Valve Adjustment
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Thread: Valve Adjustment

  1. #1
    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Default Valve Adjustment

    Since I've got to remove my gas tank to drain it and put in some fresh gas and an additive. I'm going to change my spark plugs at the same time. How hard would it be to just go ahead and adjust my valves while I've got everything off?
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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  3. #2
    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    The valves on the "C" are a PITA compared to my ATV's. On my ATV's I just had to use a feeler between the top of the valve spring and rocker. The adjustment was easier too. I just had to loosen the lock nut and turn the adj bolt, then tighten the lock nut back. The "C"'s valves clearance is checked at the cam tappet and you have to use thinner or thicker shims to adjust them. BFPITA!!!!
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    The valves on the "C" are a PITA compared to my ATV's. On my ATV's I just had to use a feeler between the top of the valve spring and rocker. The adjustment was easier too. I just had to loosen the lock nut and turn the adj bolt, then tighten the lock nut back. The "C"'s valves clearance is checked at the cam tappet and you have to use thinner or thicker shims to adjust them. BFPITA!!!!
    Nothing was out of spec, was it? I don't know why people think they have to constantly check valve clearances on our 9's? There are 10's of threads on here saying not to check unless something really bad. If anything our valves tighten up with time. But that would be maybe 50-75k miles. You run a greater risk of starting an oil leak by not seating the valve cover gasket right than you do having valves that are out of spec....

    Oh well, at least you know how to do it now. If i was on last night I would have told you this isn't a Harley or ATV motor and saved you some time.

    The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant. It's just that they know so much that isn't so. -- Ronald Reagan
    With Individual Freedom and Individual Salvation comes Individual Accountability. It brings a rewarding life to all. <--The Huff

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The HUFF View Post
    Nothing was out of spec, was it? I don't know why people think they have to constantly check valve clearances on our 9's? There are 10's of threads on here saying not to check unless something really bad. If anything our valves tighten up with time. But that would be maybe 50-75k miles. You run a greater risk of starting an oil leak by not seating the valve cover gasket right than you do having valves that are out of spec....

    Oh well, at least you know how to do it now. If i was on last night I would have told you this isn't a Harley or ATV motor and saved you some time.
    I haven't done them yet and I'm not going to. They're much more difficult than my atv valves. I just figured I would check them while I had everything apart to change my gas and spark plugs. Heck No, I'm not touching the valves. If and when they need adjusting, I'm taking it to the shop. Also, there was no valve cover gasket to worry about. The intake and exhaust valve covers had O-rings in a groove in the cover.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member The HUFF's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    I haven't done them yet and I'm not going to. They're much more difficult than my atv valves. I just figured I would check them while I had everything apart to change my gas and spark plugs. Heck No, I'm not touching the valves. If and when they need adjusting, I'm taking it to the shop. Also, there was no valve cover gasket to worry about. The intake and exhaust valve covers had O-rings in a groove in the cover.
    Thank Goodness. I thought you lost a few hours of your life. With everything off...tank, etc. It's about an hour job to remove the valve covers and check the clearances. If you have to take the cams off and do it right it's not too bad to change the shim, but it's something you would want to do when you know it has to be done. If your bike ever stops having a small little tick from time to time, then it's time. As long as you can somewhat hear the valves, you're good. Glad you didn't do the job yet. Form the way I read it seemed like you had already done it.

    The trouble with our liberal friends is not that they are ignorant. It's just that they know so much that isn't so. -- Ronald Reagan
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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by The HUFF View Post
    Thank Goodness. I thought you lost a few hours of your life. With everything off...tank, etc. It's about an hour job to remove the valve covers and check the clearances. If you have to take the cams off and do it right it's not too bad to change the shim, but it's something you would want to do when you know it has to be done. If your bike ever stops having a small little tick from time to time, then it's time. As long as you can somewhat hear the valves, you're good. Glad you didn't do the job yet. Form the way I read it seemed like you had already done it.
    Nope, I just figured it would be easier while I had everything apart, but I'm not going to touch the valves. Way to much trouble.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member Torque Junkie's Avatar
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    Default Tick, Tick, Tick, Tock!!

    Quote Originally Posted by The HUFF View Post
    Thank Goodness. I thought you lost a few hours of your life. With everything off...tank, etc. It's about an hour job to remove the valve covers and check the clearances. If you have to take the cams off and do it right it's not too bad to change the shim, but it's something you would want to do when you know it has to be done. If your bike ever stops having a small little tick from time to time, then it's time. As long as you can somewhat hear the valves, you're good. Glad you didn't do the job yet. Form the way I read it seemed like you had already done it.
    Mine always ticks under acceleration. So this is normal? It's about to drive me nuts. Never owned an engine that did this before other than an "82" Yamaha 750 Virago. Bought it new and had the 500 mile check-up done on it the day before we headed for Key West Florida. Rode from Iowa down into Missouri and heard the same ticking noise. Pulled into a large Yamaha dealer and the mechanic set the valves and never heard another tick from that bike. Must say it is tempting but am afraid such would not be the case with my C-109. Almost 12,000 miles and have tried everything from fuels, octane boosters, lead substitutes, TRE, fuel processor, injector cleaners, spark plugs, etc. Only thing I haven't tried is 20W/50 engine oil.... NOT holding my breath on that either.

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    Very Active Member Lemiarty's Avatar
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    I'm not much of a mechanic (may you've noticed from other postings?), I could probably fix your computer or write you a custom Windows application, but I leave the mechanical work to the mechanics...I had them check my valves before riding down to Laughlin River Run, I figured the extra couple hundred bucks was worth the avoidance of potential problems on a 1200 mile each way road trip!
    '08 C109RT Black and Silver, Show Chrome heated grips, National Cycle hand deflectors, Speedo Visor, Nautilus Air horn, GMan TRE, GBushing, GMan Riser Extender, Corbin heated touring saddle, Cobra Fatty highway bars, Kuryaken highway pegs, Sage Brush engine guard chaps, more mods to come with $$

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    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lemiarty View Post
    I'm not much of a mechanic (may you've noticed from other postings?), I could probably fix your computer or write you a custom Windows application, but I leave the mechanical work to the mechanics...I had them check my valves before riding down to Laughlin River Run, I figured the extra couple hundred bucks was worth the avoidance of potential problems on a 1200 mile each way road trip!
    I could do it, but it's a big PITA just to be checking them. Now if and when they actually need adjustment, then I'll adjust them. I have a service manual explaining how to step by step.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member SKIDMARK's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by silveradols View Post
    I could do it, but it's a big PITA just to be checking them. Now if and when they actually need adjustment, then I'll adjust them. I have a service manual explaining how to step by step.
    My experience is that because both shim and cam lobe are hardened, most times the wear factor is non existent. Actually you will find sometimes the clearance is a little tight due to expansion, and we are talking in thousandths of an inch, and this will cause the valve to be ever so slightly open further......thus more gas in and or more gas out.

    My triumph had 55,000 ks when we checked and 1 was borderline tight. Nothing to do. Suzuki makes most of the money from the original sale, then schedule the checks so the stealer can eat prime ribeye.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SKIDMARK View Post
    ...
    My triumph had 55,000 ks when we checked and 1 was borderline tight. Nothing to do. Suzuki makes most of the money from the original sale, then schedule the checks so the stealer can eat prime ribeye.
    Well said.

    No adjustment needed as part of the regular maintenance schedule.

  14. #12
    Very Active Member silveradols's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bozak View Post
    Well said.

    No adjustment needed as part of the regular maintenance schedule.
    yea, that's what the manual shows.
    2008 Suzuki Boulevard C109RT: HardKrome Velocity Pro Lites 2-1 Exhaust, Tank Bib, GMan TRE,Gman Bully controller, Speedo Visor, Everything Debadged, Front fender bra, Stock risers with GMan risers, Large ISO highway pegs with floorboard mounts and coming soon front, rear fender mud flap and lots of chrome accessories. Almost forgot Cobra 1 1/2 engine bars and Cobra driving light bar. Dual exhaust coming soon.

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    Very Active Member Acquitted's Avatar
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    Hi, just wanted to get some advice from someone who's actually done this. I have a C109 with 19K miles, and thought I would do this check while changing the plugs.

    The #1 cylinder (rear) cover head came off with some difficulty, due to zero clearance from the wiring harnesses. I got it off, though, and all four valves were within spec.

    Looking at #2 (front), however, I don't see any way to get that puppy off without draining the coolant and disconnecting two of the hoses. Wondering if anyone was able to get the #2 valve cover off without removing coolant hoses?

    Or should I just assume the front is fine as well, and start putting it back together?

    2008 C109RT - ISO grips, K&N Air Filter, NOS exhaust and filter housings, rebuilt driver seat.
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    Plastidip rear frame, sissy bar, side frame covers, and windshield hardware.

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    I am actually curious as well to hear from someone who has done this. I have a 2006. I have adjusted valves on a VStar 1100 and it made a huge difference in performance.
    The valve seats wear down causing the adjustment required.

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