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Thread: Installed a complete upgraded 2011 clutch on my 2007 M109R

  1. #151
    Very Active Member biker-chicky's Avatar
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    Default Installed a complete upgraded 2011 clutch on my 2007 M109R

    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    Lack of self awareness....
    Please stop polluting this thread. I received a PM the guy did not know the documents where posted! Enough already, don't you have more important posts to answer. Gee wizz!


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  3. #152
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biker-chicky View Post
    Please stop polluting this thread. I received a PM the guy did not know the documents where posted! Enough already, don't you have more important posts to answer. Gee wiz!
    If you answered his PM by your own PM, you

    wouldn't made a fool of yourself here publicly.

    Your lack of self-awareness is blinding you, so you don't

    see the amount of pollution you do to this board yourself.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  4. #153
    Very Active Member Stavros's Avatar
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    Easy Vili...chicky means well and is keeping the board alive the last year..cut her some slack..the two of you need to hug and make up

    you both contribute in many ways.
    Stav

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  6. #154
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stavros View Post
    Easy Vili...chicky means well and is keeping the board alive the last year..cut her some slack..the two of you need to hug and make up

    you both contribute in many ways.
    If she meant well, she would navigate the new member "temagnus2004"

    to the original Raineys post which is more informative and simpler.

    I did PM'd that to him 24 hrs. ago, and I hope he will understand

    necessary parts needed for this "Clutch Guts Improvement"...
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  7. #155
    Very Active Member Stillfree's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    If she meant well, she would navigate the new member "temagnus2004"

    to the original Raineys post which is more informative and simpler.

    I did PM'd that to him 24 hrs. ago, and I hope he will understand

    necessary parts needed for this "Clutch Guts Improvement"...
    Seriously your berating a riding member of this forum because they didn't promote Rainey's updated clutch. BTW the member "temagnus2004" pm'd me and I got back to him a little late and directed him to my posts as well as mentioned to him that Biker- Chickey just installed a new 2011 clutch. You've made it clear that your a big fan of Rainey's updated clutch and there is nothing wrong with that just as there should be nothing wrong with someone not being a big fan of Rainey's updated clutch. Rainey's updated clutch could be said to be a semi-updated clutch and much cheaper than my completely updated clutch. If I remember correctly my upgraded clutch has 18 upgrades and Rainey's has less. I don't see why my diagrams , text and Invoice posted on this forum would be much more complicated to read/view than Rainey's pictures and text. This isn't a contest about who has the better updated clutch this is about finding solutions to eliminate the bugs in this bike and giving Riders a choice too choose Rainey's semi- updated less expensive upgrade , my completely upgraded more expensive updated clutch or their own ideas of what upgrades they want to do on their clutch. Also my purpose in purchasing a completely upgraded more expensive clutch was to eliminate the severe clutch shudder I had on my 2007 - it did eliminate my clutch shudder and gave me other benefits as well which I may not have got if I had done a semi upgrade. So let the riders choose what they want and be happy for them - which ever clutch upgrade they choose to do if they're riding any models from 2006 to 2010 will surely be better than what they have now. All the best Thevili - enjoy your ride this weekend.

  8. #156
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stillfree View Post
    Seriously your berating a riding member of this forum because they didn't promote Rainey's updated clutch. BTW the member "temagnus2004" pm'd me and I got back to him a little late and directed him to my posts as well as mentioned to him that Biker- Chickey just installed a new 2011 clutch. You've made it clear that your a big fan of Rainey's updated clutch and there is nothing wrong with that just as there should be nothing wrong with someone not being a big fan of Rainey's updated clutch. Rainey's updated clutch could be said to be a semi-updated clutch and much cheaper than my completely updated clutch. If I remember correctly my upgraded clutch has 18 upgrades and Rainey's has less. I don't see why my diagrams , text and Invoice posted on this forum would be much more complicated to read/view than Rainey's pictures and text. This isn't a contest about who has the better updated clutch this is about finding solutions to eliminate the bugs in this bike and giving Riders a choice too choose Rainey's semi- updated less expensive upgrade , my completely upgraded more expensive updated clutch or their own ideas of what upgrades they want to do on their clutch. Also my purpose in purchasing a completely upgraded more expensive clutch was to eliminate the severe clutch shudder I had on my 2007 - it did eliminate my clutch shudder and gave me other benefits as well which I may not have got if I had done a semi upgrade. So let the riders choose what they want and be happy for them - which ever clutch upgrade they choose to do if they're riding any models from 2006 to 2010 will surely be better than what they have now. All the best Thevili - enjoy your ride this weekend.


    Rainey was first member here,

    who pointed us to this upgrade already in Dec. 2015.

    He also explained exactly the reason the new 6 plate 2011 & Up

    clutch plates stack functions lot better then previous 5 plate ones.

    Together with different springs it operates easier and better.

    He also explained that there is no difference in size between

    previous and new hubs (only new numbers) so old one will

    function OK.

    Nowhere and in no time I put down your choice to replace

    all the parts with the new part#, but I agree with you that

    your choice is much more expensive and that's why I like to

    point that out as well, so (just like you wrote) interested parties

    can decide which route suits them better.

    There is a clear list of the "Raineys style" upgrade in that thread:

    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...=1#post3737250
    Last edited by thevili; 07-15-2017 at 09:06 AM.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  9. #157
    Very Active Member biker-chicky's Avatar
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    Default Installed a complete upgraded 2011 clutch on my 2007 M109R

    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    Rainey was first member here,

    who pointed us to this upgrade already in Dec. 2015.

    He also explained exactly the reason the new 6 plate 2011 & Up

    clutch plates stack functions lot better then previous 5 plate ones.

    Together with different springs it operates easier and better.

    He also explained that there is no difference in size between

    previous and new hubs (only new numbers) so old one will

    function OK.

    Nowhere and in no time I put down your choice to replace

    all the parts with the new part#, but I agree with you that

    your choice is much more expensive and that's why I like to

    point that out as well, so (just like you wrote) interested parties

    can decide which route suits them better.

    There is a clear list of the "Raineys style" upgrade in that thread:

    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...=1#post3737250
    Koodos to Rainey! Clutch Mod! This thread has nothing to do with Rainey as Stillfree has cleared above, thank you!

    I was looking for More then works OKay,
    I wanted a new clutch which I got, and it's better then OK, I do not see Rainey comparing new to old every part and there is a difference between the hubs. So one to each their own if they wish to go the extra mile. Since I had the work done at Suzuki, my bike is now in their data base as having a 2011 clutch! I'm very pleased with the fantastic performance.

    Also those hard mounts all the way around for me is not good. I'll be changing that back to stock as well. Good reasons for softer mounts up front is comfort! That's my only complaint.



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  10. #158
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Default This thread has nothing to do with Rainey?

    Quote Originally Posted by biker-chicky View Post
    Koodos to Rainey! Clutch Mod! This thread has nothing to do with Rainey as Stillfree has cleared above, thank you!

    I was looking for More then works OKay,
    I wanted a new clutch which I got, and it's better then OK, I do not see Rainey comparing new to old every part and there is a difference between the hubs. So one to each their own if they wish to go the extra mile.
    This thread has lot to do with Rainey,

    he is the originator of this mod, and if you read further you will find out that few US based guys

    followed his bright idea and attested it works flawlessly! Rainey helped with his mod to many

    Taiwanese Nines, and all work perfectly. No hub changed. That's why I said it is OK to reuse it.

    And that is what I am trying to pass on to the new members here.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  11. #159
    Very Active Member JUDAH-9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biker-chicky View Post
    Koodos to Rainey! Clutch Mod! This thread has nothing to do with Rainey as Stillfree has cleared above, thank you!

    I was looking for More then works OKay,
    I wanted a new clutch which I got, and it's better then OK, I do not see Rainey comparing new to old every part and there is a difference between the hubs. So one to each their own if they wish to go the extra mile. Since I had the work done at Suzuki, my bike is now in their data base as having a 2011 clutch! I'm very pleased with the fantastic performance.

    Also those hard mounts all the way around for me is not good. I'll be changing that back to stock as well. Good reasons for softer mounts up front is comfort! That's my only complaint.



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    Kudos to you BC, for standing your ground, sticking to what you believe, and doing what you felt was best for you and your bike/riding preference. It's always good for others to share information, but ultimately we all must respect one another's final decisions at the end of the day. Personally, I agree with your decision to go with a slightly more expensive full clutch upgrade, as opposed to what is considered a semi-upgrade, primarily because it costs less. If/whenever I come to that fork in the road, I'm certainly going with the full clutch upgrade.

    As for the mounts you mentioned, are you referring to the motor mounts? If so, can you please explain how the hard motor mounts create discomfort in your iriding? I thought they were to eliminate engine vibration. I have them on both my 9s, and I haven't experienced any discomfort.

  12. #160
    Very Active Member biker-chicky's Avatar
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    Default Installed a complete upgraded 2011 clutch on my 2007 M109R

    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    This thread has lot to do with Rainey,

    he is the originator of this mod, and if you read further you will find out that few US based guys

    followed his bright idea and attested it works flawlessly! Rainey helped with his mod to many

    Taiwanese Nines, and all work perfectly. No hub changed. That's why I said it is OK to reuse it.

    And that is what I am trying to pass on to the new members here.
    The originator of part up grades has to do with the manufacture Suzuki , lol your funny!

    Yes Rainey posted something similar first, that is so wonderful for him to share,Great, don't know what more you want here, we are moving onto updated stuff now. We are doing upgrades today, his posts are old, and he has not participated on the form for quite some time. I want my work/money spent to be recognized by Suzuki, and it has.

    Just know anyone can compare part numbers for fitment to different years, Rainey done it first, auto wreckers-salvage yards do it all the time, not a big secret. Stillfree saved a parts guy a tone of work, and shared his experience with us all, looks like your trying to undermine that experience. So what if the hubs are changed out or not, one to each their own.

    By the way do you know what the symptoms are of a bad hub?


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  13. #161
    Very Active Member biker-chicky's Avatar
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    Default Installed a complete upgraded 2011 clutch on my 2007 M109R

    Quote Originally Posted by JUDAH-9 View Post
    Kudos to you BC, for standing your ground, sticking to what you believe, and doing what you felt was best for you and your bike/riding preference. It's always good for others to share information, but ultimately we all must respect one another's final decisions at the end of the day. Personally, I agree with your decision to go with a slightly more expensive full clutch upgrade, as opposed to what is considered a semi-upgrade, primarily because it costs less. If/whenever I come to that fork in the road, I'm certainly going with the full clutch upgrade.

    As for the mounts you mentioned, are you referring to the motor mounts? If so, can you please explain how the hard motor mounts create discomfort in your iriding? I thought they were to eliminate engine vibration. I have them on both my 9s, and I haven't experienced any discomfort.
    Thank you.

    I noticed a fine steady vibration in the grips, foot pegs and my seat. I can feel every piston rotation, it was not like that before. Riding the 9 home in the rain, I had to stop and I called Suzuki, took the bike back asked the service manager to ride it to make sure it wasn't the clutch or the tire, he took in the back, came back and said it's the harder mounts I requested they put on. He assured me 100% it's the harder mounts. I found another thread where the guy had the same complaint a few years ago, he has not responded, but I did bring the thread forward. 2 other 9 ers took my 9 for a ride, they said my 9 is better then their bikes, one is a 2015 with the exact same mounts as my stock hard ones, which where done about 2000 km before mine and the other with still the original old worn out stock mounts. For me and my small hands I notice everything. The 9er with the 2015 said my grips are to large for my hands and to try to go back to the smaller ones, he also said the hard mounts will soften just give it some more miles, which I have and it is better by a bit, I shall give the old grips another go. I love ridding my 9, maybe I'm just to picky. I will put in the softer mounts when the opportunity comes up, for now I'm riding everyday and loving every minute! I can tolerate the fine vibration. It is a big Vtwin I must remember! Would like a few more rider opinions. Funny the 2015 9er said after his test run on my 9 said he was going to put his 9 back to stock and start over! his 9 is just to heavy for me to ride to compare. I may be due for that valve clearance check and what ever else is due, possibly even my shaft grease is due as well. I'll check my book.


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    Last edited by biker-chicky; 07-15-2017 at 02:57 PM.

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  14. #162
    Very Active Member Stillfree's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    This thread has lot to do with Rainey,

    he is the originator of this mod, and if you read further you will find out that few US based guys

    followed his bright idea and attested it works flawlessly! Rainey helped with his mod to many

    Taiwanese Nines, and all work perfectly. No hub changed. That's why I said it is OK to reuse it.

    And that is what I am trying to pass on to the new members here.
    Okay it's time to put these clutch wars to bed and let's hope by doing so Thevili will be able to sleep again: On behalf of Rainey Thevili , with his message above has once again brought to everyone's attention that Rainey was the first rider on this forum to go outside the box with his bright idea that helped a few US based guys and many Taiwanese Nines with his semi-updated clutch mod. When I did my research by cross referencing part numbers between the 2007 model and eventually the 2011 model I was unaware of who Rainey was or of the fact that he had posted a semi-upgraded clutch mod on the forum. After I posted my research results and the installation of a new completely updated 2011 clutch in my 2007 M109 I then heard from Thevili and for the first time I found out about Rainey. To be fair and unknown at the time to me Rainey was first but unknown to each other we basically had the same idea of thinking outside the box but our approaches to the final solution were different even though our outcome and results were similar. To eliminate the clutch shudder on my bike I choose to replace my 2007 clutch with a completely new 2011 clutch that came with 18 upgrades since 2006. I did this because after reading all the forums about the pin mod , lack of oil , wave washer etc it became clear that none of these fixes were permanent fixes for clutch shudder. I wanted something permanent and because of my mechanical background having been a Diesel mechanic in remote area bush camps in NWT , Inuvik and other Northern areas across Canada in the 1970's for about 10 years during my 20's I got used to finding ways to make things work better because in the bush we didn't always have the right parts to do the job so we improvised. This forum is about helping each other , sharing information and giving everyone choices. We are not in a contest with each other - we should not be berating , being verbally abusive , rude or obnoxious to anyone for any reason on this forum. We are supposed to be having fun and letting the cheap shots bounce off us with a big chuckle and a " okay I'll get you next time , LOL " attitude. I have talked with Rainey through the forum once or twice and I have no reason to think he is anything other than a great guy . I'm on this forum to learn ,help and meet other riders and for no other reason than that. I assume we all joined this forum for that reason and maybe there are some of us that have forgot that.
    Last edited by Stillfree; 07-16-2017 at 05:29 AM.

  15. #163
    Very Active Member rookiepg's Avatar
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    Default What Type of Engine Oil used before and after?

    Hello everyone,
    Thank you to all those who have made specific comments regarding the operations of the bike after this full 2011 install.

    Those who have done this full upgrade, can you comment to the type of motor oil you have used before and after this modification.

    Reason for my question is.....and keep in mind I haven't done this upgrade yet. I'm hoping to have it done before next summer.

    While riding in the extreme heat 28-32 Celsius in bumper to bumper traffic, I noticed my separation ability between motor and gear box got worse as I rode in stop and go heat and traffic. For example, clutch lever fully engaged but still getting some bike pull as though I was not fully disengaged from the motor. As though I needed another 1/2 an inch of clutch lever pull in order to fully disengage the gear.

    Ive run FULL 10w40 SYNTHETIC OIL since the bike hit 10,000 km's. I now have 59,000kms.

    Once I hit the highway and cruised for just 10 minutes then back to bumper to bumper again the problem lessened significantly but came back again after another 1/2 hour in bumper to bumper. I HATE big city traffic. I chalked up the lessened problem due to cooling of oil due to air flow.

    In advance,
    Thanks for your positive input.
    Paul
    SIGPIC]
    2008 Black M109R
    Prince George, BC. Canada
    MODS Begin: Speedometer Face Plate, Amsoil Full synthetic, C.W. back rest, 2'' chrome risers, Spear Air Intakes, Dunlop Elite III 250, LeatherLyke Saddlebags

  16. #164
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookiepg View Post
    Hello everyone,

    Those who have done this full upgrade, can you comment to the type of motor oil you have used before and after this modification.

    Paul
    This is super important, pay close attention, Use whatever you used before, or, use what the owners manual says. It makes no difference except just dont use energy conserving (says on the bottle).

  17. #165
    Very Active Member biker-chicky's Avatar
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    Default Installed a complete upgraded 2011 clutch on my 2007 M109R

    Quote Originally Posted by rookiepg View Post
    Hello everyone,
    Thank you to all those who have made specific comments regarding the operations of the bike after this full 2011 install.

    Those who have done this full upgrade, can you comment to the type of motor oil you have used before and after this modification.


    In advance,
    Thanks for your positive input.
    Paul
    Hello, before the upgrade we use this in our 2006 m109rs


    The Suzuki shop put in Suzuki 10W40 synthetic with the new clutch. I will be using the same oil for this season. Then I may go back to 76, we shall see. My gut says just to stick with suzuki synthetic.

    I empathize with you riding in bumper to bumper. I do like other bad bikers and pass really slowly on the right. If I get a ticket I will fight it, due to heat exhaustion and car exhaust.

    The big VTwin needs that wind for sure. I also put in the hotter spark plugs as suggested in the manual After looking at old plugs quite some time ago. It's been awhile but I'm due for new plugs, valve clearance and now fork seals. I'm at 63,000km. My bike behaves best when it hot, hot, hot.

    I've broken 2 clutch cables, keep an eye on your cable ends, and maybe send some lube down the casing. That's about all I can suggest. I love my new clutch, there's a big difference from the original to the new. I just took hubby's out and ya, 1-2 gear shifting is like 4x4 in low, and I get a bit of fast little tire spin when stopping on hills and launching off. My old clutch I also had to deal with the loose hub nut. I don't know if you've had to deal with that yet. Changing gears 1-2 becomes really troublesome then it's just stuck in gear. If that happens hopefully you can limp home without stopping.

    Good luck, keep us posted on your upgrade.



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    Last edited by biker-chicky; 07-25-2017 at 10:58 PM.

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  18. #166
    Very Active Member Stillfree's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by biker-chicky View Post
    Hello, before the upgrade we use this in our 2006 m109rs


    The Suzuki shop put in Suzuki 10W40 synthetic with the new clutch. I will be using the same oil for this season. Then I may go back to 76, we shall see. My gut says just to stick with suzuki synthetic.

    I empathize with you riding in bumper to bumper. I do like other bad bikers and pass really slowly on the right. If I get a ticket I will fight it, due to heat exhaustion and car exhaust.

    The big VTwin needs that wind for sure. I also put in the hotter spark plugs as suggested in the manual After looking at old plugs quite some time ago. It's been awhile but I'm due for new plugs, valve clearance and now fork seals. I'm at 63,000km. My bike behaves best when it hot, hot, hot.

    I've broken 2 clutch cables, keep an eye on your cable ends, and maybe send some lube down the casing. That's about all I can suggest. I love my new clutch, there's a big difference from the original to the new. I just took hubby's out and ya, 1-2 gear shifting is like 4x4 in low, and I get a bit of fast little tire spin when stopping on hills and launching off. My old clutch I also had to deal with the loose hub nut. I don't know if you've had to deal with that yet. Changing gears 1-2 becomes really troublesome then it's just stuck in gear. If that happens hopefully you can limp home without stopping.

    Good luck, keep us posted on your upgrade.



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    B4 and after I installed the 2011 clutch in my 2007 I have always used Mobil 1 10W40 synthetic oil

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  19. #167
    Very Active Member Stavros's Avatar
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    Default 2011 clutch

    My new clutch showed up this weekend...thanks for picking it up for me Stillfree...Im trying to finish insulating my garage so we wont freeze when we swap it out..
    Stav

  20. #168
    Very Active Member rookiepg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stavros View Post
    My new clutch showed up this weekend...thanks for picking it up for me Stillfree...Im trying to finish insulating my garage so we wont freeze when we swap it out..

    Stavos, will you be able to give it a test run when you're done? Would love to hear how it turns out?
    mines in the shop now. But it's -10c here so will have to wait until spring. :((

    On another note, my mechanic noticed my clutch cable getting ready to break again, I've already replaced it two summers ago with less than 15,000 km's on it I find this very suspicious. Anyone else have clutch cable issues?
    My mechanic believes it is more to do with lack of cleaning and greasing, rather than the hard pull my 08 requires due to this clutch issue.
    Any thoughts welcomed.
    Paul
    SIGPIC]
    2008 Black M109R
    Prince George, BC. Canada
    MODS Begin: Speedometer Face Plate, Amsoil Full synthetic, C.W. back rest, 2'' chrome risers, Spear Air Intakes, Dunlop Elite III 250, LeatherLyke Saddlebags

  21. #169
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookiepg View Post
    Stavos, will you be able to give it a test run when you're done? Would love to hear how it turns out?
    mines in the shop now. But it's -10c here so will have to wait until spring. :((

    On another note, my mechanic noticed my clutch cable getting ready to break again, I've already replaced it two summers ago with less than 15,000 km's on it I find this very suspicious. Anyone else have clutch cable issues?
    My mechanic believes it is more to do with lack of cleaning and greasing, rather than the hard pull my 08 requires due to this clutch issue.
    Any thoughts welcomed.
    Paul
    Get the new updated one with the Teflon like lining inside.

    I hear the first 2-3 years clutch cables did not have the lining...

    Something to look into, I do not see why later years cables

    wouldn't fit,.. Look into it...

    Also new clutch pack is supposedly lot easier on the cable

    and wrist because it requires different springs as well...

    You may have read about it here:

    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...=1#post3405481
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  22. #170
    Very Active Member rookiepg's Avatar
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    Sorry I should have also added that I have 3" risers and Motion Pro 3" cable with the lining on it.
    I am hoping the upgraded springs will prove their worth.
    Thanks for the info.
    Paul
    SIGPIC]
    2008 Black M109R
    Prince George, BC. Canada
    MODS Begin: Speedometer Face Plate, Amsoil Full synthetic, C.W. back rest, 2'' chrome risers, Spear Air Intakes, Dunlop Elite III 250, LeatherLyke Saddlebags

  23. #171
    Very Active Member Kazimodo's Avatar
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    Default

    you guys have it good , all this luxurious 2011 clutch upgrade is beautiful .
    ..all I did was mod the pin , never had clutch shudder before the mod , that helps a lot in deciding what changes to make ...
    ..always used Mobil 1 synthetic ,Motorcycle ol ; 20W50...
    ..
    the fancy stuff doing this , is getting the basket bolts back on ,and putting on the """minuscule torque specs """"
    ..luckily a lot of members warned me in many threads to not give it " just a little more , because they did , and the bolts snapped.
    .had to buy a mini torque wrench , no regrets .
    ..
    I like the better method of going 2011 , congrats.
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    Every Time You Lift Your Tank Beware Of This .

  24. #172
    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stavros View Post
    My new clutch showed up this weekend...thanks for picking it up for me Stillfree...I’m trying to finish insulating my garage so we won’t freeze when we swap it out..
    Kind off off topic....
    But have you looked into the spray foam insulation?
    I installed this a couple years ago my house I am remodeling and man what a difference.
    It is more expensive up front cost for sure but it pays you back in spades from that point out.
    Before my electric bill was between $350.00- $550.00 per month. (Depending on the time of year)
    Since insulating with the spray foam I have not seen a bill larger than $150.00. (Most times it is only around $120.00)
    The house is so much more comfortable also, its good stuff and I can highly recommend it.

    EDIT...To be fair I also upgraded my windows and doors and all 3 A/C systems in the house, so those have some bearing on the reduced energy cost also. But the spray foam insulation is still the best insulation I have ever used. I would never install anything else after using it.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 11-21-2017 at 03:01 PM.

  25. #173
    Very Active Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stavros View Post
    My new clutch showed up this weekend...thanks for picking it up for me Stillfree...Im trying to finish insulating my garage so we wont freeze when we swap it out..

    Let me know Andy, I'd love to come and help....see what it looks like cracked open.
    Brad

  26. #174
    Very Active Member biker-chicky's Avatar
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    Default Installed a complete upgraded 2011 clutch on my 2007 M109R

    Quote Originally Posted by Kazimodo View Post
    you guys have it good , all this luxurious 2011 clutch upgrade is beautiful .
    ..all I did was mod the pin , never had clutch shudder before the mod , that helps a lot in deciding what changes to make ...
    ..always used Mobil 1 synthetic ,Motorcycle ol ; 20W50...
    ..
    the fancy stuff doing this , is getting the basket bolts back on ,and putting on the """minuscule torque specs """"
    ..luckily a lot of members warned me in many threads to not give it " just a little more , because they did , and the bolts snapped.
    .had to buy a mini torque wrench , no regrets .
    ..
    I like the better method of going 2011 , congrats.
    Fantastic! There are not many of us who have done a complete upgrade. I just have one question. Did all the springs in your new hub giggle ? Not all of mine did. Im wondering if its because of balancing or what. https://youtu.be/fJY8Bc8ROq8

    And

    https://youtu.be/vbbsnUAiUaA

    I had mine done at the dealer, they also did the pin Mod.

    I have a very slight vibration, the dealer didnt think it was the clutch but the harder engin mount bushings I also had them install while it was somewhat apart.

    Let me know if you notice it in your handle bars and foot rests. Thanks.


    Riders Meet 2018, Nakusp BC. July 26-30.
    Planning stage. Location secured

    Riders Meet 2018, Nakusp BC. Date ?
    Planning stage. Location secured

  27. #175
    Very Active Member Stavros's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BradSmith View Post
    Let me know Andy, I'd love to come and help....see what it looks like cracked open.
    Brad

    100%. Can alway use some extra hands and eyes,so we do it once..,will be sometime in the new year soon as my lazer cataract surgery is healed..one eye at least..
    Last edited by Stavros; 11-28-2017 at 10:08 PM.
    Stav

  28. #176
    Very Active Member Stavros's Avatar
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Bering_C_Sparky View Post
    Kind off off topic....
    But have you looked into the spray foam insulation?
    I installed this a couple years ago my house I am remodeling and man what a difference.
    It is more expensive up front cost for sure but it pays you back in spades from that point out.
    Before my electric bill was between $350.00- $550.00 per month. (Depending on the time of year)
    Since insulating with the spray foam I have not seen a bill larger than $150.00. (Most times it is only around $120.00)
    The house is so much more comfortable also, its good stuff and I can highly recommend it.

    EDIT...To be fair I also upgraded my windows and doors and all 3 A/C systems in the house, so those have some bearing on the reduced energy cost also. But the spray foam insulation is still the best insulation I have ever used. I would never install anything else after using it.

    BCS

    I spraying some tight tight areas and all around the garage door and beams..like that stuff too
    Stav

  29. #177
    Very Active Member
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    Nov 2008
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    Newmarket, Ontario
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Stavros View Post
    100%. Can alway use some extra hands and eyes,so we do it once..,will be sometime in the new year soon as my later cataract surgery is healed..one eye at least..

    Cool, give me a heads up.... good luck with the eyes.

  30. #178
    Very Active Member rookiepg's Avatar
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    Jul 2009
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    Prince George, BC. Canada
    Posts
    451

    Default 2011 Clutch Installed on my 2008

    As promised, this is my $0.02 after installing the 2011 clutch upgrade on my 2008 M109R

    Prior to the install, was using Amsoil Full Synthetic 10w40.
    Hard at times, 85-90% of the time, down shifting 2nd to 1st, ALWAYS violently clunking or grinding into 2nd gear especially if I'm powering out of 1st, This did not occur if I shifted before 30 - 40kmph.........borrrrring.
    Clutch pull was average but tougher than other bikes. I'm not a burly man but not a pencil stick either.
    Shuddering occurred, with increased frequency as the miles progressed on the odometer. Currently @ 63,000 Km's

    Certified mechanic (only guy I trust working on my bikes) installed the complete kit. Close approximation of cost for parts $1200.00, Labour $500.00

    Post install:
    One complication - the damn clutch cable. With aftermarket risers & aftermarket cable, so 3'' longer. This cable was soon to be breaking after only 2 summers of riding with it. (Will return to this later) Needless to say, it did affect gear engagement.

    Shifting down into 1st from 2nd has gotten much smoother. Almost smooth every time.
    Shifting up from 1st to second, smoother, but still with it's clunks and grinds. The less I race the bike from a stand still the less the clunking and grinding. Zip up to 50-60kmph then shift some clunk & grind. Increase to 50kmph like a civilized human being, less clunk & grind.
    I have had one shudder experience since riding with the new clutch. Approximately 1500km's mostly in town riding with the new clutch.

    Sadly, my expectation of this more expensive upgrade was believing, hoping, wishing..... it would ELIMINATE this all together.
    It Does Not!!!
    I am okay with the upgrade but it will not remove the problems all together.

    My mechanic has recommended trying a different oil. Can't think of the name at the moment. From his experience and expertise he stated some manufactured oils work better with some bikes than others. After being in the business for over 25yrs, like I said, I trust his expertise. Again, he cautions me, this will not remove the problem all together, but possibly help it along.

    The clutch cable.
    A very important part of this issue. 1st and foremost, before going ahead with any clutch upgrades, make sure your clutch cable has been adjusted properly. AND it has been properly cleaned and lubed.

    There truly is a noticed difference when you have your clutch cable properly adjusted and lubed. The pull is easier and will feel lighter. This will also assist in ensuring the clutch pull is full and not partial, thus helping the gear changing issues.

    The longevity of life span for this clutch cable will increase significantly when you make sure you clean and lube said cable. I've asked my mechanic to show & teach me how to do this properly. This will be done after EVERY season of riding. You wouldn't believe the amount of road grime that works it's way into the cable line from the top and the bottom.

    I hope this helps other members. If anyone has any questions, feel free to ask here and or message me.
    Rubber side down and shiny side up folks. Happy trails this summer.
    Paul
    SIGPIC]
    2008 Black M109R
    Prince George, BC. Canada
    MODS Begin: Speedometer Face Plate, Amsoil Full synthetic, C.W. back rest, 2'' chrome risers, Spear Air Intakes, Dunlop Elite III 250, LeatherLyke Saddlebags

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