Secondary Drive Bevel gear retaining bolt sheared off - Page 2
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Thread: Secondary Drive Bevel gear retaining bolt sheared off

  1. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRod View Post
    This is some out of the box thinking, I think, but here's my suggestion.

    That bolt is really nothing special. Oh, it has a fancy flanged head on it but that can be replicated with just a washer. All one really needs it a bolt that is the same size/length with the same thread in a decent quality (which the stock bolt appeared to be lacking in). A grade 8 (or the metric equal) would certainly do the job.

    I can see why that bolt would not be stocked anywhere. I'm sure that history of bikes prior to your shows that bolt being a very low demand item and I suspect that few have broken for many thousands of bikes sold. There's really not much reason for it to break so there are virtually none sold so the computer says don't put any in stock. It really is as simple as supply and demand.

    Anyway, if you want to fix it see if you can find a metric bolt that is the same size/length/pitch and put a washer under the head of it, put it back together and go ride. Maybe there's not a bolt out there that's the same but it wouldn't take long to figure that out. Probably a fraction of the time you've spent ranting about it here.
    Quote Originally Posted by TRod View Post
    Well, that bolt that you had wasn't very well made or it wouldn't have broken. And, there is virtually no load on that bolt other than the torque being applied to it to install it. The gear is simply being held on with it. The force is constantly pushing the gear towards the motor, not pulling on it.

    I would not have any issue whatsoever putting a grade 8 metric equal in it's place if I wanted to ride the bike. If you do end up getting an actual Suzuki bolt sometime later then you can change it out.

    I guess it depends on whether you want to actually ride or sit around and bitch about not being able to ride.

    I know where you're coming from.... but I ordered the replacement from suzuki anyway.

    ..and there is load put on it. it's a helical cut bevel gear.

    it doesn't just transfer motion, the teeth are helical cut. it pushes and pulls also... and might break under hard deceleration.
    '09 M90 - Current Status: waking the dead.

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  3. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by evil0990 View Post
    I know where you're coming from.... but I ordered the replacement from suzuki anyway.

    ..and there is load put on it. it's a helical cut bevel gear.

    it doesn't just transfer motion, the teeth are helical cut. it pushes and pulls also... and might break under hard deceleration.
    The force is always push. The gears are always trying to climb out of each other. The helix is just to make them stonger and less noisey.

  4. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by TRod View Post
    The force is always push. The gears are always trying to climb out of each other. The helix is just to make them stonger and less noisey.
    Well regardless, there must be a heck of a lot of force put on that gear if it snapped a grade 10 bolt?

    I can't wait to get it back together so I can hear how loud it is now...

    I grew up on hardly's and I know they're a pill in their own right but dang it they sound so gooooood.
    '09 M90 - Current Status: waking the dead.

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  6. #34
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    Bolt arrived today.

    I was only able to torque it to 112ish lb-ft against compression in 1st gear.

    They spec 115.5

    I'm not going to worry about it. i gave it a couple extra pulls.

    Waiting for my wife to get home with rtv and brakleen.

    The backlash (by feel) seems to be right where it should be. It's going back together tonight.
    '09 M90 - Current Status: waking the dead.

  7. #35
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    OMFG is it ever loud.

    I might look into some tunable baffle inserts.




    Naaahhhhhhh. 5:30AM is a completely OK time to wake up neighbors.

    Rode to work today. Swingarm feels flexy. I didn't find any extra parts, so I'm not sure what's going on there. I mean.. it's not a LOT.. or it could be because I'm riding on gravel.

    No more power shifting into 2nd for me, and no more ridiculous engine braking either. I kinda wanna keep it alive, I guess. Maybe I'd keep the Hayabusa if they sent me one. Maybe.
    Last edited by evil0990; 09-07-2016 at 06:50 AM.
    '09 M90 - Current Status: waking the dead.

  8. #36
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    Still going strong, no new noises other than the violence of the exhaust.

    Changing oil again real soon.
    '09 M90 - Current Status: waking the dead.

  9. #37
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    It's been more days. My confidence has grown in the repair and I'm back to sparking the pegs. I've been more cautious about my downshifting, and I've also quit letting it buck against the low traction (spin/grab/spin/grab/repeat) on my local garbage roads. Sharing these backroads with overloaded gravel trucks is not very joyful or easy on my back.. they warp the road so bad the repairs actually make it worse.

    Anyhoo, oil has been changed twice in rapid succession with no grit on the drain plug magnet. I'll be pulling the speed sensor to check for filings some time this week. Changed the diff fluid while I was at it.

    Fuel mileage doesn't seem any worse that it already was when I was using the upper region of the tach frequently, so that's a plus.
    '09 M90 - Current Status: waking the dead.

  10. #38
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    Default Repair time and procedure?

    Quote Originally Posted by evil0990 View Post
    Bolt arrived today.

    I was only able to torque it to 112ish lb-ft against compression in 1st gear.

    They spec 115.5

    I'm not going to worry about it. i gave it a couple extra pulls.

    Waiting for my wife to get home with rtv and brakleen.

    The backlash (by feel) seems to be right where it should be. It's going back together tonight.
    How was the process to remove the sheared off bolt, and to install the new one? This just happened to my M90 a few days ago. New bolt will be here in a few days, and then time to put back together. Are there any helpful hints or secrets to replacing the bolt? Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks, Dean.

  11. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by deancwest View Post
    How was the process to remove the sheared off bolt, and to install the new one? This just happened to my M90 a few days ago. New bolt will be here in a few days, and then time to put back together. Are there any helpful hints or secrets to replacing the bolt? Any help would be appreciated.

    Thanks, Dean.
    Probably way too late to be any help to you, but maybe to others.

    Make sure the bike is jacked up on a bike lift and secured with straps and a block under the front wheel so it doesn't tip when you take the weight off the rear. I removed the crosspin that locates the swingarm in the frame.. Also removed the rear caliper and the brake line bolts that hold the brake line, so I could droop the swingarm and not smash anything or bend the brake line all up. Once you get the clip that holds the universal joint to the output shaft removed, the swingarm should pull back enough that you can get the bolts on the rear of the output shaft housing undone.. They're an 8mm allen.. I used a 3/8" allen socket. Once you have those off and the cover removed, BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL when pulling the bevel gear shaft out.. mine fell out, but didn't appear to take any damage.. figured I'd mention it just as a precaution.

    ..Now, on to the bolt extraction:

    1: use a center punch on what's left of the bolt..
    2: USE HIGH QUALITY DRILL BITS!!! (I used MAC cobalt bits), and make SURE you're drilling perfectly parallel with the bolt, in the CENTER of the bolt. I think I ended up starting with a 3/16" bit and ended at a 5/16" drill.
    3: make sure you're using a quality EZ-out. I had Snap-On ez-outs available, so that's what I used.

    I can't remember much about the u-joint clip or whatever, I just remember it being a pain in the ass.

    I was going to do a really thorough write-up on this but I never got that far. :-(
    '09 M90 - Current Status: waking the dead.

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