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Upgrade your Clutch System

47K views 81 replies 28 participants last post by  Zoom 
#1 ·
We can referred the 06-09 M109 as the first generation 109, and the 10-on as the second. What's difference between the two gens is not only in the redesigned tachometer but most importantly, the clutch system. We have learned that when entering first gear the impact of gears collision deteriorate significantly with the 10-on models. The inconvenience of shifting from first to second gear on the 06-09 models has been improved. The root of the problem lies on the five clutch plates in the old gens that when in motion, the friction between the plates are not enough without the bigger kg/m clutch spring, which is also the reason why we have to pull pretty hard when reaching the clutch lever. What's worse is that this clutch spring will experience elastic fatigue after consistent usage for two years. The second gens clutch system altered into six clutch plates to increase its friction and lower the kg/m of the spring. The result is easier and more comfortable when reaching the lever and longer lifespan for the clutch spring as well. Revo-cycles has successfully help many of our riders to upgrade their 06-09 models' clutch system into 10-on's.:doorag:

Wheel Automotive tire Rim Bicycle part Composite material

2012 on the left, 2008 on the right

Automotive tire Wheel Bicycle part Rim Tire

Although the OEM part number is different, both of them shares the same sizes.
Light Product Composite material Tableware Rectangle


2012 has become lighter
Tire Wheel Automotive tire Tread Rim

The clutch pressure disk on the outside is the same, so all you need to do is change the clutch plates, clutch driven plate and springs to finish the upgrade.
Tire Gas Wheel Audio equipment Automotive tire

2012 on the left, with softer handling that is more comfortable for longer ride.


 
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#69 · (Edited)
OK, so I just completed converting my 2007 with 24000k from the stock clutch to a 2011 system.
Let me start off by saying that I haven't been tinkering with engines or clutches for some years but I am some what mechanically inclined, so this was a deep dive for me into dark side.
The total job time from beginning to end took 4 or 5 hours (and 3 or 4 days of research in between... I'll explain that in the post)
I was motivated to do this by the really hard bang clunk first/second shift and the occasional clutch grab shutter, and this bike was new to me last year. So it's previous history is unknown if the driver rode the clutch or how much abuse had been put on it.
I watched 3 or 4 you/tube videos and allot of M109Riders Forum posts on it. Let me get to it...

After taking everything apart down to removing the Primary Drive Gear assembly, everything was fairly straight forward to remove if you followed the manual.
When I got it all apart and cleaned up, All the parts looked to be in good condition. I got out my digital caliper and measured the Drive Plate thickness's. One site says measure the total plate from outside of the fibre pad on both sides at the same time. Another site said to measure only on side of the fibre plate at a time The first method specs to the very minimum or below on some plates. The second method... they ALL failed, so given that the second sites procedure was bunk.
I then measured the Driven plates and they where all at minimum's but still in spec.
So what do I order as I'm not rich and on a pension. I searched the web again and couldn't really find help to decide. Everything from replace everything including the tub and clutch pin. That's not going to happen because that would be a waste of money if I didn't need parts that are fine. Now do I replace just the Drive plates and not the Driven plates?...
I couldn't find a site that clearly explained to a layman what to buy or what to replace. Some had this and not that, some said you can use that part number but not this part number. Some said No you should only replace with 2007 parts.
The pricing was ALL OVER THE PLACE, from $200 to $800 (Canadian).
It was getting very frustrating and confusing to say the least (this is where I was wondering if I should of taken this job on)
I gave up the On Line Web search and decided to call my local Suzuki dealer Valley Motor sports in West Kelowna and pay the mechanic to look at my parts and tell what I needed. I called the the parts guy and posed the question, What I got after I told him I wanted to change parts from a 2007 to a 2011 I got a Ok.... (insert long pause) sure. He than asked what my budget was and I said $100 (insert another pause) hello are you still there???
Just load all the parts into a box and bring them to me and I will have my mechanic look at the parts and let you know what you need because some times the Driven plates can be used again.
At the counter the "guy" took my parts to the pro and came back a few minutes later and gave me his recommendation.
Changing up 2011 parts is a good mod, now the bad part.
You will need all new Drive plates and the Driven plates have burn spots or hot spots on them, so all new Driven plates too. He said you could use them but when it gets hot the Driven plates will start to grab because they will warp at the hot spots even tho they are still in spec. Everything else is fine.
So I had a professionals opinion and Valley didn't charge for the advice. NICE of them:)
So that decided who I would buy my parts from.
The parts guy had a look at his screen and hummed and hawed... tic tok tic tok, you need this and this and that and that.
Clutch Drive In Plates, 6 21441-22H00
Clutch Driven Plate 5 21451-22H00
Clutch Driven end Plate 2 21451-48G10
Spring Clutch 6 21413-35F10
1 litre oil
TOTAL $494.11
Ok so maybe I could of googled the parts and found them somewhere on line and shaved a 100 or so bucks off of off shore unknown quality parts but you can't put a price on a pro's recommendation and genuine Suzuki parts when you don't know what the hell your doing. So I gladly opened up my wallet and let the Moths out. Parts took a week and a bit , that gave me time to explain to my wife why the Visa card took a hit... that was more painful than the parts price.

Put everything back together in reverse and adjusted the Clutch Push Piece after I removed the clutch cable from the clutch handle like the YouTube video said. This is where the questions started.
I adjusted the Piece ( turn screw in till the thrust washer contacted Clutch Pressure Disk) then back off 3/4 turn and lock down. Done easy to do. Makes sense do don't want the clutch push piece bearing always turning when the clutch isn't in gauged. I then spent the next 1/2 hour trying to hook back up the clutch cable to the handle... and yes the cable adjuster was all the way in. It was just sooo tight.
After that the Push Piece bearing was firmly in contact with the Pressure Disk and that didn't make sense. so I loosened it off another 1/2 to 3/4 turn. Everything seemed good till I had to adjust the clutch handle. I had to adjust the cable adjuster 4 or 5 turns to get the clutch to free wheel when pulled and that didn't seem right.
Finished off the reassembly and test drove. MUCH easier first/second shift smooth... no chatter or grabbing and pulling on the clutch handle was much easier, but the Push Piece adjustment thing still bugs me. If all the plates are new and given all back to like new condition, then why did I have to readjust the Push Piece and adjust the cable adjuster thingy 4 or 5 turns out.
Does this mean I will have to go back in at some point and readjust the Clutch Push Piece to the turn in and then out 3/4 turn and have the bearing always in contact with the pressure plate because that just doesn't sound right.
Any thoughts from somebody that has had the same thoughts.
Wouldn't the little bearing ware out faster always being in contact with the pressure plate
 
#77 ·
The pin adjustment is your main initial adjustment. I always do this on new clutch jobs. However, I always loosen the clutch cable up top, and remove the one 10mm bolt that holds the bracket on at the bottom for the clutch cable. At the end of the day, you do not want any pressure on the clutch arm before doing the pin adjustment. Once done, I put back on the lower bracket. Keeping the top completely turned in, I make 80-90% of my adjustment at the bottom. I pull down on the bottom of the clutch cable and spin the nuts down and leave them loose. I reach up to see the tension up top and get it close. I then tighten the bottom nuts, and then finish up top to fine tune. Hope this helps.
 
#72 ·
I reused my clutch cover gasket. When I took my cover off the gasket came off clean and in great shape, so I just cleaned the 2 surfaces and gasket with brake clean and used a good gasket sealer.
And yes that was a complete list of everything I needed to do the complete clutch job.
 
#82 ·
I shift into 2nd as soon as the bike gets rolling, or take off in 2nd. No clunk that way and the bike has plenty of power to pull it in 2nd from low rpm. Mine is finicky about 2nd, either I have to shift it at low rpms or at very high rpms, and at high rpms you have to jam it in gear fast. In between high and low it just doesn't shift very smoothly.

Clutch slippage is when you give it throttle and the engine speeds up but the bike either doesn't gain speed, or gain speed in relation to the engine revs.

Welcome to the forum, and that's quite a collection you have.
 
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