Clutch Cable Disconnected/Broke
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Thread: Clutch Cable Disconnected/Broke

  1. #1
    Active Member ahhyeah's Avatar
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    Default Clutch Cable Disconnected/Broke

    Just had my cable come disconnected/broke at the handle. Shop is on its way to pick me up on the side of the road If it needs to be replaced so I go OEM for $60 or is there a better option? 2007 btw.






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  3. #2
    Active Member ahhyeah's Avatar
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  4. #3
    Very Active Member Stavros's Avatar
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    That's the most common failure,snaps at the barrel up at the lever...

    go OEM,it was upgraded in 08 or 9 I believe with a Teflon coating...just make sure it's adjusted proper with 2 Quarters stacked of free play at the lever..
    Stav

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  6. #4
    Very Active Member biker-chicky's Avatar
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    Default Clutch Cable Disconnected/Broke

    I went with Barnett cables. We Cary spares now. I broke OEM and Barnett. I'm glad your safe.


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  7. #5
    Active Member ahhyeah's Avatar
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    Thanks for the feedback! They are ordering an OEM. Couple days of shipping and then I wait in line for shop time. They are pretty busy. Said it will be about 1 week total


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  8. #6
    Very Active Member biker-chicky's Avatar
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    Default Clutch Cable Disconnected/Broke

    Quote Originally Posted by ahhyeah View Post
    Thanks for the feedback! They are ordering an OEM. Couple days of shipping and then I wait in line for shop time. They are pretty busy. Said it will be about 1 week total


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    Crapy, I could change the cable on the side of the road, my friend, chit, maybe someone could talk you threw this change out over the phone. Just get a cable, one should get to you faster then that. Oh that sucks to wait that long! I'd be screaming and become frantic. Are they giving you a loner bike to ride while you wait? Our dealer does that in Kelowna Suzuki.

    Heck you even live in the USA, Motorsport.com could have sameday or close to same day shipping, then wella, 30 min in the parking lot and your off!

    You should order another cable, and be ready for the next time.

    Dammm! Hate being without a ride!


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    Last edited by biker-chicky; 08-08-2017 at 04:26 PM.

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  9. #7
    Very Active Member Stavros's Avatar
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    Very simple swap,if they hold you up,just find the video on here and go at it...disconnect both ends,snip any twist ties holding it,tie new cable to old and pull it thru..reassemble and adjust
    Stav

  10. #8
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahhyeah View Post



    The most difficult part of your clutch cable change out is.......your bike is inside this dealers trailer. (I am assuming they towed it to their shop and not to your house)

    Also good job on getting her off to the side without incident. I know you just got her not long ago, so excellent work on your part handling the breakdown like you did.
    Glad it did not go at a worse moment, you never realize what an important roll the clutch plays in stopping, until you suddenly don't have one.
    Hopefully it broke on you as you pulled on it to go into first from a stop and not when your were cruising and trying to come to a stop.
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 08-08-2017 at 03:14 PM.

  11. #9
    Very Active Member SKIDMARK's Avatar
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    Tell them to NOT route it thru the engine mounts at the front, it causes a slight kink, and to keep it on the left hand side of the mounts so it is free of that slight kink. If your motor mounts are worn, most likley, then the cable kink gets a bit more. And the OEM is like butter when fitted.

  12. #10
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Seeing that your a newer member i have 3 recommendations for you....

    1) there is an issue with the way the cable gets routed at the factory. It goes through a motor mounting bracket at the bottom front and its recommended to run the cable alongside of the frame instead.

    2) make sure that you leave slack at the hand lever. Start off by placing 2 quarters into the lever pinch point ) where the cable connects to the lever). You will need to fine tune the adjustment so that it shifts as it should. You will probably need to take up a small bit of the slack but do not take up too much or risk this happening again in the near future.

    3) its a good idea to keep a spare cable along with some strong thin string (masons line works great) long enough to pull through with excess on both ends and strong enough to withstand some mild tugging and abrasion from being dragged along the bikes frame. Personally since i have aftermarket braided cables i carry a spare "inner cable" with one of the barrels attached and for the other end i have a home made fix. This "fix" is a barrel sized piece of mild steel round bar stock that i drilled a larger then cable hole through perpendicular to the length of the barrel and then i cut a slot a hair more then half the barrels thickness from the hole to either end wide enough for the cable to fit. Once i feed the cable through the braided cover i thread it through the special barrel and then bend it into the slot. I then carefully smash the slotted end with some pliers until the slot is closed completely. It is very important to keep the cable especially the end in good condition and not all bent with frayed ends or you will not be able to feed it through the outer sheathing.
    I've yet to have need to use it on my bike however i did use it to help out a riding buddy whom last we spoke told me that it was still holding up. He never changed it instead choosing to use the new one he ordered as the back up. That was about 2 years ago, the cable has been on the bike since September of 2012.

  13. #11
    Active Member ahhyeah's Avatar
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    Just in time for date night!




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  14. #12
    Very Active Member biker-chicky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahhyeah View Post


    Just in time for date night!




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    Wooo-hoo! Fantastic! Koodos to your shop!


    Riders Meet 2018, Nakusp BC. July 26-30.
    Planning stage. Location secured

    Riders Meet 2018, Nakusp BC. Date ?
    Planning stage. Location secured

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