How to make a Baffle for HK Side Burner and Velocity Pro Road Burner
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Thread: How to make a Baffle for HK Side Burner and Velocity Pro Road Burner

  1. #1
    Very Active Member gottattooz's Avatar
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    Default How to make a Baffle for HK Side Burner and Velocity Pro Road Burner

    I bought the SmartPartz Baffle, and it fell out after one ride. Instead of spending another $60 for one, I make one for less than $15.00.



    I bought a 4 inch Galvanized pipe stand. The base measures 3 7/8 inches in Diameter. It barely fits in there.



    Then there's a 1 inch x 4 inch section of pipe. I drilled 12 holes in the center of the pipe.



    The fitting at the end is 1 inch to 1 1/4 inch pipe reducer. The widest part is 2 1/4 inches and centers itself in the middle of the exhaust pipe. For the Side Burner, you must grind away the outer lips of the reducer so the whole assembly will make it around the curve at the end of the exhaust. It's a tight fit, but it works.



    I tightened everything as tight as I could with a bench vise and a pipe wrench, then test fit it in the exhaust. I pulled it back out to make sure it was easily removeable.

    Then I clocked the mount holes at 3, 6, 9 and 12 so I could get to at least 3 of them using self-tapping screws and an air ratchet. I chocked the rear wheel so I could use sufficient force to start the screws.



    It's just as quiet as the Smartpartz baffle was, which I liked.
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    Last edited by gottattooz; 05-02-2015 at 01:10 PM.

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    Very Active Member stepink104's Avatar
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    How does that sound Josh
    Kenny
    THE UGLY TRUTH...................


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    Very Active Member gottattooz's Avatar
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    At idle, it's a little louder than the stock pipes debaffled. When you get on it, it's all Side Burner. I think it takes away some of the abrasiveness that most people shy away from. Think open headers vs. a FlowMaster exhaust.

    -Josh

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    Very Active Member avago's Avatar
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    Default How to make a Baffle for HK Side Burner and Velocity Pro Road Burner

    Quote Originally Posted by gottattooz View Post
    At idle, it's a little louder than the stock pipes debaffled. When you get on it, it's all Side Burner. I think it takes away some of the abrasiveness that most people shy away from. Think open headers vs. a FlowMaster exhaust.

    -Josh
    Great idea. Nice easy way to make it with no tools.
    You are spot on about the change in sound. Takes the edge of the loudness without going really quiet.
    Here's what I have made for my velocity pro





    Got some better tools now so making nicer new ones for me and a mate who has swepts.


    Sent from my portable microwave emitter
    Last edited by avago; 05-06-2015 at 02:07 PM.
    A man would be more interested in a womans mind if it bounced gently as she walked.

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    Very Active Member hypermyke's Avatar
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    With SmartPartz there is also a flat piece of steel halving the opening down the tube... This has an added effect on sound control also... Just in case anyone tries the above and wishes to wonder why there is a difference...

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    Very Active Member Stag Fury's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by avago View Post
    Great idea. Nice easy way to make it with no tools.
    You are spot on about the change in sound. Takes the edge of the loudness without going really quiet.
    Here's what I have made for my velocity pro





    Got some better tools now so making nicer new ones for me and a mate who has swepts.


    Sent from my portable microwave emitter

    Nice job. Can you divulge a few details such as size of the baffle plate, what you fabbed it out of, diameter of pipe. And if you have time, the square root of pi.

    I done ran into my baby n found my ol blu jean I could tell they's mine from the oil n gasoline

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    Active Member BillF6531's Avatar
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    Can't help you with the design details on the baffle, however the answer to your math question is:

    http://www.wolframalpha.com/input/?i...i%29100+digits

    Bill in Calgary, Alberta, Canada
    2012 M109R Limited Edition (VZR1800ZL2), Rifle windshield & lowers, Viking leather-covered hard bags, Rostra electonic cruise control, +3" risers, +3" throttle & clutch cables, +3" front brake lines, LED driving lights, WOLO air horn, and a Woolich Racing ECU tuning package & wideband --- I think the bike is finally perfect!

  10. #8
    Very Active Member avago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stag Fury View Post
    Nice job. Can you divulge a few details such as size of the baffle plate, what you fabbed it out of, diameter of pipe. And if you have time, the square root of pi.
    Hi. End plate is 1.6mm mild steel.
    The outside diameter is about 127mm. Undo the two bolts holding in the end cap, pop it out and measure the end that goes on to the exhaust to get the exact size.
    The centre hole is 40mm. I used 1.6mm mild steel perforated pipe with outside diameter of 44mm. You just want the hole in the plate to be slightly smaller than the inside of the pipe so you have a nice end.
    Cut your tubing to 200mm long and weld to the plate.
    Depending on the gap between the end cap and the original baffle you may need nuts welded on as spacers like in my previous pics. Put lots of exhaust sealant around the end of the original baffle and press your new insert in against it. The end cap will hold it in place. Voila!
    You can use solid tubing instead of perforated and if you don't have a way to cut out the end plate, get a steel blade for your jigsaw and go for it. You can tidy the edge on a grinder afterwards.
    Should look something like this when in bike.

    I did a cad drawing to get them laser cut but the robbers wanted $85 for one and $100 for 10.
    Good luck!



    Sent from my portable microwave emitter
    A man would be more interested in a womans mind if it bounced gently as she walked.

  11. #9
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by avago View Post
    You can use solid tubing instead of perforated and if you don't have a way to cut out the end plate, get a steel blade for your jigsaw and go for it. You can tidy the edge on a grinder afterwards.
    Another trick if you have a hand drill would be to "chain drill" a bunch of holes around the perimeter of the outline. You can overlap the edges so the drill essentially cuts the piece out or leave a little material between holes and cut apart with a hacksaw and then file to clean up the left over semicircle ridges. This method works well on thick and thin materials and when you have bare minimum tooling it could really help you out.

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