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Clutch cable issues?

2K views 33 replies 10 participants last post by  Nemo 
#1 ·
I do not currently have a cable issue and just ordered a cable lube tool and cable lube to keep them in good running condition. My question is in regard to the issue of the cable prematurely giving up the ghost?

Is it because the clutch is manual or are the stock cables weak? Are there better replacements? I know all cables ware and can break but if there are tricks on the 9 to minimize ware of better replacements please chime in.
 
#2 ·
It has to do with the factory cable routing and rubbing on an engine mount. Changing that route along with proper maintenance (lube), the original stock cable will last a LONG time. BUT......I ALWAYS carry a spare!
 
#3 ·
I agree, make sure it is routed outside the engine mount. The mount will put stress on the cable under acceleration which is stretching the cable which in turn causes the Premature failures. Follow the how-to here on replacement of the clutch cable. It has pics of where it needs to be routed. I can tell when I put my bike in 1st gear, by the jump, if I need to adjust my cable some. It only takes a minutes to check and adjust anyways.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
 
#4 ·
The main issue with the clutch cable is it being adjusted too tight. The cable naturally tightens when you romp on the motor (as the engine internals move) so there has to be enough slack to allow for that movement so the lever doesn't get tight.

If you reach for the lever as you romp on the motor there needs to be the slightest bit of movement before it gets tight.
 
#5 ·
Exactly, right on the money. Mine broke at 20,000 miles and eight years old. Fortunately had a spare under the seat, as I do today. My original lasted eight years even though I never re-routed it. My new one is routed exactly like it was originally. Never had a problem with it. But being too tight keeps the cable loaded up full time. Adjusted properly, the cable is relaxed when riding. Takes the strain off the ends (where mine broke, the cable pulled out of the lower barrel). I had mine adjusted properly, so I guess it was just something that was going to happen. Been riding since 76, never had a cable let go on me. First time for everything.

BTW: if your bike is a 06 or 07, the newer cables are a whole lot better than the original. Much smoother and less friction. Me likey!!
 
#14 ·
#18 ·
Those two pictures above. the lower barrel is like the one on my bike, has that little sleeve the barrel is in. The upper picture shows a bare barrel. I don't think we need to lubricate it if it has that sleeve. Guess it doesn't hurt anything. I've never lubed the barrels on mine. When mine broke, it was at the lower end. Cable pulled out of the barrel. Lube wouldn't have prevented that from happening.
 
#25 ·
Man I tell you I am not impressed with this cable lube tool. I ended up with more lube on the bike than in the cable! It just would not seal up. I think it had a factory defect. The rubber on the end where the cable sticks out seems to be deformed from the mold. Oh well back to the ziplock baggies.
 
#27 ·
A good one like my 30 yr old one is invaluable. A new *********** version is bound to be ****e. And the barrel end of your cable has a plastic cuff as its gasket for the twist. Good ol vaseline is best. Its waterproof and clear.

RIDE ALL YOU CAN. LIFE IS SHORT.
 
#29 ·
Trying to recall the name of the stuff I use. It has a very thin metal tip on it, that fits right into the cable. Nothing else required. Green and black bottle. It's dark and raining, or I would go out to the garage and look at it. I'll post it tomorrow is someone else doesn't beat me to it.

Ah, the old brain remembered it while I was typing. Dri Slide. It's meant to do exactly what you need it for, lube cables.

https://www.google.com/webhp?source...ie=UTF-8#q=dri+slide+cable+lubricant&tbm=shop
 
#34 ·
Thanks for the reminder

I will go out and do my stock cable now...............
 
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