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  1. #31
    Very Active Member mlrman's Avatar
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    Sounds good, thanks man.

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  3. #32
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlrman View Post
    Can anyone explain why there are alternate clutch drive plates to #6? (7,8 in diagram?) Thanks.
    Quote Originally Posted by edwilk55 View Post
    It was asked / answered in a separate post I found when researching. The word was just stick with 6 (std part # when ordering), but I can't recall why.


    Sent from my Apple brain boiler...tapped by the NSA, hacked by the FBI!
    It has to do with the thickness of the stack up. Your suppose to get the measurement and based on that measurement, go with the proper drive plate #6, #7, or #8. I stayed with #6 when I changed my clutch out and havent had any issues.

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  4. #33
    Very Active Member rookiepg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwilk55 View Post
    Clutch is in. Fits perfectly.

    Initial impressions with the 8 miles I was able to ride is it's great. Clutch pull is easier. 1-2 shifts aren't as notchy.

    I'll give another update after I put some miles on this coming Sunday.

    Havent seen any updates so I thought I'd give ya a nudge. :)
    I assume you've put on many more miles than above. What do you think of the upgrade? What are the differences you've noticed from before. Anything you're still not completely satisfied with?
    Thanks for the info.

    Still chilled in BC, Canada.
    Paul
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    2008 Black M109R
    Prince George, BC. Canada
    MODS Begin: Speedometer Face Plate, Amsoil Full synthetic, C.W. back rest, 2'' chrome risers, Spear Air Intakes, Dunlop Elite III 250, LeatherLyke Saddlebags

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  6. #34
    Very Active Member edwilk55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookiepg View Post
    Havent seen any updates so I thought I'd give ya a nudge. :)
    I assume you've put on many more miles than above. What do you think of the upgrade? What are the differences you've noticed from before. Anything you're still not completely satisfied with?
    Thanks for the info.

    Still chilled in BC, Canada.
    Paul
    So far, so good. It's an exact fit, just a better design.

    Smoother clutch pull and, from what I've read, stronger grab.

    I highly recommend of you're going to do the clutch anyway. It's a win win.


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  7. #35
    Very Active Member rookiepg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwilk55 View Post
    So far, so good. It's an exact fit, just a better design.

    Smoother clutch pull and, from what I've read, stronger grab.

    I highly recommend of you're going to do the clutch anyway. It's a win win.


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    1st to 2nd issues? And the reverse, (downshifting)
    sounds like you're only recommending this upgrade IF the bike is in immediate need of it.
    Cheers
    SIGPIC]
    2008 Black M109R
    Prince George, BC. Canada
    MODS Begin: Speedometer Face Plate, Amsoil Full synthetic, C.W. back rest, 2'' chrome risers, Spear Air Intakes, Dunlop Elite III 250, LeatherLyke Saddlebags

  8. #36
    Very Active Member edwilk55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookiepg View Post
    1st to 2nd issues? And the reverse, (downshifting)
    sounds like you're only recommending this upgrade IF the bike is in immediate need of it.
    Cheers
    1st to 2nd is more precise. I don't recall the last time I had a missed shift or the clunk.

    It's pricy, so yeah, don't think I'd say it's worth the spend over stock. My humble .02.


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  9. #37
    Very Active Member rookiepg's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwilk55 View Post
    1st to 2nd is more precise. I don't recall the last time I had a missed shift or the clunk.

    It's pricy, so yeah, don't think I'd say it's worth the spend over stock. My humble .02.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    I always appreciate a members 0.02$ ESPECIALLY if they have personal experience with the matter. So thank you for that. :)
    Once it was all said and done, what was your finally cost?
    Cheers
    SIGPIC]
    2008 Black M109R
    Prince George, BC. Canada
    MODS Begin: Speedometer Face Plate, Amsoil Full synthetic, C.W. back rest, 2'' chrome risers, Spear Air Intakes, Dunlop Elite III 250, LeatherLyke Saddlebags

  10. #38
    Very Active Member mlrman's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by rookiepg View Post
    I always appreciate a members 0.02$ ESPECIALLY if they have personal experience with the matter. So thank you for that. :)
    Once it was all said and done, what was your finally cost?
    Cheers
    another member shared this with me before I did the mod last year:
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Last edited by mlrman; 02-22-2017 at 01:51 PM.

  11. #39
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    Default Bike moves when I put it in gear after the upgrade

    Hello Guys, I just completed the 2007 to 2011 clutch upgrade. My clutch was slipping in second gear around 4000. I changed out the complete clutch pack. Now when I put the bike in gear it starts to move. I noticed that the new clutch pack was taller than the old one. Has anyone else experienced this?

  12. #40
    Very Active Member edwilk55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bim28 View Post
    Hello Guys, I just completed the 2007 to 2011 clutch upgrade. My clutch was slipping in second gear around 4000. I changed out the complete clutch pack. Now when I put the bike in gear it starts to move. I noticed that the new clutch pack was taller than the old one. Has anyone else experienced this?
    I know it all fit back in w/out issue and had been working gr8 since installation last year.



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  13. #41
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bim28 View Post
    Hello Guys, I just completed the 2007 to 2011 clutch upgrade. My clutch was slipping in second gear around 4000. I changed out the complete clutch pack. Now when I put the bike in gear it starts to move. I noticed that the new clutch pack was taller than the old one. Has anyone else experienced this?
    Did you adjust first the push pin and then both ends of the clutch cable according the 'Shop Manual'?

    PS.

    I hope you also changed the springs as posted by Rainey.
    Last edited by thevili; 04-04-2017 at 12:01 PM.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  14. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    Did you adjust first the push pin and then both ends of the clutch cable according the 'Shop Manual'?

    PS.

    I hope you also changed the springs as posted by Rainey.
    I left about a 1/4" of play for the push pin. I adjusted the clutch lever. I didn't change the springs. I still have the stock springs.

  15. #43
    Very Active Member edwilk55's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bim28 View Post
    I left about a 1/4" of play for the push pin. I adjusted the clutch lever. I didn't change the springs. I still have the stock springs.
    You need the springs that go with it if I remember correctly. I know I changed those as well.


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  16. #44
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    The free play at the lower end of the cable isnt enough. Had this same issue then I replaced mine.
    You need to adjust the lower arm before you adjust at the lever. By not having enough free play at the bottom even is you have enough at the lever its not letting the clutch fully disengage.

    How I check mine is when I have the clutch pulled in i let my heels just keep the bike up and see if the bike moves. I do this in the garage on a flat and level surface.

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  17. #45
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bim28 View Post
    I left about a 1/4" of play for the push pin. I adjusted the clutch lever. I didn't change the springs. I still have the stock springs.
    I have not done this myself, but will be soon . In the Suzuki Service Manual it is described like this:

    • Loosen the lock nut and screw in the release screw to feel resistance.
    • From that position, turn out the release screw 1 full turn and tighten the lock nut securely by holding the release screw.

    If you don't have 'Service Manual' download it here:

    http://www.mediafire.com/file/m2zniy...ice+manual.pdf

    You can double check the procedure on page 163, (paragraph 3-111)

    PS.

    One needs to replace the old guts with "ALL" these new ones:
    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...=1#post3737250

    and the 'Push Pin' adjustment is here:

    post img
    Last edited by thevili; 04-04-2017 at 02:46 PM.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  18. #46
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    Thanks Guys, I appreciate all the feedback. I will pull it apart this weekend.

  19. #47
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    I have not done this myself, but will be soon . In the Suzuki Service Manual it is described like this:

    • Loosen the lock nut and screw in the release screw to feel resistance.
    • From that position, turn out the release screw 1 full turn and tighten the lock nut securely by holding the release screw.

    If you don't have 'Service Manual' download it here:

    http://www.mediafire.com/file/m2zniy...ice+manual.pdf

    You can double check the procedure on page 163, (paragraph 3-111)

    PS.

    One needs to replace the old guts with "ALL" these new ones:
    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...=1#post3737250

    and the 'Push Pin' adjustment is here:

    post img
    Do you have an updated link for the manual? The one you listed gives me an error. Im try to download a copy to my new cell.

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  20. #48
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    Do you have an updated link for the manual? The one you listed gives me an error. Im try to download a copy to my new cell.
    It does work with my desktop, I just double checked it.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  21. #49
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Default 2011-up clutch hub quieter

    Last edited by thevili; 06-19-2017 at 01:49 PM. Reason: spelling
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  22. #50
    Very Active Member kshackelford's Avatar
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    Have 06 m109R. Clutch not right hard to shift 1-3 especially when motor gets warm. I can be driving at around 50 pull clutch in and rev bike and bike will shutter real bad. Sitting at stop ligght pull in clutch and rev up and the bike will try to take off and feels like something jerks real hard horrible sound. Bought a new clutch cable been adjusted twice. So I am going to try to upgrade to the 2011 clutch and make hydraulic.

  23. #51
    Member KL9's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by edwilk55 View Post
    It's was in any gear and yes, it fixed it, buuuuuut... I didn't need the upgrade to fix the slipping. I found I installed the inner plate 10 backwards when I did the pin mod last year, so while it worked for a season, it ate up two plates causing my slipping.

    I know this is an old post for you, but I have a question about the clutch slipping issues. I had my clutch replaced by a dealer at around 22k and since that time my bike will not go any faster than 100 mph and I'm in 5th gear on the highway. Is this an example of the clutch slipping? I have taken it back a couple of times only to be told, they can't find any problem yet there is one, because the bike should not tap out at 100mph.

  24. #52
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KL9 View Post
    I know this is an old post for you, but I have a question about the clutch slipping issues. I had my clutch replaced by a dealer at around 22k and since that time my bike will not go any faster than 100 mph and I'm in 5th gear on the highway. Is this an example of the clutch slipping? I have taken it back a couple of times only to be told, they can't find any problem yet there is one, because the bike should not tap out at 100mph.
    Are the rpms still climbing but not the speed?

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  25. #53
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    Quote Originally Posted by thevili View Post
    I have not done this myself, but will be soon . In the Suzuki Service Manual it is described like this:

    • Loosen the lock nut and screw in the release screw to feel resistance.
    • From that position, turn out the release screw 1 full turn and tighten the lock nut securely by holding the release screw.

    If you don't have 'Service Manual' download it here:

    http://www.mediafire.com/file/m2zniy...ice+manual.pdf

    You can double check the procedure on page 163, (paragraph 3-111)

    PS.

    One needs to replace the old guts with "ALL" these new ones:
    https://www.m109riders.com/forums/sho...=1#post3737250

    and the 'Push Pin' adjustment is here:

    post img

    Thevili.....that is only for when you change out your clutch plates right?

  26. #54
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sssportsmfg View Post
    Thevili.....that is only for when you change out your clutch plates right?
    I would recommemd it anytime you have the clutch cover off. You are basically readjusting the clutch from scratch. Adjust push pin, then lower section of clutch cable then at the lever.

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  27. #55
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by sssportsmfg View Post
    Thevili.....that is only for when you change out your clutch plates right?
    Just like 'M109Dreamer' said. In any way, one takes off the clutch cover

    usually for a reason, like clutch is NFG - Not Functioning Good, therefore

    IMHO proper adjustment from push pin and up is necessary before one

    proceeds in further troubleshooting.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  28. #56
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    Did this to Bikergranny's last year. 7k miles of the best clutch setup she has ever had. She has Rhumatoid Arthritis and she has been having hand issues with the older setup. Since changing she has simply loved it and I wish I had done it earlier for her.

  29. #57
    Very Active Member kshackelford's Avatar
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    I have a question about my m109r. I installed a Revo clutch. Did the push pin mod. But the bike is starting to pull with the clutch in again. Is it worth upgrading to hydraulic clutch.

  30. #58
    Very Active Member thevili's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kshackelford View Post
    I have a question about my m109r. I installed a Revo clutch. Did the push pin mod. But the bike is starting to pull with the clutch in again. Is it worth upgrading to hydraulic clutch.
    IMHO your problem is n clutch adjustment,

    starting with the push pin, and then the cable.
    M109R 2011 Black, 2" lowering bones, air horn, flash to pass garage door opener, Brakeaway Cruise Control, V-stream windshield, Back Off Brake hold, OEM engine guards, Cobra One Piece rear luggage carrier, Cobra Tri Pro 2 in 1 Black exhaust, Cobra FI 2000 AT fuel processor.

  31. #59
    Very Active Member kshackelford's Avatar
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    At first was great, longer I rode worse it got again

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  32. #60
    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kshackelford View Post
    At first was great, longer I rode worse it got again

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    If you know you adjusted the push pin then look at the free play at the bottom of the clutch cable arm. If there isnt enough slack at the bottom the clutch will remain engaged.

    When I did my clutch had the same prob.

    Disconnect the cable at the lever and adjust the slack according to the book. Then hook the cable at the lever and adjust for the slack there.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

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