Clutch experts out there....or just some experience.
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Thread: Clutch experts out there....or just some experience.

  1. #1
    Very Active Member hunt1moore's Avatar
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    Default Clutch experts out there....or just some experience.

    I'm trying to decide which direction to go but right now I can't do both. I have a 2007 109 LE with 20K miles.
    It has developed a knock in the trans/clutch area. I was looking at getting the '10+ clutch hub with the better spring design but then I came across Rainey's post regarding switching to the Gen 2 plates and springs.
    To do both will be about $600. Maybe someone can help me with decisive information regarding this.
    Thanks,
    Last edited by hunt1moore; 02-19-2018 at 04:39 PM.

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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    That seems awfull low miles for needing a new clutch. Are you sure its clutch related?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

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    Very Active Member hunt1moore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by M109Dreamer View Post
    That seems awfull low miles for needing a new clutch. Are you sure its clutch related?

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk
    It's knocking from the clutch area. When I crank it and let it warm up I don't hear it. When I put it in gear and rolling I can hear it. Everything I have read suggests it's normal for the '06-'09 to have this sound due to the sloppy hub? However, I have noticed it to be more audible on my last two rides. I even filled up with fresh gas hoping that would solve the issue. I have 3k on the last oil change with T6 (Rotella) but thinking of changing to a more specific oil, may go back to Amsoil.
    I have had the chudder and fixed it with the push pin mod and wave washer. I have a new clutch cable. My tube nut was tight when I did the chudder fix. Could the tube nut be loose?

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    Very Active Member Bering_C_Sparky's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunt1moore View Post
    It's knocking from the clutch area. When I crank it and let it warm up I don't hear it. When I put it in gear and rolling I can hear it. Everything I have read suggests it's normal for the '06-'09 to have this sound due to the sloppy hub? However, I have noticed it to be more audible on my last two rides. I even filled up with fresh gas hoping that would solve the issue. I have 3k on the last oil change with T6 (Rotella) but thinking of changing to a more specific oil, may go back to Amsoil.
    I have had the chudder and fixed it with the push pin mod and wave washer. I have a new clutch cable. My tube nut was tight when I did the chudder fix. Could the tube nut be loose?
    I would at least open her up and see whats going on before shelling out big bucks on a new clutch.

    In an hours time you can have the entire thing apart and see whats what.

    BCS
    Last edited by Bering_C_Sparky; 02-19-2018 at 05:13 PM.

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    Very Active Member M109Dreamer's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunt1moore View Post
    It's knocking from the clutch area. When I crank it and let it warm up I don't hear it. When I put it in gear and rolling I can hear it. Everything I have read suggests it's normal for the '06-'09 to have this sound due to the sloppy hub? However, I have noticed it to be more audible on my last two rides. I even filled up with fresh gas hoping that would solve the issue. I have 3k on the last oil change with T6 (Rotella) but thinking of changing to a more specific oil, may go back to Amsoil.
    I have had the chudder and fixed it with the push pin mod and wave washer. I have a new clutch cable. My tube nut was tight when I did the chudder fix. Could the tube nut be loose?
    Im not sure. I replaced my clutch at 45k miles. Mine was making a racket when cruising 55+ and would increase as I sped up. I finally replaced all the steel fibers and aprings and its been gone since.

    There is only ine way to know. Thats to open her up

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G920A using Tapatalk

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    Very Active Member cbxer55's Avatar
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    Mine is an 06 with over 31,000 miles and I hear nothing from the clutch. Lucky I guess. But, I do wear ear plugs when riding. Those rare times I don't, I don't hear any knock at all.

    Occasional shudder, but not bothersome enough to go to all the trouble. It only happens a few times a year, and didn't happen at all last year. When it shudders, I pull in the clutch, give it a brisk rev, and I'm off with no further trouble. Once again, lucky I guess.
    SILVER 2006 M109R.
    BLACK 2008 B-KING


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    Very Active Member hunt1moore's Avatar
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    I'm going in.
    I have a friend in Texas who is somewhat an expert on clutch hubs and rebuilds hubs for certain bikes (primarily the Suzuki DL1000)
    I'm sending him my hub while it's apart and he is going to see if it can be improved. Hopefully I wont find anything bad in the meantime. I'll be fixing my stripped oil drain plug at during the process if anyone has any recommendations for that please advise.

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    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by hunt1moore View Post
    I'm going in.
    I have a friend in Texas who is somewhat an expert on clutch hubs and rebuilds hubs for certain bikes (primarily the Suzuki DL1000)
    I'm sending him my hub while it's apart and he is going to see if it can be improved. Hopefully I wont find anything bad in the meantime. I'll be fixing my stripped oil drain plug at during the process if anyone has any recommendations for that please advise.
    The easiest and cheapest way to repair the striped threads from the oil drain would be to buy a larger self tapping repair bolt from one of the auto parts stores. The most important aspect would be to make sure the self tapping bolt goes in square to the pan. The next best option would be to drill out what's there and re-tap for a larger bolt or to insert a Helicoil repair thread to keep the OEM sized drain bolt. Personally I would try the larger self tapper first since it can easily be done on the bike without needing to remove the pan and it will be as good as new!

  11. #9
    Very Active Member hunt1moore's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Latinrascal View Post
    The easiest and cheapest way to repair the striped threads from the oil drain would be to buy a larger self tapping repair bolt from one of the auto parts stores. The most important aspect would be to make sure the self tapping bolt goes in square to the pan. The next best option would be to drill out what's there and re-tap for a larger bolt or to insert a Helicoil repair thread to keep the OEM sized drain bolt. Personally I would try the larger self tapper first since it can easily be done on the bike without needing to remove the pan and it will be as good as new!
    Thanks, I'll check that out.

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    Very Active Member hunt1moore's Avatar
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    Default Follow-up

    I went in and removed the clutch components and did not find anything out of spec. The tube nut was tight. The hub seemed to be normal with the inherent loose fitting damper springs. I put it back together and added new oil then rode it for 65 miles yesterday. Shifting was smooth and clutch engagement was perfect. Unfortunately I'm still getting the knocking sound that wasn't there when I put her up several months ago. It seems to get worse the hotter it gets plus it doesn't sound normal when cranking while its hot. Wants to spit on first crank then starts. Quick throttle blips will result in spit or sputter also.
    I really don't know where to go from here so I'm going to try checking the spark plugs and maybe connectons to the powerpro. Bike has been well maintained and has 20k miles. Hard to believe that it would have piston slap. Any ideas are welcome.

  13. #11
    Very Active Member Latinrascal's Avatar
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    I would start with the simplest part to check which in my opinion is the power pro. I would start by disconnecting that first before making any other changes and i would be sure to do only 1 change at a time so that you will be able to positively identify the problem.

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