Thanks for the feedback! They are ordering an OEM. Couple days of shipping and then I wait in line for shop time. They are pretty busy. Said it will be about 1 week total
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Crapy, I could change the cable on the side of the road, my friend, chit, maybe someone could talk you threw this change out over the phone. Just get a cable, one should get to you faster then that. Oh that sucks to wait that long! I'd be screaming and become frantic. Are they giving you a loner bike to ride while you wait? Our dealer does that in Kelowna Suzuki.
Heck you even live in the USA, Motorsport.com could have sameday or close to same day shipping, then wella, 30 min in the parking lot and your off!
You should order another cable, and be ready for the next time.
The most difficult part of your clutch cable change out is.......your bike is inside this dealers trailer. (I am assuming they towed it to their shop and not to your house)
Also good job on getting her off to the side without incident. I know you just got her not long ago, so excellent work on your part handling the breakdown like you did.
Glad it did not go at a worse moment, you never realize what an important roll the clutch plays in stopping, until you suddenly don't have one.
Hopefully it broke on you as you pulled on it to go into first from a stop and not when your were cruising and trying to come to a stop.
Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 08-08-2017 at 03:14 PM.
Tell them to NOT route it thru the engine mounts at the front, it causes a slight kink, and to keep it on the left hand side of the mounts so it is free of that slight kink. If your motor mounts are worn, most likley, then the cable kink gets a bit more. And the OEM is like butter when fitted.
Seeing that your a newer member i have 3 recommendations for you....
1) there is an issue with the way the cable gets routed at the factory. It goes through a motor mounting bracket at the bottom front and its recommended to run the cable alongside of the frame instead.
2) make sure that you leave slack at the hand lever. Start off by placing 2 quarters into the lever pinch point ) where the cable connects to the lever). You will need to fine tune the adjustment so that it shifts as it should. You will probably need to take up a small bit of the slack but do not take up too much or risk this happening again in the near future.
3) its a good idea to keep a spare cable along with some strong thin string (masons line works great) long enough to pull through with excess on both ends and strong enough to withstand some mild tugging and abrasion from being dragged along the bikes frame. Personally since i have aftermarket braided cables i carry a spare "inner cable" with one of the barrels attached and for the other end i have a home made fix. This "fix" is a barrel sized piece of mild steel round bar stock that i drilled a larger then cable hole through perpendicular to the length of the barrel and then i cut a slot a hair more then half the barrels thickness from the hole to either end wide enough for the cable to fit. Once i feed the cable through the braided cover i thread it through the special barrel and then bend it into the slot. I then carefully smash the slotted end with some pliers until the slot is closed completely. It is very important to keep the cable especially the end in good condition and not all bent with frayed ends or you will not be able to feed it through the outer sheathing.
I've yet to have need to use it on my bike however i did use it to help out a riding buddy whom last we spoke told me that it was still holding up. He never changed it instead choosing to use the new one he ordered as the back up. That was about 2 years ago, the cable has been on the bike since September of 2012.