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Valve Adjustment

13K views 14 replies 8 participants last post by  Acquitted 
#1 ·
Since I've got to remove my gas tank to drain it and put in some fresh gas and an additive. I'm going to change my spark plugs at the same time. How hard would it be to just go ahead and adjust my valves while I've got everything off?
 
#2 ·
The valves on the "C" are a PITA compared to my ATV's. On my ATV's I just had to use a feeler between the top of the valve spring and rocker. The adjustment was easier too. I just had to loosen the lock nut and turn the adj bolt, then tighten the lock nut back. The "C"'s valves clearance is checked at the cam tappet and you have to use thinner or thicker shims to adjust them. BFPITA!!!!
 
#3 ·
Nothing was out of spec, was it? I don't know why people think they have to constantly check valve clearances on our 9's? There are 10's of threads on here saying not to check unless something really bad. If anything our valves tighten up with time. But that would be maybe 50-75k miles. You run a greater risk of starting an oil leak by not seating the valve cover gasket right than you do having valves that are out of spec....

Oh well, at least you know how to do it now. If i was on last night I would have told you this isn't a Harley or ATV motor and saved you some time.:confused:
 
#8 ·
I'm not much of a mechanic (may you've noticed from other postings?), I could probably fix your computer or write you a custom Windows application, but I leave the mechanical work to the mechanics...I had them check my valves before riding down to Laughlin River Run, I figured the extra couple hundred bucks was worth the avoidance of potential problems on a 1200 mile each way road trip!
 
#9 ·
I could do it, but it's a big PITA just to be checking them. Now if and when they actually need adjustment, then I'll adjust them. I have a service manual explaining how to step by step.
 
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#13 ·
Hi, just wanted to get some advice from someone who's actually done this. I have a C109 with 19K miles, and thought I would do this check while changing the plugs.

The #1 cylinder (rear) cover head came off with some difficulty, due to zero clearance from the wiring harnesses. I got it off, though, and all four valves were within spec.

Looking at #2 (front), however, I don't see any way to get that puppy off without draining the coolant and disconnecting two of the hoses. Wondering if anyone was able to get the #2 valve cover off without removing coolant hoses?

Or should I just assume the front is fine as well, and start putting it back together?
 
#15 ·
its a BIG PITA. You have to drain the coolant and remove hoses to get to the front, and remove and reinstall wiring harnesses up in the rear.. very tight clearances. Getting the air box on and off is a challenge as well. It took me over 5 hours (no shims, all in spec), but if I had to do it again, probably 3 hours from start to finish.

Sorry, anyone who says they can do it in an hour has either never actually done it before, or has magic powers. This is a whole afternoon job, not an easy add-on.
 
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