Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder hookup and pictures.
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Thread: Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder hookup and pictures.

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    Default Hydraulic clutch slave cylinder hookup and pictures.

    The first picture shows the standard factory cable bracket which is removed when installing the latest version of the Rainey slave cylinder.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This second picture shows the slave cylinder top U bracket hooked up to the end of the clutch actuation arm.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This next picture shows the Slave cylinder installed to the hydraulic line and the actuation lever, and adjusted to the 2-3mm distance as recommended in the Rainey video on YouTube. As you can see in this latest version there is no longer any cable, it is a solid rod with threads at the U bracket. The main adjustment is made by loosening the two 13mm nuts above and below the gimble. I wound up with 10mm of threaded barrel above the top nut. I chose to leave the U bracket hard up against the solid portion of the rod for stability. You should use two or three zip ties on your hydraulic line around the bottom frame of the bike to keep the slave cylinder in place with no movement front to rear.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    This last picture shows a view from the side of the U bracket hooked up to the actuation arm at the top. I included this picture to show that the actuation arm is attached on a spline shaft, and it could be removed and moved one or two splines clockwise to eliminate so much of the threaded barrel of the slave cylinder above the gimble and locking nut. I felt that was unnecessary.
    Click image for larger version. 

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    For newbies that have never worked on your nine....
    The side case you remove is three 4mm Allen head caps.
    The large nut that tightens the hydraulic line to the slave cylinder is 14mm
    The two adjusting nuts that raise/lower the slave cylinder are 13mm
    The three bolts you must remove to take the factory bracket and braided standard cable off are 8mm and 10mm
    The bleeder at the slave cylinder is 7mm
    The two sleeves to tighten the line to the end fittings are 13mm

    Hope that helps someone with their installation, is 65 degrees here......I'm going riding!
    Last edited by sssportsmfg; 03-15-2018 at 02:06 PM.

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    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Nice write up. I'm on the fence about doing this mod. I haven't really had any issues with the cable. Broke one several years ago and had it fixed in no time. Keep a spare under the seat and know how to fix it roadside. But still, like the idea that the left handlebar matches the right, symmetrical versus the current asymmetrical. And the stock set up places the left and right mirrors differently, which I have never liked.

    My other bike, 2008 B-King has the hydraulic clutch. Reality is, it doesn't feel any easier to pull in the clutch than the cable does. I had a friend feel both, side-by-side yesterday, and he agreed the hydraulic was no easier than the cable.

    And btw, I am not saying the clutch is hard to pull. Isn't to me. Just saying the two don't feel any different when side-by-side.

    I've had several days where the weather was nice enough to ride, yesterday being one of them . Rode it to work, took the long way as usual. Today is going to be near 70 again. likely ride the B-King today.
    SILVER 2006 M109R.
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    Active Member NoChrome's Avatar
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    I predict an 85% or greater chance that i'll be doing this. I guess i'll ride with the cable clutch for a while to see how i feel about it first.

    I do tend to prefer a hydraulic clutch, though. More preference than anything.

    I know the cable needs swapping out every 10,000 miles, which is about 2 years riding for me, and that's no problem, but my current bike (2000 VFR 800) has a hydraulic clutch, and i've come to prefer them vs cable. Though on some bikes a cable clutch is better as they often feel lighter on a good portion of the bikes i've ridden (over 180...i keep a spreadsheet), but not on all. I suppose swapping to a hydraulic clutch would eliminate a point of worry with the potential for a snapped cable. Plus the added symmetry is a bonus for me.

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    Very Active Member Chilly Rock's Avatar
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    I need to get around to doing this mod. I bought the slave cylinder in a group buy about 3 years ago and haven't taken the time to purchase the clutch lever assembly. I may do it this spring. It's sucks when the cable breaks...mine broke about 130 miles from home. Rode home without cable, starting off in 1st is like 8 seconds of bull riding

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    Quote Originally Posted by Chilly Rock View Post
    Rode home without cable, starting off in 1st is like 8 seconds of bull riding
    LOL....I hear ya there.

    Same for when Tube Nut comes loose.......you have to let the traffic in front of you move up a ways then get on the throttle pretty hard and slap it into 1st gear, leaving the light just smoking the back tire with the bike jumping like a bronco.

    Everyone around you thinks you are out of your mind. But if you try to baby it the bike is just going to stall.

    Has anyone out there put any real miles on one of these hydraulic clutch modifications?

    Just wondering if we are really only trading the broken cable every 15,000 miles for a broken Chinese hydraulic actuator at some point.

    Time will tell.

    BCS

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    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    Nice write up. I'm on the fence about doing this mod. I haven't really had any issues with the cable. Broke one several years ago and had it fixed in no time. Keep a spare under the seat and know how to fix it roadside. But still, like the idea that the left handlebar matches the right, symmetrical versus the current asymmetrical. And the stock set up places the left and right mirrors differently, which I have never liked.

    My other bike, 2008 B-King has the hydraulic clutch. Reality is, it doesn't feel any easier to pull in the clutch than the cable does. I had a friend feel both, side-by-side yesterday, and he agreed the hydraulic was no easier than the cable.

    And btw, I am not saying the clutch is hard to pull. Isn't to me. Just saying the two don't feel any different when side-by-side.

    I've had several days where the weather was nice enough to ride, yesterday being one of them . Rode it to work, took the long way as usual. Today is going to be near 70 again. likely ride the B-King today.

    I agree the pull is MAYBE slightly easier....but not much. It IS much smoother. I think I saw a post about reversing a pin in the handle that reduces the pull, but it is just fine with me the way it is, so not going to hunt that down. That is not why I did mine, I just didn't like the idea of riding around with a cable that is so prone to failure, and this will eliminate that....unless the slave cylinder gets a bad seal and stops working...and it happens to every mechanical system ever devised by man at some point in time.

    Since going to the longer cable with my risers installed, I have also had to adjust it two or three times as it stretched out. This will eliminate that as well. I'm very pleased I did this.
    after adjusting it yesterday, I ran it through all the gears from 1st to 5th just sitting there on the back patio, it snicked in and out up and down slick as a whistle. I took it out and no more slip at all. So when I got back I buttoned it up and forgot to take a picture of the barrel adjusted up to 10mm above the top locking nut.

    Marty

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    Very Active Member Fishman349's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    LOL....I hear ya there.

    Same for when Tube Nut comes loose.......you have to let the traffic in front of you move up a ways then get on the throttle pretty hard and slap it into 1st gear, leaving the light just smoking the back tire with the bike jumping like a bronco.

    Everyone around you thinks you are out of your mind. But if you try to baby it the bike is just going to stall.

    Has anyone out there put any real miles on one of these hydraulic clutch modifications?

    Just wondering if we are really only trading the broken cable every 15,000 miles for a broken Chinese hydraulic actuator at some point.

    Time will tell.

    BCS
    Hey BCS, when mine broke I would turn the ignition off when stopping and put it into 1st gear. When the light changed I just hit the starter and away I went. Much easier on the drive train.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishman349 View Post
    Hey BCS, when mine broke I would turn the ignition off when stopping and put it into 1st gear. When the light changed I just hit the starter and away I went. Much easier on the drive train.
    I heard that's the way to do it. I mean, the Gold Wing uses the starter to move the bike in reverse. Anyway, I just keep a spare cable, a four foot piece of string and the tools needed to change it. Remove cover, undo both ends, attach string to top of old cable, pull out from the bottom, attach string to top of new cable, pull in from the top, attach both ends, install cover and go. Can be done in a short time if necessary. If I was a long way from home, I do that. The one time the cable broke was a mile from home, so I just carefully rode it home shifting from first to second and floating stop signs in a very slow traffic neighborhood. Managed to shift it into neutral, get the garage door open while coasting, and coast right on into the chock without stopping. LOL
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishman349 View Post
    Hey BCS, when mine broke I would turn the ignition off when stopping and put it into 1st gear. When the light changed I just hit the starter and away I went. Much easier on the drive train.
    Thanks for sharing Fish! I've wondered what to do just in case it happens. Now hopefully I will not have to put it in use.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Fishman349 View Post
    Hey BCS, when mine broke I would turn the ignition off when stopping and put it into 1st gear. When the light changed I just hit the starter and away I went. Much easier on the drive train.
    I read that while looking for the cause of my problem right after this happened to me.

    I hope there is never a next time (that really sucked) but if there is I will give that a try.

    BCS

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    Biggest thing is to hope and pray you don't find out you have lost your clutch (either from cable or tube nut) as you are charging an intersection to make a turn or charging a red light and thinking you will stop short.

    I know, I know.....everyone is saying you should not drive like that right now......I can hear you all.

    But I know damn good and well the majority here drive just like that......myself included.

    It is a M109, not a Goldwing........ ride it as hard as you can 100% of the time.

    (When it happened to me I was lucky enough to figure it out on a stretch of road with no one around me. It could have gotten really sketchy had it happened in heavy traffic or approaching an intersection)

    BCS

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    Mine broke right after making a right turn at a stop light. Made the turn, pulled in the lever to shift to second, and the lever hit the bars. OOPS!!

    I still have the barrel from the bottom, the one the cable pulled out of. Don't know how that happened, but I hope the newer cables are of better quality. Been riding since 76, and that was the first clutch cable I've ever "broken".

    Hell, my first two motorcycles had drum brakes up front and were cable actuated. Never broke them either.

    Anyhow, in my case, I had a heads up the cable was going to go, I just didn't know it at the time. Day before, while riding to work, all of the sudden had to make a rather large adjustment to the top adjuster. It did set off alarm bells, and I rode home and parked it and took one of my trucks to work. Next day, looked it over, lubed and adjusted it, took it for a ride, and POP!, it let go.

    Unfortunately, you can look over a cable all you want. But it's rather difficult to see a cable gradually pulling loose from a barrel. Fraying is easy to spot. That cable was flawless, except couldn't see what was going on down there, even though I looked.
    Last edited by cbxer55; 03-16-2018 at 01:21 PM.
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    Default Added a couple of pictures.

    Here is a picture of the barrel adjusted to the 10mm length. This is my final setting. It works great at this setting. Now if the factory installs your actuation arm one or two spline teeth different your setting will be different than mine. I suspect that is why Rainey says set at 2-3 and mine wound up being 10mm.
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    HTH
    Marty

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    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Great instructions Marty. Will use these when I do mine

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    Quote Originally Posted by sssportsmfg View Post
    Here is a picture of the barrel adjusted to the 10mm length. This is my final setting. It works great at this setting. Now if the factory installs your actuation arm one or two spline teeth different your setting will be different than mine. I suspect that is why Rainey says set at 2-3 and mine wound up being 10mm.
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    HTH
    Marty
    When it is all said and done, how much $$ does this setup run?

    I have heard how everyone love thiers, but I havent seen or felt one in person.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    When it is all said and done, how much $$ does this setup run?

    I have heard how everyone love thiers, but I havent seen or felt one in person.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk


    The slave cylinder and hose is $200

    The C90 master cylinder with lever is a few hundred

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    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    I got the C90 master cylinder that I got from Ebay complete for $65 in amazing shape

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    Thanks, I was curious about how much the setup ran.

    Why do you have to use a C90 master cylinder?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    Thanks, I was curious about how much the setup ran.

    Why do you have to use a C90 master cylinder?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
    It's a perfect match to the brake cylinder setup. Have to be careful on the year though. Marty and I both bought one for older model and it doesn't match so you have to have later model one

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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    Thanks, I was curious about how much the setup ran.

    Why do you have to use a C90 master cylinder?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
    There are a couple of reasons why you would, first it is a Suzuki part, and it matches the brake side EXACTLY, reservoir and handle, second you can't just put any old top piston and reservoir with any old slave cylinder, the two pieces have to be matched in order for the stroke of the slave to be correct. There is a compression ratio that has to be adhered to. In addition you have to use a slave that has the strength/piston size to pull the actuation arm down. You can hunt down a used C-90 handle and reservoir or you can buy them new from a OEM supplier, I went that route as my bike is a 2013 and looks brand new, so I got a new unit to match. The line and slave is packaged together, and has been matched to the C-90 unit. When you get the top unit, you will also need the switch which locks on the bottom of the reservoir and is different than your switch two versus three pin. And made for the bottom of the C-90 clutch unit.

    HTH
    Marty

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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    When it is all said and done, how much $$ does this setup run?

    I have heard how everyone love thiers, but I havent seen or felt one in person.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
    About $440 total if you buy the OEM top unit yourself, and get the line and slave from Rainey or Mean Cycles. $550 if you buy the kit complete. Less if you get a used top unit off Ebay or a cycle junk yard.

    Marty

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    Quote Originally Posted by sssportsmfg View Post
    About $440 total if you buy the OEM top unit yourself, and get the line and slave from Rainey or Mean Cycles. $550 if you buy the kit complete. Less if you get a used top unit off Ebay or a cycle junk yard.

    Marty
    Ok thanks. I understand a little better on the master cylinder part now.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingCircus View Post
    It's a perfect match to the brake cylinder setup. Have to be careful on the year though. Marty and I both bought one for older model and it doesn't match so you have to have later model one
    Flying....I was actually able to get that stopped before they shipped it, and they gave me a refund. Lucked out on that one lol. I hunted at several junk yards all around the country and specifically motorcycle parts yards filled out a dozen forms listing the year and model of clutch master cylinder, and never heard a thing back from any of them. Waited a week or so for some answers. SO I just went and bought it new. I get kinda impatient sometimes lol. And I wanted to be able to get it installed and adjusted before spring riding weather.

    Marty

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    Quote Originally Posted by sssportsmfg View Post
    Flying....I was actually able to get that stopped before they shipped it, and they gave me a refund. Lucked out on that one lol. I hunted at several junk yards all around the country and specifically motorcycle parts yards filled out a dozen forms listing the year and model of clutch master cylinder, and never heard a thing back from any of them. Waited a week or so for some answers. SO I just went and bought it new. I get kinda impatient sometimes lol. And I wanted to be able to get it installed and adjusted before spring riding weather.

    Marty

    I'd have done the same thing. Can't wait this close to being able to ride

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    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Now I'm having a fight with myself on "do I buy air ride?"

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    reading threads and insights about the discussions help me a lot thanks guys

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    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Marty

    I was installing mine today after work. The arm attached to the spline won't go down far enough to get the pin in. Rainey's videos and pictured instructions were vague and I figured from what he was saying that it has to be adjusted so it's straighter

    He was using vice grips to to push it down in a video

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    FRANDO 11NB Hydraulic Clutch Cylinder
    This is what you are looking for,search the net!
    I bought a spare one about 2 years ago at AliExp. for about 55$

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    I found that one when googling it tonight.

    It's for the older version but when I thought I'd try removing the clutch arm once I'd shifted it to the right I saw I could get the pin in and got it all installed.

    I guess that's what Rainy was doing in the video with the vice grips, shifting it to the right to get the pin in. I realized that once I did it by tapping it over with hammer and screw driver.

    I don't recall him saying anything about doing that and watched it a few times

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