Rostra Electronic Cruise Control install
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Thread: Rostra Electronic Cruise Control install

  1. #1
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    Default Rostra Electronic Cruise Control install

    ****DISCLAIMER***THIS INSTALL COULD CAUSE INJURY OR DEATH***PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK***I AM NOT LIABLE FOR YOUR INSTALL****
    Thought I would throw that in there since it is pasted all over the product and the guy's site selling the kit. Murphskits.com. They do not suggest installing this on a motorcycle.

    So I wanted real cruise control on my bike just like a car on my 2011 M109R.

    I saw the Audiovox version with vacuum, but there is an alternative. Rostra makes a universal cruise control that holds the speed better and runs off your VSS (vehicle speed sensor)

    There was enough info on the web to attempt this and Rostra has tech support. Rostra will not advise you when it is a motorcycle, but I was able to call a couple times and ask generic questions.

    I spent a lot of time trying to figure out where to mount this monster box. The logical place is under the battery box in the space between the rear cylinder and the battery. I am making a new battery box that will have more storage so I am putting mine immediately behind the rear cylinder. I had to move some relays, but it will fit in there perfectly.

    These units have a brain and a throttle cable. The wiring was the daunting task here and I wanted to make sure to have that all worked out before I started to cut the wires down and then needed more length.

    There is a diagnostic mode which will tell you that you have all the wires correctly installed and working. The only portion that I could not test was the engaged light on my control pad. You can buy one with or without.

    Here is the wiring in test mode and you can see the length that you will need to cut down.

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    Last edited by peregrine; 05-29-2013 at 10:14 AM.

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  3. #2
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    You will need to remove the tank, battery box and the air box for the this install.

    WIRING LIST..WHAT GOES WHERE

    On the Main Unit (Rostra P/N 250-1223) there are 10 wires coming out

    A. KEY=color at main unit - what it does - where you should connect it to
    1. Orange - enabled light on cruise switch- that goes to a 5 post relay #85 (there are 2 of these, 1 for brake, 1 for enabled light)
    2. Light Green - clutch switch - tap the black/yellow tracer wire in the headlight cowl
    3. Dark Blue - tach wire - delete this, I tried to hook it up and it fed a dirty signal to the Main Unit, so says Rostra tech support
    4. Dark Green - set/coast at cruise switch - simply connect to the green wire coming out of switch
    5. Gray - VSS signal - I followed the wires coming from the shaft drive cover and tapped the pink before it switched to white - tap that
    6. Brown - ignition wire - to switched power source, I used an auxillary fuseblock (Fuzeblock)
    7. Yellow - resume/accell - yellow at the cruise switch
    8. Black - ground
    9. Violet - brake ground - relay (for brake) #87A
    10. Red/Brown tracer - pos brake - brown at cruise switch

    On the Cruise Switch (Rostra P/N 250-3592) there are 9 wires

    1. Red - has a 4 amp fuse - fuseblock (previously mentioned)
    2. Brown - to Red w/ brown tracer to main
    3. Yellow - to yellow to main
    4. Green - to green to main
    5. Black - to ground
    6. White - fuseblock (previously mentioned)
    7. Gray - fuseblock (previously mentioned)
    8. Pink - enabled light feature - #87 at relay
    9. Blue - to ground

    So now the relay's. 5 post relay

    Brake
    1. #86 - ground
    2. #85 - White/Black tracer - this is the also on the brake light harness above the ECM. This is the wire that goes hot when the brake is applied.
    3. #87 - not used
    4. #87A - Violet from Main unit
    5. #30 - Ground

    Enabled light feature of Cruise Switch
    1. #86 - switched power - to brown wire at brake light (previously mentioned)
    2. #85 - Orange - from Main unit
    3. #87 - Pink - from Cruise Switch
    4. #87A - not used
    5. #30 - switched power - to brown wire at brake light (previously mentioned)

    Pic of the Cruise Switch


    Pic of the harness where I grabbed the clutch switch


    Closer pic of harness for clutch switch


    Pic of 1 of the 2 relays and the Rostra Main Unit


    Pic of the harness that goes to the brake and turn signals that I tapped for power and brake switch shut off


    Closer pic of brake light harness


    Pic of the wires that come off the shaft drive. I tapped the pink wire just before it switched to white ( thanks Hunts4Steve for showing us where the VSS signal originated)
    Last edited by peregrine; 05-29-2013 at 10:15 AM.

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    I am not an electrical guru by any means. I am just a guy who can read some directions and has the balls to try these kind of things.

    I have made this thread to make this simple for everyone after me.
    There are 8 stand alone connections, 3 wires to the fuseblock, and 3 wires to ground for a total of 14 connections.
    There are 3 wires you have to tap on the bike for connections and 1 wire to tap for power. The rest go to relays or the Cruise Switch.

    This is actually not that hard. The Main unit has a diagnostic mode which will test that you got the VSS signal right, the Brake switch right, the clutch (called the neutral switch) right, and that the functions of the Cruise Switch work.

    I slowly and methodically attached the wires one by one. The directions are pretty good and I made them better here by taking out any guess work with the list above.



    So the unit is quite large.




    So I mounted it between the frame rails behind the rear cylinder.

    I had to remove this bracket and modify it so I could relocate the relays taking up that space.


    Then I cut off the long portion of the mounting bracket since you will not need that.


    It all attaches like this to the unit


    Than you can install it and run the cable to the throttle body


    You will attach the cable to the throttle using this. The instructions have a lot of options. This one seemed to fit the best.



    Run it through the existing throttle cable like this



    I routed the cable up to here along the main harness



    I then looped it back and tapped and drilled the frame to mount the holder





    So why does this look like a light bulb pull chain? You need to add length to the cable or it will have too short of a pull and damage the CC



    A pic of it attached



    You can thread the cable so there is adjustment which you can see below. This came in handy since you only want 1/8" of slack or less or it will surge quite a bit when you set the CC

    Last edited by peregrine; 05-29-2013 at 09:51 AM.

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    Looks HUh! nice and neat. LOL. Lets us know how it works out.
    FOUNDER, HALO NATION ALLIANCE

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    Quote Originally Posted by HALO9 View Post
    Looks HUh! nice and neat. LOL. Lets us know how it works out.
    Ohhhh....you so funny!

    Thanks wise guy! I am working on it.

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    I sooooo want to do this too!!!
    If you were closer I would want to come help you.

    Any information, pictures, video would be welcome

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradSmith View Post
    I sooooo want to do this too!!!
    If you were closer I would want to come help you.

    Any information, pictures, video would be welcome
    A full install guide with pics coming soon!

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    if i am looking up the right unit the unit is about $210 and another about $50 for the controler so about 260 in parts , when you figure what a breakaway cost and its just holds the throtal in place it doesnt sound price wise to bad of a deal . waiting for full write up and pics along with the results
    2008 c109rt . wolo air horn, gman tre, gman bully ,kuryakyn cruiser pegs, tsukayu jumbo strong bags ,tsukayu 6x9 bat wing , LED head light, driver backrest, k&n air filters, m109 tach, and electric cruise control ahhh !

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    I like to see new ideas but ain't no way I would attempt to mess with that much wiring

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    Updated for those subscribed. Please check back often as I will edit the first main 3 posts as I complete this install

    I will most likely not update again till after the weekend.

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    I am following this with great interest as an electric cruise would nearly complete my cruiser bike ( yeah , like as if the mods were to ever stop) but do I understand correct that the switched power ( tail light, not brake ) gets split to 6 different wires ? ( both 86 relays , 30 on light switch relay , #6 & 7 on controller , and #6 on the main unit ?
    2008 c109rt . wolo air horn, gman tre, gman bully ,kuryakyn cruiser pegs, tsukayu jumbo strong bags ,tsukayu 6x9 bat wing , LED head light, driver backrest, k&n air filters, m109 tach, and electric cruise control ahhh !

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1r View Post
    I am following this with great interest as an electric cruise would nearly complete my cruiser bike ( yeah , like as if the mods were to ever stop) but do I understand correct that the switched power ( tail light, not brake ) gets split to 6 different wires ? ( both 86 relays , 30 on light switch relay , #6 & 7 on controller , and #6 on the main unit ?
    You will need a power source that is switched. I may look into a fuse block. Like I said I am not electrical guru. If someone with more experience can chime in. The relays just need a source to switch. The power to the controller is just for the LED lights. So there is not much of a draw there.

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    " could cause death or serious injuries" are we to assume something did mot go well on the test ?
    2008 c109rt . wolo air horn, gman tre, gman bully ,kuryakyn cruiser pegs, tsukayu jumbo strong bags ,tsukayu 6x9 bat wing , LED head light, driver backrest, k&n air filters, m109 tach, and electric cruise control ahhh !

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    So I updated the thread. I will have to get you guys the dip switch settings. On initial test it surged quite a bit and was a little unnerving. You set it at 70 mph and it would immediately pull hard to 75 mph. I made sure there was no more than 1/8" slack in the cable. I set the dip switch to 4 cylinder low, there is not a 2 cylinder option. I set the gain to extra low. I may move the gain back to low. It seems to slow surge now.

    It fluctuates maybe a mph or two. The dip switches may eliminate that. I drove up and down steep hills and it held pretty darn well. I did notice my speedo is way off. I used the GPS in my phone and noticed at 80 mph (bike) that I was only doing 73 mph (GPS).

    The accell and decell work well. The only issue I have is set and resume. It will pull away for a few mph and then settle back in. I am working that out, but the bike has been down for the whole season and it is time for me to ride.

    I still need to make a nice bracket for the CC switch.

    ****OH YEAH**** Do not use any circuits to power this unit. I fried the main wiring harness about 6" off the ignition switch and I had to get a used one off eBay and cut and paste.

    I installed a Fuzeblock auxiliary fuse block. It is great. It was like $88 shipped. It has a relay built in. I hooked pos, neg, and tapped switched power to activate the relay (I used the brown coming off the ignition switch). It has a ground block also.

    I ran my air horn into to and will also install power for my GPS to it as well. Heated grips may be in my future also.

    Any questions?

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    Quote Originally Posted by peregrine View Post
    So I updated the thread. I will have to get you guys the dip switch settings. On initial test it surged quite a bit and was a little unnerving. You set it at 70 mph and it would immediately pull hard to 75 mph. I made sure there was no more than 1/8" slack in the cable. I set the dip switch to 4 cylinder low, there is not a 2 cylinder option. I set the gain to extra low. I may move the gain back to low. It seems to slow surge now.

    It fluctuates maybe a mph or two. The dip switches may eliminate that. I drove up and down steep hills and it held pretty darn well. I did notice my speedo is way off. I used the GPS in my phone and noticed at 80 mph (bike) that I was only doing 73 mph (GPS).

    The accell and decell work well. The only issue I have is set and resume. It will pull away for a few mph and then settle back in. I am working that out, but the bike has been down for the whole season and it is time for me to ride.

    I still need to make a nice bracket for the CC switch.

    ****OH YEAH**** Do not use any circuits to power this unit. I fried the main wiring harness about 6" off the ignition switch and I had to get a used one off eBay and cut and paste.

    I installed a Fuzeblock auxiliary fuse block. It is great. It was like $88 shipped. It has a relay built in. I hooked pos, neg, and tapped switched power to activate the relay (I used the brown coming off the ignition switch). It has a ground block also.

    I ran my air horn into to and will also install power for my GPS to it as well. Heated grips may be in my future also.

    Any questions?
    Now that you have done it once, how long do you think it would take you having the valuable information that you have provided?
    Props to you for that !! Thx

    Brad

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    I could do it in less than 1 day. I spent an awful lot of time figuring things out and that melting of the harness set me back 2 weeks since I was just disgusted with it.

    Anyone who wants to come by....

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    Quote Originally Posted by peregrine View Post
    I could do it in less than 1 day. I spent an awful lot of time figuring things out and that melting of the harness set me back 2 weeks since I was just disgusted with it.

    Anyone who wants to come by....

    Be careful 1r and I might just take you up on it :)
    We are both very keen on trying this mod, I just hate having bike not in riding form :)

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    Holy hell man you are brave taking on a task like that. Props to you. Hope you get it all squared away.
    2012 Limited Edition M109R -- Corbin Seats and backrest -- Debaffled stock exhaust -- Yana Shiki 2" Risers -- Debeavered -- A&R 6k HID -- Stebel horn -- XTRE -- ISO Grips -- Scythe Mirrors

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    Quote Originally Posted by DrDing.Muscle View Post
    Holy hell man you are brave taking on a task like that. Props to you. Hope you get it all squared away.
    It is squared away for the most part. Thanks!

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    I may have to pull up Connecticut and figure out where that is ;-)
    2008 c109rt . wolo air horn, gman tre, gman bully ,kuryakyn cruiser pegs, tsukayu jumbo strong bags ,tsukayu 6x9 bat wing , LED head light, driver backrest, k&n air filters, m109 tach, and electric cruise control ahhh !

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    Quote Originally Posted by NJDEVIL View Post
    I like to see new ideas but ain't no way I would attempt to mess with that much wiring
    This guy has Balls lol allot of work there great idea hope it is all you want it to be
    ]

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    I just called Rostra and they suggested these settings for the DIP switches.


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    Default Installing this weekend with Peregrine's help

    Hopefully Peregrine can handle extreme heat and beer while still remembering how he did the install on his bike

    Thanks for coming up this weekend to help out 1R and myself with our Rostra cruise installs.

    Can't wait for a long trip to try this baby out

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    giving this a bump back up to the top . I have this and I wonder (now that I have it of course ) how I or anyone else could live without this !

    so if anyone is looking to do a mod that is truly for the riders comfort before spring gets here this is it !
    2008 c109rt . wolo air horn, gman tre, gman bully ,kuryakyn cruiser pegs, tsukayu jumbo strong bags ,tsukayu 6x9 bat wing , LED head light, driver backrest, k&n air filters, m109 tach, and electric cruise control ahhh !

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    I traded the M109r for a Victory Cross Country Tour. It comes with Cruise Control. I looked at the accessories catalog and for the models that do not come with CC they offer it and it is the same Rostra CC that I installed on the Vic. Funny.

    BTW I drove from FL to CT with the cruise set and I could not have done it without CC. Must have for long haulers.

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    Quote Originally Posted by peregrine View Post
    I traded the M109r for a Victory Cross Country Tour. It comes with Cruise Control. I looked at the accessories catalog and for the models that do not come with CC they offer it and it is the same Rostra CC that I installed on the Vic. Funny.

    BTW I drove from FL to CT with the cruise set and I could not have done it without CC. Must have for long haulers.

    Hopefully you can long haul your arse to MAM

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    Quote Originally Posted by BradSmith View Post
    Hopefully you can long haul your arse to MAM
    Geez, I already told you I would be there Thursday night. Save that cot for me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 1r View Post
    giving this a bump back up to the top . I have this and I wonder (now that I have it of course ) how I or anyone else could live without this !

    so if anyone is looking to do a mod that is truly for the riders comfort before spring gets here this is it !
    How was the install on this project? Is it still working well for you. This is definitely something I want to do. Thanks
    Eric "Plum Crazy" Hopkins
    2nd Thief Riders
    www.2ndThief.org
    Cell 214-448-5218

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    Looks like a heck of job man, kudos for breaking new ground! I have two questions for you though:

    1) Is there a manual override switch in case the system fails/locks at speed? (I guess you could just hit the clutch, coast to a stop and shut the motor off if it fails, but I would feel more comfortable withe some type of failsafe)
    2) Are you worried about the controls getting wet and possibly short-circuiting?

    Thanks,
    Paul

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    Quote Originally Posted by PHKsRIDE View Post
    Looks like a heck of job man, kudos for breaking new ground! I have two questions for you though:

    1) Is there a manual override switch in case the system fails/locks at speed? (I guess you could just hit the clutch, coast to a stop and shut the motor off if it fails, but I would feel more comfortable withe some type of failsafe)
    2) Are you worried about the controls getting wet and possibly short-circuiting?

    Thanks,
    Paul
    The over ride is your brake or clutch. Rostra is the CC for most cars and motorcycles OEM. I have since traded my 9 in for a Victory and the CC on that bike OEM is the same as the aftermarket one I installed on the 9. If it fails shut the bike off.

    I just installed it on my brother's Road King and he loves it. Took us about 5 hours start to finish.

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