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Thread: new pads

  1. #1
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    Default new pads

    i changed my brake pads yesterday at 22000 the stock ones were toast
    i went with the ebc HH sintered pads got them off ebay total 110
    fairly easy to do and feels better than new
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  3. #2
    Very Active Member smg3d's Avatar
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    And you will notice that your brake area will be much cleaner now (the original produced a lot of dust).

    And they will last at least twice longer than the stock ones (over 40,000 km, and the front EBC-HH likely still have 10,000 km)

    (For the rear... still with the original pads after 61,000 km... likely still good for 10-15,000 km)

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  4. #3
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    ohh the brake dust on the stock pads are terrible
    cant keep nothin clean
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  6. #4
    Very Active Member avago's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by big jeff View Post
    ohh the brake dust on the stock pads are terrible
    cant keep nothin clean
    Yeah all the dust started when they stopped asbestos being allowed in brake pads and they put some other rubbish in them. Don't last as long either.


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  7. #5
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    I don't care for the funny sounding/feeling noise/grind they make when applying the brakes other then that they were much better the stock and much less mess to clean off of your wheels!

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    Quote Originally Posted by big jeff View Post
    i changed my brake pads yesterday at 22000 the stock ones were toast
    i went with the ebc HH sintered pads got them off ebay total 110
    fairly easy to do and feels better than new
    EBC makes good brake pads. I use them on all my bikes. The HH sintered pads are harder than the stock organic type OE pads and are harder on brake rotors. The can sometimes chew up a set of rotors. I once installed a set of HH sintered pads to a heavy metric cruiser I once owned. I had to replace the front rotor and go back to the softer standard pads. The HH sintered pads damaged the brake rotor about three thousand miles after I installed them.
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    I changed my pads last year as the front were totally toast, the new ones didn't even fit (don't recall what brand I put on). I had to fight to get the calipers back on.. then I think I warped the rotors :(

  10. #8
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    Default New Front Brake Pads

    I have just put new pads on my C109RT. At best, they make a hissing sound while moving or braking. At worst, they heat the rotors up so much that the bike can hardly move even when the brakes are not engaged. I have cleaned the pads and rotors several times with brake fluid and reduced the amount of fluid in the master cylinder. Still, no change. I need help please. Cheers Patrick

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    Quote Originally Posted by Pats Boulevard View Post
    I have just put new pads on my C109RT. At best, they make a hissing sound while moving or braking. At worst, they heat the rotors up so much that the bike can hardly move even when the brakes are not engaged. I have cleaned the pads and rotors several times with brake fluid and reduced the amount of fluid in the master cylinder. Still, no change. I need help please. Cheers Patrick

    Please tell me that you are using brake cleaner, not brake fluid to clean them. Brake fluid is mineral or silicone based, depending on which type you use, and neither is meant to be a cleaner. In fact, brake fluid will make brakes grab. If you've actually cleaned them with it, get a can of brake cleaner and try cleaning them off. You may have to replace them depending on how deep the fluid has penetrated the pads. The rotors aren't a problem once they get cleaned.

    If that doesn't work, you may need to bleed them. Air in the system expands when it gets heated and can shove the pads out enough to apply the brakes.

    The hissing at low speed is normal. I use the HH pads and they sound like you are running through sand.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Board Support-1 View Post
    Please tell me that you are using brake cleaner, not brake fluid to clean them. Brake fluid is mineral or silicone based, depending on which type you use, and neither is meant to be a cleaner. In fact, brake fluid will make brakes grab. If you've actually cleaned them with it, get a can of brake cleaner and try cleaning them off. You may have to replace them depending on how deep the fluid has penetrated the pads. The rotors aren't a problem once they get cleaned.

    If that doesn't work, you may need to bleed them. Air in the system expands when it gets heated and can shove the pads out enough to apply the brakes.

    The hissing at low speed is normal. I use the HH pads and they sound like you are running through sand.
    My mistake. I used brake cleaner. I will try the leading edge bevel and hacksaw cut. I have bled the system so I am at the last option. I am not so concerned about the pads hissing, it's the brakes stopping the bike when they have not been engaged by me.

  13. #11
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    It may be possible that one of the piston seals either broke or is out of place or there may be some gunk/dirt buildup between the piston cup and the caliper wall. If this is the case it may be causing the piston to hang up which is causing the pads to continually rub/ride the rotor which is causing the fluid to overheat which is causing it to expand thus causing your problem with the brake grabbing without you engaging them. Your best bet will be to remove the pads then pull the pistons to clean and check that your seals are undamaged and seated properly.

    I have a few questions. Did you remove the master cyclinder cover before pushing the pistons back into the caliper? Did you push the pistons completely back into the caliper?
    Last edited by Latinrascal; 07-30-2015 at 01:02 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    It may be possible that one of the piston seals either broke or is out of place or there may be some gunk/dirt buildup between the piston cup and the caliper wall. If this is the case it may be causing the piston to hang up which is causing the pads to continually rub/ride the rotor which is causing the fluid to overheat which is causing it to expand thus causing your problem with the brake grabbing without you engaging them. Your best bet will be to remove the pads then pull the pistons to clean and check that your seals are undamaged and seated properly.

    I have a few questions. Did you remove the master cyclinder cover before pushing the pistons back into the caliper? Did you push the pistons completely back into the caliper?
    I'm in the same boat. I push the Pistons completely back to make room and bleed the brake fluid out to get the air out. Then put new DOT4 in the master cylinder. I kept on pumping the brake lever to get the fluid going and still haven't felt the tight on the lever/brakes. Help?

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    I apologize in advance if this sounds anything less then helpful . First since your sign pic is of a m109 not the c109 that has the linked brakes . When you " bleed the line " did you have the bleeder valve open ? With a hose of some sort going into a container to capture the fluid and prevent air from going back into the line ?
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  16. #14
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    No. My stock pads made all that brake dust, which causes caliper pistons to hang up. Which causes pads to chew up rotors. Brake cleaner and a small brush around the piston area.
    I followed the manual for flushing front and rear and linked. It takes awhile. I also used a hose and small cup. Mostly so not to get ANY brake fluid anywhere. Corrosive ****.
    Fyi I mostly use rear brakes. 28000mi rotor looks great. The ebc hh pads are awesome. Cleaner thicker no hang ups.

  17. #15
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    Big jeff , I was in refrence to the comment from deafm109 . That's if you were responding back from my comment . I f so I apologize, I need to be better about hitting the quote button rather then the respond one ( when needed )
    2008 c109rt . wolo air horn, gman tre, gman bully ,kuryakyn cruiser pegs, tsukayu jumbo strong bags ,tsukayu 6x9 bat wing , LED head light, driver backrest, k&n air filters, m109 tach, and electric cruise control ahhh !

  18. #16
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    I was agreeing with you

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