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Thread: Improving Rear Shock

  1. #31
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by frankj View Post
    sounds like they fit the poundage spring to suit your weight then ? mine was marked up 800/1200 iirc, with the coils being progressively wound (so initially 800lbs and raising to 1200 or whatever)
    and the preload initially set by turning the thread, then extra adjustment with the remote knob
    set with high preload and high rebound i would say the unit is a harder than stock ride comfort. but i have mine on minimal preload and softest rebound and its softer than stock ride (and 2" lower)
    Damn I feel like a woman trying to figure out which pair of heel's to buy. Keep changing my my mind as to if I want to go this route or not as I get more info.

    I don't want to drop my bike at all...this I know.

    If the progressive is harder than the stock when jacked up to meet stock height then I am just wasting my $$$ because lowering my bike is not an option I am interested in.

    I watch these guys scraping there pipes and dragging the back fender well on the tire as they hit bumps when riding 2 up after lowering their bikes and I just shake my head.

    Also if they do (big if still) have to match the spring to my weight on the progressive shock, then buying a shock off E-bay is going to be a crap shoot.

    Think I will sit back and ponder this for a while longer and see what other information comes in before spending the cash.

    In the meantime I have some inquires out already for the materials to build an air ride.....will see what comes back on that also.

    BCS

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  3. #32
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    probably not suited to your needs then bcs, my need was for a softer ride (i,m 80kg, only ride solo and have removed some weight from the bike too)
    i found the ride very harsh (back jarring) on landing after riding over speedbumps, and i needed some drop too (without the dodgy lowering bones option)

  4. #33
    Very Active Member hunt1moore's Avatar
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    I have the Progressive and for the most part I like it. However, you set it up for your weight and since I ride 90% of the time 2-up I set the preload for US. This make a choppy ride when solo.
    I also highly recommend installing stiffer fork springs if you haven't already. It made a huge difference.

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  6. #34
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunt1moore View Post
    I have the Progressive and for the most part I like it. However, you set it up for your weight and since I ride 90% of the time 2-up I set the preload for US. This make a choppy ride when solo.
    I also highly recommend installing stiffer fork springs if you haven't already. It made a huge difference.
    So what you are saying is the shock comes as one size fits all and you adjust it to your weight?
    (Not you have to order it to your specific weight) correct?

    Does this shock lower the bike compared to the stock?

    If not then is it a noticeably more comfortable ride than the stock?

    If you have the one with the remote adjustable preload then it should be easy enough to dial it in for 2 up or solo right?

    Is it worth the money to get this shock?

    I know these questions have been answered but since you have the shock I just want your take on it also.

    I have the stiffer springs coming already for the forks and will install them right away when I get back.

    Thanks,
    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 03-01-2018 at 04:14 PM.

  7. #35
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Raising Bones

    BCS

    I think there is a simple way to raise your bike if needed,

    with this simple solution, what do you think?? Just read this post ...:

    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...=1#post1650075
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  8. #36
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Thanks thevili,

    I saw another post where wborn was trying to source some raising bones also but was unsuccessful in doing so.

    I guess I just need to get home so I have the bike in front of me to comprehend it all.

    Doesn't make since in my mind that I can raise the bike by adding taller bones but still install a shock that will be shorter than stock?

    I guess when its in front of me it will make sense.

    If taller bones is all that's needed and none can be found I have a neighbor that has CNC equipment and can make just about anything the mind can imagine.

    I have some time to think on this, but any ideas or further information to put me on the right path are always welcomed.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 03-01-2018 at 06:48 PM.

  9. #37
    Very Active Member RUBZERK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    I have seen a dozen or more people trying to purchase his air ride lately and either get no reply or told that he has none for sale right now.

    BCS
    I'm making them. I just have more buyers than products.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    Thanks for the feed back.

    Good to hear that the progressive is worth the money and better than stock.

    I think I may pick one up and give it a try, just want to find out a bit more about the remote adjustable rebound version and find out more about how much it lowers the bike compared to stock height.

    I truly am not interested in lowering my bike, I like to charge into corners and drag the pegs and I am not fond of scraping my exhaust or having to take corners like I have a 50 foot trailer being pulled behind me.
    I already hit the exhaust pretty good once but was riding 2 up at the time so the extra weight played a factor I am sure.

    BCS
    You're welcome. Trod has the adjustable one and really liked it. Just took a couple minutes to dial it in and change as necessary. At the time, my shock was like $450 and the adjustable was over $600 so there was no way I was doing that. If it was me, with a $250 price tag I would opt for the adjustable one.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    So what you are saying is the shock comes as one size fits all and you adjust it to your weight?
    (Not you have to order it to your specific weight) correct?

    Does this shock lower the bike compared to the stock?

    If not then is it a noticeably more comfortable ride than the stock?

    If you have the one with the remote adjustable preload then it should be easy enough to dial it in for 2 up or solo right?

    Is it worth the money to get this shock?

    I know these questions have been answered but since you have the shock I just want your take on it also.

    I have the stiffer springs coming already for the forks and will install them right away when I get back.

    Thanks,
    BCS
    There is a trade off for comfort and lowering the bike. The softer you make the preload, the lower the bike is. However, you are talking maybe 1/2" at the most. I measured mine and that is what it dropped to go fairly soft. I still rode 2 up one time with no issues. Now, with that being said, I agree with Hunt that you should do your front fork springs as well. Between the two mods, it was far better than any setup I had run and made me fall in love with the bike again. I could hit bridge seems and they would eat up the harsh jolt and I wouldn't feel it.

  12. #40
    Very Active Member hunt1moore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    So what you are saying is the shock comes as one size fits all and you adjust it to your weight?
    (Not you have to order it to your specific weight) correct?

    Does this shock lower the bike compared to the stock?

    If not then is it a noticeably more comfortable ride than the stock?

    If you have the one with the remote adjustable preload then it should be easy enough to dial it in for 2 up or solo right?

    Is it worth the money to get this shock?

    I know these questions have been answered but since you have the shock I just want your take on it also.

    I have the stiffer springs coming already for the forks and will install them right away when I get back.

    Thanks,
    BCS
    If I had to do it again I would get the remote adjuster. It's a PITA to adjust by hand. My other bike has a remote adjuster. You need to have all the weight off the bike to get the knob to turn easily. Not sure if this is the case for the Progressive.
    I'm not positive but I seem to remember and optional 1" lower unit available?
    The shock seems to work best when it is in is it's correct stroke range which will require setting the pre-load properly.
    All together it has made the bike more stable in the twisties and not wollow like a fat pig. I dont want to sell you the shock but I am happy with it. It was a biatch to set up for both of us.
    The stiffer springs are a must. Glad to see you have those coming.

  13. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by RUBZERK View Post
    I'm making them. I just have more buyers than products.

    Living the Dream......that's a problem every small business wishes they had.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BigpapaM109 View Post
    There is a trade off for comfort and lowering the bike. The softer you make the preload, the lower the bike is. However, you are talking maybe 1/2" at the most. I measured mine and that is what it dropped to go fairly soft. I still rode 2 up one time with no issues. Now, with that being said, I agree with Hunt that you should do your front fork springs as well. Between the two mods, it was far better than any setup I had run and made me fall in love with the bike again. I could hit bridge seems and they would eat up the harsh jolt and I wouldn't feel it.
    Quote Originally Posted by hunt1moore View Post
    If I had to do it again I would get the remote adjuster. It's a PITA to adjust by hand. My other bike has a remote adjuster. You need to have all the weight off the bike to get the knob to turn easily. Not sure if this is the case for the Progressive.
    I'm not positive but I seem to remember and optional 1" lower unit available?
    The shock seems to work best when it is in is it's correct stroke range which will require setting the pre-load properly.
    All together it has made the bike more stable in the twisties and not wollow like a fat pig. I dont want to sell you the shock but I am happy with it. It was a biatch to set up for both of us.
    The stiffer springs are a must. Glad to see you have those coming.
    Thanks for the feed back guys, I appreciate it.

    BCS

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    I've also been looking to upgrade the rear shock, I got front springs from Traxxion Dynamics, and want to upgrade the rear shock. I am currently looking at Wilbers https://www.wilbers-shop.de/en/Motor...ur=3&year=2017

    Seems like I had seen some posts as I was looking through about Wilbers being a good product, but never saw any info from someone with a Wilbers shock installed on the 9. I was originally planning on the Progressive, but didn't like the fact that the spring was not suited to the rider's weight.

    Anyone have any feedback on Wilbers products? These may be a good alternative to the Progressive.
    Last edited by Kratos109; 06-16-2019 at 05:46 PM.

  16. #44
    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kratos109 View Post
    I've also been looking to upgrade the rear shock, I got front springs from Traxxion Dynamics, and want to upgrade the rear shock. I am currently looking at Wilbers https://www.wilbers-shop.de/en/Motor...ur=3&year=2017

    Seems like I had seen some posts as I was looking through about Wilbers being a good product, but never saw any info from someone with a Wilbers shock installed on the 9. I was originally planning on the Progressive, but didn't like the fact that the spring was not suited to the rider's weight.

    Anyone have any feedback on Wilbers products? These may be a good alternative to the Progressive.

    If you're gonna spend that kind of money you'd be better off with air ride

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    I ended up going with the Wilbers rear shock. As I don't carry a passenger or much luggage ever, I wanted something I could set sag/preload on and be done. The price is right in line with any other major aftermarket brand like Penske, Ohlins, etc.... I also like the fact that they gave you options for the valving Sport, Standard or Comfort. I chose comfort. I got the front springs swapped out last night, will work on the rear next. Will post some pics of the shock later for anyone that is interested.

  18. #46
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    Just seeing this thread now.

    I've got the progressive rear shock with the adjuster. Pricey but a wicked setup. Been running the stock length shock with a 2" set of lowering bones for a little over 3ish years now
    Went this way after all the stories of air ride units failing years back. When traveling into the US I want to ensure I had reliability.

    The adjustment is fantastic because I can dial it up (on the fly) if I'm loaded up and traveling or riding with the wife. I have 3 different settings worked out that I use for the different situations.
    Recently traveling up the west coast of Canada I adjusted the shock on different roads due to conditions. Worked great.

    I also have upgraded front springs for my weight. These also made a huge difference. Would recommend to anyone. Gained nearly 1" of travel when sitting on the bike just from the springs.

    With this setup I never have an issue with scraping. As a bonus the bike has what I think is a great stance.
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  19. #47
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    I've got Race Tech fork springs in mine. When I bought them, I was asked for my weight. I'm still running the stock shock in the back on #1 setting. Still very happy with it like this. Yes, I throw it around my favorite set of curves every chance I get. This weekend will be doing the same.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Andy33 View Post
    Just seeing this thread now.

    I've got the progressive rear shock with the adjuster. Pricey but a wicked setup. Been running the stock length shock with a 2" set of lowering bones for a little over 3ish years now
    Went this way after all the stories of air ride units failing years back. When traveling into the US I want to ensure I had reliability.

    The adjustment is fantastic because I can dial it up (on the fly) if I'm loaded up and traveling or riding with the wife. I have 3 different settings worked out that I use for the different situations.
    Recently traveling up the west coast of Canada I adjusted the shock on different roads due to conditions. Worked great.

    I also have upgraded front springs for my weight. These also made a huge difference. Would recommend to anyone. Gained nearly 1" of travel when sitting on the bike just from the springs.

    With this setup I never have an issue with scraping. As a bonus the bike has what I think is a great stance.

    Yea, I should have upgraded my front springs before I got the exhaust. I have scraped the front section of the Cobra dual swept exhaust heat shield.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kratos109 View Post
    Yea, I should have upgraded my front springs before I got the exhaust. I have scraped the front section of the Cobra dual swept exhaust heat shield.
    Strangely enough, the Race Tech springs, calibrated for my weight, actually lowered the front a bit. The amount of stanchion shiny tube visible on my front is less than it was with stock springs. But, it does ride a bit harder, but more compliant at the same time, so therefore, it may end up being better. I like it. Also running a slightly taller front tire profile, 140/70. I scrape less now than I did before, even being lower.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    Strangely enough, the Race Tech springs, calibrated for my weight, actually lowered the front a bit. The amount of stanchion shiny tube visible on my front is less than it was with stock springs. But, it does ride a bit harder, but more compliant at the same time, so therefore, it may end up being better. I like it. Also running a slightly taller front tire profile, 140/70. I scrape less now than I did before, even being lower.

    Nice! I've got a 260 Cobra chrome waiting to go on, so I should have more ground clearance all the way around once that is installed. The stock springs are progressively wound springs, so they have a softer ride (less tension) until the spring gets compressed to a certain point, then stiffens to prevent bottoming out. The straight rate springs, I'm guessing that's what you have from Race Tech, will provide the same tension no matter how much the spring is compressed. It's much easier to dial in the suspension with straight rate springs. So while it may sit a little lower, there is likely more tension at the top of of the straight rate spring to keep it from sagging when you sit on it or push it into a turn.
    Last edited by Kratos109; 4 Weeks Ago at 04:12 PM.

  23. #51
    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Let's see if I have two pictures that can illustrate jsut how much lower it sits, about an inch I'd say. First is the past, second is now. You can definitely tell the difference in the two pics. But yeah, don't hardly scrape at all anymore. Used to hit my pegs now and then, the heels of my feet all the time. Haven't changed the way I ride, but my shoes will last a lot oonger now. LOL!!
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    Last edited by cbxer55; 4 Weeks Ago at 07:46 PM.
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  24. #52
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    With my front end being low like it is now, I don't want the back any higher. When I sit on the bike, it goes down just enough to look the part. Won't put lowering links on to go any lower, love tossing it around curves too much. Rode it to work today, going for a ride on my favorite set of curves at lunch time.
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  25. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    Let's see if I have two pictures that can illustrate jsut how much lower it sits, about an inch I'd say. First is the past, second is now. You can definitely tell the difference in the two pics. But yeah, don't hardly scrape at all anymore. Used to hit my pegs now and then, the heels of my feet all the time. Haven't changed the way I ride, but my shoes will last a lot oonger now. LOL!!

    Wow, that doesn't look right. If Race Tech set you up with springs to match your weight, the only way to adjust preload is the spacer length. With the bike vertical and you sitting on it in your normal riding position, it should only be using up 1/3 of it's full travel. Usually with Race Tech, they send you a tube and you have to measure and cut your own spacers to the proper length. Did the spacers get installed?

    That's great if it works for you, but I'd be afraid you would run out of travel and bottom out all the time with that little of travel left. If your fork tubes are dirty, take a look and see how much of the stanchion tube is clean vs dirty. The dust seal will keep the portion of travel you use somewhat clean vs the unused portion. If your tube is clean all the way to the end, I'd seriously consider verifying that everything was installed correctly. You probably want around 25mm of "dirty" stanchion tube or travel left as a buffer.

    The kit from Traxxion Dynamics came with 95mm pre-cut spacers which were installed below the springs and the stock spacers were installed on top of the springs.

    Not trying to tell you what to do or anything like that, just concerned about the safety.

    Top pic is before, bottom pic is after.


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  26. #54
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    Well, number one is I'm a lightweight, only weigh 170. So the springs are not likely very hefty to begin with. Yes, it does fine. Don't scrape anything, don't feel like it's bottoming out. I didn't install them, Oklahoma City Honda Suzuki did. Maybe I'll put it up on the jack this weekend, and take the fork caps off. See what's what. The guys that work there have been there a long time. They put my black 10 inch rim, 280 tire on the back without a scratch. I'm thinking they know what they're doing.

    I kind of like the way it looks myself. Especially when I'm on it and the back drops some. Seen the reflection in the abondoned mall windows a mile from where I live. Looks bad-ass. From what I can feel, the back drops more than the front when I sit on it. Whole bike just looks lower. But I definitely don't want the rear any more lower than it currently is when I'm sittin on it.
    Last edited by cbxer55; 4 Weeks Ago at 10:40 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by cbxer55 View Post
    Well, number one is I'm a lightweight, only weigh 170. So the springs are not likely very hefty to begin with. Yes, it does fine. Don't scrape anything, don't feel like it's bottoming out. I didn't install them, Oklahoma City Honda Suzuki did. Maybe I'll put it up on the jack this weekend, and take the fork caps off. See what's what. The guys that work there have been there a long time. They put my black 10 inch rim, 280 tire on the back without a scratch. I'm thinking they know what they're doing.

    I kind of like the way it looks myself. Especially when I'm on it and the back drops some. Seen the reflection in the abondoned mall windows a mile from where I live. Looks bad-ass. From what I can feel, the back drops more than the front when I sit on it. Whole bike just looks lower. But I definitely don't want the rear any more lower than it currently is when I'm sittin on it.

    These forks have damping rods, so while you can unscrew the fork caps from the fork tube, they will remain threaded onto the damping rod, so you can't just pop them off like telescopic forks, you'll need special tools to compress the spring far enough, and hold it, to loosen the jam nut to remove the cap from the damping rod. The fork tube would need to be removed from the bike and completely compressed to do this. Although with yours sitting so low in the stroke, you may be able to pull it up enough to see if the spacer under the cap is the stock white plastic, or metal which would be the spacers cut from the race tech tube.

    Even at 170, the recommended spring rate for you is .90 kg/mm vs the stock rate of .54 kg/mm. So if installed correctly and the spring is the correct length and rate, there is absolutely no way the outer fork tube could ride lower on the inner fork tube than stock. At my weight, 205, the recommended spring weight is .96 kg/mm. So compared to the stock height, your bike should be closer to mine as far as fork height from the bottom.

    I would bet that they didn't know what the tube was for that came with the race tech springs and just put it back together with the stock spacers only, or did cut the tube into spacers and thought they were supposed to install them in place of the stock spacers instead of in addition to. The amount of space yours is lowered looks like the length of the spacer that came in the kit from Traxxion Dynamics. That is one of the reasons I don't use race tech anymore, they just send you a tube and you have to do the calculations to figure out the length of the spacers and cut them yourself. Traxxion does this for you and sends the spacers pre-cut so there is no guess work.
    Last edited by Kratos109; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:55 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kratos109 View Post
    These forks have damping rods, so while you can unscrew the fork caps from the fork tube, they will remain threaded onto the damping rod, so you can't just pop them off like telescopic forks, you'll need special tools to compress the spring far enough, and hold it, to loosen the jam nut to remove the cap from the damping rod. The fork tube would need to be removed from the bike and completely compressed to do this. Although with yours sitting so low in the stroke, you may be able to pull it up enough to see if the spacer under the cap is the stock white plastic, or metal which would be the spacers cut from the race tech tube.

    Even at 170, the recommended spring rate for you is .90 kg/mm vs the stock rate of .54 kg/mm. So if installed correctly and the spring is the correct length and rate, there is absolutely no way the outer fork tube could ride lower on the inner fork tube than stock. At my weight, 205, the recommended spring weight is .96 kg/mm. So compared to the stock height, your bike should be closer to mine as far as fork height from the bottom.

    I would bet that they didn't know what the tube was for that came with the race tech springs and just put it back together with the stock spacers only, or did cut the tube into spacers and thought they were supposed to install them in place of the stock spacers instead of in addition to. The amount of space yours is lowered looks like the length of the spacer that came in the kit from Traxxion Dynamics. That is one of the reasons I don't use race tech anymore, they just send you a tube and you have to do the calculations to figure out the length of the spacers and cut them yourself. Traxxion does this for you and sends the spacers pre-cut so there is no guess work.
    I uprated my forks with the racetech springs and simply made some spacers from UPVC drainage tube as no tube was supplied. Its not a difficult job and you want between 30 & 35mm of preload ie. assemble springs and caps to damper rod, measure gap between bottom of cap and top of spring (theres two types of fork cap) with forks fully extended add 30 to 35mm to gap length and cut spacer accordingly.
    Those forks in the thumbnails definitely are not assembled correctly, mine has 5" of tube from the bottom of the stanchion to the top of the caliper casting and uses around 4" of that travel in normal use, I'm a big guy 18 stone and ride two up mostly and have not bottomed forks out since fitting springs rated at 1.0kg

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    Quote Originally Posted by The Prospector View Post
    I uprated my forks with the racetech springs and simply made some spacers from UPVC drainage tube as no tube was supplied. Its not a difficult job and you want between 30 & 35mm of preload ie. assemble springs and caps to damper rod, measure gap between bottom of cap and top of spring (theres two types of fork cap) with forks fully extended add 30 to 35mm to gap length and cut spacer accordingly.
    Those forks in the thumbnails definitely are not assembled correctly, mine has 5" of tube from the bottom of the stanchion to the top of the caliper casting and uses around 4" of that travel in normal use, I'm a big guy 18 stone and ride two up mostly and have not bottomed forks out since fitting springs rated at 1.0kg

    That's interesting Prospector, all the race tech springs I've gotten in the past have come with a metal tube that you had to cut the spacers from. If cbxer55's springs did not come with such tube either, they were likely just installed with the stock spacers, which would account for how low it is. The replacement springs are shorter than the stock springs, so if spacers aren't used, it will be too low.

  30. #58
    Very Active Member
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    Nov 2014
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    Rear shock has been replaced. If anyone wants a stock rear shock or fork springs with only 1200 miles on them, let me know. Just pay for shipping and I'll send them.

    Overall one of the easier jobs as long as you have a motorcycle jack. Went for a short ride, bumps were not harsh in the seat and the bike felt much more planted in general. It did take a little more effort to get the bike leaned over since the front is a little higher than stock now, but hopefully the 260 rear will help balance that out. Makes me feel better knowing the bike has the correct springs for my weight now, and I like the feel, so to me, it was worth it.

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  31. #59
    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Feb 2009
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    All the blah-blah-blahing aside, I like the way it looks. So I'm going to just leave it the way it is. It doesn't ride bad at all, and handles great on a curvy road. If it ain't broke, don't fix it. Haven't scraped a single thing since the change, and I still ride the same. I have always wanted the bike to be a tad lower in the front, now it's there. Previously I had the forks pulled up in the trees as high as I could get them. They still are, and I can pull them back down again if I desire it. About a quarter inch at most though.
    Last edited by cbxer55; 3 Weeks Ago at 03:08 PM.
    SILVER 2006 M109R.
    BLACK 2008 B-KING


  32. #60

    Cool

    My 13 M109r was rattling my teeth every time I hit a bump or anything that was not smooth … so , I found that I cut adjust the damper from the factory setting of 4 to number 2 … it was literally a game changer . The change has been enormous , more absorbing on the shock, softer ride , the works . I read that adjusting the damper down to 1 would make the bike wobble , so just in case I went down only to 2 , which is fine .
    Best of all , it didn`t cost me anything .
    Now the bike ride is much more comfortable and I think that it has lowered a little bit on height . I previously had the adjustable bones installed to a lower 1.75" setting , so now I believe it is a 2" lower .
    The 160-60 front tire and the 250-40 rear tire also contribute to give much more softer ride than the thinner factory tires and , contrary to popular belief, they increase the handling of the bike big time , specially on curbs .
    The bike looks great at that height, rides great , handles great , it doesn`t rub or scrape anywhere or anything , it is way more comfortable (considering the term "comfortable" on a M109r with a grain of salt , lol...) so , I am very satisfied.
    Last edited by josey088; 3 Weeks Ago at 09:57 AM.

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