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Upgrade your Clutch System

47K views 81 replies 28 participants last post by  Zoom 
#1 ·
We can referred the 06-09 M109 as the first generation 109, and the 10-on as the second. What's difference between the two gens is not only in the redesigned tachometer but most importantly, the clutch system. We have learned that when entering first gear the impact of gears collision deteriorate significantly with the 10-on models. The inconvenience of shifting from first to second gear on the 06-09 models has been improved. The root of the problem lies on the five clutch plates in the old gens that when in motion, the friction between the plates are not enough without the bigger kg/m clutch spring, which is also the reason why we have to pull pretty hard when reaching the clutch lever. What's worse is that this clutch spring will experience elastic fatigue after consistent usage for two years. The second gens clutch system altered into six clutch plates to increase its friction and lower the kg/m of the spring. The result is easier and more comfortable when reaching the lever and longer lifespan for the clutch spring as well. Revo-cycles has successfully help many of our riders to upgrade their 06-09 models' clutch system into 10-on's.:doorag:

Wheel Automotive tire Rim Bicycle part Composite material

2012 on the left, 2008 on the right

Automotive tire Wheel Bicycle part Rim Tire

Although the OEM part number is different, both of them shares the same sizes.
Light Product Composite material Tableware Rectangle


2012 has become lighter
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Rim

The clutch pressure disk on the outside is the same, so all you need to do is change the clutch plates, clutch driven plate and springs to finish the upgrade.
Tire Gas Wheel Audio equipment Automotive tire

2012 on the left, with softer handling that is more comfortable for longer ride.


 
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#3 ·
So am I understanding this right?
You are saying the guts of an 06-09 clutch can be directly swapped for an 10-current model and this "should" greatly improve the shift from 1-2?
If all I need to do is upgrade the plates and springs to have the better functioning clutch this could be a great mod for us older model guys.

I take it you have done this swap?
 
#4 ·
So am I understanding this right?
You are saying the guts of an 06-09 clutch can be directly swapped for an 10-current model and this "should" greatly improve the shift from 1-2?
If all I need to do is upgrade the plates and springs to have the better functioning clutch this could be a great mod for us older model guys.

I take it you have done this swap?
That is what he is saying, also that he had done it several times...
 
#5 ·
First off, I have never for one moment thought the clutch pull of my 06 is hard. NOT EVEN CLOSE! Ever ridden a bike with a really stout Barnett racing clutch? That's hard. My 2006 M109R has a super easy clutch pull.

As for duration, mine's now going on ten years old and still works like a charm. Not one problem with the clutch since I bought the bike new in July 2006. Every once-in-a-blue-moon, I get the shudder. Haven't had it for months now. If I warm the bike up good, and pull the clutch in and give it a few brisk revs, I never get the shudder at all. All I have to do is remember to do those, and it's all good. I've had bikes before where that was necessary, or the clutch plates would stick together.

I have no intention of ever having the clutch cover off my bike, as long as it keeps functioning as it does now. Which is to say: PERFECTLY!

I know others have had problems. Those have always been hit-or-miss. I've read of others besides myself, who have never has one problem with their early models. You got to do what you got to do. If swapping out the internals fixes those bad ones, GREAT! I myself, do not feel the need to waste my time (or money) doing that since mine functions so well.
 
#19 · (Edited)
Every once-in-a-blue-moon, I get the shudder. Haven't had it for months now. If I warm the bike up good, and pull the clutch in and give it a few brisk revs, I never get the shudder at all. All I have to do is remember to do those, and it's all good.
My 06 is new to me and I have had the shudder a few times...Just trying to figure out what I'm doing wrong if my revs are too low or I am too slow to release the clutch. Any other tips you guys have to help prevent this?
 
#6 ·
I'm in a similar boat. I have a 2009 and have not had any clutch issues. Have not had any issues going from 1-2 either - in fact, I think the shift is pretty smooth. Occasionally, I've gotten the RPM's wrong and the shift was like a Mack truck but that is rare. That said, I don't know if the previous owner did an y upgrades (shift star or plates) but I don't think so. I've been told my clutch pull is hard but I manage.
 
#7 ·
I agree on the first-to-second as well. Once in a while, less than once a year, I blow it somehow. And get a gnarly rough shift. Usually I can shift from first-to-second at any rpm I desire with no hysterics. It was pretty bad when I first got the bike, but it's just kept getting better and better the longer I've owned it. I'm not out there putting around either. Riding it pretty hard and getting the rpm's up near red line in first and second gear. If I thought there was a problem, I'd address it. I would not sell the bike because of it, I love this bike way too much to get rid of it over something that can be fixed.
 
#8 ·
Bringing this thread as I'm about to do this upgrade on my 08. I'll report back after I'm done. I've done the pin mod to elim the shudder already, but now, I'm slipping at above 4k RPM under load. I can't wait to see if there's a big diff here and I'll let y'all know.
 
#9 ·
Nice, would really like to hear how it goes for you. This is high on my list of Mods to do.
I cant say I've experienced the "shudder" all that much. Maybe once. But I am very interested in having my bike run as good as it can.

Good luck. Report back soon.
 
#17 ·
Yea Clutch problems are a pain in the a$$. Mines failed on me during MAM 2012 when we were right in the middle of that ride from Tazwell VA to Marion VA. (Rt 16 aka Back of the Dragon). Couldn't ride the bike in any gear past 2nd and could only go 25mph. I was scared as hell, didn't think I was gonna make it through. Luckily I have BigPapa a stone's throw away, so we ordered the plates and he helped install after the meet.

Haven't had any issues since, but seeing sometimes this is a reoccurring thing, plus I didn't do the pushpin mod or check the tubular nut, I figure to check it out this season while my bike is down.
 
#18 ·
OK, so does this work on the C109rt? Can I use an M109 clutch in my bike? Do I purchase a 2010 M109 clutch kit? I know, so many questions. One more, does a bike's clutch have a throw out bearing like a car and if so why doesn't it come in the clutch kit? OK, I lied, one more question. What should I buy, when replacing the clutch, that doesn't come in the kit and is there a preferred after market kit? Now I'm done. :bigthumbsup:
 
#24 ·
Hey guys,

So I am interested in this mod for my 08 shudder machine. Actually I did the pin mod a few years ago and the shudder is gone but ever since then I have had issues with the bike pulling in first gear with the clutch pulled in. Now its getting to the point that it can hardly shift down when coasting or coming to a stop and have to match the engine speed to the transmission to shift (like shifting without the clutch) It seems that the clutch really isn't working at all except when at a stop it does generally disengage the engine. Also its been darn near impossible to get into neutral at a stop light with the engine running. As soon as the engine is off it goes right into neutral no problem.

So long story but now I'm thinking I'll just replace the clutch all together and wonder what parts I must buy. I'd like to replace the pin (modded) as well and am hoping there is a good replacement that fixes the shudder issue out of the box.

In this mod do I need to change the basket? Can I just order the clutch fibers and plates and springs and new pin and be done with it? Is there a list of required parts somewhere?

If anyone has other clutch advice for me I'd gladly take it.

Thanks!!!
 
#25 ·
In this mod do I need to change the basket? Can I just order the clutch fibers and plates and springs and new pin and be done with it? Is there a list of required parts somewhere?

If anyone has other clutch advice for me I'd gladly take it.
No on the basket. Stock works perfectly. New plates are thinner, so fit right in.

Plates #5,9 and 10 are a must as well as springs. But since you're in there and have spent that much, might as well replace the other 3 components. You can get away without replacing #6.

I wouldn't replace the pin. No need unless you think you didn't mod it correctly the first time.

No advice needed really. It's just a clutch swap. Make sure to torque properly.

Now did you tighten/lock tight the Nut holding on the primary drive gear when you went in the first time? That's the nut that loosens itself over time. If not, you'll want to do that requiring a special tool, good 6pt socket and torque wrench / quality impact gun.

For reference on all mentioned above:

http://poisnus.com/M109RFiles/M109R Clutch Replacement.pdf
 
#39 ·
Bike moves when I put it in gear after the upgrade

Hello Guys, I just completed the 2007 to 2011 clutch upgrade. My clutch was slipping in second gear around 4000. I changed out the complete clutch pack. Now when I put the bike in gear it starts to move. I noticed that the new clutch pack was taller than the old one. Has anyone else experienced this?
 
#40 ·
Hello Guys, I just completed the 2007 to 2011 clutch upgrade. My clutch was slipping in second gear around 4000. I changed out the complete clutch pack. Now when I put the bike in gear it starts to move. I noticed that the new clutch pack was taller than the old one. Has anyone else experienced this?
I know it all fit back in w/out issue and had been working gr8 since installation last year.

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#44 ·
The free play at the lower end of the cable isnt enough. Had this same issue then I replaced mine.
You need to adjust the lower arm before you adjust at the lever. By not having enough free play at the bottom even is you have enough at the lever its not letting the clutch fully disengage.

How I check mine is when I have the clutch pulled in i let my heels just keep the bike up and see if the bike moves. I do this in the garage on a flat and level surface.

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#50 ·
Have 06 m109R. Clutch not right hard to shift 1-3 especially when motor gets warm. I can be driving at around 50 pull clutch in and rev bike and bike will shutter real bad. Sitting at stop ligght pull in clutch and rev up and the bike will try to take off and feels like something jerks real hard horrible sound. Bought a new clutch cable been adjusted twice. So I am going to try to upgrade to the 2011 clutch and make hydraulic.
 
#60 ·
If you know you adjusted the push pin then look at the free play at the bottom of the clutch cable arm. If there isnt enough slack at the bottom the clutch will remain engaged.

When I did my clutch had the same prob.

Disconnect the cable at the lever and adjust the slack according to the book. Then hook the cable at the lever and adjust for the slack there.

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#63 ·
Even though I keep a spare cable on my bike, the one time I had a cable break, I was close enough to home and just decided to ride it home sans cable. Wasn't a problem. I was about two miles away with a neighborhood in between. Rode into the neighborhood, and just floated all the stop signs. It was a weekday and there was no traffic, so it wasn't a problem. I kept it in the lower three gears and shifted it easily without the clutch. When I got near to my garage, shifted it into neutral from first without any trouble, hit the garage opened button and coasted into my garage.

I regularly shift without the clutch even with a good cable. Even from first-to-second. It's a bit more abrupt than the cable shift makes it, but it works fine if you know how to do it.

What's that old saying, If it ain't broke, don't fix it. I thought about doing this mod, but more for the fact that it would make the bikes appearance more symmetrical. THe mirror mounts are placed differently on the left versus the right side. I just decided I have better things to spend my money on than this mod. A new cable kept in the Corbin Smuggler is cheaper.
 
#64 ·
I've had a lot of bikes and manual transmission cars over the years and have always found the sweet spots where I didn't have to use the clutch.

Have broken cables on 2 bikes and it was a PITA so that's why I did this mod. And like you say, it makes it more symmetrical as well. It didn't cost that much as I found the master cylinder complete on Ebay for $65 so then it was just the cost of the slave and hose.

I have always enjoyed doing all my own work since I was a kid. I guess it's my hobby.
 
#65 ·
My 2007 was jumping from stopped to 1st gear here and there. I took it in and they are replacing the clutch plates. I read about the upgrade from 5 to 6 clutch plates. I went back to the shop and asked about that option and they said the parts list showed 12 clutch plates. I’m guessing that means 12 divided by 2 equals 6. Why would they show 12? Anyone know? They said they just ordered what Suzuki had listed for that year. Did Suzuki change what they stock for ‘07?


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#66 ·
Motor vehicle Font Automotive exterior Automotive wheel system Automotive lighting
My 2007 was jumping from stopped to 1st gear here and there. I took it in and they are replacing the clutch plates. I read about the upgrade from 5 to 6 clutch plates. I went back to the shop and asked about that option and they said the parts list showed 12 clutch plates. I'm guessing that means 12 divided by 2 equals 6. Why would they show 12? Anyone know? They said they just ordered what Suzuki had listed for that year. Did Suzuki change what they stock for '07?

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maybe 12 with the washers and spacers https://www.bikebandit.com/oem-parts/2017-suzuki-boulevard-m109r-vzr1800l7/o/m161316#sch1020725
 
#68 ·
A new clutch cable was installed in the spring. The adjustment threads at the handle actually broke and that’s why I brought it in this time and figured I’d have them fix the issue. The clutch snagging/grabbing was there before and after the clutch cable repair.


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