If your in there I think you should readjust the pin. Some have used 3/4 of a turn out some stick with what the book says as 1 turn out.
What happens is once you adjust the clutch cable at the lever, and then you run out of adjustment, you will have to adjust the cable at the lower end and then readjust at the lever. But once you are done with adjustments at both ends you will have to go into the clutch "again" because you didnt adjust it when you added new parts. Hope this kinda explains it a little.
But like I said, its super easy to adjust, just go ahead and do it.
Also when you adjust the pin, make sure on the other side of the 9. The arm where the clutch cable attaches to is up all the way before adjusting the pin. On mine I had to manually pull it all the way to the top because the spring that is on the arm will only raise it so far.
OK I will give it a shot. I had read absolutely not to touch it because it was a giant pain in the rear to get set right again. I printed out directions that I think future put up so I'll follow that. Gonna have a friend help me do all this at his house so hopefully I get it set the first time. Thanks guys!
This thread made me nervous about messing with it. I've read it is very touchy so I figured I'd be better off not touching it. But if its not as difficult as they made it sound I'll see if we can get it done.
Here is the short version. If you are going to open the clutch up to get rid of the shudder by grinding the pin "only" then you dont have to adjust the pin.
Now with that said, when you get in there depending on how you have ridden it you might find that some of the steels and or fibers need to be replaced.
I didnt see which year/model you have but if you replace ANY of the parts in there you will NEED to adjust the pin.
When I did mine I changed out the affected parts. The #6 drive plate, wave washer & seat.
For me its a little harder to find "N" but not to difficult.
So the adjustment of the pin really depends on if you are replacing anything or just grinding the pin down and throwing it back in there.
OK cool. I've only had it since late last summer so I don't know how the previous person drove it. I've been fairly easy on it from take offs. Especially once the shudder started. I'm planning to replace those 3 parts so probably best to adjust the pin. Hopefully we can get it right the first time!
Its an 08 with I think about 10k miles.
Thanks so much for the help!
You want to stick with OEM for clutch parts. Some have had some success with aftermarket kits and some havent.
O'Neida Suzuki was the cheapest when I bought my clutch parts. If you are only buying a couple parts it might be quicker and cheaper to get them from your dealer.
If you replace the steels, fibers, #6, #13, #12 it will run around $300, FYI.
Gotcha. I'm in Des Moines Iowa. Probably best to just visit the Suzuki dealer. Thanks for the info. Since I'm only at 10k miles I highly doubt I'll need a new clutch so that's good.
From what I've found the fibers go for about $40/ea (need 6), steels are $15-16/ea need 5. the #10 plate is $30ish. #6 plate is $15ish
I just finished doing this mod and I would say it was pretty tough for a non-mechanic type like myself. But thanks to the outstanding guidance from guys like FutureR and Huff in this thread, I was able to replace the three clutch parts, grind down the adjustment push pin (used my 6in Ryobi bench grinder) and properly adjust the push screw (although it took me 5 tries). I was a bit overzealous in grinding the push pin...went to about 5mm wide rather than 3. If this causes a future oil issue, I'll post that.
The shudder is gone! So nice to no longer have to pre-load the clutch when starting from a stop. My #6 drive plate was severely etched and burnt. The original wave washer looked ok though. The entire clutch basket was dry.
27000miles getting some shutter at times.... time for this mod!!
My 2008 C109RT developed the clutch shudder this summer with 13,200 miles on it and I nursed it along for several months.
After reading the posts on this multiple times I ordered the parts and got it fixed.
Just thought I would add my thoughts and findings to this list.
I ordered a new pin so that I could take my time grinding it and have a spare "in case" I screwed it up. I didn't realize at the time that meant that the adjustment pin would require adjustment! But between the shop manual and the forum posts it wasn't a big deal.
After sliding a spare tire (no wheel) under the exhaust I took the whole thing off by removing the 4 bolts into the head, two small bolts holding the exhaust valve pulley in place and the two big bolts holding the bracket that both exhaust pipes are connected to. I read this in another post and seemed to make the job go faster. Had to loosen the bolts for the foot rest to get the lower exhaust pipe free. Lowered the exhaust to the tire and dragged the tire out of the way.
Removing the springs and plates were as expected and I made sure that I kept them in the right order and orientation.
After replacing the three plates/washers everything went back together in reverse order and I installed the new ground adjustment pin. Torqued the spring bolts to 7 ft lbs and spent several hours scraping gasket off the motor surface and clutch cover. I was as careful as I could be pulling the clutch cover off, but the gasket ripped so I needed to clean off the old and install a new one. Since it was an aluminum surface I got some "plastic razor blades" that worked but were not particularly effective. I used Permatex Ultra Black in stead of the Suzuki 1207B (or something like that) in the two spots on the gasket the manual suggested.
Because the shop manual didn't provide torque values for the clutch cover I searched around the forum in vain and just snugged them up pretty well with a 1/4" socket wrench which was suggested on one of the treads I read.
The biggest issue I had was adjusting the adjustment pin because I installed a new one and used the old threaded rod and lock nut. As suggested in the manual I pulled up the lever on the left side of the engine and held it in place with a bungee cord. The manual suggested backing the threaded rod out 1 turn after sensing resistance. Some of the posts I read suggested 3/4 of a turn out. Several people posted that this had to be done several times before they got it right which seemed odd as you are just determining when the clutch is pushed out or disengaged. Never having done this before I wasn't sure what felt resistance meant and now I believe I understand why some people had problems. I felt resistance when the adjustment pin touched the plates, backed the rod out 1 turn and when I put the clutch cable back on, it wouldn't disengage the clutch (couldn't see the pressure plate move). I believe that I was feeling resistance from one or two or three plates but they weren't "all" pushed together. So I tightened the threaded rod until I saw the pressure plate move and the clutch start to disengage. I loosened it up and did that several times until all the plates were right up against each other. THEN I ran the threaded rod into the pin until I felt pretty good resistance and then backed the pin out 1 turn. After attaching the clutch cable again things seemed to work fine.
The only small issue that I have as a result of what I did is that the clutch engages much sooner than it used to. If I were to take all this apart again I would only turn the threaded rod back out 3/4 of a turn or more. Just not one full turn. I think that would be perfect.
I've ridden the bike several times now and the clutch works well.
Thanks for everyone that posts their information and experiences on this forum. Your help is appreciated and very valuable.
2008 Blue & White C109RT - Cobra Fatty Freeway Bars - Kuryakyn Longhorn Highway Pegs - Cobra Light Bar
So the adjustment pin mod, that is something different than push pin mod.
Gotcha appreciate it
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Hi Matt, i would love to see the images in this post. It says they are blocked. Thanks!