a product called Goo-Gone. There’s tons out there. You can even use Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid to break down the adhesive that’s underneath the wheel weights.
I use counteract beads on all my bikes. They work great. Much easier to put them in the tire before you set the bead. Pouring them in through the valve stem is a real PITA!!!Reviving an older thread, but the title was perfect, rather than start a new one with similar info.
I have a 160 front, currently with normal weights, which gets an uncomfortable wobble just before/around 160kmh/100mph which the 130 stock never had (at any speed). The install shop was nervous even installing the 160 in the first place, so I don't want to go back to them to fix the balance, they will no doubt just blame the tire, rightly or wrongly. PSI tweaking didn't seem to fix it so I just ordered Counter Act (Counteract) beads.
I ordered 2oz/3oz based on tire size.
QUESTIONS:
- Seems obvious but, best practice would be to remove all the existing "normal" weights then put the beads in I'm guessing?
- And you just put all the beads in? i.e. the full 2oz in front and 3oz in the back?
- Any tips on how to remove the existing weights safely and cleanly?
- Forgive me if this is all in the instructions, I don't have the kit yet but was thinking/planning what I need to know in advance.
theoretically, you could run beads and your wheel weights, however, I have read where too much weight can cause vibrations at speed. Especially on steeper raked bikes like sport bikes. If you have the factory pinch weights on the center line of the wheel, just pry them open with a screwdriver. If you have stick on weights, just peal them off and use goo-gone to remove the adhesive. Brake fluid might do the trick also, but I would be concerned that it might damage or even remove the finish on your wheels. I wouldn’t risk it personally. Plenty of products out there designed to remove adhesive without damaging the finish.
Last edited by Poseidon; 07-13-2019 at 06:17 AM.
The theory you mentioned sounds like a bit of a contradiction P. Additionally, I don’t know why anyone would want to run two types of wheel balancing products simultaneously. However, I realize people do all sorts of strange things. With using Brake Fluid to remove the adhesive, you don’t apply it and let it sit for a long period of time. You apply it to a cloth, and massage it into the adhesive while slowly applying more pressure to remove the adhesive. I’ve used it in the past to remove adhesive on the fairing pieces and tanks of at least 3 of my previous sport bikes and my 07’ M109R, and it did absolutely nothing to the clear coat or the paint. Afterward, I used warm, soapy water to clean those areas really well, and subsequently waxed and polished the entire bike. I’m very sure it wouldn’t damage the coating on an M109R stock wheel...providing it was applied sparingly to remove the adhesive.
Hopefully you did the "break-in" of at least 5 miles after installing the Ride-On.
Personally I love the Ride-On and have been using it successfully for many years and tires.
Oh ****, break in? That would be a strong no. The tire was mounted and the shop did the ride on for me. The bike has been sitting since then, hasn’t moved an inch. I’ve been finishing up a bunch of stuff on it.
This is the first time I have used ride on, and it was suggested by the shop that mounted the tire. I’ve always been a bead guy.
So what does the break in do and what will be the issue now after it has sat? I have two bottles sitting here waiting to do the front wheel
Don’t think there will be an issue, this is from their website..Ride-On Tire Protection tire sealant contains specially selected binders to help it adhere to the inner surface of the tire. If a tire treated with Ride-On is stored for a prolonged period of time, some of the Ride-On may eventually pool in the bottom of the tire. Once the vehicle is driven for 3 to 5 miles, Ride-On will again re-coat the inner tire surface. Note: the tire may briefly vibrate until Ride-On has had a chance to evenly coat the tire. When Ride-On has re-coated the tire, there should be no further balancing problems.
Awesome, thanks guys and everyone who replied. The beads arrived yesterday. Looking forward to spending a couple hours this weekend maybe swapping weights for beads and hoping my experience matches what everyone else seems to say is largely a positive one.
FANF*NTASTIC.
Just did Counteract. Took about 10mins per tire using "puffer bottle" as provided and instructed, no problems.
Ripped the weights off and GooGone'd the sticky ones.
Smooth. As. Silk.
Previous wild wobbles at various speeds are gone - its like butter (tested up to 160kmh/100mph). I didn't realize how bad it was until now that it's gone.
Big ride planned for Wednesday for bigger test but so far, fantastic product. Wish I had just done them from the start.
Oh! One minor complication. I couldnt use their valve (red one). Wouldn't fit in my stem.
Another big plus with beads is they keep the tire in perfect balance as the tire wears. You will lose balance with tire weights as the tire wears.
H.C. Velocity Pro, Cobra Power Pro Black, Cobra Engine Guards, ISO Blk Grips, National Cycle VStream Tour, Kuryakyn Switchblade Pegs, G/M TRE, .....
COUNTERACT - LONGER USE UPDATE
An update in case someone reads this thread later and misses THIS one (https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sh...=1#post3990878).
Beads aren't magic.
They are barely, "pick-a-card-any-card."
They are... ok.
So my initial enthusiasm is still *mostly* true:
- Still did the job... mostly
- Still removed the ugly weights from my rims
- Still was easy to install
HOWEVER - the update now includes:
- Very bad wobble which gets wildly worse over 140kmh/85mph
- I have discovered I am NOT the only one experiencing this.
- CounterAct company rep response was... less than inspiring.
- Will be a HUGE p.i.t.a. to correct.
- Considering switching to RideOn Slime, but need to do some more research.
- Overall... I thought it was a turkey dinner but it's just a ham sandwich. Very disappointed at the new hassles I now face if I want the same stability I had with stock rubber and stock weights.
Caveat Emptor.
Just a really long term update for anyone else that reads this.
I have been using beads in all my bikes and all my customers bikes (too many to count) for 12yrs now. Yet I have never received one complaint of any sort and I have zero complaints. Just a good product, no wheel weights, no wobble at any speed, no cleaning up the rim covered with slime when we change tires, and the beads can be used again in the next tire.
I am almost always working on a bike. If you have questions and need an answer quickly, just call me. 317-507-0940. Always up late. There will be time for sleep when I am dead!
See... now... THIS is exactly why I went with the beads in the first place. Everything I read about them said they were as you have found, but now I'm like, WTH?! And then when I found the other riders suffering essentially identical issues, and the company being basically no help at all, it was a bit of a kick in the zipper.
So with 160/250 I used 2oz/3oz as suggested - now the company suggests maybe I should use less (not MORE as the physics would make it worse...makes sense). I also read somewhere else that it was someone's rim or a bad bead seat (wrinkle), but I don't see any wrinkles and I didn't have this problem with the stock 130 so I don't suspect the rim.
Is there something you are doing that I may have done differently? I jacked the bike, deflated the tires, filled them as directed, pumped them back up... now the front rides like crap.
Would love to love them!
I would have went with the amount you did. However, maybe a small amount more in the front and a bit less in the rear--- but you should not have the issues you have either way. Not sure what tires you are using, but I always put the markers (when applicable) to the valves--- some brands do not use markers. Some issues could be said for using too large a tire for the rim. Also, a wobble does not always mean out of balance. Tire pressure, tire type, steering head bearings, rake/trail, are just a few that can contribute to the wobble.See... now... THIS is exactly why I went with the beads in the first place. Everything I read about them said they were as you have found, but now I'm like, WTH?! And then when I found the other riders suffering essentially identical issues, and the company being basically no help at all, it was a bit of a kick in the zipper.
So with 160/250 I used 2oz/3oz as suggested - now the company suggests maybe I should use less (not MORE as the physics would make it worse...makes sense). I also read somewhere else that it was someone's rim or a bad bead seat (wrinkle), but I don't see any wrinkles and I didn't have this problem with the stock 130 so I don't suspect the rim.
Is there something you are doing that I may have done differently? I jacked the bike, deflated the tires, filled them as directed, pumped them back up... now the front rides like crap.
Would love to love them!
Again, you did not have this with the 130...... so you might look at the 160. I have buried the speedo on Elanor several times without issue.
I am almost always working on a bike. If you have questions and need an answer quickly, just call me. 317-507-0940. Always up late. There will be time for sleep when I am dead!
Thanks futuR... This is the part I keep worrying about and just keep hoping it isn't the case.
The quest continues.
I also use Dyna beads , no problems , ever , for 5 years now.
I say you might have busted steel belts inside tires , known around here as "Ss" in the tires
so defective tire.
..
when you added the beads , did you have contamination of any kind inside tire ??, like grease
or water that could have caused the beads to bunch up together and create a blob
inside tire must be clean for beads to move freely .
..
did you mount the 160 back wards on front rim , most 160 are designed to be rear tires ,
and are built to get forces on them while accelerating , when mounted on front they must be mounted
backwards because forces will come when braking , that may deform your 160 front tire.
Last edited by Kazimodo; 11-17-2019 at 02:52 PM.
Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .
NSF, since 2008 I too have been specifically using Dyna Beads in all of my bikes (07’ ZX-14R, 07’ M109R, 06’ M109R, 08’ M109R, and now 14’ M109R), and I have had nothing but absolute success. There’s never been an issue with either of my bikes. No shaking, no wobbling, and no vibration of any sort...and I’ve had each of them at speeds well above 140 mph. If you haven’t already, perhaps you should consider going specifically with the Dyna Beads brand, using the same amounts (2 oz for the 160 & 3 oz for the 250) to see if that resolves the problems you're having. If that doesn’t resolve the issue, I would then consider that there could be a possibility of the tire being a defect.
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