F1 Fuel Injector Light
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Thread: F1 Fuel Injector Light

  1. #1
    Active Member Audsey's Avatar
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    Default F1 Fuel Injector Light

    Hello all---This past August I rode from Sacramento, CA to Sturgis. Bike ran great. Traveled along Interstate 80 at 90 MPH as if I was in my living room. Took 2 1/2 days to get to Sturgis. After 1 day in Sturgis we were riding by Crazy Horse and I had a light come on by the F1 on my dash. Took the bike to a dealer the next day and nothing was sowing up on diagnostics. Bike continued to run great with no apparent problems. Headed home through Yellowstone with the light coming off and on periodically. Has happened 1 time since I've been home. Does anyone know what could be going on? Bike has always run great and except for the light being on, you would not have felt anything. Bike is all stock.

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    Very Active Member some 9's Avatar
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    Look up the code
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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Radio Active Member Zoom's Avatar
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    Keep in mind the light actually has to be on to check the code. Once you turn the bike off you can't retrieve the code, which is probably why the dealer couldn't find it.

    The easiest way for me to check it is to have the light on with the bike running, then hit the kill switch. Leave the key switch on, and check the code.






  7. #5
    Active Member Audsey's Avatar
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    Dumb question---where does the code show up at?

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    Radio Active Member Zoom's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audsey View Post
    Dumb question---where does the code show up at?
    It shows up in the odometer box.






  9. #7
    Active Member HALFWAY's Avatar
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    Have you install anything on your bike, that consumes electrical power with the bike motor stopped but with the key turned on?....

    When I installed my audio system, I noticed that, if the system was on (not playing music or working, but only connected in stand by mode), when I started the bike, the FI light turns on... but when I installed a kill switch (no electrical power to the audio system, till I turned on the switch), and start the bike with this audio system kill switch turned off, the FI light, doesn't appear. I suppose this is becouse the bike, at the moment to turn on the key, does an autotest, and if the ICU detects there is an electrical consumption that means there is not enough power (out of the programmed limits of the ICU), to serve the bike, it shows the FI light on when you will star the bike.

    It happens too, when I try to star the bike with the auxiliary ligths turned on.

    Anyway when ALL elements installed on the bike after I boughted it, are unconnected (means NO electrical power sustracted to the electrical system in no quantity) the FI light remains turned off.

    Good rides wherever you where.
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    Active Member Audsey's Avatar
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    Thanks to all for your help. I have not installed anything new on bike that would cause the F1 light problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Audsey View Post
    Thanks to all for your help. I have not installed anything new on bike that would cause the F1 light problem.

    When the light comes on, turn your bike off with the kill switch only thatís on the right handle grip. The code should appear on the odometer. Write that code down and then look it up. That will get you closer to the actual problem. I do know the C109R is prone to having exhaust servo failures that will cause an FI light to glow. The servo motor itself is prone to malfunction. If this proves to be the problem, there is a simple fix. Install a Servo Buddy to completely bypass the system. Itís a simple module thatís about the side of a match book that plugs right in line with your factory wiring harness. You just unplug the exhaust servo motor and plug the Servo Buddy inline to bypass the factory servo valve. The computer will think everything is fine and the light will go out and stay out.
    2008 Suzuki C109R (sat on showroom for 3 yrs)
    Factory Pro Evo shift improver
    Power Commander III w/Exhaust Servo System REMOVED with Servo Buddy
    Exhaust baffle plate drilled modification (eight 1/2 inch holes)
    Gman Timing Retard Eliminator (TRE) Cobra FATTY Highway Bar

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    Very Active Member Gold5th's Avatar
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    When my exhaust servo was being stupid I only got the FI light when it was running. To check the code I had to plug in the "tool" when the bike was running.. key off, key on, using the kill switch.. didn't show a code... had to be running.. then I got the code.

    I disconnected the server cables to the valve.. not the electrical wires, turned the key on.. let the servo cycle.. key off... did that about 3 times, reconnected the cables, key on.. fired it up... no more FI light..

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gold5th View Post
    When my exhaust servo was being stupid I only got the FI light when it was running. To check the code I had to plug in the "tool" when the bike was running.. key off, key on, using the kill switch.. didn't show a code... had to be running.. then I got the code.

    I disconnected the server cables to the valve.. not the electrical wires, turned the key on.. let the servo cycle.. key off... did that about 3 times, reconnected the cables, key on.. fired it up... no more FI light..

    Yeah, the servo motor itself malfunctioned on your bike or it was an issue with the mechanical valve itself. When something like that happens, an FI code is triggered and the light fires up. There are several different ways to fix/rig it for the light to go off. The mechanical butterfly valve for the exhaust will revert to a default open position if unplugged from the wiring harness, or, in your case, the mechanical linkage lines are disconnected. Our bikes think in binary code. Right now, your bike thinks all is well because the servo motor is disconnected from the butterfly valve, but the bike doesnít know it. The system is continuing to do its thing and is none the wiser. Those idiotic butterfly valves tend to stick and that alone will trigger an FI light. Iím pretty sure that was your case. You disconnecting the cables and allowing the servo motor to cycle w/o being connected to the butterfly valve cleared the trouble code.

    Your fix was temporary though. Those valves and the servo motor itself are prone to failure. The permanent fix is to completely remove that bulky servo motor, cables, and the mounting hardware. Then simply plug, inline, an exhaust servo eliminator module and the problem is fixed for the life of the bike. There are several brands of servo eliminator modules out there ranging from $20-60. The servo eliminator module plugs in line with the factory wiring harness and completely bypasses the system. The bike thinks all is well and will never throw a code/light for that problem. Your butterfly valve will always remain 100% open, as it should be.
    2008 Suzuki C109R (sat on showroom for 3 yrs)
    Factory Pro Evo shift improver
    Power Commander III w/Exhaust Servo System REMOVED with Servo Buddy
    Exhaust baffle plate drilled modification (eight 1/2 inch holes)
    Gman Timing Retard Eliminator (TRE) Cobra FATTY Highway Bar

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    Very Active Member Gold5th's Avatar
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    Well I did my "fix" over 2 years ago. I may buy a servo buddy just to have one on hand should I need it but the servo and butterfly valve serve a purpose, to produce more low end power, the valve opens up when the RPM are high to allow more flow. Since I tow a trailer behind my C, low end power is a good thing.

    Anyhow the point of my post was that I couldn't get my C to display the code unless I used the tool while the motor was running.
    Last edited by Gold5th; 01-09-2015 at 02:45 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gold5th View Post
    Well I did my "fix" over 2 years ago. I may buy a servo buddy just to have one on hand should I need it but the servo and butterfly valve serve a purpose, to produce more low end power, the valve opens up when the RPM are high to allow more flow. Since I tow a trailer behind my C, low end power is a good thing.

    Anyhow the point of my post was that I couldn't get my C to display the code unless I used the tool while the motor was running.
    The entire exhaust servo system is designed for two purposes, noise and emission regulation. The whole low end power claim is a marketing ploy. It's on there to satisfy regulations in place in the many countries that Suzuki exports to.

    The purpose of this system according to the motorcycle manufacturersí marketing departments is to create back-pressure at lower RPMís to increase torque. Unfortunately, this probably isnít the real reason; the true purpose of the exup valves is to meet noise and emissions regulations. The exhaust valves are partially closed at idle and low rpm to reduce noise, and closed again at the upper RPMs to meet peak noise and emissions regulations. The proof of this has been shown on the dyno where removing the valves and retuning the engine creates a flatter better torque curve. Additionally, in the USA, most bikes close the valve again at the upper RPM range, but in Europe they do not (different regulations) and the European bikes typically create a few more HP on the top end as a result.
    2008 Suzuki C109R (sat on showroom for 3 yrs)
    Factory Pro Evo shift improver
    Power Commander III w/Exhaust Servo System REMOVED with Servo Buddy
    Exhaust baffle plate drilled modification (eight 1/2 inch holes)
    Gman Timing Retard Eliminator (TRE) Cobra FATTY Highway Bar

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    Very Active Member Gold5th's Avatar
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    Odd.. I've manually held the butterfly open at idle and throttle blips.. I couldn't tell any noise difference between that and letting it do it's own thing.

    I do know from past experience that more back pressure(to a point) = more lower end oomph well in 1.3-2L 4cyl cars. Or rather going with an exhaust that was too big, or flowed too much reduced power.

    With exhaust you want to find that sweet spot with enough back pressure for low end grunt, yet enough flow for scavenging at higher rpm. Which is what the butterfly valve was in there to help with.. at least that's what I had read.

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    Active Member Audsey's Avatar
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    As you have said, I too am not showing any code on my bike. F1 light came on again last week-end. No code showed up.

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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audsey View Post
    As you have said, I too am not showing any code on my bike. F1 light came on again last week-end. No code showed up.
    Huh, you didnt even get the code "C00"?

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    [QUOTE=Gold5th;2925626]Odd.. I've manually held the butterfly open at idle and throttle blips.. I couldn't tell any noise difference between that and letting it do it's own thing.

    I do know from past experience that more back pressure(to a point) = more lower end oomph well in 1.3-2L 4cyl cars. Or rather going with an exhaust that was too big, or flowed too much reduced power.

    With exhaust you want to find that sweet spot with enough back pressure for low end grunt, yet enough flow for scavenging at higher rpm. Which is what the butterfly valve was in there to help with.. at least that's what I had read.[/QUO


    I know just what youíre saying. Our bikes at idle in neutral and through throttle blips wonít demonstrate low end or high end power/torque. Just out of curiosity I put my C109 on a dyno both with and without the exhaust servo eliminator. The stock setup produced less power through the curve than with the bike having the system eliminated with the exhaust servo eliminator installed. A friend of mine owns a shop with a dyno. One of the first mods sport bike owners do is get rid of that system. The marketing department of Suzuki claims their servo valve does what it does to help the bike. The engineering and performance people of Suzuki make no such claim. I donít blame Suzuki at all for it. Theyíre just manufacturing bikes that comply with the countries they export to. However, I donít like a marketing department trying to disguise a component as being a performance item when itís really just an emission/noise control system. I figured since I installed a Power Commander, timing retard eliminator, and a shift improver kit, it would be a good thing to complement those performance upgrades by removing the restrictive and failure-prone servo system. Thatís one of the nice things about motorcycles; they can be customized, modified, and made better according to the wishes of the owner. Itís even better when the dyno shows real results afterwards.
    2008 Suzuki C109R (sat on showroom for 3 yrs)
    Factory Pro Evo shift improver
    Power Commander III w/Exhaust Servo System REMOVED with Servo Buddy
    Exhaust baffle plate drilled modification (eight 1/2 inch holes)
    Gman Timing Retard Eliminator (TRE) Cobra FATTY Highway Bar

  20. #18
    Active Member Audsey's Avatar
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    No, I don't even get the COO code.

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    Very Active Member geofftl1000r's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Audsey View Post
    No, I don't even get the COO code.
    You have to have the little LCD display in diagnostic mode to see the C00 code (so no mileage display). I use a simple paperclip on my other bike when I had issues.
    You can search on ebay for Suzuki diagnostic switch. Just leave it is diagnostic mode while you are riding around until you see the fault code show up.

    LINKY

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    Default F1 light

    Have 2013 109R ... has anyone experienced a 'periodic' F1 light/odometer readout (after kill switch, ignition still ON) then it disappears upon restart and stays OFF..

  23. #21
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Maxrpm View Post
    Have 2013 109R ... has anyone experienced a 'periodic' F1 light/odometer readout (after kill switch, ignition still ON) then it disappears upon restart and stays OFF..
    If the FI light is coming on while the bike is running and then clears itself once the ignition is turned off then Yes...... To pull the code you need to keep the ignition on (Do Not Turn Off before inserting the paperclip in order to pull the fault code.) If this is happening during the "Start-Up" cycle where the FI light is displayed fot a few seconds and then goes out? This is the normal prestart system check the bike goes through each time it is started.

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    An old post but on a popular topic so I will also add - although on an an "M" not a "C" I was once travelling in some very rural countryside and after gassing up, the FI light came on while riding, shortly after. I panicked a bit and pulled over immediately, as the bike was still quite new at the time and I was many many hours from home (or a paperclip). After a couple starts and that the bike seemed to be running perfectly fine, I just let it be and it magically went away.

    I blamed "bad" rural gas and have never seen it come on again since.

    My 2c FWIW...


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    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    I would agree on bad gas. But another question would be is your bike maybe from California? That is the only place in North America that uses O2 sensors. I had a Porsche that had a bad 02 sensor once and caused issues

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    Very Active Member FlyingCircus's Avatar
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    Also when you start it, do you wait for it to cycle through til middle 2 lights go out until starting it?

  27. #25
    Member Maxrpm's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by FlyingCircus View Post
    Also when you start it, do you wait for it to cycle through til middle 2 lights go out until starting it?
    Not sure that I do, but I will and see if anything is different. It's only happened once in past couple weeks (I ride a least every other day). I used kill switch, restart, light went off. I'm not the original owner, but believe it was initially sold in Nevada.
    I'm getting the feeling it's an electronic glitch that doesn't warrant serious concern (until it does) and won't worry until it stops 'going off' upon restart.
    Thanks all for the comments.

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